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walter_evening@post.com: Jan 09 09:54AM -0800 On Thursday, January 8, 2015 at 7:37:33 PM UTC-5, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote: > no work experience, and no money."   > It didn't sway him. He's a DOT weigh-station inspector now, making > a barely-subsistance hourly wage ...   That's a government job. That's OK! He could let his chain of command know that he can go to night school and get a masters. Then he make weekly calls to the local bond broker bigwigs and state lawmakers on what state or federal government bond projects near his job site he could chip into (because you need a bond broker in order to buy any government bonds). If he tries to make his bond purchase choices the same as the main government big shots and business leaders in the town he lives in, he can go very far in government.   (he might even get a country club spot if he has good golf skills and good enough connections)

mogulah@hotmail.com: Jan 10 08:29AM -0800 On Friday, January 9, 2015 at 5:20:00 PM UTC-5, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:   > And worst -- there is no promotion path for that > grade. He can get minimum COLA, but no advancement.   > Not all government jobs are cushy lifetime appointments!     Everyone starts out in the trashy positions, but the ones who at least try to get on the same page as top government appointees eventually get "cushy" or senior executive level state or federal appointments.   Actually, you do have to be in the right spot at the right time once you get your foot in the door of any place you work. Where ever the executives are, you (the low man on the totem-pole) have to figure out a way to be there.   The few "low men on the totem pole" who manage to do that throughout their career get those spots. Maybe a friendship with a government and other bond broker (familiar with most state government projects in his area) might be a key to an eventuality like that.   (who knows where it could lead)

ARNOLD_RUD@yahoo.fr: Jan 10 03:01AM -0800 Le vendredi 9 janvier 2015 22:05:14 UTC+8, N_Cook a écrit : > > Thank you in advance and best regards. Rudy.   > Upload a close-up picture somewhere? > Just probability wise, unlikely to be a transformer problem   How and where can I upload a picture?

mogulah@hotmail.com: Jan 10 08:13AM -0800 Saturday, January 10, 2015 at 6:01:47 AM UTC-5, ARNOL...@yahoo.fr wrote:         > > Upload a close-up picture somewhere? > > Just probability wise, unlikely to be a transformer problem   > How and where can I upload a picture?   English: When you take a picture, show us (right here). I know my French is the worst.   Anglais: Quand vous prenez une photo, Indique-nous (ici et maintenant). Mon français est épouvantable

jurb6006@gmail.com: Jan 09 04:18PM -0800 >"I imagine that the mainstream news media can do what's necessary. "   They always do. That's how we got here. When people did not know what Wilson did, or even Roger B. Taney. Most of the high offices in this country have been held by those in cahootz with the bankers. Give me the power to issue the nations' currency and I care not who writes the laws. (I did NOT mispunctuate "nations'")   It is not a mispunctuation because I am not quoting Uncle Amschel. you knopw the guy whose son Evelyn owns half the banks in the world, or could with pocket change. That Uncle.   This scam has been going on for senturies. though a bit different and less refined, this is the kind of chicanery going on oin Germany that broke the place and allowed Hitler to rise to power. It was NOT reparations, it was the banks. And where di all that loot go they stole ? Financed the Russian revolution. That is why Hitler knew they were coming. And it was true.   Y'all know the mess that fucking ensued after. These baners ar the same ones who ran the Soviet empire into the ground by literally stealing everything. The USSR may have been productive at the beginning but Russians shrewder in business than Germans and soon they became unproductive. they said "they pretend to pay us so we pretend to work". A country CANNOT run like that and THAT was more of a factor in putting them down than anything the US did.   the Russians are smat, bad motherfuckers and now that the people are happy and shit and there is food and jobs and money, and more fucking freedom than in the US, I think they no longe pretend to work.   And even when they pretended, the MIGs they build didn't pretend. We had more planes but they had better planes. Communicatiuon, radiio and shit like this, they are as good as we are., Now in actual digital, down to design the chip, our Silicon Valley got them on that.   But Putin, though a prick who beat his way to the top and all thart, needs nothing. And he will not allow the baners to run the country, and the people like that because unlike in the qwest, they KNOW WHO THEY ARE. And the people support him and is it wrong to make an enemy ourt of Russia now. this is all about fossil fuel folks. Russia has now started buolding a pipeline through Hungary which is goiung to fuck the west right up the ass.   So the collapse will happen. Then the people are likely to support an ultra nationalist and possibly racist regime here and uit will use its military ight to make a little change of plans.   We go back into South America and take it over. Fuck it, it is ours. fuck the middle east, they might run out anyway while South America has it and hasn't been anywhere near as tapped. We get us anothe rSmedley P. Butler and give him the gun. Guns. And it is much closer to home, much easier to keep an eye on.   Liek Hitler and Europe. And Germany would only have had to opress for a short time because the peole would start to support them. you think this hasn't happened before ? It is like a large scale Stockholm Syndrome.   Which is what we were ASLL born into . Not one of us nows freedom nor truly wants it. There is a balance between just living in the woods off of nuts and berries and living in a high rise apartment where you can't even smoke a joint. there is a balance in between these extremes and it is off balance. And Darwin's nature has been inhibited and it is WRONG to do that.   OK, enought for now. Ge well, keep your powder dry, The shit IS gojng to hit the fan and while you wiull not be able to help determine who is right, you might be able to help determine who is left.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Jan 09 04:20PM -0800 Sorry, Evelyn is NOT the son of Amschel. I knew that but typoed too fast...   I meant decendent.

"Gareth Magennis" <gareth.magennis@ntlworld.com>: Jan 10 01:01AM wrote in message news:18ed3600-6012-4ee1-9374-5d6cbe64913b@googlegroups.com...   Sorry, Evelyn is NOT the son of Amschel. I knew that but typoed too fast...   I meant decendent.       Fuck me, can you not just leave your victim mentality aside for a bit and answer the question?   Oh I forgot, that's what you do.   Sorry.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Jan 10 02:21AM -0800 >"victim mentality aside for a bit and >answer the question? "   The fuck are you taling about ? There is no question. If I missed it, please poiunt it out to me oh sir of greater whatever the fuck.   I am not into this other posts shoit relate to this. what question is posed IN THIS OP ? It is just a bitch about soem shit.   The only question in the OP is part of a quote. To whom am I to answer ?   I hope I never need anyting from the likes of you.

"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com>: Jan 10 12:48AM > few minutes, and cleaned and lubricated the bearings? When Pioneer cd > player motors went bad, spinning the disc by hand would start them > playing. If this works, you'll know the motor is bad. Chuck   When Pioneers had a bad spindle motor, the disc still used to at least try to turn, and it squealed like a stuck pig. Although other players tend not to squeal like this, bad spindle motors are still common. On most players, the disc will either rotate very slowly, or will rotate at a 'reasonable-looking' speed, but never actually reach a 'working' speed. It is fairly rare for the motor not to start at all. The spindle motors will in fact run at way less than 3 volts, as will the sled motors. The standard test recommended by Pioneer was to connect the motor across an analogue multi-meter set to its low ohms range. On this range, the impedance of the meter was low enough that the internal 1.5 v battery could supply enough current to run the motor. As well as running the motor, it also gave you an indication of its 'resistance', which should be above 10 ohms. You could see this figure climb from a few ohms when the motor was stationary, to over 10 ohms as the speed picked up, and back EMF started to contribute a term to the meter reading.   You are quite right about squibbing switch cleaner in through the small holes in the back-plate, and then 'blasting' the motor with excess voltage. I do this with four or five short blasts of 12 volts first in one direction, then the other. As you say, this is just a check though, and if the motor runs and passes the 'meter' test afterward, it should still be replaced, as it won't last long ...   Interesting that you used to employ this exact technique when you were in the trade - presumably in the U.S. ? I first published it in a UK trade magazine many years ago. Just goes to show that great minds think alike, for you to have come up with it as well ! :-)   Arfa

Tickerman <dlhart9491@gmail.com>: Jan 09 04:07PM -0800 On Wednesday, February 8, 2012 at 9:15:25 AM UTC-5, Andrew May wrote: > should like to have a go at fixing it but having tried the obvious would > appreciate some pointer towards what the problem might be.   > Andrew   I have a Nikon Coolscan II (LS-20) film scanner that recently exhibited the same kind of behavior that your Coolscan III does--especially the inability to find it's home position, screeching, and then jamming up against the front stop. I read this group thread with great interest and it encouraged me to take the scanner apart again.   Several years ago, the scanner exhibited a similar problem with loud motor noises, error codes and jamming up against the front carriage stop. I read on someone's internet posting (I don't recall who it was) that this was probably due to the lubrication on the rails turning to "glue" and binding up carriage movement. Sure enough, this was my situation and I cleaned the grease (very stiff) off and applied new dry teflon lubricant. I could see that there was grease on the jackscrew the stepper motor turns to drive the carriage back and forth. But since I had not (and didn't want to) completely disassembled the carriage mechanism, I could not get in to wipe the old grease off. I elected instead to put some light oil on the drive screw where the captured nut drives the carriage back and forth. I also carefully cleaned the optics (especially the mirrors) as well as I could without completely disassembling the carriage. The scanner then operated better than it had for years.   When the problem cropped up again recently, I was initially puzzled. There was no way the teflon lubricant could have become stiff, so after reading this thread, I elected to disassemble the carriage completely. I found that the grease on the jack screw had hardened again and was binding up the carriage motion. This time I cleaned it off well and applied Lubriplate All Purpose grease that I have had good success with in other mechanisms. I cleaned the optics again and after putting it back together it works wonderfully! There is a lot of life in these scanners, it is just inhibited by the greases Nikon used years ago in assembly.

dansabrservices@yahoo.com: Jan 09 09:31AM -0800 The best way to address this is to try and salvage a piece of the cloth from a corner on the inside and use fabric glue to attach it from the rear. This will provide the support for the rip and hopefully not be seen from the front.   I have done this with a few newer amps, but not one that old. The technique should worh though.   Dan

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jan 09 05:36PM Woden datecodes seem to be the 2 letter codes AU on 2 and BU on the mains Tx and otherwise AK on the pot bodies

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jan 09 05:42PM > The best way to address this is to try and salvage a piece of the cloth from a corner on the inside and use fabric glue to attach it from the rear. This will provide the support for the rip and hopefully not be seen from the front.   > I have done this with a few newer amps, but not one that old. The technique should worh though.   > Dan   Unfortunately only a ribbon of surplus cloth inside and that is well stuck down. Even the rear panels were well stuck to the cab with the glue for the rexine covering or glue from somewhere. I have some open weave brown cloth that I'll use.

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