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N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jan 09 03:49PM Been used to some extent all the time from bought new by the owner 1961. Just a bad joint/socket requires the cab being banged occassionally. Survived a fuse failure at a about 1965, fag packet liner "repair" , replaced properly next day. Otherwise no one having been inside other than to retrieve the nuts that fell off the handle retainers , in the 60s, and left handleless ever since. Any advise on ameliorating a rip in the grill cloth? Unless anyone can convince me otherwise I will leave the cloth and trim in place and remove the speakers and work from the rear. Survived all that gigging and roadying , but the cloth ripped by recent house-removal men. No definite dates seen inside, I've not looked up the secondary etch marks on the original Tungsram and Brimar valves yet, but Main can cap , Hunts with a line U UH KBQ 562 and the choke of the 3 Woden Txs , marked 66311 & J/84 (sic) year 61 from first and last of 66311?

guitarboy2698@gmail.com: Jan 08 01:43PM -0800 On Tuesday, December 1, 1998 at 3:00:00 AM UTC-5, Carl Schiller wrote:   > Anyone ever see this problem before?   > Thanks, > Carl   I'm having this same problem except it shuts off and turns back on a few seconds later. Also if I leave it on for an extended period of time it will over heat and change to FM radio playing a really loud static sound.

John-Del <ohger1s@aol.com>: Jan 08 02:07PM -0800 > > Thanks, > > Carl   > I'm having this same problem except it shuts off and turns back on a few seconds later. Also if I leave it on for an extended period of time it will over heat and change to FM radio playing a really loud static sound.   It sounds like a totally different problem than the OP posted about 18 years ago....     Could be flaky micro, noisy/erratic lv supplies, contaminated control panel etc.

chuck <chuck@deja.net>: Jan 09 08:20AM -0600 On Thu, 8 Jan 2015 14:07:05 -0800 (PST), John-Del <ohger1s@aol.com> wrote:     >> I'm having this same problem except it shuts off and turns back on a few seconds later. Also if I leave it on for an extended period of time it will over heat and change to FM radio playing a really loud static sound.   >It sounds like a totally different problem than the OP posted about 18 years ago....   >Could be flaky micro, noisy/erratic lv supplies, contaminated control panel etc. I believe this is the one where a ground wire needs to be run from the display circuit board to the chassis. Sometimes a ground wire also has to be run from the tuner board to the chassis. These problems do cause micro lock up , tuner noise, eratic operation and other symptoms. Chuck

dansabrservices@yahoo.com: Jan 09 07:25AM -0800 I think everyone is overthinking this one. First check to be sure that the protection relay is good. If the unit works longer with higher volumes, the relay is usually the cause of the cutouts.   RE: overheating.   Check for frayed and potential crossed wires at the speaker connections. A single strand may not be enough to cause the short detector to kick in, but enough to bring down the impedence to make the amp work too much.   Given the age of this unit, I would start by checking the entire unit for poor/cold solder joints. Continued use of this with heatup/cooldown cycles will crystalize these connection over time. Look carefully at the end joints at the display. This is a common area for poor connections.   Try these and post any updates.   Dan

Mike <news@mjcoon.plus.com>: Jan 08 04:55PM -0600 I've been given a radio/cassette/cd player with a faulty CD portion to play with.   The CD spindle does not spin, but the motor operates if given 4+ volts from a battery (and draws a variable current depending on mechanical load).   The laser actuators appear to work, because they attempt to hunt for a CD to read. What I am not clear about is whether the focus process can work with a stationary CD.   I consulted http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_cdfaq*.html which suggests that if the spindle does not start this may because of failure to focus, implying the answer to my question is "yes"; but how?   Reading the specification for the "RF Amp + SSP" chip (KA9220C) does not help me much either. However it does say "The KA9220C is designed for 3- spot type optical pick-up assembly. ... The photo detector A,B, C and D detect audio modulation signal on the disc and generate focus error signal." That suggests to me that the disc needs to be rotating for focus to happen. But if the above answer were "no" we would have a Catch-22 situation!   Can anyone explain, please?   Mike.

"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com>: Jan 09 02:37AM "Mike" <news@mjcoon.plus.com> wrote in message news:NOKdndyERuB4lzLJnZ2dnUVZ8uOdnZ2d@brightview.co.uk... > situation!   > Can anyone explain, please?   > Mike.   It is perfectly normal for the spindle servo not to be turned on until the laser has obtained focus. When the spot is out of focus at the disc surface, it will be eliptical, so the reflected beam will not illuminate all four central pickup diodes equally (ABCD). The focus servo will move the lens until this situation is corrected, indicating that the spot is now properly round and in focus. The spindle motor is started up at this time. The tracking servo is turned on once the disc is rotating (roughly the right speed but not yet servo-locked), and makes use of the two other beams which run equally either side of the 'groove'. If the central beam is off to either side, the two side beams will be off position also, illuminating the E-F pickup diodes unevenly. The tracking servo bends the lens to one side or the other to correct this and keep the central beam running right over the groove. The spindle servo is turned on as soon as valid data is being recovered. The data recovery rate is used to lock the spindle servo to control the rotational speed of the disc. This is constantly altering as the disc plays. As the laser moves to the outer edge of the disc, the angular velocity changes, so the disc is progressively slowed by the servo to maintain a constant data rate.   If you want to get yourself a real in-depth understanding of the subject, have a read of   https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=QHKIiNYlwSoC&pg=PA55&lpg=PA55&dq=CD+servo+systems&source=bl&ots=xNS6NGz__s&sig=9xFZRoRvKbDkX6a1eY705DVLqYs&hl=en&sa=X&ei=cTWvVIbgKIj_UNKZgPgB&ved=0CDIQ6AEwAw#v=onepage&q=CD%20servo%20systems&f=false   Not sure how the post will cope with a link that long, but I'm sure that you will work it out :-)   How the beams within the optical block are used to obtain the various servo locking signals is explained around about page 46 or so.   If focus is not obtained during the initial attempts - which are usually three and bust - some players will 'kick' the disc to rotate it a little so that a different disc area is exposed to the 'hunting' beam. This is in case the disc is dirty or damaged at the initial try-out point. Again, this is usually a 'three and bust' sequence. Some players do spin the disc immediately the laser has checked that it is home, and focus is attempted on the rotating disc. This is not common, however, as it introduces another potential error term for the focus servo to cope with whilst trying to lock in the first place, if the disc is warped or the turntable is not flat. Far better that focus is obtained on a stationary disc.   If you are able, look under the disc and watch the lens. It should move up and down just once and stop at some roughly midway position, indicating that focus has been obtained. The FOK signal within the player will be asserted at this time. If the lens moves up and down several - probably three - times and then stops, then the laser did not obtain focus. By far the most common - although not the only - reason for this is a defective laser. This can be because it is simply worn out, or because of dust / film on the surface of the lens, or dust / film on the critical-angle mirror or pickup diode array inside the optical chamber. If the lens surface is clean, you can try holding the lens gently to one side with a scalpel tip, and using an air duster to blast a shot of air down the gap. Sometimes works ...   Most of the common lasers - Sony KSS series, Sanyo SPF101 series etc, are incredibly cheap now, so usually worth a punt if you suspect a bad laser. Most modern players are fully self-adjusting for servo gain and balance etc, so a replacement laser job is pretty much just a case of 'drop it in'. If the player does have adjustments, these are extremely easy to carry out with a scope on the RF test point, or in the absence of a scope, are nearly as easy to adjust with the benefit of a scratched disc and the mk 1 ear-'ole ... :-)   If you have never replaced a laser, and end up giving it a go, you should note that there is a blob of solder across a pair of shorting points on the back of the little pcb on the laser. This protects the laser diode from static damage when it is not connected to anything, and needs to be removed when the laser is installed.   Arfa

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jan 08 09:45PM -0800 Mike wrote:     > The laser actuators appear to work, because they attempt to hunt for a CD > to read. What I am not clear about is whether the focus process can work > with a stationary CD.     ** All the CD mechanisms I can recall seek focus before spinning the disk.   The most common failure seen in budget CD mechanisms is a weak or dead laser diode - which would produce the scenario you describe.       ... Phil

jurb6006@gmail.com: Jan 08 11:12PM -0800 On Friday, January 9, 2015 at 12:45:52 AM UTC-5, Phil Allison wrote:   > ** All the CD mechanisms I can recall seek focus before spinning the disk.   > The most common failure seen in budget CD mechanisms is a weak or dead laser diode - which would produce the scenario you describe.   > ... Phil   Or dirty.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Jan 08 11:27PM -0800 Also, there is the possibility of a bad motor driver. This is not always an IC. It oculd be just a ocuple of transistors. If the spindle motor starts pulling too much current it can blow the driver. If in doubt, follow it back to whatever drives the motor to see if it is getitng dsrive but not driving. In that case the spindle motor might be bad.   The circuit is usually simple as hell. It is off when the buffer is almost full and on when the buffer is almost empty. And a transistor maybe for braking, if it even has that it usually just shorts out the motor so to load it and stop the disc. They don't use a negative voltage usually they just calculate the mass of the disk and with the motor loaded by the short it must stop ithin a certain time.   You say it is a combo unit ? Expect the absolute cheapest of circuitry. In fact if it has a pop up door instead of a drawer it probably has no braking and just has one transistor to drive the motor, on or off. Might even be a DTC something because the current is low.   Or supposed to be.   If you can get a print and find the FOK line and check it that is fine, but if whatever drives that motor is not told to turn on you can pretty much assume you don't have it.   I would clean the laser. what's more if you clean the laser and it starts working, tap on it with a screwdriver handle or something and see if it skips easily. then you got a weak laser. It will work for a time, BUT it is regulated so it will not last.   If you decide to tweak up the laser power ith that little pot, remember it is not going to last long and probably will still skip easily until it fails.   It is nice practice probaably fixing those thihgs but you are not goiung to make a fortune at it. Also, in some cases you can get the whole CD drive for about the cost of the laser. (I had a bad new one once and had to frankenstein the damn thing between parts from the new and old because the job had to go out, piece of shit)

Mike <news@mjcoon.plus.com>: Jan 09 04:05AM -0600 On Thu, 08 Jan 2015 23:27:40 -0800, jurb6006 wrote:   > drive for about the cost of the laser. (I had a bad new one once and had > to frankenstein the damn thing between parts from the new and old > because the job had to go out, piece of shit)   Thanks very much to all three of you for your comprehensive answers.   The unit is an Alba CX500L which is a budget brand and I haven't been able to find any schematics or service manual. So I have left the four tweaking pots on the PCB strictly alone! They are marked only with schematic IDs. However the PCB does have numerous test points marked so I may play a bit more... Also the actuator and spindle motor drivers are combined in IC KA9259D and I have a specification sheet for that.   This is merely a learning hobby exercise. As soon as it gets too boring the unit will get junked; I am unlikely to spend any money on it!   Mike.

chuck <chuck@deja.net>: Jan 09 08:41AM -0600 >situation!   >Can anyone explain, please?   >Mike.   I've been out of the consumer electronics service business for 15 years so this comment may be off base. Back then cheap cd spindle motors would begin turning at 3 volts not 4. Have you blasted the brushes with contact cleaner, spun the motor at a higher voltage for a few minutes, and cleaned and lubricated the bearings? When Pioneer cd player motors went bad, spinning the disc by hand would start them playing. If this works, you'll know the motor is bad. Chuck

mzenier@eskimo.com (Mark Zenier): Jan 07 06:48PM In article <m8h22e$emq$1@dont-email.me>,   >Another thing, the radio receives part of the FM band on the TV VHF-Low >band. Doesn't seem right, but that band is useless anyhow. The high-band >setting is still needed since WX shares its beginning.   In Japan, the FM audio band goes down to something like 76 MHz.   Mark Zenier mzenier@eskimo.com Googleproofaddress(account:mzenier provider:eskimo domain:com)

"Mr. Man-wai Chang" <toylet.toylet@gmail.com>: Jan 09 10:15PM +0800 On 7/1/15 12:22 AM, Madness wrote: > to be jiggled in order to receive the desired band. Otherwise, all I get > is static. Also, I took the radio part to spray some contact cleaner > into the switch, but it didn't help.   Best solution is to go for radios with digital tuning? :)   -- @~@ Remain silent. Nothing from soldiers and magicians is real! / v \ Simplicity is Beauty! May the Force and farces be with you! /( _ )\ (Fedora release 21) Linux 3.17.7-300.fc21.i686+PAE ^ ^ 22:09:01 up 3:37 0 users load average: 0.01 0.04 0.05 不借貸! 不詐騙! 不援交! 不打交! 不打劫! 不自殺! 請考慮綜援 (CSSA): http://www.swd.gov.hk/tc/index/site_pubsvc/page_socsecu/sub_addressesa

ARNOLD_RUD@yahoo.fr: Jan 09 05:09AM -0800 Good evening to all. My DVD recorder Pioneer DVR-340H is out of order there is no more power on the display PCB. somebody told me the ceramic transformer is dead. Can someone help me to identify that component? it is a black ceramic cylinder 1 cm in diameter, 0.5 cm high with 1171 and S692 printed on it, it has 9 pins. i don't know the brand nor the supplier. all advice is welcome. Thank you in advance and best regards. Rudy.

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jan 09 02:05PM > Can someone help me to identify that component? it is a black ceramic cylinder 1 cm in diameter, 0.5 cm high with 1171 and S692 printed on it, it has 9 pins. > i don't know the brand nor the supplier. all advice is welcome. > Thank you in advance and best regards. Rudy.   Upload a close-up picture somewhere? Just probability wise, unlikely to be a transformer problem

Jerry Peters <jerry@example.invalid>: Jan 08 09:08PM >> his own. Pressuring him into college in the first place >> was probably a huge mistake.   > But then years later, he'd be mad at him for not pushing the idea of college. Because on average, people who've continued education after high school earn more.   That really depends on what kind of degree you get, doesn't it? I'd expect that a degree in "something or other studies" to be mostly worthless.

mogulah@hotmail.com: Jan 09 05:34AM -0800 On Thursday, January 8, 2015 at 7:37:33 PM UTC-5, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:   > "Dad, I just don't like all the rules and restrictions. I want to be > free to do what I want to do, not what some stupid professor tells me I > have to do."   Yeah, a lot of people hear stuff like that on hate radio. The AM dial on radio spends all day telling you that college campuses are brainwashing people to become liberals, shed the values they grew up with, etc... So the people are scared that they'll lose their freedoms, so they take up guns, hate the government, etc...   > barely-subsistance hourly wage, when he could have been (a damned good) > surgeon -- he has the artistic and manual skills to have done it well.   > You can't lead their lives for them.   In other words, some people can't learn from lecture. They only learn from experience.

Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Jan 08 07:13PM >> 35 years old? That thing must have been belt driven.   > Philips SL probably - 35 year old this year:   > http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Compact_fluorescent_lamp#mediaviewer/File:Old_compact_fluorescent_lamp.JPG   the panasonic ones looked similar, but with glass. As you can see from the size, there's very few places the thing would even fit.

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Jan 08 01:11PM -0800 On Friday, January 2, 2015 at 11:29:24 AM UTC-8, mike wrote:   > In the attic, I have about a hundred used incandescents, right > next to the hundred CFL's, right next to all the spare LED's > I bought but never used.   Use up the CFL's. Those have a small amount of radioactive fill gas as their 'starter' and it has a half-life. It lasts maybe one decade.

"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com>: Jan 09 02:42AM "Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message news:g8lrw.519154$v42.473184@fx19.am4... > had confused him with me. He used to be a regular on here some years back, > but just lurks these days.   > Arfa   He's just told me to tell you that he was the person that replied directly to you by email, regarding your observations on the requirements of a signal generator for mending group amps. He also informs me that he lurks because the usenet client that he is currently using, refuses to let him post to S.E.R. Curious ... :-\   Arfa

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