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jurb6006@gmail.com: Jan 21 12:07PM -0800 The state of the TV repair business what it is, I have moved into music equipment. These guys are like the hifi audio guys. And old tube amp from 1957 is gold. Even some solid state amps are at least silver. Powered mixers, they bust a nut every time I fix one of those.   Now comes keyboards. Regular keyboards, fine. But then we have MIDI controllers. These used to plug into the joystick jack on PC soundcards. Now they are USB. That is not the question though, the question is - is there standard software for a PC that would let me test all or most of these controllers ?   If there is I should find an older version for free and stick it on my bench PC. I don't know about everyone else but I think if I fix a keyboard I should test all the keys. Right ?   Also, let's say an older one comes in with the old joystick plug. My bench PC is a laptop and does not have the jack for that. Maybe I should get a desk PC with an older soundcard ? And if I do, would that software maybe come with the drivers for the card ? Hell I already dropped the laptop and broke the screen. I brought in a monitor so I could use it but it is an old CRT with a weak CRT so I have to get something better. It was here and it was expendable but it is shitty. Either way, this laptop has a virus, and it is an "upgrade" from Vista to XP. Actually doesn't run all that bad. So I already got a mouse on it and am consieering an external keyboard so I can just slide the thing into a nook somewhere and save bench space.   A tower I could put on the floor but then plugging anythihng into it would be a bitch. Maybe I could make an extender for that joystick jack. With USB it is no problem, in fact I think I have a USB extension cord.   Anyway, comment : Now you see what time can do. I was just about the preemininent authority on TV repair in the past. Seriously. And now I am learning. I have to. I have to because I want more money.   Just like the old days. It's like time got reset.   I am getting used to this work though. People WILL spend some money on it, when they would throw a TV on the curb if it farts wrong. It seems that audio of some type is what I am going to do now. Whether audiophile, and some of them are nuts, or musicians, and all of them are nuts, maybe I can eek out a living until I can get my SS or croak.   I have figured out the usual. I need more bench space. I need to have a spot where I can pull guitar amp chassis and leave the cabinet there. (that resembles how the TV business used to be a LONG time ago)) I have a test speaker that can pretty much handle anything, it has that warning on it "WARNING, THIS SPEAKER CAN MELT YOUR BRAIN AND ANYTHING IN YOUR FRONT POCKETS". Actually another thing might be a power soak. I know how to make those, the one one I have at home consists of a taoster oven and a 150 ohm resistor. I am good up to 1,600 watts I guess but the impedance might rise as it gets hot. If an amp burns that up I AM INPRESSED. But for work I think I'll just order some big Dales.   At any rate, the MIDI thing is one I know very little about, the interface and all that. Other things I do at least have a clue but any pointers would be nice. Do you test ampos at full power before shipping them ? I think it is a good idea but I can't rsally do it right now. It is not common that something fucks up at really high power but sounds fine lower, but it does happen. I would like to at least be able to say I checked it.   Another thing is I intend to connect something other than a guitar to these amps. A simple music source but wired up to the right cables. Maybe the PC audio but padded down and wired to both ¼" and XLR plugs. I can get the material for the PC audio. Hell, I even got sit tones dot wave. Not that I would use it there, but I mean I got such diverse music it is ridiculous. I also have something called cyberkeyboard which is an onscreen keyboard you can play with the mouse or (PC) keyboard. Problem is there is no way to make a pure sine or square wave out of it, but if say I wanted A - 440 or C - 512 I could probably depend on its accuracy.   Anyway, whoever works on all this stuff, what works for you ? tbhough the MIDI question is the main one, any other ideas to make me more effective at this, I appreciate.   Thanks in advance for whatever you got.

Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: Jan 21 01:11PM -0800 > Now comes keyboards. Regular keyboards, fine. But then we have MIDI controllers. These used to plug into the joystick jack on PC soundcards. Now they are USB. That is not the question though, the question is - is there standard software for a PC that would let me test all or most of these controllers ?   Not sure what you're asking, nor am I an expert.   I don't own a dedicated MIDI controller type keyboard. I have a number of cheap keyboards that have a MIDI out port that I use to input music to a laptop.   None of them have the newer USB ports. I use the standard MIDI cable into a MIDI interface like an M-Audio, or an external sound card like the Fast Track. . Provided I don't get the cables confused (MIDI In vs MIDI Out can be tricky) I've never had trouble getting several different laptops to receive the MIDI data. But they have to receive that data into software. I've used music notation programs (like Finale, Sibelius, Noteworthy Composer, etc.) and piano emulation programs like Piannissimo, etc. There is probably MIDI diagnostic software out there but I haven't needed it.   My goal was to build a software based pipe organ using Hauptwerk, just haven't got quite there yet.

mroberds@att.net: Jan 22 01:11AM > That is not the question though, the question is - is there standard > software for a PC that would let me test all or most of these > controllers ?   I know a guy that did MIDI music many years ago (late 90s, early 2000s). I *think* he used software from Cakewalk but I am not 100% sure on this. They still exist and have several software offerings; I'm not sure which one you need. (He's not around for me to ask.)   For your purpose, you might want something like a MIDI protocol analzyer, rather than just a "music" program. A music program will just draw the sheet music as you play the keyboard; a protocol analzyer will show you the individual "note on", "note off", etc messages. Some of the music programs may have a "view MIDI" mode where you can see the raw data.   If you have to check something right *now*, stick a scope on it. I think it's pins 2 and 4 - either side of the center pin. Should be 31.25 or 31.5 kHz, and IIRC, you'll get activity when you depress a key and activity when you release it, but I don't think you get anything when it's just sitting there.   MIDI is unidirectional. If you want a music keyboard to talk to the PC *and* want the PC to talk to the music keyboard, you need to hook up two cables. That's why the ports are labeled IN and OUT. Also, the spec says that the interface is driven by an optocoupler.   > I don't know about everyone else but I think if I fix a keyboard I > should test all the keys. Right ?   I think that's probably a good idea. :)   > Also, let's say an older one comes in with the old joystick plug.   You won't see a keyboard with a 15-pin D connector. As far as I know the standard is/was a 5 pin, 180 degree DIN connector - the "original" ones that are about 0.6" diameter, not the "mini-DIN" ones that are about 0.3" diameter.   Back in the day, soundcards that supported MIDI on the joystick port came with a short adapter cable: one 15 pin D connector to two 5 pin DIN connectors - one in, one out.   I'm pretty sure you can get a MIDI adapter to go from USB to 5-pin DIN.   > Maybe I could make an extender for that joystick jack. With USB it is > no problem, in fact I think I have a USB extension cord.   You can still probably get 5-pin DIN MIDI extensions. Or make some; it might help to use twisted pair but for short distances you may not have to.   > It seems that audio of some type is what I am going to do now.   Free advice: One thing I have noticed, at least with musicians that play live, is that a lot of them will patch something up that will work for two hours. Like, if one of the wires in their amp power cord gets cut, they'll just strip the ends with a pocket knife and twist them together. No tape or wire nut or anything. Or, if the input jack on an amp is flaky, they'll go through all their patch cords until they find one with an 0.255" plug that works better in that particular jack. It may be helpful for you, or the person that takes the stuff in at the counter, to ask about things like that.   > Actually another thing might be a power soak.   Many years ago, I recall reading a story, maybe here, that a tech made one out of an electric stove element. He had it set up so he could still set a pot of water on the element while he was running an amp. He had some of his customers convinced that boiling the water with Pink Floyd made tastier coffee, vs using other music. :)   > At any rate, the MIDI thing is one I know very little about, the > interface and all that.   The Wiki article is OK for a start. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MIDI   I remember some articles on it in Radio-Electronics back in the 80s when it first got popular; if you have back issues you might take a look.   > Another thing is I intend to connect something other than a guitar to > these amps.   Phil Allison recently posted about his ideal audio generator for testing this kind of stuff.   Matt Roberds

Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: Jan 21 06:05PM -0800 > sheet music as you play the keyboard; a protocol analzyer will show you > the individual "note on", "note off", etc messages. Some of the music > programs may have a "view MIDI" mode where you can see the raw data.   Various music programs are what I use, I haven't seen a protocol analyzer. Sounds interesting.   But he's still going to need an interface to convert from MIDI to USB to get it into his laptop in the first place.   I use MIDI for another purpose. I send recordings so people who don't read music can learn to sing or play their parts. I could do .wav or .mp3 formats, but that takes a huge amount of memory. After I've done the files I save in MIDI and email. MIDI is just on and off messages and contains no sampled or recorded data, so it is tiny, just a few k. Then any media player can play it.

rev.11d.meow@gmail.com: Jan 21 06:21PM -0800 http://www.midiox.com/   Welcome to MIDI-OX, the world's greatest all-purpose MIDI Utility! For those with time on their hands, you can read a brief history of MIDI-OX and how it came by its name. We have also included a general description of the utility and change history. The rest of you will want to grab the latest version and get right to work. MIDI-OX was created by Jamie O'Connell and Jerry Jorgenrud.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jan 21 07:26PM -0800 > The state of the TV repair business what it is, I have moved into music equipment. These guys are like the hifi audio guys. And old tube amp from 1957 is gold. Even some solid state amps are at least silver. Powered mixers, they bust a nut every time I fix one of those.   > Now comes keyboards. Regular keyboards, fine. But then we have MIDI controllers. These used to plug into the joystick jack on PC soundcards. Now they are USB. That is not the question though, the question is - is there standard software for a PC that would let me test all or most of these controllers ?     ** Can't advise you on servicing MIDI gear as I have never dealt with it - I do not refuse to look at it but nobody has ever offered me such work, I figure there is very little of it about. The lone keyboard repair specialist in Sydney closed down a few years ago and has not been missed.   For a long-time TV tech to move over to servicing musical electronics is almost unheard of and maybe not possible. A complete change of mindset is required and embarking on a steep learning curve that will probably never level out.   The first this you must learn is how to REALLY use a bench audio generator in conjunction with an analogue scope as you standard test method. While TV techs stare at faulty pictures on a screen - audio techs stare at distorted scope traces.   At lot of the work involves amplifiers,so you need dummy loads of 4,8 and 16 ohms capable of handling 1000 watts. I use a pair of tubular 8ohm, 100W rated resistors submerged in water. A switch box allows me to select 4,8,16 ohms and open while a test is running. For amps up to 100W, water is not needed.   All amps should be tested at full power for enough time to allow thermal faults to show up. I monitor the AC current draw of items under repair, so abnormal bias conditions are immediately obvious as is any tendency for the bias setting to runaway. Valves, PCBs and chassis can and often should be subjected to tapping or bumping while full power testing is in progress - as a way of finding intermittents.   I have a 150W 12inch speaker in a sealed cab for use with guitar amp heads, mostly to see how noisy or microphonic the valves are and to check the hum level. A scope trace does not normally let you know this with any accuracy. I also have a solid body guitar which is rarely used.   Guitar amps do not come with spec sheets nor do they meet any particular standards of performance. What would be a fault condition in one model amp is quite normal behaviour in another. So YOU have to become familiar with the characteristics of every model you see - so you do not waste time trying to fix what the original designer could not.   Be wary of carrying out modifications to meet a customer's request - for that is the pathway to hell. Amps that have already been heavily modified usually acquire faults that are impossible to fix - all you can do is offer to reverse the mods.   The good news is that most of the schems you need are available on the net these day - plus info on common faults and problem products.   When absolutely desperate, you might even try going to a usenet group for help...       .... Phil

jurb6006@gmail.com: Jan 22 12:55AM -0800 >"For a long-time TV tech to move over to servicing musical electronics is almost >unheard of and maybe not possible. A complete change of mindset is required and >embarking on a steep learning curve that will probably never level out. "   Understood, FULLY. this has been challenginmg, but I think the last guy just blew off anything that wasn't easy. The boss saidf he was good at figuring out what wasn't worth fixing. i am going through his leavings actually and can't really fault him.   Anyway, switching horses like this, you say a TV tech can't do it ? WellI ain't limited to that. i built a few things. I have worked on a CNC, a wheel alignment machine and a few other things I just don't remember right now. And alot of audio and some of it high end audio.   Know what Phil, I like that you say I am not likely to succeed. Know why ? It impels me to succeed and I will fly down ther in my Learjet and smack you upside the head. (upside the head is an American saying that civilized people might not understand)   I know I am limited in this a bit, but I can still do something. Guy calls, has some kind of digital jittter eliminator. Needs a power supply and it ain't like your run of the mill wallwart. Building a little power supply for that will be a piece of cake and of course encourage more business. I have done alot of things that others said could not be done.   I was never the avrage TV technician. Now that I am inbto it feet first I can see why you might say the average TV technician might not be able to handle this. I really thought it would be simpler, easier.   Yeah right.

"Gareth Magennis" <gareth.magennis@ntlworld.com>: Jan 22 08:55AM wrote in message news:67170b30-67aa-4b7e-804f-685437c797e4@googlegroups.com...   The state of the TV repair business what it is, I have moved into music equipment. These guys are like the hifi audio guys. And old tube amp from 1957 is gold. Even some solid state amps are at least silver. Powered mixers, they bust a nut every time I fix one of those.   Now comes keyboards. Regular keyboards, fine. But then we have MIDI controllers. These used to plug into the joystick jack on PC soundcards. Now they are USB. That is not the question though, the question is - is there standard software for a PC that would let me test all or most of these controllers ?   If there is I should find an older version for free and stick it on my bench PC. I don't know about everyone else but I think if I fix a keyboard I should test all the keys. Right ?   Also, let's say an older one comes in with the old joystick plug. My bench PC is a laptop and does not have the jack for that. Maybe I should get a desk PC with an older soundcard ? And if I do, would that software maybe come with the drivers for the card ? Hell I already dropped the laptop and broke the screen. I brought in a monitor so I could use it but it is an old CRT with a weak CRT so I have to get something better. It was here and it was expendable but it is shitty. Either way, this laptop has a virus, and it is an "upgrade" from Vista to XP. Actually doesn't run all that bad. So I already got a mouse on it and am consieering an external keyboard so I can just slide the thing into a nook somewhere and save bench space.   A tower I could put on the floor but then plugging anythihng into it would be a bitch. Maybe I could make an extender for that joystick jack. With USB it is no problem, in fact I think I have a USB extension cord.   Anyway, comment : Now you see what time can do. I was just about the preemininent authority on TV repair in the past. Seriously. And now I am learning. I have to. I have to because I want more money.   Just like the old days. It's like time got reset.   I am getting used to this work though. People WILL spend some money on it, when they would throw a TV on the curb if it farts wrong. It seems that audio of some type is what I am going to do now. Whether audiophile, and some of them are nuts, or musicians, and all of them are nuts, maybe I can eek out a living until I can get my SS or croak.   I have figured out the usual. I need more bench space. I need to have a spot where I can pull guitar amp chassis and leave the cabinet there. (that resembles how the TV business used to be a LONG time ago)) I have a test speaker that can pretty much handle anything, it has that warning on it "WARNING, THIS SPEAKER CAN MELT YOUR BRAIN AND ANYTHING IN YOUR FRONT POCKETS". Actually another thing might be a power soak. I know how to make those, the one one I have at home consists of a taoster oven and a 150 ohm resistor. I am good up to 1,600 watts I guess but the impedance might rise as it gets hot. If an amp burns that up I AM INPRESSED. But for work I think I'll just order some big Dales.   At any rate, the MIDI thing is one I know very little about, the interface and all that. Other things I do at least have a clue but any pointers would be nice. Do you test ampos at full power before shipping them ? I think it is a good idea but I can't rsally do it right now. It is not common that something fucks up at really high power but sounds fine lower, but it does happen. I would like to at least be able to say I checked it.   Another thing is I intend to connect something other than a guitar to these amps. A simple music source but wired up to the right cables. Maybe the PC audio but padded down and wired to both ź" and XLR plugs. I can get the material for the PC audio. Hell, I even got sit tones dot wave. Not that I would use it there, but I mean I got such diverse music it is ridiculous. I also have something called cyberkeyboard which is an onscreen keyboard you can play with the mouse or (PC) keyboard. Problem is there is no way to make a pure sine or square wave out of it, but if say I wanted A - 440 or C - 512 I could probably depend on its accuracy.   Anyway, whoever works on all this stuff, what works for you ? tbhough the MIDI question is the main one, any other ideas to make me more effective at this, I appreciate.   Thanks in advance for whatever you got.           For testing MIDI gear you need:   A cheap USB MIDI in/out box. MidiOx (free program that does everything) An old sound module or keyboard.   This is all I have and need.   You will need to hear the results of the keyboard you are repairing, since a lot of faults are due to the velocity sensing not working properly. MidiOx will display all the data but will not tell you this data is not what it should be.   Instead of the old sound module or keyboard, you could instead use a software sequencer with a virtual instrument. I find a physical box much easier, but then I had one. Never bothered to install any sequence software/sounds on the PC, way too much stuff that you need to get working properly. If you're fixing something you need to monitor it with something you KNOW works, not something you have to work out why it isn't right now but it was last week.       These days I also fix a lot of USB controllers that are not keyboards, i.e. they are DJ control surfaces or DAW control surfaces. MidiOx is essential here to test everything, and to display faulty sliders or datapots that throw out spurious data randomly (the equivalent of a scratchy pot on a guitar amp).         Gareth.

"Gareth Magennis" <gareth.magennis@ntlworld.com>: Jan 22 08:59AM Woops, forgot to mention I also have a small MIDI controller keyboard for the odd time I have a sound module to repair, but an old MIDI keyboard will serve as this and the sound you need to test keyboard controllers etc.     Gareth.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Jan 22 01:03AM -0800 I know I only responded to one ittle part of you post. Sorry. do appreciate your response. I just hit that one point to respond to at that time. I will be back, but it is late as fuck and I got as abuzz on.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Jan 22 01:07AM -0800 Shit, that response went to the wrong thread. I think Google is on drugs.   We'll figure this out tomorrow, it is late as..... . .. . ... .

Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: Jan 22 05:16AM -0800 On Thursday, January 22, 2015 at 3:55:46 AM UTC-5, Gareth Magennis wrote: > easier, but then I had one. Never bothered to install any sequence > software/sounds on the PC, way too much stuff that you need to get working > properly.   You aren't kidding about that too much stuff comment. I've had a setup that worked perfectly at home and wouldn't at a gig, because every element in the chain had to be turned on in exactly the right order (PC, keyboard, interface, piano emulation software) or it couldn't sense the other pieces. Once it took more than an hour of trial and error to get a sound.

Bill E. <BillE@spamnot.com>: Jan 15 09:30AM -0800 Small AC motor has corrosion on the shaft (on both sides of rotor) that is inside the bearings. What is the best way to remove the corrosion (chemical or mechaical) and try to keep the shaft as smooth as possible. i will use a teflon lube when reassembling.

Michael Black <et472@ncf.ca>: Jan 15 12:14AM -0500

Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net>: Jan 13 10:25PM +1100 I recently acquired this 20yo Service Monitor (1GHz Spectrum Analyser, etc) which does not boot. I don't wish to discuss its symptoms here, just to ask whether anyone has any service documentation for it?   I've done extensive google searches and found operations manuals, and a few other things including a supplement for the COM-120C variant (including a block diagram) but no schematics - IFR/Aeroflex has kept those really tight. The BatBoard discussion list has a number of other folk who've also looked and found nothing, but I thought perhaps it was worth asking here.   Clifford Heath <firstname.lastname@gmail.com>

Spry <nospam@spamnot.om>: Jan 21 10:37AM -0800 Where can I find LED replacements for standard bayonet and screw in lamps.   Immediate needs are: 4.8v 0.5a miniature screw with lens. 4.8v 0.5a miniature screw (no lens).   etc.

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Jan 21 11:58AM -0800 On Wednesday, January 21, 2015 at 10:37:12 AM UTC-8, Spry wrote: > Where can I find LED replacements for standard bayonet and screw in > lamps.   > 4.8v 0.5a miniature screw (no lens).     That's similar to a 3-battery flashlight, so some commercial items exist, which contain an electronic controller and LED. The base will be odd, though, and it's only good for 4.8VDC, not AC.   <http://www.tek-tite.com/products.php?cat=9>   LED lamps often have built-in lens, there basically ARE no 4pi radiator LED lamps that are exactly like incandescents.

mroberds@att.net: Jan 22 01:38AM > Immediate needs are: > 4.8v 0.5a miniature screw with lens. > 4.8v 0.5a miniature screw (no lens).   Dialight makes some with an E10 screw base - their 586 series. The lowest voltage they spec is 6 V DC; I don't know if they'll run on lower voltages. Try http://www.dialight.com/Assets%5CBrochures_And_Catalogs%5CIndication%5CBased_LED_selector_guide.pdf and scroll down, or http://www.dialight.com/Assets%5CBrochures_And_Catalogs%5CIndication%5CMDEL586MSVIP001.pdf for a wide-range input (6-36 V DC) version. Mouser and Digikey both stock some Dialight stuff.   Chicago Miniature also has some based LEDs, but their website is broken.   APEM has some as well: http://www.apem.com/based-led-indicators-for-bulb-replacement-v9-p-147.html   If these go in a flashlight, look at http://www.candlepowerforums.com . Those people spend a serious amount of time thinking about flashlights.   Standard disclaimers apply: I don't get money or other consideration from any companies mentioned.   Matt Roberds

jurb6006@gmail.com: Jan 21 11:15AM -0800 >"Trash it and buy one that works. "   This is almost like a learning experience. Toward the end of the day, I had finally finished a Yorkville powered mixer that needed about a pound of solder, a giutar amp and a Crate head. So down to the last half hour I was "Well what now ?". Some of the cheaper keyboards can be fixed if all they need is some soldering or in a couple of cases the output chip of they have speakers. I've blown off quite a few better keyboards than that.   Had one that was stuck in sustain and that other thing, port something which akes it slide to the next note. That is without the pedals even plugged in. I traced the pulses all the way through the chips and shit and the micro is getting the proper pulses to NOT be in sustain and whatever, so that is blown off and it is a higher end Yamaha.   Being a store we get a little bit more than twenty bucks for something like this, but not alot. I'm hoping that there is some similarity to the good ones that are in fact, worth fixing. I'm figuring out how this stuff is put together.   In fact you could say that about all that stuff. I fixed TVs for decades, and I wasn't bad at it if I do say so myself. When their value went in the shitter I went on to bigscreens and specialised in that. Now, those $4,000 HD projos with the smartcard reader and hi def tuner and every concievable bell and whistle, you can't giv them away. Well you can and they do on Craigslist but only if they work. You can't get the cost of one STK 392 out of them anymore unless you find just the right buyer. Toward the end of my last TV job, best you could do was maybe a couple hundred. Maybe, and that's with a warranty. That's why I worked on the plasmas and LCDs. Of course the parts exceed the value of the set so, alot of those got blown off. The only thing people would really put money into was plasmas and I fixed a shitload of them. Alot of Ysus and buffers and power supplies. When it gets to the main board sometimes the thing goes in the boneyard and that's that.   Not that they have all that much money, but musicians are a little bit like (and I hate to use the term because I resemble it some) audiophools. They like the tube stuff, and even older solid state stuff.   It's wierd. At flat response I can hear the difference between my Pioneer 850 and POhase Linear 400/2. At flat response there should beno difference. I have checked them with a 1,000 Hz square wave and they both reproduce that perfectly art flat response/tone off. the other day my buddy brough ove two CD players, well changers and one was a DVD changer. He heard a difference between them.   Now come on, he is 66. I am 54 and my ears are shot. I have a hard time understand certain people, like with higher voices. Yet I can hear the difference between two amps. Why ? Is it because the damping factor is 1,000 on the Phase Linear ? Well that might have something to do with it but I am nopt using that audionut speaker wire so half of that dampindg factor i s spent in that resistance.   I have decided to try to expand that guy's business more into some high end audio. He is all for it it seems. I actually do some of that in my basement. On occasion I could take equipment there with me.   He made the case to me about that, and he's right. You have people who have mice expensive old equipment that you can't get anymore, they are alot more comfortable with taking it to a real brick and mortar rather than some guys garage. So he gets some of that profit for having the brick and mortar.   Again, I have been offered autonomy in this. Run it. Your money is separate, do whatever you want but either pay rent or pay rent by doing work for the company. I have turned down a half dozen offers like that, but this locartion is so damn good I am tempted. I just don't like those deals. I would have to stock up all the parts and all that. And honestly I do not know this business all that well yet. I am a quick study for sure, but I've only been in the business for about a month or so.   Really, I think the crossover between music equipment and high end audio would be smooth. Of course if we do that I have to have a talk with them about the shop stereo. I mean one of the "speakers" is a guitar amp. We can do better than that.   At least I am used to the high end audio beecause I did it as it came in at other shops and I am a bit of an afficianado. (sp) But music ? the other week in comes a keyboard. they call me to the floor and the guy is wearing sliver boots and, well, I would say wants to be a rhinestone cowboy or something like that. The USB jack on the keyboard is all frigged up. Well I said OK, he asks should he wait and I told him no, we do not have the jack, plus we have to see if the board is cracked or anything. Next couple days I order the jack, install it and I go to the counter guy and say hey, he should bring in the AC adapter so we can test this thing. He says no, that is a MIDI controller. Sure as shit, there is no audio output on it and no speakers.   Which brings up another question, which I will start a thread on. I have seruiously hiujacked my own thread here which is OK really. That Casio probably won't be fixed. No print means no part numbers. Elcheapo Casio means no parts probably at all. But if I could fix it, well that would be better than not, right ? Just not a high buck job. It happens. Sometimes I am working on something that is only worth twenty bucks, but if I can get it fixed fast, why not ?   Anyway, off to ask my question. Thanks all.

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