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mroberds@att.net: Jan 18 10:22AM > There is very little out there on this thing, one sold on eBay, and > there is a monitor or something with the same or similar model number > that polluts the web results.   You may have seen these already:   One guy on a forum bought one from another guy on that forum. No tech info, but pics of it lit up and working. http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=443860   Another guy on that same site was trying to fix one that had a hum in the audio: http://mail.audiokarma.net/forums/showthread.php?p=8337075   From that thread...   "I recapped the power supply and found that the glue used with some of the bigger caps had eaten away the leads of a diode and a resistor. But it didn't hum, so I don't know...just throwing an idea out there."   There are a couple of images of the boards posted in that thread, but you have to be a member of the forum to see them.   A "what's it worth" site that has dates of 1987 to 1989: http://www.usedprice.com/items/audio/nec/tuner/t710-digital-28507.html   Hey, this one has a little bit of technical description: http://fmtunerinfo.com/reviewsM-N.html#NEC   Quoting the above link:   - Thanks to our contibutor Dave N. for this writeup: "The T-710 is a - 4-gang, dual-gate front end MOSFET design, that features copper foil - capacitors. That means that it still sounds like new, after 15 or so - years, and is very quiet. The T-710 has wide/narrow bandwidths, - separate mute/mono switching, fluorescent display, auto and manual - tuning of .2 kHz, calibration tone and auto and preset channel scan. - [...] The specs include usable sensitivity of 10.8 dBf, S/N ratio of - 78 dB stereo and 85 dB mono, image rejection ratio of 80 dB and IF - rejection ratio of 100 dB.   There is apparently a review in Stereophile Volume 12 (1989), issues 9, 10, or 11, but Google Books won't show you the full text for it.   There is also a review in Stereo Review, December 1987 (probably Volume 52 Number 12), per http://www.roger-russell.com/magrevsr2.htm .   If you get desperate, this place has the service manual for $20 plus unknown shipping (they don't know how to run a shopping cart): https://www.agtannenbaum.com/n_cat.htm#NEC   and this has it for $17 + $6 shipping: http://www.stereomanuals.com/man/rep/nec/   Standard disclaimers apply: I don't get money or other consideration from any companies mentioned.   Matt Roberds

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jan 17 01:13PM Perhaps there is an error in the Woden/Vox code to date data that is out there in a book somewhere. The owner is certain he had this amp and was playing it for his 17th birthday in 1962 and that it was bought for him the year before , for 109 GBP. He remembers which shop and price but unfortunately no receipt/warranty paperwork survives

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Jan 16 05:27PM -0800 On 01/16/2015 3:15 PM, Phil Allison wrote:   > ** The residue of WD40 is simple mineral oil.   > .... Phil   Fair enough, Phil, you've drunk the WD-40 kool-aid.   My experience with the residue of folks using WD-40 in arcade games is a gooey residue which always gums up the works and is very difficult to take apart to repair.   A good oil, grease, or synthetic lube is always preferred to a 'wonder' drug like WD in my books. I guess I'm the anti-WDhrist.   (ducking)   John ;-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>: Jan 16 09:12PM -0500 John Robertson wrote: > take apart to repair.   > A good oil, grease, or synthetic lube is always preferred to a 'wonder' > drug like WD in my books. I guess I'm the anti-WDhrist.     http://www.wd40company.com/files/pdf/msds-wd494716385.pdf   -- Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.

"hrhofmann@sbcglobal.net" <hrhofmann@sbcglobal.net>: Jan 22 02:27PM -0800 Unless it is a simple mechanical problem, keyboards are not worht spending time on. Cheaper to go to a Pawn Shop and get a new working one.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Jan 22 12:39PM -0800 >"Once it took more than an hour of trial and error to get a sound..."   Don't you just love all this automatic shit ? Supposed to make things easier right ? Yeah right.   I heard of people having problems someties with the sound on an HDMI cable. I think it was that they using a TV as a PC monitor and if, I don't remember which, either the TV or PC had to be on first or there would be no sound. And something like that is really not resovable so they would up just using the analog audoip cables - scrw it, it works. Plus the TV speakers were not likely to be audiophile quality where someone would beed to keep the sound so pure as the driven snow by making the analog chain as short as possible.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Jan 22 01:34PM -0800 >here to test everything, and to display faulty sliders or datapots that >throw out spurious data randomly (the equivalent of a scratchy pot on a >guitar amp). "   Hmmm. Got a Yamaha that is stuck in sustain as well as port-something that I can never remeber the name. Where it slides from one note to another. I checked all the way form the jacks to the micro and the pulses seem to be right.   I wonder if a valid test would be to disable any and all MIDI to eliminat that as the source of the problem. I was kinds thinking the micro itself but am not sure enough to even think about ordereing one, if one can even be had.

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