Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 8 updates in 3 topics

9:41 AM Penedão
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: May 31 11:50PM -0700

bud-- wrote:
 
 
> > Yawnnnnn....
 
> Link to the IEEE surge guide was in my first post. Excellent information
> from a completely reliable source.
 
** Fraid it is neither.
 
Nothing more than a simplistic, broad overview with no examples of any commercial products.
 
It does NOT say what you claim.
 
 
 
> >> H-N only protectors can increase risk, not reduce it.
 
> > ** Insane crap.
 
> The problem I described,
 
 
** Listen you pompous halfwit:
 
the ** SAFETY HAZARD ** I am referring to is severe electric shock delivered to the user of the device.
 
Have you no idea how that can happen with MOVs wired to ground in a plug in device? ??
 
Obviously not - since the IEEE etc docs you linked do not bother to mention it.
 
Do I really have to rub your stupid nose in it ?
 
 
> Sometimes you post really interesting information.
 
 
** Not just sometimes.
 
And you still have NO damn clue about the electric shock hazard inherent in connecting a MOV, cap, resistor or any sort of load from the current carrying conductors to safety ground inside a plug-in device.
 
 
 
... Phil
whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Jun 01 12:30AM -0700

On Sunday, May 31, 2015 at 12:14:55 AM UTC-7, Phil Allison wrote:
 
> > Standard practice in the US for plug-in protectors is MOVs from H-N,
> > H-G, N-G.
 
> ** I really doubt using three MOVs like that is *normal* practice - certainly one never sees it in entertainment electronics or test gear, whether made in the USA or elsewhere.
 
It isn't acceptable for US medical devices, but it isn't unknown, either. It's always
combined with a fuse, where I've seen it.
Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Jun 01 11:16AM

On Sun, 31 May 2015 23:50:30 -0700, Phil Allison wrote:
 
> Do I really have to rub your stupid nose in it ?
 
"I'm so sorry; he's from Barcelona."
Deane Williams <pyroartist.dw@gmail.com>: May 31 10:03AM -0700

Jamie,
Thanks but I believe the problem is electrical. The fans still turn easily with little or no drag after they have stopped working. Two years ago I bought a higher quality fan from Home Depot and I thought I had solved the problem as it lasted through 2 summers, but this year it only ran a couple of days and then failed in the same mysterious way as the cheap box fans.
Even stranger, I went out and bought my 4th fan at Home Depot which looks very similar to the one I had and when connected to the SS relay it won't run. It just sits there and hums. So I put it on a timer which is not as good as a thermostat.
sam@repairfaq.org (Samuel M. Goldwasser): May 31 03:54PM -0400

> looks very similar to the one I had and when connected to the SS relay
> it won't run. It just sits there and hums. So I put it on a timer
> which is not as good as a thermostat.
 
THat's perhaps a clue that your SS relay is defective and only switching
one polarity of the line. So you get DC, the fan hums and doesn't turn,
then the motor burns out if left connected.
 
One kludge but effective solution would be to have the SS relay control
an AC/DC relay that switches the fan.
 
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M Philbrook <jamie_ka1lpa@charter.net>: May 31 08:27PM -0400

In article <7a9cad5f-f783-4bb4-8b31-78b7621b8333@googlegroups.com>,
pyroartist.dw@gmail.com says...
 
> Jamie,
> Thanks but I believe the problem is electrical. The fans still turn easily with little or no drag after they have stopped working. Two years ago I bought a higher quality fan from Home Depot and I thought I had solved the problem as it lasted through 2 summers, but this year it only ran a couple of days and then failed in the same mysterious way as the cheap box fans.
> Even stranger, I went out and bought my 4th fan at Home Depot which looks very similar to the one I had and when connected to the SS relay it won't run. It just sits there and hums. So I put it on a timer which is not as good as a thermostat.
 
For testing purposes, connect a drop light with a
incandescent bulb in it on the same circuit that runs the
fan after the SSR. You may only need a small one.

See if the fan will operate with that light also connected to
the same circuit, use a power strip of something that gets powered
via the SSR to make sure you're on the same switched circuit.
 
Report back :)
 
Jamie
isw <isw@witzend.com>: May 31 08:45PM -0700

In article <7a9cad5f-f783-4bb4-8b31-78b7621b8333@googlegroups.com>,
> very similar to the one I had and when connected to the SS relay it won't
> run. It just sits there and hums. So I put it on a timer which is not as good
> as a thermostat.
 
Some SSRs are not happy with largely inductive loads (i.e. fans).
 
Isaac
amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: May 31 11:52AM -0500

On 5/30/2015 9:21 PM, M Philbrook wrote:
> about the bad things no matter who did it :). Talking about good things
> is simply boring !
 
> jamie
 
Hmm, good info, next time it fails, I can pull that transistor and
any/all of the other three with the same number and test beta.
Thanks, Mikek
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