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Chuck <chuck@mydeja.net>: Jun 02 08:13AM -0500 >On Tuesday, May 26, 2015 at 3:46:05 PM UTC-5, Glenn Russell wrote: >> My vintage Sony Trinitron model KV-19TS20 goes wacky after inly a few seconds. screen has jagged lines and makes a noise that changes in pitch from low to high. Can somebody please help me?   >What about the bad connections at the coils to the IF chip. Nobody mentioned that.     You are right. Also the bad grounds in the tuner.   --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. http://www.avast.com

captainvideo462009@gmail.com: Jun 02 06:45AM -0700 On Tuesday, May 26, 2015 at 4:46:05 PM UTC-4, Glenn Russell wrote: > My vintage Sony Trinitron model KV-19TS20 goes wacky after inly a few seconds. screen has jagged lines and makes a noise that changes in pitch from low to high. Can somebody please help me?   Tuner grounds? You may be thinking of RCA

John-Del <ohger1s@aol.com>: Jun 02 07:29AM -0700 > On Tuesday, May 26, 2015 at 4:46:05 PM UTC-4, Glenn Russell wrote: > > My vintage Sony Trinitron model KV-19TS20 goes wacky after inly a few seconds. screen has jagged lines and makes a noise that changes in pitch from low to high. Can somebody please help me?   > Tuner grounds? You may be thinking of RCA   Sony tuners were not immune to bad grounds, particularly the combo tuner/IF modules, although they were no where as troublesome as those RCA CTC17X series.

Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Jun 01 10:22PM > Best guess I have.   > -bruce > bje@ripco.com   Remember the tuning thumb wheels for each channel under the top panel of old-ass VCRs?

Michael Black <et472@ncf.ca>: Jun 01 08:01PM -0400

Bruce Esquibel <bje@ripco.com>: Jun 02 12:37PM > Remember the tuning thumb wheels for each channel under the top panel of > old-ass VCRs?   I remember more prehistoric stuff than that.   Somewhere around here I still have my timer from the Quasar Great Time Machine, a non-vhs, non-beta format that died out around 1983 or so.   Although the main deck had detent tuners (you know, click knobs), the timer to make it auto-record was an optional accessory. It was similar to those timers of the day where you stuck plastic pins in these slots to make a lamp turn on and off.   It sort of looked like two clock faces, one was the analog clock (complete with sweep hand) the other was where you plugged the pins into. The idea was, you plugged the timer into the outlet, the vcr into the clock.   Since the machine was mechanical, you just pressed rec/play down while off and when the timer clicked to "on", it power the vcr up until the next pin passed, which shut the machine off. Of course you had to remember to put it on what channel you wanted before hand.   What was sort of odd, I think there were 8 pins, 4 for on and 4 for off (only a different color, either pin knocked the timer to the other on or off mode). Since the machine couldn't change channels, all you could do was record up to 4 programs within 24 hours of the same channel, since the timer was circular.   The odd part was the tape only held like 60 or 90 minutes, I think. Not really sure where recording 4 programs would work.   I never owned one but I think Sony made a carosel adapter for some of the beta decks, mechanically would eject/insert a new tape when one reached the end.   The stupidest thing I remember is when RCA introduced a vcr where the timer could be set up to a year in advance. I mean on any level, where would a feature like that come in handy and possibly work?   Anyway with the OP's question, the model number gave me a slight tingle being familar (it wasnt in the end) but after looking around for a bit for a picture or anything else, it does seem to be a later model (maybe mid 90's) than a pre-historic one.   I also remember towards the end of those (vcrs in general), there were some that basically had no buttons on the machine except on-off (maybe play/stop also). Even the tracking was on the remote only.   Panasonic (which used to market as National in some countries) did do some stupid things once in a while. Next to me is a DMR-EH75V which was one of those vhs-hdd-dvd recorders they made about 10 years ago, very handy to make dvd's from vhs, the tape dumps to the hard drive, once there you can control how to make the dvd. Sort of an editing deck.   The problem is the clock, there is no manual set for it. It used to use the EPG for the info, which of course, no analog channels, no EPG, no clock. Someone did figure out a secret menu thing, hit reset while pressing two other buttons and some kind of "it only appears once" manual clock set comes up in an on-screen menu, but without the EPG, I've had free watches from cereal boxes keep better time.   -bruce bje@ripco.com

Bruce Esquibel <bje@ripco.com>: Jun 02 01:00PM > long I'm not sure. At least it was palm size remote, unlike some early > cable converters that had a box with a lot of pushbuttons that you kept > at your chair, the converter being on top of the tv set.   Those kinds of wired remotes were common for a while, I guess most of the 2nd generations (80-83?) used them. They weren't hard wired in, most had a 3.5" mono earphone plug.   They even had "wars" with those. Most were 4 function (stop/play/ff/rw) but someone would have a "6 function" (probably channel up/down added) and some even went as far as adding a record.   The odd thing to me was how they did it, it was just a two-wire cord and the remote had no battery. The hand unit itself was a resistor ladder, like pressing stop was a dead short, play was maybe 220 ohms, ff was 1000, rew maybe 4700 ohms. I don't remember what they used in the machine to read it, I always thought it was something like those chips they used to sell for making your own led VU meter. Each function was another "step".   Once the IR remotes came out, it was the end of wired ones but I bet they were fairly standard issue for 2 or 3 years, if not a bit longer.   One other memory fragment, I think it was Panasonic that introduced a wireless upgrade device. If you had one of their decks with a wired remote, they made (for a while) a black box which came with a IR hand held remote, box plugged into the jack for the wired remote, into the 120V and instant wireless. Wasn't cheap and probably wasn't made for more than a year or two.   -bruce bje@ripco.com

"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com>: Jun 02 01:53AM +0100 > I have long suspected the laser power adjustments on the cheapies are > shipped unadjusted - perhaps merely centered.   > Mark Z.   I think you might be right Mark. I have also used these cheap complete mechs for exactly the same reasons as Gareth - that is to make a repair viable. A couple of months back, I had a major fight with an eBay supplier over one that didn't work. It actually looked like someone had been having a go with a poker on the board on the back of the optical unit.   I contacted the supplier, and told him that the unit did nor work, right out of the box, and it looked like someone had taken a poker to the soldering. He replied and tried to tell me that it was just typical lead-free soldering that I was looking at, and that I should just turn up the gain pot and it would work just fine. I politely told him that I had been repairing CD players since the day they were released onto the market in the 80s, and I could tell the difference between lead free solder, and someone having been at it with a nail heated up on a gas ring. I also told him that there wasn't a gain pot.   He replied again and said that there was nothing wrong with the soldering, and I should adjust the gain pot on the back of the laser. So I sent him a photo of the shit-street soldering, and told him that the pot on the back of the optical block was not a gain pot, but an adjustment in the feedback loop for controlling the output power of the laser diode, and that on Sony lasers, it should not be adjusted willy-nilly, otherwise damage to the laser diode could easily be done. I further assured him that I had sufficient experience of replacing lasers to be able to say with absolute certainty that this one was faulty, and that I would like it replacing please. And still he went on about adjusting the "gain pot", finally suggesting that I send the whole piece of equipment back to him, and he would repair it for me ...   At this point, I got really mad, and asked him if he really thought that I was trying to have him over for eight fucking quid ???!!!   Eventually, he sent me another, and that worked ok immediately, but significantly, these cheap replacements never seem to have the 'normal' paint blob on the pot. I seem to recall also that the original Sony lasers had a little dot matrix printed label on them that had some figures, amongst which were the factory-measured laser current ??   So maybe these ones *are* being shipped unadjusted ... With most manufacturers, 1 volt p-p eye pattern at the RF test point seems to be an 'unwritten' standard so might be worth checking next time one of us fits one of these.   Arfa

thekmanrocks@gmail.com: Jun 02 04:56AM -0700 CD players were never intended to be designed to last. The developers of ARPA-NET(predecessor to the Internet) KNEW, forty years beforehand, of its potential and of the ultimate culmination: the CLOUD.     CDDA(Compact Disc Digital Audio) was just a teaser, a temporary stand-in for the ultimate transition of all media(music, movies, TV, books, and news)from their physical form to a server-based access point.     I frequent retailers in the second-hand industry("thrift stores"), and of every ten CD or DVD players donated, only TWO actually work! They were built flimsily ON PURPOSE, because manufacturers know what was coming next - mp3s, WAVs, Napster, iTunes, NetFlix, and the Cloud. You never see anyone in "Star Trek" insert a disc or tape into a machine to play something back, do you? Welcome to Star Trek my friends! It's here(we just need to figger out how to build those cool ships...).     I still hold on to my physical collection and the gear to play it on because I believe in something that everyone else has forgotten about - BACK-UP. And also, music & movies physically played back just plain sound and look better!

"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com>: Jun 02 01:20AM +0100 "Tim Schwartz" <tim@bristolnj.com> wrote in message news:mket8q$j5o$1@dont-email.me... > even if you done this many times before.   > Regards, > Tim   Oh Tim, you lightweight ! :-) It's amazing what can be done with a big flat-bladed screwdriver and a dentist's pick !   That said, I struggled this morning with a NAD cassette deck. The whole front had to come off, then the tape deck had to be unscrewed from the front. Then the bearing / motor plate had to come off which was secured by just one screw, but then had to slide in 'three dimensions' to get it off the chassis out the way. Removing this allowed the spiral tension spring for the cam gear lever to come off the post that it sat on, normally held in place by the plate. About the only good thing was that a temporary anchor post for the belt was provided to allow it to be put round the flywheel and held in tension until the motor pulley was back where it should be when the plate was back on. And what a bitchin' job putting it back together was. It was impossible to get that tension spring back in place and get it to stay, in tension, whilst that plate was refitted. But when the plate was refitted, it was almost impossible to wind it up the 3/4 turn necessary to get the end back under its locating tang. I finished up grabbing the end with a hemostat - such a useful tool for this sort of work - then using the dentist's pick to pull it round whilst guiding it with the hemostat, and finally using the hemostat to hook it into place before releasing it. How many attempts ? I dunno, three, four maybe ?   Not as long as two hours, but probably more than one, and like you, I've been doing them for years. Not so often now of course, but several a week, back in the day ...   Arfa

jurb6006@gmail.com: Jun 01 07:34PM -0700 Y'know, we are to the point in technology where it would be cheaper to just use three motors. Would give alot more functionality as well.

Jon Elson <elson@pico-systems.com>: Jun 01 04:47PM -0500 Deane Williams wrote:   > very similar to the one I had and when connected to the SS relay it won't > run. It just sits there and hums. So I put it on a timer which is not as > good as a thermostat. These fans have one-time thermal fuses buried in the windings, to prevent house fires. If you are using this to cool off a hot attic, that may be getting the thermal fuse too close to the fusing temperature, add a couple hours of motor on time and the fuse may blow.   Jon

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