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N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jun 09 10:41AM +0100 On 09/06/2015 09:25, Arfa Daily wrote: > red passing through the wall enough to be able to read them with such an > item ?   > Arfa   Events have overtaken this project. Since my last visit they've removed the wallpaper, not surprising as a horrible green. On the negative side the walls had been emulsioned with white emulsion paint some years before the wallpaper went on. On the positive side , as standard white emulsion, it should be easier to get permission to strip back this top layer of paint, and easily repaint if nothing there. I've tried oblique NIR on it and nothing seen. A youngster around reckoned he could see a letter under the paint with his young eyesight but not myself or the NIR video capture with waving torch. But we now know exactly where to strip back the paint as 2 bits of the text, top and bottom of it, were not painted over in effect, which shows there is likely more text for any doubting Thomases. Top bit not covered and lower bit emerged with routine daily cleaning rubbing back the paint enough to make out some letters. I've tried diluting none methyl-chloride paint stripper 1 to 3 with meths and that gently removes emulsion but leaves any gloss paint underneath, untouched. Just need permission now

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jun 03 12:16PM +0100 On 03/06/2015 09:13, Andre Majorel wrote:   > Judging by the shape, it could be a thermocouple or an RTD. Does > anyone know what it is ?   > Thanks in advance !   looks like one of those compact bimetal dome switches, try heating wiht a hot air gun connected to DVM-R

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jun 05 07:23PM +0100 I expect to see that VDE compliance triangle on mains rated components only

"Gareth Magennis" <sound.service@btconnect.com>: Jun 05 07:44PM +0100 "micky" wrote in message news:qh82napj3334vheoaobkgk76qnqf90e8ss@4ax.com...   I didn't start working on this soon enough to buy the proper airplane adapter for sound, like http://www.amazon.com/AIRPLANE-HEADPHONES-ADAPTER-AIRLINE-EARPHONE/dp/B002Q3II30 or http://radioshacklb.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1345 charge 5500 LBP Lebanon Pounds!! Not enough time to ship from Lebanon.   Office Depot used to have this but doesn't anymore.   But can't I just plug my 2.5 or 3.5 mm stereo plug in the monaural jack and get sound in one ear? One ear is good enough for me   2.5 mm = 0.1" 3.5 mm = 7/5 x 0.1" =0.14" inches, Maybe neither is close enough to 1/8" = 0.125".   I have a bunch of other adapters. And other earphones. What size plugs into computers?   I fly rarely and the last time I think the earphones were just plastic tubes.                 Blimey, one of these days you North Americans are going to have to wake up to the fact that the use of "Fractions of Inches" should have died last century.   This is a classic case in point.     Gareth.

Allodoxaphobia <knock_yourself_out@example.net>: Jun 05 03:55PM On Fri, 05 Jun 2015 02:56:57 -0400, micky wrote:   > I fly rarely and the last time I think the earphones were just plastic > tubes.   ........ and propulsion was via propellers. :-)   I have not seen the "stethoscope" earphones since maybe the early 90's.   Jonesy

Brian Gregory <bvdvgvrvevgvovrvy@gmail.com>: Jun 06 12:02AM +0100 On 26/03/2015 15:51, DaveC wrote:   > If not, where to get drivers for OS X?   > Thanks, > Dave   https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=fake+FTDI+chips&num=100&newwindow=1&espv=2&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=7SlyVdi4PMet7Ab0toCQBA&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAg&biw=1466&bih=812#imgrc=tuuKArYj7zFk-M%253A%3BJMB8rTb_e9YURM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fi.ytimg.com%252Fvi%252FSPdSKT6KdF8%252Fhqdefault.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fhackaday.com%252F2014%252F10%252F22%252Fwatch-that-windows-update-ftdi-drivers-are-killing-fake-chips%252F%3B480%3B360   --   Brian Gregory (in the UK). To email me please remove all the letter vee from my email address.

Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Jun 03 03:40PM > https://www.ieee.org/about/management_council.html?WT.mc_id=lp_ab_imc   > Totally irrelevant, of course.   > ... Phil   I have to agree with Phil here. The key here is plug-in device. This is why "surge strips" or any sort of power strip with surge supression are just pure trash.   when these devices are not on fire, and are able to shunt some sort of surge, real or imagined into ground, you elevate the voltage on that segment of the ground circuit. That destroys or interferes with all the other equiment connected to that that ground.   Keep in mind lots of grounds aren't even really grounded, or grounded properly, especially in homes, old homes or places with poorly done electrical work. The end of the line is the worst place to try to stop a surge.   I had to remove some walls in a new space office space and wiring we found was appalling. Had to have the building engineer drop by to take a look for himself. He was baffled as well. Disconneting the weird wiring even resulted in one light switch causing the lights to just flicker instead off turn off in the off position. It wasn't even a two way switch.

Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Jun 04 07:45PM > Experts at the IEEE and NIST say say they are effective. That is based > on research and experience.   > Where is a source that agrees with you?   I don't know, every business that has surge sensitive equipment that installs proper service entrance surge surpression devices instead of using "power strips" and other nonsense.   You can read white papers from a committee all day and take that as how things work. It's not necessarily what happens back in the real world.   >> other equiment connected to that that ground.   > The IEEE surge guide clearly explains how plug-in protectors work. It is > not primarily by earthing the surge.   That's the problem. What happens when I send 1500 volt surge down the hot side of 120 volt circuit? A mov shunts that do neutral and all is good? It's real good to have voltages on your neutral circuit.   Plug in protectors are garbage unless your source of surges is small and on the same ciruit you're protecting. So yeah, plug your old, broken, arcy electric drill into a $2 power strip.   > explained in the IEEE surge guide (starting page 30) plug-in protectors > work primarily by limiting the voltage from each wire to the ground at > the protector. To do that all wires must go through the protector."   This is an unrealistic scenario in real life. Back to what I said earier, any business that has critical load, even down to POS systems will install a service entrance surge surpressor, sometimes with ground/neutral rebonding isolation transformers, usually for a cash register and printer. No consumer in history has ever given a hoot about the perfect star topolgy for their power strip. Those devices are jokes.   > I have linked to, and on published research.   > On the other side are opinions by you and Phil.   > Maybe if you figured out how they worked....   That's right.

"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>: Jun 05 10:02AM -0400 > >minutes. "   > Friend of mine used to live in FLorida and said it is the lightmning capital of the world. Can't be sure it is true but he told me he lost so many answering machines he decided to just get voicemail from the phone company.   > Back then things were a bit different. Answering machines were more popular and voicemail wasn't. Bottom line though, you can't do call screening on voicemail.     One strike where I lived vaporized the line from the house to the pedestal, a mile away. There, it blew up the SLIC, then continued the rest of the way into town, to the C.O. The pair was bad all the way from our NIC, to the C.O. It destroyed the C-band sat system, a stereo, a TV and a computer monitor that wasn't connected to the PC at the time. The video cable was wrapped around the base on the monitor. The only thing that wasn't damaged was the microwave oven, which was plugged into a surge suppresser.

"Gareth Magennis" <sound.service@btconnect.com>: Jun 04 05:39PM +0100 "Phil Allison" wrote in message news:5d351c76-368f-4d54-b830-2a8ac0e3ee21@googlegroups.com...   Gareth Magennis wrote:     > Here's a link to a different model's schematic to the one I have, that > does > a similar thing:   http://www.schematicsunlimited.com/m/mesa-boogie/mesa-boogie-dual-rectifier-amplifier-schematic     ** The problem I see there is the heater to cathode voltage is over the 180V limit for a 12AX7.   http://free-hosting.infodiv.com/audiotube/small_signal_triode/small_signal_triode0034/12AX7_Page_1.jpg   Same goes for all the Fender amps that use 12AT7s for the phase splitter, where the cathode voltage is around 140V when the spec says 90.   http://free-hosting.infodiv.com/audiotube/small_signal_triode/small_signal_triode0002/12AT7_Page_1.jpg   The reverb drive valve in most Fenders is also a 12AT7 where the anode voltage is over 400V ( driving a small tranny) while the spec is 300.   I bought a dozen JAN numbered 12AT7s once ( branded GE ) that lit up purple inside if you used them in the reverb position in Fenders, plus made a lot of noise. They were perfectly OK in the phase splitter position.   Amp makers often say to use only their brand name valves, sometimes for a good reason.     ... Phil         Right, measured all the voltages today. It has 6 pre-amp valves. One half of V2 runs at 343v Anode/Cathode, the Reverb valve is pretty much as you described Fenders circuit, i.e. a mighty 398v on a ECC83, running through a small tranny. All other valves run below the 300v Anode max.   I also measured the Heater/Cathode voltages. One was 206v, another 205v. All others well below the 180v max.     This made me laugh though - I was measuring the Heater/Cathode voltage using pin 5 as reference, and measuring pins 3 and 8 with a multimeter. I got the various voltages on V3 to V6, but V1 and V2 measured around -10v. That's a NEGATIVE 10v.   I had to have a good look at the schematic to find out how this was possible!       Thanks, this has been educational.       Gareth.

Michael Black <et472@ncf.ca>: Jun 02 11:06PM -0400

Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Jun 01 10:22PM > Best guess I have.   > -bruce > bje@ripco.com   Remember the tuning thumb wheels for each channel under the top panel of old-ass VCRs?

Michael Black <et472@ncf.ca>: Jun 01 08:01PM -0400

Bruce Esquibel <bje@ripco.com>: Jun 02 01:00PM > long I'm not sure. At least it was palm size remote, unlike some early > cable converters that had a box with a lot of pushbuttons that you kept > at your chair, the converter being on top of the tv set.   Those kinds of wired remotes were common for a while, I guess most of the 2nd generations (80-83?) used them. They weren't hard wired in, most had a 3.5" mono earphone plug.   They even had "wars" with those. Most were 4 function (stop/play/ff/rw) but someone would have a "6 function" (probably channel up/down added) and some even went as far as adding a record.   The odd thing to me was how they did it, it was just a two-wire cord and the remote had no battery. The hand unit itself was a resistor ladder, like pressing stop was a dead short, play was maybe 220 ohms, ff was 1000, rew maybe 4700 ohms. I don't remember what they used in the machine to read it, I always thought it was something like those chips they used to sell for making your own led VU meter. Each function was another "step".   Once the IR remotes came out, it was the end of wired ones but I bet they were fairly standard issue for 2 or 3 years, if not a bit longer.   One other memory fragment, I think it was Panasonic that introduced a wireless upgrade device. If you had one of their decks with a wired remote, they made (for a while) a black box which came with a IR hand held remote, box plugged into the jack for the wired remote, into the 120V and instant wireless. Wasn't cheap and probably wasn't made for more than a year or two.   -bruce bje@ripco.com

"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com>: Jun 02 01:20AM +0100 "Tim Schwartz" <tim@bristolnj.com> wrote in message news:mket8q$j5o$1@dont-email.me... > even if you done this many times before.   > Regards, > Tim   Oh Tim, you lightweight ! :-) It's amazing what can be done with a big flat-bladed screwdriver and a dentist's pick !   That said, I struggled this morning with a NAD cassette deck. The whole front had to come off, then the tape deck had to be unscrewed from the front. Then the bearing / motor plate had to come off which was secured by just one screw, but then had to slide in 'three dimensions' to get it off the chassis out the way. Removing this allowed the spiral tension spring for the cam gear lever to come off the post that it sat on, normally held in place by the plate. About the only good thing was that a temporary anchor post for the belt was provided to allow it to be put round the flywheel and held in tension until the motor pulley was back where it should be when the plate was back on. And what a bitchin' job putting it back together was. It was impossible to get that tension spring back in place and get it to stay, in tension, whilst that plate was refitted. But when the plate was refitted, it was almost impossible to wind it up the 3/4 turn necessary to get the end back under its locating tang. I finished up grabbing the end with a hemostat - such a useful tool for this sort of work - then using the dentist's pick to pull it round whilst guiding it with the hemostat, and finally using the hemostat to hook it into place before releasing it. How many attempts ? I dunno, three, four maybe ?   Not as long as two hours, but probably more than one, and like you, I've been doing them for years. Not so often now of course, but several a week, back in the day ...   Arfa

Jon Elson <elson@pico-systems.com>: Jun 01 04:47PM -0500 Deane Williams wrote:   > very similar to the one I had and when connected to the SS relay it won't > run. It just sits there and hums. So I put it on a timer which is not as > good as a thermostat. These fans have one-time thermal fuses buried in the windings, to prevent house fires. If you are using this to cool off a hot attic, that may be getting the thermal fuse too close to the fusing temperature, add a couple hours of motor on time and the fuse may blow.   Jon

Trevor Wilson <trevor@SPAMBLOCKrageaudio.com.au>: Jun 11 01:58PM +1000 I'm looking for a cheap and cheerful bench power supply. Here are the desired specs:   50-0-50 Volts, variable. 0-3 Amps, variable. Tracking   Ideally, I would like:   0-5 Amps Linear rather than SMPS 230/240VAC   The last three are not deal-breakers though. I've seen a few on eBay, but am not certain about quality. Like this:   http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Dr-Meter-HY5005E-2-SWITCHING-DUAL-DC-POWER-SUPPLY-50V-5A-Variable-/221422197471?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item338dca9adf   It would be nice to find one here in Australia, but 30-0-30 seems to be the limit for the popular choices.   -- Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au   --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

Trevor Wilson <trevor@SPAMBLOCKrageaudio.com.au>: Jun 11 02:03PM +1000 On 11/06/2015 1:58 PM, Trevor Wilson wrote:   > http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Dr-Meter-HY5005E-2-SWITCHING-DUAL-DC-POWER-SUPPLY-50V-5A-Variable-/221422197471?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item338dca9adf   > It would be nice to find one here in Australia, but 30-0-30 seems to be > the limit for the popular choices.   **I found this at Element14:   http://au.element14.com/tenma/72-10500/power-supply-2ch-30v-3a-adjustable/dp/2251948   I wonder how difficult it would be to hack two of these to provide tracking:   https://www.rockby.com.au/Rockby/Mailer/RH_42287_1.htm#42287   I imagine that Wavecom is the manufacturer for Tenma. Possibly someone has hacked these things?   -- Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au   --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

captainvideo462009@gmail.com: Jun 10 11:08PM -0700 On Thursday, June 11, 2015 at 12:00:30 AM UTC-4, Trevor Wilson wrote:   > --- > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. > https://www.avast.com/antivirus   I would want my bench power supply to be as quiet as possible. Who cares about efficiency when you're designing and powering up a prototype. You may wind up with a switcher in the final design but I would definitely not get a switcher frr new product evaluation. Lenny.

Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net>: Jun 11 11:19AM -0400 >> The last three are not deal-breakers though. I've seen a few on >> eBay, but am not certain about quality. Like this:   >> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Dr-Meter-HY5005E-2-SWITCHING-DUAL-DC-POWER-SUPPLY-50V-5A-Variable-/221422197471?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item338dca9adf   It would be nice to find one here in Australia, but 30-0-30 seems to be > prototype. You may wind up with a switcher in the final design but I > would definitely not get a switcher frr new product evaluation. > Lenny.   Switchers plus cap multipliers are pretty good. If you're willing to spend a volt or two of headroom, you can get ~100 dB rejection at SMPS frequencies.   You can put a shunt regulator on the cap multiplier to get better load regulation, e.g. by making it run exactly 2 volts below the input supply. (You obviously have to filter the thing you're tracking, as well.   While it doesn't work at your power level, one of my favourite approaches is to use some random laptop power brick followed by 150-kHz Simple Switchers with toroidal inductors and cap multipliers. Easy, cheapish, very quiet, no messing around with mains voltages.   Cheers   Phil Hobbs   -- Dr Philip C D Hobbs Principal Consultant ElectroOptical Innovations LLC Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics   160 North State Road #203 Briarcliff Manor NY 10510   hobbs at electrooptical dot net http://electrooptical.net

captainvideo462009@gmail.com: Jun 11 06:30AM -0700 > Hi, > I replaced the main board on my sony 55w802A with a 47w802A. The TV comes on and even flashed SONY across the screen once while trying to reset it to factory setting. However, it usually comes up and does one white flash followed by about 1/2 second intervals of green/amber. I think I need to replace its firmware. I have the firmware on a USB device and have put in in the USB port. However, I can't seem to get further then this following instructions on how to update firmware. If tried unplug 1 min and plug back in and hold up arrow and press power on. This does nothing. No text on screen. I have other replacement parts from a 47 inch model and am willing to replace these too. But it really seems like all i need is a s/w update. I assume all the s/w is the firmware. I'm I correct?   > Any advice welcome?   I'm bitter too. I'm 69 now and I fixed my first set when I was 13. Then in High School in Junior year they offered a TV repair course. It soon got so the teacher wouldn't call on me anymore because I knew all the answers. He and I would compare notes and discuss service calls after class. I got 95 in one semester and 100 in the next. Good thing too because of the way I slept through and blew off the academics. This brought my average up above 65 anyway.   Back then a service call was 3.00 and tubes were 1.60, and if you walked away from a call with 5.00 You were doing well. I didn't drive until I was 18 so I'd put the tube caddy in a supermarket shopping cart and walk to the call. I grew up in The Bronx so everything was done within the neighborhood and was within walking distance.   Throughout my career I had many different types of electronics jobs, but regardless of what I ever did at any given time I continued to do TV repairs on the side. Then in 1983 I got fired from my last job by the LAST asshole boss I said that I would ever have. I went full time for myself, and just like Jurb, (who by the way helped me out a lot back in those days on this forum with tough dogs)I too made a decent living up until a few years ago doing TV repairs.   At times I used to do 30 sets a month. Now with all the cheap crap coming out of China, (which I'm convinced is specifically designed to fail as soon as the warranty period is up), a great many sets are now BER before they're even unpacked. Who's going to pay 200.00 to fix a 300.00 set? It simply goes in the hopper, along with my dwindling income. These days I'm lucky if I see 30 sets a Year.   These days, engineering is shit, parts are NLA after three years, there is no longer much if any manufacturer support, and customers have dumped their old reliable tube sets by the truckload and succumbed to this wave of imported "uneconomical to repair" shit. Actually that's not completely true. Some parts are available. However, they're so fucking expensive as to make many repairs uneconomical. So I might get a 50.00 diagnosis fee and then they come and pick up the set. Or they try to stick me with it saying "you can have it for parts". Like I need another boat anchor in my basement. And this might happen twice a month.   So here I am on a Thursday morning. Instead of working down in the shop I'm sitting here on the couch in my underwear writing this. At 69 I'm not about to reinvent myself, so for what it's worth I'm hanging in there.   Hey now's the time to resurrect those old HO trains for my grandson, fix those old RCA 630 chassis I've had in the basement from day 1, repair my RC plane and fly it again, etc, etc. I've got plenty to do, and although sure, I'm bitter too, what the fuck, life goes on, doesn't it? Lenny

captainvideo462009@gmail.com: Jun 10 03:53PM -0700 We had to take apart a motor from a Rigid thickness planer to resurface the commutator. We reassembled the motor and as crazy as this sounds we think that its now running in reverse. If we inadvertently reversed the wires to the brushes would this happen? That seems to be the only variable here. Thanks, Lenny

"Rheilly Phoull" <rheilly@bigslong.com>: Jun 11 07:22AM +0800 wrote in message news:7e62bbc7-397d-4f53-95ad-c2d6c2d48f9c@googlegroups.com...   We had to take apart a motor from a Rigid thickness planer to resurface the commutator. We reassembled the motor and as crazy as this sounds we think that its now running in reverse. If we inadvertently reversed the wires to the brushes would this happen? That seems to be the only variable here. Thanks, Lenny   You have hit it in one :-)

M Philbrook <jamie_ka1lpa@charter.net>: Jun 10 08:15PM -0400 In article <7e62bbc7-397d-4f53-95ad-c2d6c2d48f9c@googlegroups.com>, captainvideo462009@gmail.com says...   > We had to take apart a motor from a Rigid thickness planer to resurface the commutator. We reassembled the motor and as crazy as this sounds we think that its now running in reverse. If we inadvertently reversed the wires to the brushes would this happen? That seems to be the only variable here. Thanks, Lenny   if the motor has 4 wires then yes, you could of reversed the stator wires.   In cases where there are only two wires and you disconnected the wires from the stator, you may not have used the correct wire in the stator.   This assumes you are talking about a series type motor.   But pulling a basic series motor appart for a basic clean up should not cause pain.   I suppose if you damaged one of the wires in the rotor by shorting together It could go the otherway, however, it should also not spin as fast as it should have less power now at the shaft and same current or more.   Jamie

etpm@whidbey.com: Jun 10 05:24PM -0700 On Thu, 11 Jun 2015 07:22:33 +0800, "Rheilly Phoull" >the brushes would this happen? That seems to be the only variable here. >Thanks, Lenny   >You have hit it in one :-) If I recall correctly a series wound AC motor will not reverse by just changing the wires to the brushes. You would need to reverse the connections to the field winding. One end of the field winding is connected to one AC line and the other end to a brush. Then the current flows through the rotor windings and out to the other brush and from there to the other AC line. Did you maybe swap the field winding connections? Eric

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