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"Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney" <Snuffy-Hub-Cap@Livebait-McKinney.com>: Jul 18 08:59AM -0700 <KLayton888@aol.com> wrote in message news:6dc4947e-34f3-45eb-91f3-e970a8093315@googlegroups.com...   > > Previous oven was also Black & Decker and used for 20 years. Was still working when replaced because heating elements started to heat unevenly.   > > I would not recommend the TRO480BS. Many problems -- those I recall are door can't be adjusted to close evenly, letting too much air in/out on one side. Top and bottom heaters don't heat equally - have to turn toast over to brown both sides, etc.   > Try posting in sci.electronics.repair   Thanks.

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jul 18 12:29PM +0100 Luckily not the internal PTO cam/cogs area but the latch under the keys. Small squarish plastic nib under the key, a corner edge of it bears against a 45 degree angle of one of the steel plate slider-bars. Taken all those years of use to wear back the corner to a bit of a flat. Decided on a bodge of a thin piece of PTFE along the key , wired into its guide slot, to reliably cant over the key to allow that latch to engage. Incidently anyone know of a perhaps non-ideal, but not expensive and "solidified before next use" glue for PTFE?

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jul 17 05:27PM -0700 On Fri, 17 Jul 2015 08:55:41 -0700, "David Farber" >the chip.   >It turns out the guy that I was going to send my board to for an $80 repair >needs the entire laptop so I nixed that idea.   That's odd. In order to reflow or replace the video chip, he would need to remove the motherboard from the case. I guess he wants the whole machine so he can check the results of his work. I don't know if that's a good or bad thing. Anyway, it takes me about 30 minutes to get to the point where I can reflow the board, and about 45-60 minutes to put it back together sufficiently to test the laptop. All that for $80 is a bargain.   This one looks interesting: <http://www.ebay.com/itm/230491379295> On his workorder form, there's a check box for: [ ] Check box if ok to attempt Reball if reflow fails **If successful I will create a invoice thru paypal and send to your email for $30 which brings the price up to $70. He has a different listing for fixing the entire laptop for $120. <http://www.ebay.com/itm/230685305682>     -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

"David Farber" <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Jul 17 11:07PM -0700 Jeff Liebermann wrote: > which brings the price up to $70. > He has a different listing for fixing the entire laptop for $120. > <http://www.ebay.com/itm/230685305682>       Hi Jeff,       I saw the service order form with the various choices for repair which made me wonder at what point do you have to replace the chip? Does he spend the time to reflow, then reball, then if those fail, then replace the chip? That seems very time consuming.       Here's the reply I got from my original question regarding whether or not he can replace the chip:   [begin quote]   Hi. Yes I can replace the chip with a new one. That is the best way to get it fixed. If sending me the board only it would be 65 plus the cost of the chip. Or 120 if you want to send the whole unit. Chips usually run in the 30-50 range. If you have any other questions let me know.   James   [endquote]       I replied basically asking, "How do you determine if the chip needs to be replaced?" My thought being is it just to make sure the problem never occurs again?       The gentleman that offered the $80 repair is here. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HEV43byTP9I   and www.fixmyvideogpu.com       Thanks for your reply. -- David Farber Los Osos, CA

thekmanrocks@gmail.com: Jul 17 06:42PM -0700 Depressing discovery:     These particular JVC receivers have PC boards arranged in a specific way: main "mother" board at the bottom, with two input boards angled 90deg. to it - vertical.     On the larger of the two vertical PC boards are most of the inputs: Tape 1, VCR in/out, CD, Video, & Phono. This larger vertical board interfaces the main board via two multi-pin connections(20-30?) pins each.     It is when gently moving this board side to side or up/ down, that I can cause the center channel to cut out in surround mode. In regular stereo mode, moving that input board has no effect aside from minor crackling.     This model receiver is just over 20 years old, and my examples of it are showing its age. Unfortunate, as I have no need for the features of modern receivers if ya cain't even hook up a phono or a cassette deck to 'em!       What I might end up doing is using the old JVC for all my analog sources, then Tape1 out to the "PC" or DVD input on a new digital 7.1 receiver. My TV and DVD player can just HDMI out to that modern unit, and when I want to listen to CD, cassette, 8-track, or records, i just select that input on the old JVC, and the remaining analog audio input on the modern receiver.

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