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"David Farber" <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Jul 17 08:55AM -0700 Jeff Liebermann wrote: > Oops. However, these JetDirect cards worked 100%. However, LJ2300 > controller cards had only one success out of three: > <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/repair/BGA%20reflow/>   Hi Jeff,   I just sent an e-mail to the eBay vendor you linked and directly quoted your question about whether or not they do just a reflow or replace and/or reball the chip.   It turns out the guy that I was going to send my board to for an $80 repair needs the entire laptop so I nixed that idea.   Thanks for your reply. -- David Farber Los Osos, CA

"David Farber" <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Jul 17 11:07PM -0700 Jeff Liebermann wrote: > which brings the price up to $70. > He has a different listing for fixing the entire laptop for $120. > <http://www.ebay.com/itm/230685305682>       Hi Jeff,       I saw the service order form with the various choices for repair which made me wonder at what point do you have to replace the chip? Does he spend the time to reflow, then reball, then if those fail, then replace the chip? That seems very time consuming.       Here's the reply I got from my original question regarding whether or not he can replace the chip:   [begin quote]   Hi. Yes I can replace the chip with a new one. That is the best way to get it fixed. If sending me the board only it would be 65 plus the cost of the chip. Or 120 if you want to send the whole unit. Chips usually run in the 30-50 range. If you have any other questions let me know.   James   [endquote]       I replied basically asking, "How do you determine if the chip needs to be replaced?" My thought being is it just to make sure the problem never occurs again?       The gentleman that offered the $80 repair is here. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HEV43byTP9I   and www.fixmyvideogpu.com       Thanks for your reply. -- David Farber Los Osos, CA

c4urs11 <c4urs11@domain.hidden>: Jul 18 06:33PM On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 08:59:50 -0700, Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney wrote:   >> to brown both sides, etc.   >> Try posting in sci.electronics.repair   > Thanks.   Considering it is most likely manufactured in China, you may try your luck on AliExpress. Searching for "oven timer" pops up a decent lot of mechanical timer units. You'd have to check the markings on your timer for a match. And you'd need the patience for it to arrive :-)   Cheers!

Chris Jones <lugnut808@spam.yahoo.com>: Jul 16 10:40PM +1000 On 16/07/2015 01:57, Jeroni Paul wrote: > CRTs are better as far as efficiency goes in they generate the > required light only, Though I guess at least 2/3 of the electron beam power in a CRT would go into heating the shadow mask or aperture grille. (Unless it is a black and white set.)   > unlike LCD where the backlight is always full on > no matter the screen contents. As well as the picture content, I guess in LCD TVs they lose a lot of light in the polarisers, on top of what is lost in the R,G,B filters.   > processing. At the end the energy wasted to run both is similar, just > look at the rated power consumption, you may be surprised. 28" CRT > TVs take 100W typ. while similar size LCD are rated 130W typ.   You make a good point, some CRT TVs are quite efficient. Also I like the idea of having a particle accelerator in the living room.

Michael Black <et472@ncf.ca>: Jul 22 03:56PM -0400

jurb6006@gmail.com: Jul 22 02:13PM -0700 Actually it is as impractical, exactly as the conspiracy thorists state.   You got a generator, OK anyone gets the machine they canatap the power.   OK, the generator gets the power froom the universe somehow, some shit like that.   OK, who maintains the generator ? Someone has to be paid. Whom ? If I use 100 times the electricity someone else does, is it fair that I pay the same total amount ?   Even if a way was found to get around the losses and everything else, and even somehow meter it (which would be impossible to enforce) what of the environment ? You think the plants are going to grow just fine with all that power going through them all the time ?

Andre Majorel <cheney@halliburton.com>: Jul 22 05:16PM >>retrosynth.com archives, even when you already know it's there. >>Don't focus on the archives, subscribe to the lists and ask. "   > Yet another subscription. Ugh.   I'd ask the question for you but the email account I use for these is on the blink ATM. Sorry.   > I might do it anyway. Do I need to make a new email for it ? > (because of spam)   Probably. The list admins are not spammers but if you post, your address WILL end up in some spammers' list. Either lifted off some web archive which doesn't obfuscate email addresses or simply because some other subscriber's computer has been hacked.   > ? Could use very general search terms and let it give ne a > kagillion answers and then use the browser's search function > to search through that.   Yes. Nice to be able to download everything and search locally.   > And if I do end up joining, what did you mean not to post > through "nibbles" or whatever ? Do they frown on that like > some here do on gmailers ?   I think nabble.com has a web interface that you can use to post to the lists it archives. Apparently, it makes a mess of threads. As if we didn't get enough of that already with buggy, misconfigured or misused mailers.   Also, posting HTML to synth-diy won't work (thankfully).   > So I do need to expaand my rsources. thanks for the link > whether I ever really join or not. I might just learn how to > search it. If I do I'll let you know.   If you're feeling brave, you can try Bob Weigel's site http://sounddoctorin.com/. It's a mess but he has some keyboard parts for sale and synth servicing information.   Good luck.     -- André Majorel http://www.teaser.fr/~amajorel/ It is difficult to get a man to understand something, when his salary depends upon his not understanding it. -- Upton Sinclair

"Gareth Magennis" <sound.service@btconnect.com>: Jul 22 08:34PM +0100 wrote in message news:2843749a-8dd8-4907-b0d0-e2fabb68cd2f@googlegroups.com...   >"By and large they are NOT interchangeable at all. Every manufacturer pretty much uses a different design. "   Found one for a slightly different model :   https://syntaur.com/Items/4822.html   Problem is I need the 13 section one and this is the 12. they are out of stock on the 13. But I was about to cut the original anyway and move the bad one all the way to the end. I could just use any of the good ones for the end. Once back into it I will look and see if this is possible, like they don't have locating bosses or anything that would stop it or require more modification.         Also the problem is that you will find just about all of them are for a slightly different model.   Beats me how Syntaur can offer a random strip for sale without even saying what they can actually be used on. It's a bit like selling a "4 cylinder head gasket".     Whilst you're in there, you really should swap the most worn strips with the least worn ones. Sometimes a failed note is a combination of worn contact strip AND worn contact PCB. (a different contact strip also may have worn in a slightly different place)       Gareth.

wdboadway@gmail.com: Jul 22 11:00AM -0700 On Saturday, November 22, 1997 at 3:00:00 AM UTC-5, Randy B wrote: > this company? Any response would be appreciated.   > Randy Bray > Corvallis, OR.   If you take the battery out and wait a minute or so till the unit fully discharges, then put battery back in and press 0, that is a zero, and then press* that is a start, then enter code up to 12 digits and then *star, your code will be set! Have fun. I have two units that I haven't used for 15 years and just reset mine.

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