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"Gareth Magennis" <sound.service@btconnect.com>: Jul 21 07:57PM +0100 wrote in message news:f88ad735-261a-4819-a75a-9d291caa7596@googlegroups.com...   What do you do about those rubber things ? The ones under the keys on the touch responsive ones. Are they interchangable to some extent ?   And where to get them. Looking around it seems like these companies don't want to sell parts. Got a Roland up right now that only has ONE KEY not working. That is a kinda decent one. Also have a Casio with about a half dozen not working. That one is not as good I would assume but that part should not really cost all that much.         By and large they are NOT interchangeable at all. Every manufacturer pretty much uses a different design.   Occasionally you will get keyboards that share the same keyframe - Korg and Yamaha used to do this years ago with the DX7 and M1 for example. (though these do not use rubber contacts) And some more contemporary Nords use the same Fatar keyframe that some Rolands do, that DO use the rubber contacts.   But mostly, these rubber contacts are unique and a bit of a nightmare and can only be bought from the manufacturer.   Don't bother trying to repair them with the various paint kits you might find online, they are expensive and useless.       Gareth.

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jul 21 08:12PM +0100 > What do you do about those rubber things ? The ones under the keys on the touch responsive ones. Are they interchangable to some extent ?   > And where to get them. Looking around it seems like these companies don't want to sell parts. Got a Roland up right now that only has ONE KEY not working. That is a kinda decent one. Also have a Casio with about a half dozen not working. That one is not as good I would assume but that part should not really cost all that much.   All duff but one suggests an interconnect problem or some non-membrane problem. Just one or two duff keys, then a good clean will probably suffice, hair ,bugs , grime etc can easily get under a contact. Beware of dislodging any key return springs.

Andre Majorel <cheney@halliburton.com>: Jul 21 08:56PM > Also have a Casio with about a half dozen not working. That > one is not as good I would assume but that part should not > really cost all that much.   For after-touch ? If there is an answer, it's very likely that someone on one of those mailing lists has it :   http://machines.hyperreal.org/Analogue-Heaven/ Archives : http://search.retrosynth.com/ah/ http://analogue-heaven.1065350.n5.nabble.com/   http://dropmix.xs4all.nl/rick/Emusic/Synth-diy/ Archives : http://search.retrosynth.com/synth-diy/ http://dropmix.xs4all.nl/pipermail/synth-diy/   But be nice and don't post through Nabble...   -- André Majorel http://www.teaser.fr/~amajorel/ It is difficult to get a man to understand something, when his salary depends upon his not understanding it. -- Upton Sinclair

Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net>: Jul 21 10:57PM +1000 > What do you do about those rubber things ? The ones under the keys on the touch responsive ones. Are they interchangable to some extent ?   > And where to get them. Looking around it seems like these companies don't want to sell parts. Got a Roland up right now that only has ONE KEY not working. That is a kinda decent one. Also have a Casio with about a half dozen not working. That one is not as good I would assume but that part should not really cost all that much.   My experience (though not recent) is that Roland are good about spare parts. I wouldn't even both calling Casio however.

Andre Majorel <cheney@halliburton.com>: Jul 22 06:20AM > engine for one, well not so much that but how it returns the > results. Sorted by date. I didn't see any options other than > to exclude dates.   In my experience, it's hard work to find anything in the retrosynth.com archives, even when you already know it's there. Don't focus on the archives, subscribe to the lists and ask.   -- André Majorel http://www.teaser.fr/~amajorel/ It is difficult to get a man to understand something, when his salary depends upon his not understanding it. -- Upton Sinclair

mroberds@att.net: Jul 22 06:57AM > I couldn't find anything about parts at Roland's site at all, and no > phone number either.   http://www.rolandus.com/support/support_faq/ says...   --- Q. Can I order parts from Roland directly?   A. Yes! Some replacement parts and accessories are available on the Roland Online Store. If you don't see the part you need on the site, Roland has a huge inventory of parts that can be ordered directly by submitting a parts order request, or calling our Parts and Service department at 323-890-3771, Monday through Friday, 8:00am to 4:00pm Pacific Time. ---   The store is at http://shop.rolandus.com/ and the order request is at http://www.rolandus.com/support/parts_order_request/ , but the order request seems to require that you create an account (email address and password) first.   Standard disclaimers apply: I don't get money or other consideration from any companies mentioned.   Matt Roberds

"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>: Jul 21 04:51PM -0400 > > 1000 at a time, but I can't find any data to tell me what they are or an > > equivalent.   > I think what your looking at is a MOV..     You replied to a 17 year old message.

Michael Black <et472@ncf.ca>: Jul 21 04:59PM -0400

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jul 21 08:13PM +0100 > Seems to be this model: http://www.asahikeiki.co.jp/en/product/us-622/   > I'd really appreciate any advice on how to troubleshoot this. I know microwaves are dangerous. If the magnetron or high voltage capacitor is busted, I'll go buy another one because I don't want to piss around with that stuff. But I'd like to save some money and repair this one if I can.   > Thanks!   Isolate the fan and drive from a suitable bench supply or variac, if its not obviously a bearing problem

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jul 19 11:03AM -0700 On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 08:59:50 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"   >> > I would not recommend the TRO480BS. Many problems -- those I recall are door can't be adjusted to close evenly, letting too much air in/out on one side. Top and bottom heaters don't heat equally - have to turn toast over to brown both sides, etc.   >> Try posting in sci.electronics.repair   >Thanks.   The B&D TR048BS has one good feature... it's cheap. Typically about $30 when on sale. According to a few reviews that I skimmed, everything else about it is marginal. If a typical parts vendor: <http://www.ereplacementparts.com/black-and-decker-tro480bs-toaster-oven-parts-c-4167_124449_182647.html> wants $11.29 for the timer knob, I can imagine what a replacement timer would cost. Methinks buying a replacement toaster oven might be cheaper. Or, as somone else suggested, try AliExpress. This looks like a possible: <http://www.aliexpress.com/item/30-minutes-pressure-cookers-microwave-oven-timer-parts-mechanical-timer-type-250V6-5A/1573000112.html>   You didn't bother to mention whether the mechanism or the contacts failed on your existing timer. If the contacts, I suggest you take it apart and clean the contacts, which might fix the problem.   Incidentally, I use a similar B&D toaster oven for reflow soldering electronics: <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/repair/BGA%20reflow/index.html>   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

M Philbrook <jamie_ka1lpa@charter.net>: Jul 19 06:35PM -0400 In article <55abe0f8$0$3017$426a74cc@news.free.fr>, itt788@outlook.com says... > circuited. It workded normally for hours and switched off normally. When > trying to run it again some day after it won't boot up and I noticed that > the DC input ends were short circuited.   Plugged the wrong adapter into it?   Do you have others in the place that also likes to plug things into stuff like that?   It just sounds to sneaky..   Jamie

itt788 <itt788@outlook.com>: Jul 20 04:26PM Le Sun, 19 Jul 2015 17:40:08 +0000, itt788 a écrit :   > circuited. It workded normally for hours and switched off normally. When > trying to run it again some day after it won't boot up and I noticed > that the DC input ends were short circuited.   I wrote a bit too fast my message and I skipped some important information.   When I tried to boot up the computer and noticed it won't do I first checked the transformer and it showed the right voltage on the voltmeter screen. I also tried to draw some power using a fixed resistor which value was chosen to get something around 1 A and indeed the expected current values flowed within the resistor.   Then when trying to plug back it into the computer I noticed a big spark everytime I was trying to plug it in. That's when I noticed with an ohmmeter that the DC input ends were short-circuited. I also tested the battery, the voltmeter show a nice 0 Volt for each cell while it should fully charged.   I disassembled the computer and noticed that the short-circuit was caused by a MOSFET next to the DC input socket on the motherboard but after I replaced it, this new component also got killed and shorted the DC input ends.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jul 19 10:47AM -0700 >circuited. It workded normally for hours and switched off normally. When >trying to run it again some day after it won't boot up and I noticed that >the DC input ends were short circuited.   Look for a big reverse power protection diode across the DC input connector. Also, if your battery charger is of the "universal" variety, look for the power being applied backwards.   If that's not it, I suggest you disclose the maker and model number, and if it works on battery power.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

itt788 <itt788@outlook.com>: Jul 19 05:40PM I have a laptop motherboard which suddenly had its DC input ends short circuited. It workded normally for hours and switched off normally. When trying to run it again some day after it won't boot up and I noticed that the DC input ends were short circuited.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jul 19 05:27PM -0700 >> you're using to clean up your soldering. Then check the MSDS listing >> for any oils or additives that might consititute a residue.   >The ELECTRONICS CLEANER's msds lists no silicone or...but yes there is a naptha of unknown character.   What's the name or product number?   >CRC prob has the ground covered for soldering but jus' wondering you know.   I'm also wondering why it's so difficult to extract the name or product number from you.   >I'm using this CRC for lubing lugnut studs when changing tires. The solder is on a relay board for aux PITA in my E250.   If your unspecified product is a lubricant, then it has some kind of lubricant residue. Methinks that would be a bad idea for cleaning off the flux after soldering.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jul 19 09:32AM -0700 > DOES CRC leave a residue causing problems with soldering the cleaned area ?   CRC Industries is a company, not a product. <http://crcindustries.com/auto/> Kindly supply the name or number of the CRC automotive solvent that you're using to clean up your soldering. Then check the MSDS listing for any oils or additives that might consititute a residue.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

"David Farber" <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Jul 14 10:58PM -0700 This HP DV9000 boots up fine but there is no display video. I did some checking and found out this is a very common problem. http://www.pointoflaw.com/archives/2011/03/the-nvidia-clas.php The GPU overheats and then the video stops functioning. I disassembled it and found the heat sink vents clogged with dust. I used my new, economical, 852D rework station to try and reflow the solder on the GPU though I don't think it got hot enough to melt the solder. I should have tested the external video before disassembling the entire thing but now with just the power adapter and RAM plugged in, the external video is working but the laptop screen flashes dimly once and that's it. My question is, since the external video is working, (it displays "No OS found,") does that mean the GPU is working fine and there is a problem with the laptop screen? Before disassembling it I tried using the special function key to switch the display output to the external monitor without the external monitor plugged in to see if it had inadvertently been switched to the external monitor only setting. That didn't work but now I'm wondering if with all the key pressing when there was no video, perhaps I left it in the state where it's now switched to external video only. In the interim, the CMOS battery was removed and I was wondering if that would reset the video to enable the laptop display.   Let me summarize.   1. Unit came on. You could hear the Windows logon wav file. No display on screen. 2. Disassembled unit. Cleaned fan and heat sinks. Used rework station in attempt to reflow solder to GPU. 3. Reconnected the RAM and power supply with the motherboard attached to the case with a couple of screws. 4. Powered on, no laptop video but video works to external monitor. 5. Is the GPU good? 6. How to proceed next?   Thanks for your reply. -- David Farber Los Osos, CA

Ken <Ken@invalid.com>: Jul 15 08:39PM -0500 David Farber wrote: > 5. Is the GPU good? > 6. How to proceed next?   > Thanks for your reply.   I dealt with the same model computer over the Christmas holiday. It is hard for me to imagine the video chip being a problem if the external video works. That being said, you are correct about MANY such computers having a video problem. I did the blow torch/ shield from the heat method, and the computer worked for about a day. Long enough to take all the data off the hard drive for the owner.   To tell you the truth, I would not put too much labor into this model computer. Especially with it's history. You could be making a career choice.

"David Farber" <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Jul 16 03:30PM -0700 Ken wrote:   > To tell you the truth, I would not put too much labor into this model > computer. Especially with it's history. You could be making a career > choice.   Hi Ken,   For $80 I can send the motherboard in to have the GPU reflowed and have a modified heat sink installed to keep it from overheating again. It comes with a 60 day warranty. The gentleman that fixes it says he's had a very high success rate and if he can't fix it, there's no charge and free return shipping. I'm curious enough to see if that will fix it for good. If this all works out, I'll let you know.   Thanks for your reply. -- David Farber Los Osos, CA

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jul 16 07:22PM -0700 On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 15:30:30 -0700, "David Farber" >high success rate and if he can't fix it, there's no charge and free return >shipping. I'm curious enough to see if that will fix it for good. If this >all works out, I'll let you know.   I also send out the boards for repair. I have the same hot air SMT desolding station, but have had lousy luck with reflowing the video chips. Of the various HP and Dell laptops with the alleged Nvidia problem, I've only successfully (long term) repaired 2 out of 7 attempts. The big problem is that I can't easily operate the motherboard outside of the case to see if I've succeeded. If I wanted to continue doing these repairs, I would need to build a fixture.   There are three types of repairs for this problem. The cheap and easy fix is to reflow the BGA video chip and hope that it hold. It usually will if you don't bend the motherboard when you reinstall it. That's probably why both yours and my reflow jobs were failing after a few days. The not so cheap solution is to remove the chip, clean up the pads, and reflow solder a new chip in it's place. That's much more work, more expensive, but far more reliable. There are also those that will remove the chip, clean off both the chip and the PCB, and reball the motherboard. I've only had one of those done, and it worked just fine, proving that there's probably nothing wrong with the Nvidia video chips. It's possible that the vendors that replace the chips are using recycled chips in this manner.   Some people have made a business out of replacing the chips, so prices have fallen. <http://www.ebay.com/itm/230491379295>   Ask your vendor if they replace and/or reball the video chip. If so, they're probably ok. If they only reflow the existing chip with a heat gun or oven, you may have problems.   Incidentally, I had no luck when I tried to reflow the motherboard in a toast oven. I only did one and it was totally dead when I was done. Oops. However, these JetDirect cards worked 100%. However, LJ2300 controller cards had only one success out of three: <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/repair/BGA%20reflow/>     -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jul 17 05:27PM -0700 On Fri, 17 Jul 2015 08:55:41 -0700, "David Farber" >the chip.   >It turns out the guy that I was going to send my board to for an $80 repair >needs the entire laptop so I nixed that idea.   That's odd. In order to reflow or replace the video chip, he would need to remove the motherboard from the case. I guess he wants the whole machine so he can check the results of his work. I don't know if that's a good or bad thing. Anyway, it takes me about 30 minutes to get to the point where I can reflow the board, and about 45-60 minutes to put it back together sufficiently to test the laptop. All that for $80 is a bargain.   This one looks interesting: <http://www.ebay.com/itm/230491379295> On his workorder form, there's a check box for: [ ] Check box if ok to attempt Reball if reflow fails **If successful I will create a invoice thru paypal and send to your email for $30 which brings the price up to $70. He has a different listing for fixing the entire laptop for $120. <http://www.ebay.com/itm/230685305682>     -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jul 20 10:07AM +0100 Model number HD604 is the only label, and no identifier inside. I'm modifying the lens mount to be able to focus it to less than the made 12 foot minimum proj-screen distance. It has S-vid, SVGA, 2x HDMI inputs and a USB socket. Would anyone know if the USB can be used from a PC as a video feed also (OSD of sources is ambiguous) and if so, would the pc-driver have to be specific to this unknown make/model of projector or some generic driver.

Mike Tomlinson <mike@jasper.org.uk>: Jul 20 12:27PM +0100 En el artículo <moidmh$kou$1@dont-email.me>, N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk> escribió:   >Would anyone know if the USB can be used from a >PC as a video feed also   I would have thought that very unlikely, it's more likely to allow a memory stick or external hard disc to be connected to view photos or to play .mp3 music/.mp4 videos.   -- (\_/) (='.'=) (")_(")

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jul 20 12:52PM +0100 On 20/07/2015 12:27, Mike Tomlinson wrote:   > I would have thought that very unlikely, it's more likely to allow a > memory stick or external hard disc to be connected to view photos or to > play .mp3 music/.mp4 videos.   That sounds likely, so acting like a digital picture frame. The projector exterior looks like this http://www.led-projectors.co.uk/shop/used-led-504/ HD 504, HD probably meaning the weasel phrase HD compatible for this one also. They've used a first generation, discharge lamp type injection moulder for the casing as there is the protruding section for the removable cover for the discharge lamp of Epson? earlier projectors, now irrelevantly protruding below the casing and moulded as one piece now. Otherwise like the OHP converter to video , large 4x6 inch or so LCD and large optics to allow for distributed LED lamp source. I like the,KISS, keystone adjuster, simply pivots a mirror directly by turning the knob on the case side

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jul 20 05:13PM +0100 Looks as though OSD source select labelled DTV/Card is the USB source so presumably USB digital TV or card=thumbstick? Anyway got the minimum focus adjustment range down from 3.1m to 1.3m , retaining whatever the maximum was.

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