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N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jul 14 02:05PM +0100 > some help fixing this as I really like the features and extra > inputs these older units have compared to today's.   > Why does the same thing keep quitting on this model?   Same central speaker with some intermittent short on the VC ?

Chuck <chuck@mydeja.net>: Jul 15 08:20AM -0500 On Tue, 14 Jul 2015 05:20:37 -0700 (PDT), thekmanrocks@gmail.com wrote:   >some help fixing this as I really like the features and extra >inputs these older units have compared to today's.   >Why does the same thing keep quitting on this model?     See if you can see any small black plastic rectangles on the amp or speaker terminal board (relays). Tap on them with a plastic or wood stick. If the center channel comes back, replace the relay or resolder the connections to it if they look bad.   --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

"Mark Zacharias" <mark_zacharias@labolgcbs.net>: Jul 16 07:38AM -0500 "Chuck" <chuck@mydeja.net> wrote in message news:k3ncqatvmhho8db2sos0rd2ditd6qf0l7t@4ax.com...   > --- > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. > https://www.avast.com/antivirus   I've worked on analog receivers almost every day for 33 years. While I cannot diagnose via usenet, if there IS a history of these blowing the center channel, I would look very closely at solder connections relating to the bias transistor. This is the type of thing that might cause such a history on a given model type.   The advice given on the relay is good if the channel volume is merely down or especially if the volume is intermittent and comes back with an increase of the volume control setting or as he said with tapping the relay body.   Mark Z.

"Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney" <Snuffy-Hub-Cap@Livebait-McKinney.com>: Jul 14 09:34PM -0700 "Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" <Snuffy-Hub-Cap@Livebait-McKinney.com> wrote in message news:hI6dneJjLo7dvwHInZ2dnUU7-TmdnZ2d@earthlink.com... I have a analog TV that is still working fine and no plans to replace it. Over time, it has developed an audio hum - I'm guessing it's 60 Hz. When the picture is dark, the hum is nearly gone. The brighter the picture, the louder it is. I'm guessing some kind of filter on the speaker connections would do it, maybe something as simple as connecting a capacitor circuit.... But, as I ain't the sharpest feller with audio electronics, I thought I better ask the genius pool here!   First I thought was a power cord was near the antenna cable, but that doesn't seem to be the problem.   The key word in all this is "cheap". Anything over $10 is way out of line.   Snuffy   ===   Thanks for all the good info. If I had a place to work, I would take a look, but the most practical for this one is to get a replacement set, new or used.   I use a CRT monitor on one of the computers here and LCD displays can't compare with his colors. But the power cost is definitely higher -- plus, more importantly during the summer - it heats up the room...

"Ralph Mowery" <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Jul 15 10:34AM -0400 "Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" <Snuffy-Hub-Cap@Livebait-McKinney.com> wrote in message news:hI6dneJjLo7dvwHInZ2dnUU7-TmdnZ2d@earthlink.com...   >First I thought was a power cord was near the antenna cable, but that >doesn't seem to be the problem.   >The key word in all this is "cheap". Anything over $10 is way out of line.   Look on Facebook or Craigs list for a free TV. They are always giving those old things away. The power cord could be wrapped around the antenna and not cause hum. Probably a filter capacitor needs replacing. If you had some on hand, open the TV up and just hold the leads of the new one across the capacitors and find the one where the hum quits .

Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Jul 14 09:04PM On Tue, 14 Jul 2015 12:44:05 -0700, jurb6006 wrote:     > Like BMW or someone came out with a head design for a car engine - > tricellular combustion chanber. Something likt that. Took three words in > English to describe, German can do it in one. I like that.   Actually, the entire German language vocabulary is significantly smaller than the English one. Germans don't have specific words for things like you assume they do; they simply run separate words together by removing the spaces in between, so by way of example in English, you would have the warning sign: "treebranchfallingoffdanger" in public parks and such like. This can make for some incredibly long and intimidating looking words to foreigners who are unfamiliar with the practice.

c4urs11 <c4urs11@domain.hidden>: Jul 14 09:13PM On Tue, 14 Jul 2015 21:04:08 +0000, Cursitor Doom wrote:   > the warning sign: "treebranchfallingoffdanger" in public parks and such > like. This can make for some incredibly long and intimidating looking > words to foreigners who are unfamiliar with the practice.   Like Rindfleischetikettierungsüberwachungsaufgabenübertragungsgesetz?   Cheers!

Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Jul 14 09:40PM On Tue, 14 Jul 2015 21:13:23 +0000, c4urs11 wrote:   > Like Rindfleischetikettierungsüberwachungsaufgabenübertragungsgesetz?   > Cheers!   Genau! ;-)

Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net>: Jul 15 03:15AM +1000 > get it to run in Firefox right so it is saved in MHT format, which > means my copy will only open in IE. You might have different results, > or as they say YMMV.   Glad you like it. I enjoyed writing it. I'm surprised it doesn't work in your Firefox though - it does for me, both from the web and from the saved files. Are you sure you saved it correctly?   Clifford Heath.

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Jul 14 09:24PM -0700 On 07/14/2015 2:40 PM, Cursitor Doom wrote:   >> Like Rindfleischetikettierungsüberwachungsaufgabenübertragungsgesetz?   >> Cheers!   > Genau! ;-)   Ah, but it seems that word (Rind...) no longer exists...   http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/europe/germany/10095976/Germany-drops-its-longest-word-Rindfleischeti....html   John :-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jul 15 08:03AM +0100 On 15/07/2015 05:24, John Robertson wrote:   > Ah, but it seems that word (Rind...) no longer exists...   > http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/europe/germany/10095976/Germany-drops-its-longest-word-Rindfleischeti....html   > John :-#)#   And the Welsh place name Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwyll-llantysiliogogogoch was artificially composed purely as a tourist trap. I heard the english word antisdisestablishmentarianism validly used in a documentary a month back

mroberds@att.net: Jul 19 10:15PM > I hooked up the inverter directly to the car battery in the car.   What did the wiring from the inverter to the car battery look like? If it involved either a cigarette lighter plug or alligator clips, improving that connection will help a little. Ideally you would have fairly thick cables (8 AWG or thicker), as short as possible, running from the inverter to the battery terminals. Remember, if the inverter is putting out the full 500 W, it will be drawing around 42 amps from the battery.   > If the car wasn't running the entire time, the items connected to the > inverter would start flickering on and off after a period of time.   This was probably the low-voltage shutdown in the inverter trying to operate. Most of them will shut off the AC output when the DC input voltage gets too low, so as to avoid running the battery down too far. Usually this isn't adjustable, but on some inverters it might be... check the manual if you have one.   > There certainly wasn't a lot of wattage being drawn.... the TV uses > like 100 watts   Have you measured it or looked at the nameplate? This is from 2009 http://www.enerank.com/tv-power-consumption-energy-efficiency-46-inches.php but 46" TVs drew from 107-310 W.   > with the lights maybe 10 watts each, and there were 2.   A 60 W equivalent CFL is usually 13 or 14 W. If you're playing games like this, a Kill-a-Watt or similar portable watt-hour meter is a good tool. http://www.p3international.com/products/p4400.html   Standard disclaimers apply: I don't get money or other consideration from any companies mentioned.   Matt Roberds

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