Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 20 updates in 7 topics

Nil <rednoise9@REMOVETHIScomcast.net>: Sep 04 02:44PM -0400

On 04 Sep 2015, Ewald Böhm <ewvesb@gilltaylor.ca> wrote in
alt.home.repair:
 
> Is this correct yet?
 
> 1. You hook up this "smart TV" to the power but to no other wires.
 
Not necessarily. If you have a TV feed from an antenna or cable
service, you hook that up, too. The "Smart" features are internet only,
so you need an internet connection to use them. You could hook that
part of the TV to your home router with a cable or wirelessly.
 
> 2. The WiFi connects to your router, so the TV is "on the net".
 
Yes.
 
> 3. The TV has built-in apps to get movies on Youtube, Hulu,
> Netflix.
 
Yes.
 
> 4. Some TVs have a web browser - but they're so slow as
> to be useless.
 
Well, mine is. It displays content slowly (I think that there isn't
much memory or storage in the TV for buffering, plus the browser itself
may be a Java app, which is inherently slow to start up) but the worst
thing about it is that you have to navigate using your TV remote. You
may be able to hook up a computer keyboard, which would help.
 
> 5. Some have a DirectTV (coax wired?) input in the back of the TV?
 
There's a coax input on mine, but I don't know anything about DirectTV.
 
> 6. Some TVs have built-in games.
 
Yes. There are "apps" included with the Smart TV software, analogous to
the apps on your smart phone. The apps on my Samsung TV can be updated
from them. You can purchase others, I think.
 
> 7. You can't *add* anything; it's all built in to the TV OS.
 
The OS and apps may be updateable from the manufacturer.
 
> Is that the sum total of the advantages of WiFi on a TV?
 
There may be others. Actually, if I knew then what I know now, I'd get
a dumb TV and add one of those add-on boxes like Chromecast or whatever
to get the content I use. Most of the apps on my Samsung suck royally.
I only use a couple of them.
dold@20.usenet.us.com: Sep 04 07:24PM

> Is that the sum total of the advantages of WiFi on a TV?
 
That's about it. I think my Sharp TV is Android.
Slow, clunky. Even the apps that work are inferior to what you would have
on a phone/tablet/PC.
 
I use the "MiraCast" option to cast my Android tablet to the scrren quite
often, so I can see my cat videos from YouTube in better quality.
 
--
Clarence A Dold - Santa Rosa, CA, USA GPS: 38.47,-122.65
micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Sep 04 06:03PM -0400

In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 4 Sep 2015 07:47:23 -0500, amdx
>>> Samsung TV. It's deadly slow slow slow, and navigation with the TV
 
>> Okay, I can remember Samsung. Thanks.
 
> I have a Sony, and it's slow too!
 
Okay. I can remember that too. But I'm getting discouraged.
 
I think I should follow Mark Lloyd's advice in next thread about using
wires when one can.
 
So I think I'll just get a USB active extension cord and a
keyboard/mouse to plug into it;, and an AV balun with cat6 to connect
the computer to the DVDR
 
 
 
--
 
Stumpy Strumpet
the bimbus
for dogcatcher
Ewald Böhm <ewvesb@gilltaylor.ca>: Sep 05 04:43AM

On Fri, 04 Sep 2015 18:03:13 -0400, micky wrote:
 
> So I think I'll just get a USB active extension cord and a
> keyboard/mouse to plug into it
 
Do I understand the situation correctly that the WiFi enabled TVs are dog
slow, for example, at browsing, because of two fundamental flaws?
 
1. The CPUs are slow, and,
2. Using a remote to type URLs is slow.
 
You can't fix the CPU processing power.
But, can you simply add a standard bluetooth keyboard?
Ewald Böhm <ewvesb@gilltaylor.ca>: Sep 05 04:44AM

On Fri, 04 Sep 2015 14:44:21 -0400, Nil wrote:
 
> be a Java app, which is inherently slow to start up) but the worst thing
> about it is that you have to navigate using your TV remote. You may be
> able to hook up a computer keyboard, which would help.
 
Can't you just connect any old bluetooth keyboard to solve that problem?
Tony Hwang <dragon40@shaw.ca>: Sep 04 11:07PM -0600

Ewald Böhm wrote:
> 2. Using a remote to type URLs is slow.
 
> You can't fix the CPU processing power.
> But, can you simply add a standard bluetooth keyboard?
 
Don't think blue tooth is not on the TV. I have an AMD A10 laptop
dedicated as HTPC. Laptop connects to AC2600 router on 5GHz. My down
load speed is 50mbps solid. No problem even real time streaming 1080P,4K
UHD, 3D videos. Native 4K material is rare but A/V receiver upscale to
4K on 4K 60" set. Our HT is 7.1 set up. Biggest I could afford for the
family room space. For storage I have small 4 bay Synology NAS with
4x2TB WD Red drives.(not powerful enough for some codec)
micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Sep 05 01:16AM -0400

In sci.electronics.repair, on Sat, 5 Sep 2015 04:43:38 +0000 (UTC),
 
>> So I think I'll just get a USB active extension cord and a
>> keyboard/mouse to plug into it
 
>Do I understand the situation correctly that the WiFi enabled TVs are dog
 
I don't have a new tv.
 
>2. Using a remote to type URLs is slow.
 
>You can't fix the CPU processing power.
>But, can you simply add a standard bluetooth keyboard?
 
Thanks but won't work for me. You've come in in the middle of the
story, Not worth repeating it.
Tony Hwang <dragon40@shaw.ca>: Sep 05 10:10AM -0600

> on a phone/tablet/PC.
 
> I use the "MiraCast" option to cast my Android tablet to the scrren quite
> often, so I can see my cat videos from YouTube in better quality.
 
THat probably is a very good and simple idea. Connecting laptop or
tablet to use as primary display and big creen TV set as a duplicate
display.
Tony Hwang <dragon40@shaw.ca>: Sep 05 10:20AM -0600

micky wrote:
>> But, can you simply add a standard bluetooth keyboard?
 
> Thanks but won't work for me. You've come in in the middle of the
> story, Not worth repeating it.
 
Micky, B4 asking whole bunch of questions, you ought to search for your
answers on the 'net. Specially Youtube gives lots of visual demos. Be
specific when you have questions. Like telling us what you have and what
you are trying to do and what problem you are running into or something
you don't understand. As far as TV set goes, we're in HDTV era and HDMI
cable takes care of a/v hook ups. When you mention WiFi, then do you at
least have a router for your home network in your home?
M.Joshi <M.Joshi@eternal-september.org>: Sep 05 02:14PM

I dusted off a Panasonic NV-SD260B VHS recorder yeterday to archive some
old tapes. It worked for a while, but no longer loads any tapes? No matter
how far I push the tape in, it won't load it into the mechanism.
 
I have taken the cover of the unit off but can't see anything obvious?
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Sep 05 03:19PM +0100

On 05/09/2015 15:14, M.Joshi wrote:
> old tapes. It worked for a while, but no longer loads any tapes? No
> matter how far I push the tape in, it won't load it into the mechanism.
 
> I have taken the cover of the unit off but can't see anything obvious?
 
perished rubber drive band
"Dave M" <dgminala4444@mediacombb.net>: Sep 05 09:47AM -0500

Your VCR needs a belt job. When these things sit idle for long period of
time, the belts that drive the loading deck and tape transport mechanism
stretch and become too loose to make the mechanical stuff work.
 
Don't know how much a belt job would cost now, but when my daughter ran a TV
repair shop (90s era), they charged about $50 plus the cost of the belt kit.
If you're mechanically inclined, you can do it yourself if you can find the
proper belt kit. Here are some links to vendors that I have bought TV, VCR,
and other A/V parts from:
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/
http://www.matelectronics.com/
http://www.smcelectronics.com/
http://www.parts-express.com/
http://www.electronix.com/
http://www.elexp.com/
http://www.studiosoundelectronics.com/
 
You sould also search Google for VCR Belt Kit NV-SD260B and see what turns
up. Good luck with the repair. VCRs are long obsolete and parts are
getting scarce.
 
Dave M
 
 
 
 
M.Joshi wrote:
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Sep 05 10:53AM +0100

On 04/09/2015 16:36, N_Cook wrote:
> No sound output , no midi control from external feed, no switch panel
> response and just showing semi-random flashing of "r" of 2 segments in
> one display
 
Looks as though owner gave me the wrong Roland ps, 9V dc 2.4W, specs of
proper one 9V 11W, I thought it seemed small although no speakers in
this keyboard. Perhaps flashing r just means insufficient power, will
check the NEC 24A05 and TA7807S of the ps section
"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com>: Sep 05 01:27AM +0100

"Phil Allison" <pallison49@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:4b24da3b-9a5c-490a-8087-428f68d095ef@googlegroups.com...
> 800VA = 1.4 ohms & 4%
> 1000VA = 1.1 ohms & 4%
 
> ... Phil
 
That's an interesting observation, Phil. I will keep that noted, as it's
potentially a good 'reverse lookup' for determining if a tranny has shorted
turns on its primary, if you know its VA rating
 
Arfa
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Sep 05 12:37AM -0700

Arfa Daily wrote:
 
> That's an interesting observation, Phil. I will keep that noted, as it's
> potentially a good 'reverse lookup' for determining if a tranny has shorted
> turns on its primary, if you know its VA rating
 
 
** That is a big "if" - cos with transformers fitted to commercial products it is not published.
 
I keep an index book with primary ohm values for commonly seen gear, also the mains rms current draw at idle, with standby off and on - if it exists.
 
Egs:
 
Marshall JTM60; 6.5ohms (250VA) 0.16A, 0.44A
 
Marshall VS100; 10.2ohms (175VA) .17A
 
Phase Linear 400; 1.9ohms (600VA) .17A
 
Roland Cube 60; 12ohms (160VA) .1A
 
 
 
.... Phil
"David Farber" <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Sep 04 01:12PM -0700

Ralph Mowery wrote:
> watt bulb to about 1/2 amp. At low current the bulb is like a very
> low resistance and as more current is drawn and the bulb lights up it
> acts like a higher resistance.
 
I was thinking of connecting the bulb without a load just to make sure there
were no direct shorts before I plugged it in the very first time, not to use
it like that in a real-world situation.
 
Thanks for your reply.
--
David Farber
Los Osos, CA
"David Farber" <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Sep 04 01:23PM -0700

Phil Allison wrote:
> of thousands of amps without arcing - microwave ovens and Fluke DMMs
> use them, but not small appliances.
 
> ... Phil
 
Wouldn't all of the current have to go through the shorted diodes (1N4007)
and shouldn't they show some sign of physical destruction? Other than being
electrically shorted, they were physically unscathed.
 
Thanks for your reply.
--
David Farber
Los Osos, CA
whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Sep 04 08:06PM -0700

On Friday, September 4, 2015 at 1:24:29 PM UTC-7, David Farber wrote:
 
> Wouldn't all of the current have to go through the shorted diodes (1N4007)
> and shouldn't they show some sign of physical destruction? Other than being
> electrically shorted, they were physically unscathed.
 
If a diode fails short circuit, it can be lower resistance than associated wiring
or fuses (i.e. it cooks everything else in the circuit, but stays cool).
Mark Lloyd <not@mail.invalid>: Sep 04 11:59AM -0500

On 09/03/2015 11:53 PM, Ewald Böhm wrote:
 
> You have to realize what Jeff is trying to tell you, which is that any
> common name for the ESSID has *already* been hashed.
 
> In that case, WPA2/PSK is worthless.
 
WPA2/PSK is one thing that is needed. Another is a better ESSID.
 
 
--
112 days until the winter celebration (Friday December 25, 2015 for 1
day).
 
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us/
 
"He's a born-again Christian. The trouble is, he suffered brain damage
during rebirth."
Mark Lloyd <not@mail.invalid>: Sep 04 11:55AM -0500

On 09/03/2015 07:18 PM, micky wrote:
 
> Well 2 more questions:
 
> The descriptions keep talking about HDTV. One doesn't need HD does he?
> It will output to SD also?
 
Make sure the box you get has SD output. There are converters (HD to SD)
but they can be expensive.
 
> with wireless B/G? Or do I have to buy a new router with N?
> Remember, I don't have HiDef, and I don't expect to get it. If I buy
> with AC, will it still suppport B/G, which all my other devices are?
 
AC uses a different frequency than B/G, however all the AC devices 've
seen support both frequencies. AFAIK N can use either frequency.
 
Always consider a WIRED connection first. It's simpler and more
reliable, as well as more secure.
 
--
112 days until the winter celebration (Friday December 25, 2015 for 1
day).
 
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us/
 
"He's a born-again Christian. The trouble is, he suffered brain damage
during rebirth."
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