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amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: Sep 05 12:12PM -0500 On 9/4/2015 5:03 PM, micky wrote:   > Okay. I can remember that too. But I'm getting discouraged.   > I think I should follow Mark Lloyd's advice in next thread about using > wires when one can.   Nothing to do with wires, just turning on the tv to watch, it takes to to boot, and you must wait in order to change the channel. Mikek before

Ewald Böhm <ewvesb@gilltaylor.ca>: Sep 05 07:08PM On Thu, 03 Sep 2015 10:21:58 -0400, Ralph Mowery wrote:   > if you have say Direct TV you can get movies and other shows on demand > bystreaming off the internet.   I don't have direct tv. My router does not have a coax input.   I thought that was a coax cable coming out of all those direct tv antennas I see on houses.   If the output of Direct TV is coax, how does that coax get "into" your network?   It can't go through the router. How does it get into your router without a coax connector on the router?

Ewald Böhm <ewvesb@gilltaylor.ca>: Sep 05 07:10PM On Thu, 03 Sep 2015 10:49:10 -0400, gfretwell wrote:   > My Samsung will take a USB mouse/keyboard but it is pretty clunky > searching the web.   I guess a USB wired mouse and keyboard would be useful.   Do most of these WiFi TVs have the ability to accept a typical USB mouse and keyboard?

Ewald Böhm <ewvesb@gilltaylor.ca>: Sep 05 07:12PM On Thu, 03 Sep 2015 18:36:31 -0400, Nil wrote:   > and I haven't bothered to try to troubleshoot it, since it's nothing I'm > interested in using. If I want to browse the web I'll just use one of > the several other computer devices in the house.   I went over to a friend's house who had a new samsung wifi tv and the browsing was so slow that I'd say it's unusable for two reasons: 1. Typing the URL with the remote was punitive, and, 2. Once you had the URL, the time to load was interminable.   This might just be a bad Samsung TV, but, wow. It's great for checkboxes but it doesn't work in real time.

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Sep 05 03:16PM -0400 In sci.electronics.repair, on Sat, 5 Sep 2015 12:12:45 -0500, amdx >and you must wait in order to change the channel. > Mikek >before   That's bad too. I hate my smart phone because it takes so long to turn on, and 5 steps to turn off. The "bar" phone I used to use turned on or off in a second or two.   My Philips DVDR, which does it's main job very well but has a bunch of design flaws, takes noticeably longer to change channels than does the Zenith set-top box.

Ewald Böhm <ewvesb@gilltaylor.ca>: Sep 05 07:20PM On Thu, 03 Sep 2015 19:40:40 -0700, Ameri-Clean wrote:   > I recently got a smart TV then got a message from my provider (DIRECTV) > that I need to connect to the internet.   The output from the Direct TV is a coax cable, right? How does that coax cable connect to your router?

Nil <rednoise9@REMOVETHIScomcast.net>: Sep 05 03:52PM -0400 On 05 Sep 2015, Ewald Böhm <ewvesb@gilltaylor.ca> wrote in alt.home.repair:   > The output from the Direct TV is a coax cable, right? > How does that coax cable connect to your router?   It doesn't. The TV network connection is via the common wireless or ethernet cable.

Ewald Böhm <ewvesb@gilltaylor.ca>: Sep 06 02:48AM On Sat, 05 Sep 2015 15:52:39 -0400, Nil wrote:   > It doesn't. The TV network connection is via the common wireless or > ethernet cable.   So, help me here.   Let's say the DirectTV dish is on the roof, and it has a coax cable that goes down the side of the house, through a wall, to a wall plate.   From that wall plate, how does "it" (i.e., the tv signal) get on my "network"?   You said the tv signal gets into the network via either the wireless connection or through the wired ethernet (cat5) cable.   But, how does that coax cable tv signal get to either one of those (i.e., how does the coax connect to the wifi or the ethernet cable)?

Ewald Böhm <ewvesb@gilltaylor.ca>: Sep 06 02:49AM On Sat, 05 Sep 2015 17:57:53 -0500, Charlie Hoffpauir wrote:   > my home network into. I think some of the newer boxes also have wireless > capability, or maybe they provide a separate device to connect > wirelessly.   Oh. That explains it!   So, the coax cable that comes out of the dish on the roof then goes into a "box" which has, as outputs, either coax or RJ45 or a wifi antenna?   Is that correct?

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Sep 06 02:46AM -0700 On Saturday, September 5, 2015 at 7:49:36 PM UTC-7, Ewald Böhm wrote: > > capability,   > So, the coax cable that comes out of the dish on the roof then goes into > a "box" which has, as outputs, either coax or RJ45 or a wifi antenna?   There are 'cable' systems that provide Ethernet I/O, and satellite systems that provide an Ethernet socket (on older ones, telephone modem), which is intended for Internet connection through your OTHER network services. Satellite receivers rarely include any transmit-back-to-the-satellite provisions, meaning they don't support full internet connection.   DirecTV says "we bundle with top internet providers", because the internet service is distinct from the satellite receiver of television programming.

DaveC <not@home.cow>: Sep 05 01:28PM -0700 Help with identifying a TO-92 transistor?(at least I think it's a transistor…)   Pretty vanilla-looking with National Semi logo. Marked:   NS 444 ST 13903   (The "NS" is the logo.)   Not enough 4's to make up a standard 2N number, and 13903 looks like a date code?   Ideas?   Thanks,

DaveC <not@home.cow>: Sep 05 02:18PM -0700 > Help with identifying a TO-92 transistor?   A photo:   http://i.imgur.com/z78xG5D.jpg

"Tim Williams" <tmoranwms@charter.net>: Sep 05 08:52PM -0500 How's it measure?   (Or if it's dead, is there another one probably working that you can test?)   Tim   -- Seven Transistor Labs Electrical Engineering Consultation Website: http://seventransistorlabs.com   "DaveC" <not@home.cow> wrote in message news:0001HW.1B9B87FD00098A2611E4F83CF@news.eternal-september.org...

DaveC <not@home.cow>: Sep 05 09:40PM -0700 > How's it measure?   > (Or if it's dead, is there another one probably working that you can test?)   > Tim   Dead. Other with identical markings measure as NPN. What else to determine from measurements?   Thanks.

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Sep 05 09:52PM -0700 On 09/05/2015 2:18 PM, Dave C wrote: >> Help with identifying a TO-92 transistor?   > A photo:   > http://i.imgur.com/z78xG5D.jpg   Looks like a house number - made by National of course. House numbers can sometimes cross reference to other parts if you can find a master list.   How made the item in question.   John :-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

DaveC <not@home.cow>: Sep 05 11:05PM -0700 > [Who] made the item in question. [?] > John :-#)# An American offset printing equipment company. It's a paper/envelope feeder for a small offset presses. Extinct company.   I can say that the bandwidth requirement of the circuit is very small—DC-10 KHz—and low current. Don't know about gain.   Thanks.

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Sep 06 07:46AM +0100 On 05/09/2015 21:28, DaveC wrote: > code?   > Ideas?   > Thanks,   Or maker ST and date code for 1994 or 2004 or whatever goes with NS as plant/batch code for a particular decade

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Sep 06 12:05AM -0700 On 09/05/2015 11:05 PM, DaveC wrote:   > I can say that the bandwidth requirement of the circuit is very small—DC-10 > KHz—and low current. Don't know about gain.   > Thanks.   There are pretty simple circuit diagrams out there to measure gain if you have more transistors with the same markings.   One example:   http://electriciantraining.tpub.com/14179/css/14179_111.htm   The only other criteria are breakdown voltage and current. If it only drives other transistors and resistors to Vcc are over around 2K then it is likely 100ma or less.   If you know the Vcc you know the minimum breakdown voltage unless it is being used to control solenoids that have their own B+ source, then that voltage is your absolute minimum (times at least 2).   John :-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

piglet <erichpwagner@hotmail.com>: Sep 06 08:11AM +0100 On 06/09/2015 07:05, DaveC wrote: > I can say that the bandwidth requirement of the circuit is very small—DC-10 > KHz—and low current. Don't know about gain.   > Thanks.   You could try a 2N3904 or other jelly bean type and see if the thing then works?   piglet

jango2 <crow_slapper@yahoo.co.uk>: Sep 05 10:49PM -0700 The unit would power up (green l.e.d.) with no backlight and then run into SOS with a 2 red l.e.d. blink pattern. I noticed the main electrolytic filter (270uF 450V) in the PS was bulging. Replaced and it worked. Case archived.

Ewald Böhm <ewvesb@gilltaylor.ca>: Sep 06 02:50AM On Fri, 04 Sep 2015 11:59:08 -0500, Mark Lloyd wrote:   > WPA2/PSK is one thing that is needed. Another is a better ESSID.   You need both. One without the other is worthless.

"Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com>: Sep 05 07:01PM +0100 "M.Joshi" <M.Joshi@eternal-september.org> wrote in message news:4f7214e111488d2b604a399ff55@news.eternal-september.org... > old tapes. It worked for a while, but no longer loads any tapes? No matter > how far I push the tape in, it won't load it into the mechanism.   > I have taken the cover of the unit off but can't see anything obvious?   The old favourite was the sensor bulb blown - its a thin vertical post in the middle of the deck that pokes up a hole in the bottom of the cassette.   Later models used an IR LED - AFAIK: these never caused problems, so might be a belt job as others have suggested.

M.Joshi <M.Joshi@eternal-september.org>: Sep 05 06:05PM Thanks for the replies.   Is there anywhere online I can download a service manual for this? Haven't managed to find a belt/kit yet.

M.Joshi <M.Joshi@eternal-september.org>: Sep 05 06:09PM Hello Ian,   I did wonder if it was the tape sensor post - I have had to change the lamps in the past on another unit.   However, I thought that was just to sense tape end? They appear to be the IR type. The tape isn't being lowered into the mechanism so I guess it probably is a snapped belt?

"Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com>: Sep 05 07:20PM +0100 "M.Joshi" <M.Joshi@eternal-september.org> wrote in message news:4f7214e111528d2b6257b12887f@news.eternal-september.org...   > However, I thought that was just to sense tape end? They appear to be the > IR type. The tape isn't being lowered into the mechanism so I guess it > probably is a snapped belt?   Can't remember ever seeing a snapped belt - they do go limp and floppy sometimes.   The synthetic rubber ones firm up with a short squirt in the microwave - the natural rubber ones blister and shrivel up!

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