Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 9 updates in 5 topics

mike <ham789@netzero.net>: Oct 31 01:33AM -0700

BIOS Recovery Question
 
I bought an acer laptop of unknown history.
Acer E1-510-4828
Has no HD.
Shipped with windows 8.1
Apparently UEFI BIOS.
4GB PC3L ram.
 
I put a linux boot CD in it and applied power.
Draws 25W. Assume it's charging the battery, but the
charge indicator is not lit. The battery has gone from
not working to running the laptop, so looks like it's
actually charging.
 
Press the power button.
Fans run
CD spins up
No light on the screen.
Nothing on the VGA external monitor
Pressing the function F5/F6 keys does nothing.
Runs for about 5 seconds and restarts over and over.
 
If I remove the RAM, it powers up and the fans run
continuously.
Replacing the RAM doesn't help.
 
My conclusion is that the system is trying to run,
but the BIOS is borked.
 
I had the same system with a Gateway desktop with an
Acer board. I could get into the BIOS.
I installed win 8.1.
Win 8.1 seemed to install and run fine, but the
first reboot didn't.
Same symptom as above. Nothing on screen.
Can't enter bios. reboot loop.
 
Almost all the google hits about bios tell you how to
update/reinstall/recover using methods that require the system
to at least boot into bios.
 
I have two UEFI systems and both are borked.
 
I did find some info about recovery mode or crisis mode
or insyde, but they're vague about exactly what to do.
Vendors are vague about which systems support USB
BIOS recovery.
 
I did try recovery via flash drive and some multiple
keypresses on the Gateway with no success.
Couldn't even get the lights on the flash drive to blink.
Symptoms suggest the boot block is trashed.
 
There are a LOT of variables on the bios file formats
and file names and keypresses required to initiate
the USB recovery process.
 
Since I can't see what I have, I'm lost.
Any ideas on where to go from here?
c4urs11 <c4urs11@domain.hidden>: Oct 31 09:18AM

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 01:33:04 -0700, mike wrote:
 
> the USB recovery process.
 
> Since I can't see what I have, I'm lost.
> Any ideas on where to go from here?
 
Reflash the BIOS off-board?
 
Cheers!
Ken <Ken@invalid.com>: Oct 31 07:02AM -0500

mike wrote:
> charge indicator is not lit. The battery has gone from
> not working to running the laptop, so looks like it's
> actually charging.
 
Before I would assume the bios is hosed, I would try another A/C adapter
on the computer. If the adapter does not come up fast enough with
enough current, the laptop will not boot or stay turned on. I have seen
this on laptops.
 
It seems that you should get something on the screen or VGA output if
the processor is starting. Some computers have problems starting with a
low CMOS battery, I would also check its voltage. Also check with
different RAM if possible, as most must have some working RAM in order
to start.
 
 
jurb6006@gmail.com: Oct 30 08:17PM -0700

How the hell do these posts get on other websites ?
 
http://www.edaboard.co.uk/hp-3561a-t553464.html
jurb6006@gmail.com: Oct 30 03:06PM -0700

>"If you *needed* equalization with decent drivers in a homebrew >speaker, I suspect that your crossovers may have needed work as >well, a..."
 
It was the fact that the cabinet was way too small. The passive radiator was much bigger than the original woofer. Kind of a slim cabinet also, not much volume. Actually they were a bit smaller than Boston Acousics A-70. Those had a relatively small cabinet, and shallow, which I like. The Bostons also have a dowel in the middle to stiffen the front and rear baffles. They handled the small volume by using a seriously low impedance woofer and a decent 12 dB crossover. I read the DC resistance of a woofer out of an A-150 and it was 3.2 ohms. I realize they are inductive but that is about the lowest I've seen on something supposedly 8 ohms. IRC lower than those famous 8 inch EPIs.
 
Anyway, by "AKer" I meant a member of Audiokarma. Them people are really into this stuff. Some of these guy have systems up into six figures, but that is really usually more than one system. They are into restoring old Marantzes, Pioneers, etc. and a bunch of high end brands I had never heard of. Separate arms and turntables, homemade solid plinths. Changing like ALL the caps in an amp or speaker crossover. Things like that. And tubes. There is a whole tube section and they are building tube amps. In fact I sold some big irons to a guy in Chicago last year, I'll have to dig up his phone number an find out what he did with them. They were a hundred bucks but worth it as they are Chicago BO-15s which are kinda hard to come by. They are full Williamson with BOTH screen and cathode taps. I have actually come to prefer solid state.
jurb6006@gmail.com: Oct 30 06:35PM -0700

> >90/100. "
 
> "And you are probably white clipping. "
 
> -got anything positive to add, jurb?
 
Do you know what white clipping is ? It is like when the display hits its maximum brightness than 100 IRE. Say between 70 and 100 IRE it does not get any brighter. It makes the picture white out on bright scenes.
 
Sometimes you are not aware of it. Without side by side comparisons you'll never know if it is in the source or the set.
 
I'm curious about that sensor you mentioned, what, it detects the color temperature ? Something like that ?
thekmanrocks@gmail.com: Oct 30 07:19PM -0700

jurb...@gmail.com wrote: "- show quoted text -
Do you know what white clipping is ? It is like when the display hits its maximum brightness than 100 IRE. Say between 70 and 100 IRE it does not get any brighter. It makes the picture white out on bright scenes.
 
Sometimes you are not aware of it. Without side by side comparisons you'll never know if it is in the source or the set. "
 
I usually set it via a scene with sunlit clouds in it if I
don't have my patterns with me.
 
"I'm curious about that sensor you mentioned, what, it detects the color temperature ? Something like that ? "
 
No! You're talking out the wrong end again. The
sensor senses ambient room light, and raises or
lowers the backlight to compensate. Has nothing
to do with color temp.
"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>: Oct 30 07:17PM -0400


> A primary source for many OEM manufacturers. And they make fine motors.
 
> Peter Wieck
> Melrose Park, PA
 
 
You are all replying to a ten year old thread that was resurrected
by a Google spammer. He is spamming a lot of electronics newsgroups to
sell his garbage. No honest company has to resort to spam.
Michael Black <et472@ncf.ca>: Oct 30 05:14PM -0400

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