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amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: Oct 06 08:54AM -0500 I'm replacing a couple of capacitors in speaker crossover. The parts have a glue that holds them tight to the PCB, the glue is still a little bit rubbery after 33 years. (Pioneer HPM-700) What can I use that will do the same job, without solvent damage to the electronic parts?   Mikek

Syd Rumpo <usenet@nononono.co.uk>: Oct 06 03:25PM +0100 On 06/10/2015 14:54, amdx wrote: > What can I use that will do the same job, without solvent damage > to the electronic parts?   > Mikek   Sounds like RTV Silicone. That's what I use for heavier components subject to vibration. eg...     http://uk.farnell.com/dow-corning/3145-90ml/rtv-silicone-clear-tube-90ml/dp/537007   Cheers -- Syd

krw <krw@nowhere.com>: Oct 06 10:45AM -0400 >still a little bit rubbery after 33 years. (Pioneer HPM-700) > What can I use that will do the same job, without solvent damage >to the electronic parts?   A little hot melt?

DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno <DLU1@DecadentLinuxUser.org>: Oct 06 10:56AM -0400 > What can I use that will do the same job, without solvent damage >to the electronic parts?   > Mikek   Hot melt

amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: Oct 06 10:10AM -0500 On 10/6/2015 8:54 AM, amdx wrote: > What can I use that will do the same job, without solvent damage > to the electronic parts?   > Mikek   Thanks Guys, A 10 minute search and a phone call to the wife, I just had to dig deeper into where I thought the hot glue was.   Mikek

captainvideo462009@gmail.com: Oct 05 07:55PM -0700 I just bought a three section 60 ft crank up tower from a guy for 200.00. I plan on cranking this up to about 45 feet and hanging an Alpha Delta inverted V dipole, (80 through 6 meters) on it. The tower has a triangular hinge plate on the bottom which is connected to two of the tower posts with two bolts. This plate has three holes and it is supposed to bolt down to a concrete slab that you pour. The slab has three threaded rods ( that look like about 1/2 inch diameter) sticking up. I saw this at the guys house but we weren't going to try to take the slab. He said he had used about 5 bags of concrete but I'd feel better if i could see that in print...   To raise the tower you hinge the tower up (against your house I assume), although I understand that some of these are free standing without guy wires!!,(I don't know how that would be possible with my tower), and then insert the third bolt into the base. He told me that he then had this secured against the side of his house. I would do the same.   This tower has been sitting outside for a number of years, however the galvanized coating and cable is still good, and although the winch is pretty rusty the the gears and ratchet assembly still work. for safety purposes though I would really like to see the scoop on the winch, reversing mechanism and brake, and also the base.   I plan on lubricating it and installing this up against my house in the Spring, however I would really like to identify the manufacturer and perhaps get a manual for it. The problem is I can't find any clue on this thing at all as to who made it.   To see a representation of what this looks like please take a look at the LM354 on the following site. It looks very much like what I have, but I really don't Know for sure:   http://www.tashtowers.com/docs/LM354-01.pdf   If anyone has any experience with one of these type towers I'd really appreciate any advice. Thanks very much, Lenny,

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Oct 06 09:13AM +0100 > To see a representation of what this looks like please take a look at the LM354 on the following site. It looks very much like what I have, but I really don't Know for sure:   > http://www.tashtowers.com/docs/LM354-01.pdf   > If anyone has any experience with one of these type towers I'd really appreciate any advice. Thanks very much, Lenny,   A-frame/sheer-legs are useful for this sort of activity

Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: Oct 06 05:13AM -0700 On Monday, October 5, 2015 at 10:55:33 PM UTC-4, captainvi...@gmail.com wrote: to take the slab. He said he had used about 5 bags of concrete but I'd feel better if i could see that in print...   If you really need 2.2 cubic yards like your diagram says, you need about ninety 80 pound bags, not the 5 you mentioned. One bag is about 2/3 of a cubic foot, not yard; a yard has 27 cubic feet.   You'd be dumb to mix it. Delivered it's only about $100 - $150 a yard, if you can get a concrete truck to deliver a small quantity.

makolber@yahoo.com: Oct 06 06:36AM -0700 > If anyone has any experience with one of these type towers I'd really appreciate any advice. Thanks very much, Lenny,   another place to look is "Rohn" towers. crank up and tilt over   Mark

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Oct 06 11:58AM +0100 Supposed to be just changing the tray drive belt. Press DVD select button on the front panel, and DVD legend appears in the display, but no sled,tray movement or laser. ovrlay 12V line for 5V VR, overlay 5V line for 3.3V VR and overlay 3.3V for 2.5V VR all present. The user manual has use of r/c only , no reference to the selector on the front for remoteless basic play, and I've no r/c with this machine. No response to open/close button. Anyone come across a machine where you cannot use simple front buttons , although physically present and wired up.

captainvideo462009@gmail.com: Oct 05 08:10PM -0700 On Sunday, May 2, 1999 at 3:00:00 AM UTC-4, Steve Wright wrote:   > Kind Regards > Steve > The.Steve.Wright@bigfoot.com   I'm sure that's the kind of advice he's looking for. Did you look for video out at the R G and B outputs on the demodulator chip? You can measure the voltages with a meter but you're better off looking at them with a scope. I've changed quite a few demodulator chips. Lenny

Fred McKenzie <fmmck@aol.com>: Oct 05 02:49PM -0400 In article <muu8mi$6a6$1@reader1.panix.com>, > for phones and just USB power and they're all essentially the same device. > Some have a pilot LED, some have fuses, some are rated 12-24V in, but > everything else is the same, and also circles a 8 pin chip.   Yes. Has fuse, pilot LED and 12-24V in. I would not be surprised if other adapters found at a thrift store have the identical circuit board.   As a purist I might attempt to repair the original adapter, but the simple 7805 circuit works well. Besides, fuses are not cheap!   Fred

Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Oct 05 08:16PM > As a purist I might attempt to repair the original adapter, but the > simple 7805 circuit works well. Besides, fuses are not cheap!   > Fred   If you have toss zener across the output as some sort of lazy over voltage protection. You can create a fusible link type fuse with a strand of wire from headphones or something really thin too.   I dug out an old multimeter that had a loop of really thin wire wrapped around the blown fuse. Guess I had none of the right type at the time.

M Philbrook <jamie_ka1lpa@charter.net>: Oct 05 08:14PM -0400 In article <muu8mi$6a6$1@reader1.panix.com>, presence@MUNGEpanix.com says... > for phones and just USB power and they're all essentially the same device. > Some have a pilot LED, some have fuses, some are rated 12-24V in, but > everything else is the same, and also circles a 8 pin chip.   I use those cheap 120 volt to 5 volt charger cubes or supplies, when I need 5 volts from 120 volts for a board level project. Saves the hell out of making your own onboard 120v to 5 supply when you can simply rip it out of the case of those dirt cheap cubes at the local junk store. :)

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