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DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno <DLU1@DecadentLinuxUser.org>: Oct 06 05:39PM -0400 >A 10 minute search and a phone call to the wife, I just had to dig >deeper into where I thought the hot glue was.   > Mikek   It is all over your synapses and holding your eyelids shut.

amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: Oct 06 05:22PM -0500 On 10/6/2015 4:39 PM, DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno wrote: >> deeper into where I thought the hot glue was.   >> Mikek   > It is all over your synapses and holding your eyelids shut.   Expectations. I was looking for the orange power cord. It was in a bookcase behind other items, in a bag. I couldn't see the orange cord through the bag. In other words, it was my wife's fault!   Mikek :-)

OldGuy <OldGuy@spamfree.com>: Oct 06 11:07PM -0700 http://www.amazon.com/Sashco-13013-Sealants-Adhesive-5-Ounce/dp/B0012DIUYW   Lexel Adhesive Caulk   read the fine print. can use on polycarbonate as I did, so most anything it sticks to and remains slightly flexible.       --- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Oct 07 02:39AM -0400 In sci.electronics.repair, on Tue, 06 Oct 2015 23:07:03 -0700, OldGuy   >read the fine print. >can use on polycarbonate as I did, so most anything it sticks to and >remains slightly flexible.   I bought a gun-sized tuber for the bathtub, etc. but havenn't used it yet.

DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno <DLU1@DecadentLinuxUser.org>: Oct 07 08:07AM -0400 On Tue, 6 Oct 2015 17:22:58 -0500, amdx <nojunk@knology.net> Gave us:   snip >through the bag. >In other words, it was my wife's fault!   > Mikek :-)   Now, it appears that you are very lucky that she doesn't read Usenet news group posts.

DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno <DLU1@DecadentLinuxUser.org>: Oct 07 08:11AM -0400 On Tue, 06 Oct 2015 23:07:03 -0700, OldGuy <OldGuy@spamfree.com> Gave us:   >can use on polycarbonate as I did, so most anything it sticks to and >remains slightly flexible.   >--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---   What does the chinese use on SMPS inductors, caps, etc.?     I mean I have seen RTV and hot melt, but there are some that use some yellowish "caulk" type stuff that is a bit more turgid (for lack of a better term).

amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: Oct 07 07:49AM -0500 On 10/6/2015 5:22 PM, amdx wrote:   > Mikek :-)   The caps have been replaced, the speakers work. I think! This a 4 way speaker with the super tweeter crossover frequency at 12kHz. I can't hear past 11kHz. I plan on selling these speakers, so I want to verify they do operate. I did verify operation out of the cabinet driving the super tweeters with a signal generator. I need to hook my sig gen to my amp and listen to the super tweeter with a mic and scope while in the cabinet. Where is teenager when you need one?   Mikek

krw <krw@nowhere.com>: Oct 07 11:47AM -0400 >super tweeters with a signal generator. I need to hook my sig gen to my >amp and listen to the super tweeter with a mic and scope while in the >cabinet.   You might try an SPL meter, or perhaps your wife hasn't read this thread and will help? ;-) You might try measuring the impedance of the speaker assembly across the audio band, too. You should be able to see the crossover and tweeter.     > Where is teenager when you need one?   Save them for setting clocks. ;-)

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Oct 06 02:57PM -0400 In sci.electronics.repair, on Sat, 3 Oct 2015 21:28:10 -0400, "Tom   >"micky" <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com> wrote in message >news:a3c01btt8jdvvcvg4hv74aou74ul7bb1sq@4ax.com... >>I have a Radio Shack signal Attenuator with F connections on each side.   BTW, its called a TV and VCR Signal Attenuator.   >> when the signal is too weak, but also when it is too strong.   >With one end open measure the DC resistance of the other end. Once at max >and once at min. Report the values here.   Resistance ranged from near zero CCW (it probably was zero) and about 510 ohms full CW. Half way in the middle, the resistance was somewhat more than half 510.   So since min was on the left and max on the right, it meant max attentuation.   I should have figured this out myself, Tom. Who knows why I didn't.   In the last 36 hours, to fix my telephone, I replaced the phone, the cord, the DSL filter, disconnected the main wire from the rest of the house, and fiddled with the NID outside. It seems to have been the one-piece, all-plastic, Y-connector for the phone line. Even though I'm looking at it and it looks fine, and I'd used it for years. But it's the only thing I changed when the phone started working again. (And the DSL had been working all along.)   Thanks everyone.

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Oct 07 12:07AM -0400 In sci.electronics.repair, on Tue, 06 Oct 2015 14:57:24 -0400, micky >house, and fiddled with the NID outside. It seems to have been the >one-piece, all-plastic, Y-connector for the phone line. Even though >I'm looking at it and it looks fine, and I'd used it for years.   I spoke too soon. Replacing that seems to have enabled me to place phone calls.   But still when people call me, it barely chirps and if I don't answer in what would be two rings, it gives them a busy signal.   I've replaced everything that distinguishes the phone line from the DSL line.     Could the DSL modem be messing up the phone, even though the phone signal does not really go through the modem? That is, the phone line input and the phone output are both in the same modular Y-connector, which plugs into the DSL modem.   I have some moderately heavy phone wire, 2 of the 4 conductors, going straight from the two scews in the NID up the front of the house, to the back of a modular wall plate, to a short modular cord, to one of the two "outputs" of a modular Y-connector. The "input" is plugged into the DSL modem, and the other output goes to the telephone, via a DSL filter, a cord, and a phone. I've exchanged the last 3 things and the Y connector. What's left to replace?

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Oct 06 11:13PM -0400 In microsoft.public.windowsxp.general, on Sun, 13 Sep 2015 17:07:59 >>1) two 50' RCA cables and one 50' S-Video cable. versus >>2) one 50' Cat6 cable with an AV balun at each end. (one with jacks for >>S-video and L and R audio.)   I found a place that was cheap enough, and I ended up buying both of these. I already have the baluns.   Even both of them together are cheaper than Roku.   >>Which will work better to send the computer image to a TV? What will be bad about the other one? ;-) .   >No other choices are possible.   >>Could I make it 100 feet? Is 100 feet too far for either to work nicely?   The central TV area is a little under 50 feet from where the computer is when it's in the basement, and even a little closer to where the computer is when it's on the 2nd floor.   But if I were to run the wires into the wall, up to the attic, across to above the bedroom closet, down into the closet, along the baseboard to the shelves that hold the TV area, that would be about 100 feet.

Paul Drahn <pdrahn@webformixair.com>: Oct 06 10:00AM -0700 > This tower has been sitting outside for a number of years, however the galvanized coating and cable is still good, and although the winch is pretty rusty the the gears and ratchet assembly still work. for safety purposes though I would really like to see the scoop on the winch, reversing mechanism and brake, and also the base.   > I plan on lubricating it and installing this up against my house in the Spring, however I would really like to identify the manufacturer and perhaps get a manual for it. The problem is I can't find any clue on this thing at all as to who made it.   > To see a representation of what this looks like please take a look at the LM354 on the following site. It looks very much like w     at I have, but I really don't Know for sure:   > http://www.tashtowers.com/docs/LM354-01.pdf   > If anyone has any experience with one of these type towers I'd really appreciate any advice. Thanks very much, Lenny,   The PDF of the tower shows a base for a free-standing tower. You are not putting up a free-standing tower if you attach it to a building. Your challenge will be to get it positioned so you can attach it to the building. What type of bracket do you have?   I just finished putting a short Rohn 25 tower against my pole barn shop. I fabricated a new hinge base so I could tilt the tower up against the barn with a flat side fastened to the wall. The Rohn hinge base would have put a single pipe against the wall and my base allows two pipes to be fastened to the wall.   Not being free-standing, you only need enough concrete in the base to be sure it is below your local frost-line, so freezing water doesn't push up the concrete. My base used 3 1/2, 60 lb bags of premix concrete. It is not below the legal frost line, 3 ft, but is right next to the wall and concrete floor of a heated shop. Be sure to add crushed rock to the bottom of the hole for water drainage.   Paul, KD7HB

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