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Micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Nov 20 03:43AM -0500 How to fix my 5V, 2.5amp adapter.   I had 4 short power failures today, and everything on the PC started up fine after the first 3. The fourth was longer so I went grocery shopping.   When I restarted, none of the lights on the wireless router went on, and an ohmmeter showed infinite resistance between the two prongs that plug into the wall. I had a surge, didn't I?   Do you think I'll be able to fix this? An exact replacement is only $7.50 but that's not the point. I want to fix what's broken.   I chiselled the case open and it has maybe 6 electrolytic capacitors. None show the bursting top that I"ve heard about. It has a big transistor and a little one, 2 big diodes, 2 little diodes, what might be a transformer and another double winding, 2 or 3 resistors and a couple little ceramic capacitors.   Right next to an AC prong, it has what looks like a fuse with pigtails, silver ends, and a grey body (not glass) but it shows continuity, 0.3 ohms. Right next to that is a yellow thing, rectangular on all sides, labeled Carli. Might be a Metallized film capacitor.   What should I look at first?     If I can't fix it, my router is b, g, seems fast enough for the printer and the rare laptop use. (The computers themselves use cables for connecting) But should I apply the 7.50 to an L router, or is something better than that coming?     Thanks a lot.     P. S. This is what's broken: http://www.ebay.com/itm/5V-2-5A-D-Link-JTA0302B-Power-Supply-Adapter/331703424856?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3D9a7781190364427ebe948ecf4421bb96%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D301720248001   (Right now I'm using a universal digital camera AC adapter, that I bought 20 years ago. I almost didn't buy it because I did't have a digital camera and didn't expect to get one. Didn't get one for another 10 years (and even it doesn't use an adapter like this.))

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Nov 20 03:27AM -0800 On Friday, November 20, 2015 at 3:43:21 AM UTC-5, Micky wrote: > plug into the wall. I had a surge, didn't I?   > Do you think I'll be able to fix this? An exact replacement is only > $7.50 but that's not the point. I want to fix what's broken.   There is very likely a fusible link somewhere inside the wall-wart that might look something like this: http://www.ttiinc.com/props/IO/38458/204/tyco-electronics-single-use-fuses.jpg or this: http://i00.i.aliimg.com/photo/v0/952862446/3A_250V_fuse_fusible_link.jpg   Use your ohm meter to check and see if one is there and if it is open.   Good luck with it.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

"Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com>: Nov 19 07:16PM "pedro" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message news:o1pq4b10pv0a83rr702feer9tbemlbuubd@4ax.com...   > When we were doing Li-Ion capacity/cycling testing (in association > with charger design) we tried moving from the cell manufacturer's > "specified terminating voltage for full spec capacity" (4v20) to 4v10.   The critical terminal voltage isn't necessarily a constant.   ISTR: earlier generations of cells requiring 4.10V, most current types like 4.20V - I recently encountered a cell type that should be charged to 4.30V. The graph on the datasheet indicates useable capacity takes quite a hit if you only charge it to 4.20V.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Nov 19 02:22PM -0800 >It's a pity manufacturers of laptops, smartphones etc are obsessed >with maximising run-time as a selling spec.   The current "solution" is for laptops to offer a mode where it charges to about 50% of capacity for those that use laptop as a desktop replacement, where it is plugged into a charger 100% of the time. If you want to go somewhere, you're expected to change the setting and quickly charge the battery to 100%. Of course, the setting is buried under several layers of menus in an obscure utility only accessible if you know the cryptic name and obscure location. I also note that this feature seems to be more common on laptops with non-replaceable batteries (Aerobooks and Ultrabooks).   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

pedro <me@privacy.net>: Nov 20 09:49AM +0800 >> with maximising run-time as a selling spec.   >Well...offer a laptop with less battery life than the competition >and see what happens to your market share.   Maybe I should have said manufacturers were obsessed with remaining competitive ...   >So, what was the termination voltage in your final charger design?   Jumper-selectable 4v10 and 4v20 (solder-blob bridge on the PCB - the design was for a large battery supply house). That way the vendor could tailor it to the customer application - which was NOT commodity appliances.

pedro <me@privacy.net>: Nov 20 09:51AM +0800 On Thu, 19 Nov 2015 14:22:01 -0800, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:   >quickly charge the battery to 100%. Of course, the setting is buried >under several layers of menus in an obscure utility only accessible if >you know the cryptic name and obscure location.   Predictably ...   >I also note that this >feature seems to be more common on laptops with non-replaceable >batteries (Aerobooks and Ultrabooks).   Yep, the rest go with the full SOC, give you the big run-time spec, and sell you replacements (batteries, or - more often- machines).

dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt): Nov 19 12:25PM -0800 >rental unit, so being inside when I try the thing "fresh" is not an >option.   >Suggestions?   Remote systems which use a "rolling code" can fall out of synchronization (the receiver expects a different code than the remote is sending) for any of a number of reasons:   - You accidentally push the button on the remote while "out of range" of the receiver. This can happen pretty easily if the remote is in your pocket... sort of like "butt-dialing" a phone.   - There's another door opener of the same brand and type located close to your home, and your receiver "hears" transmissions meant for your neighbor's remote.   In both of these cases, when you try to access the door, the "rolling code" part of the transmission it makes is in a different part of the sequence than the receiver expects to hear.   The receiver will typically treat this as either a brute-force attempt to open the door, or a "replay attack" (somebody recorded your transmission and is playing it back).   The systems often have a "resynchronization" feature, in which transmitting a long series of correct codes in the proper sequence will "convince" the receiver that the remote is the right one and is properly paired. The receiver then resets its sequence to match that of the remote.   The "up to a dozen times" sounds reasonable for a resynchronization.   Check the manual for your door opener - if it has this sort of rolling-code/resynchronization architecture the manual will probably say so.   If that's your problem... you'll probably have to live with it... but maybe keep the remote control in a place where its button isn't likely to be pushed by accident.

M Philbrook <jamie_ka1lpa@charter.net>: Nov 19 08:41PM -0500 In article <oVc3y.137364$gK.30674@fx26.iad>, no.spam@please.net says... > sequences before it's willing to unlock.   > <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rolling_code>   > Clifford Heath.   Yup, my Jeep has the same problem.. Sometimes when I am parked in a lot with many of cars, the hand grab auto unlock will not work, unless I stand there for a few seconds then it works and it'll work just fine repeatively.   Jamie

"Gareth Magennis" <sound.service@btconnect.com>: Nov 19 07:39PM "N_Cook" wrote in message news:n2i36g$vvs$1@dont-email.me...   Ona 1983 Roland Juno 6 synth, so would like to keep original looking. Easy to wire in some modern replacement. One of those rotating arm , but slide switch action that used to be common on amps and tapedecks of the 1970s. 3 position mode switch. The arm that looks metal but is thin aluminium cylinder over plastic. Broken away , and missing, from the internal rocking bit. Switch action is good , but how to fit a shaft? Cannot simple drill and tap/glue a shaft as there is a fixing/pivot rivet that goes through that area. I've sintride fine cone-rasped 4 undercut holes radial to this central position. I intend 4 bend stiff wires and epoxy going in there , and a thin walled aluminium pcb stand-off cylinder, that would normally take a long bolt, slid over those 4 and then epoxied in aswell. Anyone been here before, or better idea?           These Juno's are rapidly increasing in value. At present £800+. Funnily enough I got one in today.   Had one a few weeks ago that had one shonky switch of the type you are describing, but declined to attempt to fix it, as it still worked, albeit in a very wobbly manner. (I didn't fancy risking turning a wobbly working switch into a totally useless one)   I did manage to repair a damaged slider by dismantling and judicious use of epoxy, but the amount of work you are prepared to undertake is well beyond my interests.   Good luck.       Gareth.

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Nov 19 08:06PM On 19/11/2015 19:39, Gareth Magennis wrote: > beyond my interests.   > Good luck.   > Gareth.   Another switch problem is the LFO trigger switch, it is conductive rubber. As found and not working, about 400R. Got inside and turned the active pad 90 degrees, now 100R. Hopefully on repowering that sw will now work. Other problem was break at the socalled strain releif of the mains cable

DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno <DLU1@DecadentLinuxUser.org>: Nov 19 11:46AM -0500 >this will be well inside the multipin connector so will be clamped with >strain relief.   >Thanks.     No. Do not do that. RTV detaches with a sneeze.   Use "lined" shrink tubing for the cable end dress..   A shorter piece, and when heated, it exudes a sealant internally.   One way to source it is to search for "HV heat shrink". It is usually of the lined variety.

DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno <DLU1@DecadentLinuxUser.org>: Nov 19 11:50AM -0500 >I'm not trying to give you a hard time, but this is a question that a >simple google search should give good results for. Have you tried >googling for silicone and the other parameters you require?   Jamie is an idiot. Silicone wires are typically for HV. They are also typically of the single variety, as in not a bundle of conductors for use in making a cable.   HV ganged together usually exhibits corona issues, and is therefore not often done, so finding single silicone wires might be easy, but fashioning lightweight cables from it is not very feasible.   Philbrook is an electrical buffoon.

DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno <DLU1@DecadentLinuxUser.org>: Nov 19 11:52AM -0500 >> no luck. I'm not saying one doesn't exit, but it's not easy to find.   >And cut to order (no 100 ft rolls, please–I need only 12 feet).   >Thanks.   Use what you have and place kynar or other heat shrink over it.

DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno <DLU1@DecadentLinuxUser.org>: Nov 19 12:18PM -0500 On Thu, 19 Nov 2015 11:46:35 -0500, DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno   > A shorter piece, and when heated, it exudes a sealant internally.   > One way to source it is to search for "HV heat shrink". It is usually >of the lined variety.     https://www.google.com/search?q=adhesive+lined+heat+shrink+tubing&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8

DaveC <not@home.cow>: Nov 19 09:44AM -0800 DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno wrote   > Use "lined" shrink tubing for the cable end dress..   OK, thanks. Will do.

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