Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 13 updates in 3 topics

avagadro7@gmail.com: Dec 31 06:17AM -0800

recommend a glass epoxy for cracked halogen light covers ?
Fred McKenzie <fmmck@aol.com>: Dec 31 11:49AM -0500

In article <ed08d40b-16f6-4438-8fac-4f41eb383840@googlegroups.com>,
 
> recommend a glass epoxy for cracked halogen light covers ?
 
I think the temperature may be too high for epoxy.
 
If the covers are plastic, perhaps a solvent can be found that will
"weld" the pieces together.
 
What about fiberglass tape?
 
Fred
John Heath <heathjohn2@gmail.com>: Dec 30 04:10PM -0800

I remember working for a company that imported cheap radios. I took my seat with the other 20 or so techs repairing radios. Most quotas were in the 20 range while I was only repairing 3 or 5 radios a day. Thinking I would be handed my pink slip I asked the tech next to myself how he was repairing so many radios? He pointed to my draw where I had saves some diagrams off the back of some of the radios. There is your problem he said. You are over thinking wasting time. You can measure 6 transistors faster than you can think if they are RF , audio or IF. In short stop thinking and start measuring. When I looked around I could see that the other tech were measuring not thinking. I took his advise and my quota when up from 3 a day to 10. A lesson I did not forget and still use today. I would like to know if others have found this to be true.
John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Dec 30 06:09PM -0800

On 12/30/2015 4:10 PM, John Heath wrote:
> I remember working for a company that imported cheap radios. I took my seat with the other 20 or so techs repairing radios. Most quotas were in the 20 range while I was only repairing 3 or 5 radios a day. Thinking I would be handed my pink slip I asked the tech next to myself how he was repairing so many radios? He pointed to my draw where I had saves some diagrams off the back of some of the radios. There is your problem he said. You are over thinking wasting time. You can measure 6 transistors faster than you can think if they are RF , audio or IF. In short stop thinking and start measuring. When I looked around I could see that the other tech were measuring not thinking. I took his advise and my quota when up from 3 a day to 10. A lesson I did not forget and still use today. I would like to know if others have found this to be true.
 
Well, in my field (arcade game repairs - video, pinball, etc.) we (the
industry) used to trouble shoot monitors looking for the exact problem.
Then some lazy tech started simply replacing all the electrolytic
capacitors in the monitors - and the service rate went from a few
monitors a day to five or more. In 90% of the cases replacing the caps
and the HOT (and fuse) fixed most problems, changing the caps, HOT and
LOPT/Flyback fixed most of the rest. Leaving 5% as dogs that one could
spend a day on - if the customer thought it was worth the money.
 
Mr & Mrs. Gilbreth (Cheaper By The Dozen) who in their Time Management
process would often watch the laziest employee as he (she) would usually
have the best way of doing the job with a minimum of effort or fuss.
 
John :-#)#
 
--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
(604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
Fred McKenzie <fmmck@aol.com>: Dec 30 10:07PM -0500

In article <d1567cb1-cd2d-4fd7-be29-7de28d1a59ab@googlegroups.com>,
> measuring not thinking. I took his advise and my quota when up from 3 a day
> to 10. A lesson I did not forget and still use today. I would like to know if
> others have found this to be true.
 
John-
 
What do you do when all the transistors are good?
 
Back in the 60s I worked for a year as an electronics troubleshooter.
As I recall, the quota was testing 80 circuit modules per day. The
quota was how many modules were tested, not how successful was the
troubleshooting of failed modules!
 
Repair records traveled with each module. I noticed that other
technicians would trace a signal, and have the first transistor replaced
where the signal stopped. Sometimes the same transistor would be
replaced multiple times. Once I noticed that the problem was actually
caused by a wrong part, a backwards diode or parts mounted in the wrong
holes, I learned to visually check the modules before testing. My quota
increased dramatically.
 
I suppose a quota system is necessary, but it does encourage shortcuts.
 
Fred
"Ralph Mowery" <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Dec 30 11:20PM -0500

"John Robertson" <spam@flippers.com> wrote in message
news:VaKdnbNpErDOExnLnZ2dnUU7-aWdnZ2d@giganews.com...
> (and fuse) fixed most problems, changing the caps, HOT and LOPT/Flyback
> fixed most of the rest. Leaving 5% as dogs that one could spend a day on -
> if the customer thought it was worth the money.
 
As always there are many ways to attack a problem. If equipment has a
history of some part or parts failing , look at that first. Especially if
it is easy to replace those parts and they do not cost very much. Then if
it still does not work go on to other methods.
At work we had some equipment that 99.9% of the time it was one of two
things, About 80% was a relay, the other large percentage was a circuit
board that we did not repair in house, but changed out. The relay was easy
as it just plugged in. Took about 5 seconds to change. The board took about
30 minuits to change. For the ones that knew the equipment would take one
voltage reading before changing the relay, for ones that did not know the
equipment and called some one they were told to change the relay.
 
For something like radios ( I repaired the CB radios back when they cost
around $ 200 and up ) I used the devide by two method if nothing stood out
at first glance. Start about half way and inject a signal or listen for a
signal. From that point go about half way to the end and so on.
John Heath <heathjohn2@gmail.com>: Dec 30 10:19PM -0800

On Wednesday, December 30, 2015 at 9:09:28 PM UTC-5, John Robertson wrote:
> (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
> www.flippers.com
> "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
 
A friend of mine has an old school arcade machine. No CPUs or monitors in this puppy. Just a pile of relays and paddle wheels. Great stuff. I could not find the tilt detector?
 
I found a short cut for flat electrolytic condensers in monitors and switching power supplies. First check if condensers that are rounded on top. Failing this use an impedance meter to measure the condenser impedance in circuit without un soldering it. Not un soldering it saves a lot of time. Any condenser with a impedance higher than a few ohms at 10 KHz and you found your problem. The down side is they do not sell condenser in circuit impedance meters so you have to make it yourself. Not a big deal as it just requires 10 KHz at a low impedance with about 100 m volts then monitor the current.
Rheilly Phoull <rheilly@bigslong.com>: Dec 31 02:26PM +0800

On 31/12/2015 2:19 PM, John Heath wrote:
>> "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
 
> A friend of mine has an old school arcade machine. No CPUs or monitors in this puppy. Just a pile of relays and paddle wheels. Great stuff. I could not find the tilt detector?
 
> I found a short cut for flat electrolytic condensers in monitors and switching power supplies. First check if condensers that are rounded on top. Failing this use an impedance meter to measure the condenser impedance in circuit without un soldering it. Not un soldering it saves a lot of time. Any condenser with a impedance higher than a few ohms at 10 KHz and you found your problem. The down side is they do not sell condenser in circuit impedance meters so you have to make it yourself. Not a big deal as it just requires 10 KHz at a low impedance with about 100 m volts then monitor the current.
 
Google "blue meter" or "Bob Parkers ESR meter".
John Heath <heathjohn2@gmail.com>: Dec 30 11:05PM -0800

On Wednesday, December 30, 2015 at 10:07:51 PM UTC-5, Fred McKenzie wrote:
> > others have found this to be true.
 
> John-
 
> What do you do when all the transistors are good?
 
Good question. While the ohms meter is still in your hands from measuring the transistors you touch the volume control. If you hear a click from the speaker the audio is okay. Then the IF and RF with a RF injector probe. With practice it all happens so fast that you quickly know where the problem is. If it turns out to be a dog then the golden rule is switch your dog for someone else's dog. Often my dog is an easy fix for someone else and their dog is an easy fix for me. Not sure why it is like this. Maybe taking a fresh look at a problem from different shoes.
 
> increased dramatically.
 
> I suppose a quota system is necessary, but it does encourage shortcuts.
 
> Fred
 
Yes I know what you mean. With new boards anything can be wrong. Memorizing all the resistors . diodes and transistors can save a lot of time by quickly troubleshooting with your eyes only.
John Heath <heathjohn2@gmail.com>: Dec 30 11:16PM -0800

On Thursday, December 31, 2015 at 1:27:12 AM UTC-5, Rheilly Phoull wrote:
 
> > A friend of mine has an old school arcade machine. No CPUs or monitors in this puppy. Just a pile of relays and paddle wheels. Great stuff. I could not find the tilt detector?
 
> > I found a short cut for flat electrolytic condensers in monitors and switching power supplies. First check if condensers that are rounded on top. Failing this use an impedance meter to measure the condenser impedance in circuit without un soldering it. Not un soldering it saves a lot of time. Any condenser with a impedance higher than a few ohms at 10 KHz and you found your problem. The down side is they do not sell condenser in circuit impedance meters so you have to make it yourself. Not a big deal as it just requires 10 KHz at a low impedance with about 100 m volts then monitor the current.
 
> Google "blue meter" or "Bob Parkers ESR meter".
 
Nice find. Way better than my home brew ESR.
avagadro7@gmail.com: Dec 31 06:20AM -0800

use the Chevy Method....measure then replace the suspect area.
John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Dec 31 08:03AM -0800

On 12/30/2015 10:26 PM, Rheilly Phoull wrote:
>> yourself. Not a big deal as it just requires 10 KHz at a low impedance
>> with about 100 m volts then monitor the current.
 
> Google "blue meter" or "Bob Parkers ESR meter".
 
Indeed, I've been selling those meters since 1999 when I first starting
chatting with Bob Parker (Dick Smith K-7204 kits in those days). Great
ESR meter that works in circuit for roughly values between 4ufd to about
1000ufd.
 
John :-#)#
 
--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
(604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
mzenier@eskimo.com (Mark Zenier): Dec 30 07:36PM

In article <rFAgy.373267$dK6.72081@fx42.am4>,
>for the layout of the 3 pins - when I salvage them, I leave them on the
>front panel PCB so I can trace the tracks and figure out which pin does
>what.
 
Digging out an old EEM catalog, the page for the Sharp modules has 9
different frequencies ranging from 32khz to 56.8 kHz. And I vaguely
remember the datasheet for the Temic(?) integrated circuit sensors
where the subcarrier frequency could be from 20 kHz to 95 kHz.
 
 
Mark Zenier mzenier@eskimo.com
Googleproofaddress(account:mzenier provider:eskimo domain:com)
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 11 updates in 4 topics

"Kenny Cargill" <me@privacy.net>: Dec 29 04:53PM

http://www.hiren.info/pages/bootcd
Boot from this, there are a number of disk tools on it, might help.
 
Kenny Cargill
 
wrote in message
news:bddb7500-1310-4787-be65-cb24d12a50a5@googlegroups.com...
 
Hi guys. I'm hoping that someone will be able to help me with this. I was
watching a video yesterday on my laptop and three quarters through the
screen just froze. It wouldn't respond to anything. I had to do a hard
reset. When it tried to come back up it never completed Post and now it will
not recognize the hard drive. Running diags only shows two attempts at a
"DST short test" with the failure code 2000-0141displayed, and no options to
load a HDD protocol or make an changes in the HDD. Does anyone know if this
is repairable or am I screwed? Thanks for any assistance. Lenny
 
 
--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---
Genesys <wolstech@gmail.com>: Dec 29 06:03PM -0800

> Hi guys. I'm hoping that someone will be able to help me with this. I was watching a video yesterday on my laptop and three quarters through the screen just froze. It wouldn't respond to anything. I had to do a hard reset. When it tried to come back up it never completed Post and now it will not recognize the hard drive. Running diags only shows two attempts at a "DST short test" with the failure code 2000-0141displayed, and no options to load a HDD protocol or make an changes in the HDD. Does anyone know if this is repairable or am I screwed? Thanks for any assistance. Lenny
 
Your hard disk quit. I have a D630 as well, and have seen the 0141 error twice. Both times, a new disk fixed it. Freezing is a common outcome when the hard disk disappears while booted off of it.
 
0141 is an indication that the disk is missing, not that the disk reported a failure. Ignoring improper seating and damaged connectors, the usual cause is mechanical failure (head out of tolerance / crashed onto disk, scraped platters, etc.). Most modern disks read disk parameters and even the firmware from the platters, so a mechanical failure that prevents it from reading the system tracks will often prevent the BIOS from seeing the disk.
 
If you remove the hard disk, the system will likely POST at a more normal pace, then complain about the lack of something to boot from.
c4urs11 <c4urs11@domain.hidden>: Dec 30 02:25AM

On Tue, 29 Dec 2015 06:34:32 -0800, captainvideo462009 wrote:
 
> I was watching a video yesterday on my laptop and three quarters through
> the screen just froze. It wouldn't respond to anything.
 
Can you hear the disk spinning?
 
Power management may have stopped the drive while watching the video.
Then any next access to the disk (say some operation with the swap file)
could freeze the OS if the drive doesn't spin up again.
 
I have had many drives in the past needing repeated power cycling
before they would start: last calls for a final backup...
 
Cheers!
"Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com>: Dec 29 06:58PM

"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:n5tbbp$e35$1@dont-email.me...
 
>> Just a few categories that interested me filled a 32Gb flash drive.
 
> What is the revenue stream to pay for that sort of bandwidth consuming
> platform ?
 
No idea - maybe that's why I got a domain for sale page when I tried to load
datasheets.ru.
 
Within months of the 9/11 attacks, partminer decided their archive of
datasheets should be a revenue stream - by about 2012 they went tits up.
"Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com>: Dec 29 09:33PM

"Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:7JAgy.222125$J75.101139@fx36.am4...
>> platform ?
 
> No idea - maybe that's why I got a domain for sale page when I tried to
> load datasheets.ru.
 
..............actually, that should've read; "pinouts.ru" - I was thinking
of something else while typing.
M Philbrook <jamie_ka1lpa@charter.net>: Dec 29 05:44PM -0500

In article <__Cgy.472844$JS6.111720@fx41.am4>,
gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com says...
> > load datasheets.ru.
 
> ..............actually, that should've read; "pinouts.ru" - I was thinking
> of something else while typing.
 
still works for me?
Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net>: Dec 29 08:03PM -0500

On 12/28/2015 04:05 PM, Ian Field wrote:
 
> Speaking of Polish - there is or was a datasheets.pl site.
 
> Its among the Google hits, but Edge keeps telling me it can't reach the
> page.
 
Try the Wayback Machine.
 
Cheers
 
Phil Hobbs
 
--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics
 
160 North State Road #203
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510
 
hobbs at electrooptical dot net
http://electrooptical.net
c4urs11 <c4urs11@domain.hidden>: Dec 30 01:28AM

On Tue, 29 Dec 2015 20:03:22 -0500, Phil Hobbs wrote:
 
 
> Try the Wayback Machine.
 
> Cheers
 
> Phil Hobbs
 
It is still alive.
Pages take a long time to load.
 
Site <datasheets.pl> links to <http://ql212.internetdsl.tpnet.pl:8080/datasheets/>
 
Cheers!
Bob Engelhardt <BobEngelhardt@comcast.net>: Dec 29 03:16PM -0500

On 12/29/2015 2:52 AM, Charlie+ wrote:
 
>> The saw is under warranty - if I can find the receipt for it (unlikely)!
 
> You might have baught it with a credit card, the account would give you
> proof of purchase.. C+
 
Oh ... good idea! I almost certainly did use a card. Thanks
 
Bob
Bob Engelhardt <BobEngelhardt@comcast.net>: Dec 29 03:19PM -0500

On 12/29/2015 7:46 AM, John-Del wrote:
 
> If you can't find the receipt, reflow the board (including the chip). I've seen a lot of reflow repairs where flexing or thermal cycling is inconclusive. Make sure you don't miss the crystal/resonator. Thoroughly clean the board afterwards as some unseen residues can wreak havoc with processor ICs.
 
Thanks. I'll definitely try that if I can't get it fixed under warranty.
 
Bob
"Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com>: Dec 29 06:54PM

"John Heath" <heathjohn2@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:aa92f31a-f9b2-4afd-9558-d1fbac7cd493@googlegroups.com...
 
> The IR receiver in the TV or stereo is a standard part with 3 leads GND ,
> 5V , and data out. Standard as they all work at 34 KHz , same frequency as
> the old audio ping remotes.
 
AFAIK: there are 3 inbuilt filter frequencies; 36, 38 and 40kHz and its
usually suffixed to the part number - not that they ever stamp it on the
physical part.
 
Having said that - I made a remote tester with a randomly selected sensor
from whatever equipment I scrapped last, it responds to all the remotes I've
used it to test.
 
Between them, the various manufacturers have used every possible permutation
for the layout of the 3 pins - when I salvage them, I leave them on the
front panel PCB so I can trace the tracks and figure out which pin does
what.
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 20 updates in 7 topics

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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 13 updates in 4 topics

Tony Hwang <dragon40@shaw.ca>: Dec 27 03:08PM -0700

Jerry Peters wrote:
 
> That depends on the furnace. MY blower comes on as soon as the burner
> ignites, it's a high efficiency furnace, so the blower must start to
> cool the secondary heat exchanger.
 
How high efficiency? Ours are 96% 2 stage one. There is built-in delay
for blower to come one. Off delay is adjustable by dip switches. Inducer
blower purges vent already before ingnition comes on.
Tony Hwang <dragon40@shaw.ca>: Dec 27 03:09PM -0700

Jerry Peters wrote:
 
> That depends on the furnace. MY blower comes on as soon as the burner
> ignites, it's a high efficiency furnace, so the blower must start to
> cool the secondary heat exchanger.
 
Sounds funny, then your system will blow cool air before warm air start
blowing out.
thekmanrocks@gmail.com: Dec 27 02:22PM -0800

Tony Hwang wrote: "- show quoted text -
Sounds funny, then your system will blow cool air before warm air start
blowing out. "
 
Ever hear of a 'return' in a force air system? That should engage
first, before the hot end of things does.
Mark Lloyd <not@mail.invalid>: Dec 27 12:28PM -0600

On 12/26/2015 02:37 PM, Kirk Landaur wrote:
 
[snip]
 
> hysteresis is built in? Is it in the computer? Is there a dial
> that sets the temperature range of the hysteresis? Is there
> a potentiometer?
 
The mercury switch provides some hysteresis.
 
 
--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us/
 
"In fact, when you get right down to it, almost every explanation Man
came up with for *anything* until about 1926 was stupid." [Dave Barry]
"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Dec 27 05:31PM -0800

The 'anticipator' lives on the stat. Not in the system. 'Lowest' setting. It is still between the gas valve and the valve's power source. That is the specific issue.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Dec 27 05:40PM -0800

For the record, 99-44/100ths of all residential forced air systems do not, repeat!, do not have an independently forced return. They are closed systems with what is best described as a "plenum" (central) return. Usually it is a large floor duct somewhere near the furnace. Essentially, it is the make-up air for the supply.
 
There is a great deal of bad information out there. Please DO try to verify any information from a reliable source before taking any irreversible action(s).
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
thekmanrocks@gmail.com: Dec 27 07:41PM -0800

8:31 PMpf...@aol.com wrote:
"The 'anticipator' lives on the stat. Not in the system. 'Lowest' setting. It is still between the gas valve and the valve's
power source. That is the specific issue.
- show quoted text -"
 
Most of us here know where the anticipator is located.
"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Dec 28 07:43AM -0800

> power source. That is the specific issue.
> - show quoted text -"
 
> Most of us here know where the anticipator is located.
 
They do. But, not to be snarky, there are vanishingly few residential systems out there with forced returns. Few, even in commercial forced air systems. I was involved ONCE (1 time) with a system that had fully ducted supply and returns, this in an academic building of 425,000 square feet. It also had oxygen and CO2 sensors in the classrooms, ran on a VAV based system using constant-velocity variable-vane axial fans on both the supply and returns. It was a high-volume, low pressure system to reduce noise and maintain high air quality. It could vary from a minimum of 10% 'new' air to 100% new air. That, for the record, is the only forced-return system that I have been directly involved with - others exist, I am sure - but mostly in commercial/institutional applications, and most of those also VAV based.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Dec 27 08:34PM

On Sun, 27 Dec 2015 06:14:17 -0500, JW wrote:
 
> http://bee.mif.pg.gda.pl/ciasteczkowypotwor/
 
> There appears to be several hundred gigabytes of manuals!
> Have fun!
 
Many thanks for that pointer!
"Percival P. Cassidy" <Nobody@NotMyISP.net>: Dec 28 08:18AM -0500

On 12/27/2015 06:14 AM, JW wrote:
> http://bee.mif.pg.gda.pl/ciasteczkowypotwor/
 
> There appears to be several hundred gigabytes of manuals!
> Have fun!
 
No RCA!?
 
Perce
c4urs11 <c4urs11@domain.hidden>: Dec 28 01:31PM

On Mon, 28 Dec 2015 08:18:56 -0500, Percival P. Cassidy wrote:
 
>> Have fun!
 
> No RCA!?
 
> Perce
 
Seems pretty useless whining here.
Be happy or polish up your Polish.
 
Cheers!
"Kenny Cargill" <me@privacy.net>: Dec 28 09:42AM

I used to fix TV's and with that came many faulty remotes. I dismantled
them, washed the membrane, buttons and case with Fairy or similar and
cleaned the carbon pads and PCB with Servisol switch cleaner and/or
isopropyl. Broken PCB tracks could with care be fixed, often with
conductive paint, and breakages around the legs of crystals & IR LED's were
common and easily fixed or replaced.
 
Kenny
 
"John Heath" wrote in message
news:24bea72f-83ac-4a88-8e3d-17f413057537@googlegroups.com...
 
On Sunday, December 27, 2015 at 4:31:28 PM UTC-5, N_Cook wrote:
> pushing your fingers through mock leather covering on the long edge
> farthest fromthe hinge section. That edging traps the mock leather in
> the gap between the 2 case parts
 
This reminds me. Take a cell phone picture of the front of the calculator
first before disassembling. All the buttons will fall out making it a
challenge to put them all back where they belong without a picture for a
guild. Been there done that and I paid the price for not taking a picture
before hand.
 
 
--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---
Micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Dec 27 07:57PM -0500

Thanks again.
 
 
On Sat, 26 Dec 2015 12:39:07 -0500, "Paul M. Cook" <pmcook@gte.net>
wrote:
 
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 25 updates in 3 topics

John Heath <heathjohn2@gmail.com>: Dec 27 09:04AM -0800

On Sunday, December 27, 2015 at 11:07:23 AM UTC-5, Cursitor Doom wrote:
> upgrade to something new if it can be fixed reasonably easily.
> Any ideas what the problem might be?
> thanks.
 
Try cleaning the rubber bubble carbon and PC board with alcohol and cue tip. Works for remote controls most of the time. Failing this buy the remote control rebuild kits , around 20 bucks , that will resurface the carbon on the rubber bubble. Good luck with it and I suspect you will be okay with the easy fix of alcohol and a cue tip.
Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Dec 27 05:33PM

On Sun, 27 Dec 2015 09:04:26 -0800, John Heath wrote:
 
> remote control rebuild kits , around 20 bucks , that will resurface the
> carbon on the rubber bubble. Good luck with it and I suspect you will be
> okay with the easy fix of alcohol and a cue tip.
 
Thanks, John. I'm really loathed to throw this old friend out. Babies as
yet unborn when this was shipped to me have grown into men and gone out
and died fighting for the Queen in Afghanistan before this calculator
ever started to fail - and it's had some hard use, I can tell you. Makes
you think, doesn't it? :-/
amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: Dec 27 12:39PM -0600

On 12/27/2015 11:33 AM, Cursitor Doom wrote:
> and died fighting for the Queen in Afghanistan before this calculator
> ever started to fail - and it's had some hard use, I can tell you.
 
 
 
> Makes you think, doesn't it? :-/
 
I bet you feel that everyone around you is getting old.
I sure feel that way.
 
Mikek
MJC <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Dec 27 06:45PM

In article <n5pb4f$n3k$1@dont-email.me>, nojunk@knology.net says...
 
> I bet you feel that everyone around you is getting old.
> I sure feel that way.
 
> Mikek
 
For myself, I knew it was not just me...
 
Mike.
Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Dec 27 08:33PM

On Sun, 27 Dec 2015 12:39:35 -0600, amdx wrote:
 
> I bet you feel that everyone around you is getting old.
 
Those that haven't *already* died from old age, yes!
John Heath <heathjohn2@gmail.com>: Dec 27 01:00PM -0800

On Sunday, December 27, 2015 at 3:36:09 PM UTC-5, Cursitor Doom wrote:
> On Sun, 27 Dec 2015 12:39:35 -0600, amdx wrote:
 
> > I bet you feel that everyone around you is getting old.
 
> Those that haven't *already* died from old age, yes!
 
We are not getting older. Its everyone one else that is getting younger. Just turn on the TV and you will see what I mean :<).
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Dec 27 09:31PM

On 27/12/2015 16:04, Cursitor Doom wrote:
> upgrade to something new if it can be fixed reasonably easily.
> Any ideas what the problem might be?
> thanks.
 
If its like my trusty solar powered fx451 from 1980s, used 20 times
today. To get
inside you pull the rear surround away from the case body proper, by
pushing your fingers through mock leather covering on the long edge
farthest fromthe hinge section. That edging traps the mock leather in
the gap between the 2 case parts
John Heath <heathjohn2@gmail.com>: Dec 27 01:57PM -0800

On Sunday, December 27, 2015 at 4:31:28 PM UTC-5, N_Cook wrote:
> pushing your fingers through mock leather covering on the long edge
> farthest fromthe hinge section. That edging traps the mock leather in
> the gap between the 2 case parts
 
This reminds me. Take a cell phone picture of the front of the calculator first before disassembling. All the buttons will fall out making it a challenge to put them all back where they belong without a picture for a guild. Been there done that and I paid the price for not taking a picture before hand.
"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Dec 27 08:50AM -0800

There is a lot of information both accurate and not-so-much in the replies, so, in summary:
 
a) correct that the mercury bulb is designed as slow on/less slow off. This allows for the over/undershoot.
b) the anticipator matches the nichrome resistor load to the power available from the gas valve. Keep in mind that back in the day, many hydronic systems ran on gravity, no circulator, no mains power. So, power was supplied by a 'millivolt pile' heated by the standing pilot. The anticipator in this case would be at the lowest setting. As gravity systems were slow start-high overshoot systems, the stat would want to respond directly to ambient temps as overshoot was built in.
c) systems with circulators were more capable of holding a steady temp, ran the gas valve at higher voltages, and used limit switches to manage system response. The trick noted of using the MA setting on a VOM is the way to go here.
 
Now, if one lives as we do in a 4,200 s.f. 3 story center hall colonial built in 1890 with an hydronic heating system installed in 1928, such a stat would not be suitable unless several were used in a zoned set-up. Our system uses a gas-fired, modulating, condensing boiler with sensor for supply and return water temps, external air temp, and response time (a function of the change in return water temp over time). We use a smart-stat that also learns, so that it will reach temps 'as timed', rather than starting to heat at a set time. That, too, has a outside temp function. This can get very efficient such that even this big house is quite reasonable to heat.
 
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
Mark Lloyd <not@mail.invalid>: Dec 27 12:28PM -0600

On 12/26/2015 02:37 PM, Kirk Landaur wrote:
 
[snip]
 
> hysteresis is built in? Is it in the computer? Is there a dial
> that sets the temperature range of the hysteresis? Is there
> a potentiometer?
 
The mercury switch provides some hysteresis.
 
 
--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us/
 
"In fact, when you get right down to it, almost every explanation Man
came up with for *anything* until about 1926 was stupid." [Dave Barry]
"Dave M" <dgminala@mediacombb.net>: Dec 27 12:53PM -0600

Tony Hwang wrote:
 
> I think you are thinking backward. Spring controls the position of
> bulb depending on temperature. Not the other way around.
 
>> Kirk Landaur wrote
 
 
Yep, I understand that the "Spring controls the position of bulb depending
on temperature". That was, I thought, my intention to describe. When the
spring bends far enough to tip the bulb, the weight of the mercury in the
bulb swings the bulb a bit farther , requiring the temperature to cause a
greater swing in the other direction to make it switch back. That's where
the hysteresis comes from. That was the question from the OP, which is what
I was trying to answer.
 
cheers,
Dave M
"Tom Miller" <tmiller11147@verizon.net>: Dec 27 01:59PM -0500

"Mark Lloyd" <not@mail.invalid> wrote in message
news:X4Wfy.37615$kN.17621@fx11.iad...
 
>> How do we *change* or *set* how much hysteresis there is?
>> Specifically, how do I get *more* hysteresis in my furnace?
 
> --
 
That's the main reason it is so important to level the t-stat.
thekmanrocks@gmail.com: Dec 27 10:55AM -0800

ssinzig wrote: "arrow, makes whatever you are adjusting 'LONGER'. No ambiguity there at all, except for what that 'LONGER' adjustment is specifically doing (I "
 
Should be pretty obvious what is happening
for a "longer" period of time: the boiler or
furace is running longer! Moving that slider
toward Shorter results in shorter, more frequent
run times of the boiler or furnace.
 
Assuming setpoint = 68.0F
Longer means swing from 66 to 70,
but house gets hot and cold.
Shorter means swing from 67.8 to
68.2, but heat cycles on and off
constantly.
 
Just right(anticipator setting measured
with meter) and you should stay between
67.5 - 68.5F.
 
Same concept with digital "Firing length"
3-4 position menu setting.
"Dave M" <dgminala@mediacombb.net>: Dec 27 01:09PM -0600

Dave M wrote:
> to answer.
> cheers,
> Dave M
 
I forgot to add that, in more direct response to the OP's question, that the
hysteresis (temperature difference required to switch the HVAC unit from off
to on, and back to off) is created by the temperature characteristics of the
bimetal spring, the weight of the mercury ball (both unchangeable by the
user), and modified by the anticipator resistor.
 
More Cheers,
Dave M
ssinzig <ssinzig@outlook.com>: Dec 27 02:19PM -0500


> Just right(anticipator setting measured with meter) and you should
> stay between 67.5 - 68.5F.
 
> Same concept with digital "Firing length" 3-4 position menu setting.
 
Okay, that seems reasonable. Although I would argue that it is not
'pretty obvious' what is happening for a 'longer' period of time,
without already being familiar with its operation or consulting an
operating manual.
 
Is the scale (1.2 to .10) measured in seconds, minutes, or hours?
Is it a multipler, ie. 0.8 x burn duration?
Is it the time the burner stays on?
Is it a time delay before the burner comes on?
Is it a time delay before the burner turns off?
 
Everything is always 'pretty obvious' when you are
already familiar with how it works.
 
S.
jurb6006@gmail.com: Dec 27 11:43AM -0800

>"Now, if one lives as we do in a 4,200 s.f. 3 story center hall >colonial built in 1890 with an hydronic heating system i"
 
That changes things. In a hot water system there is little to no overhead in starting and stopping the system. Also the water has thermal mass so it evens it all out.
 
For most places, hydronic heating is much superior to forced air. The only problem is it does not filter the air, and AC cannot be easily added. If you ever want AC don't let anyone talk you out of that system, make them put in a separate air box for it. Then you will have not only balanced heat, but balanced AC, which is extremely difficult to achieve with a combined system in a multi story house. With separate systems you will be much more comfortable.
 
But the bottom line here is that in a hot water system, the anticipator makes little to no difference in performance or efficiency. You don't have to worry about it.
John Heath <heathjohn2@gmail.com>: Dec 27 12:34PM -0800

On Sunday, December 27, 2015 at 8:14:07 AM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:
 
> > <https://customer.honeywell.com/resources/techlit/TechLitDocuments/60-0000s/60-0830.pdf>
 
> Men never read instructions. Nor ask travel
> directions. It's part of the male code.
 
Here here , I second that. IKEA furniture being the only exception.
 
We
"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Dec 27 12:34PM -0800

There are always a few (not so few around here) outlyers. Gravity systems have a *huge* overshoot such that the stat must be set properly! Keep in mind that most (very nearly all) of these systems were built without mains power, and, of course no circulators. So it is critical that the stat responds to ambient temps fairly closely. It takes *time* before the differential on the supply side is enough to restart circulation once equalized. So, the under/over is established in part already. In such cases, the stat should respond very nearly to ambient temperatures (and should be on an inside wall not facing a radiator).
 
When we moved into this house, I - with more than a little help - removed a 400,000 BTU steel jacket oil burner and replaced it with a Weil Mclain 230,000 BTU gas fired Ultra that also makes our hot water. The system was originally gravity, with 4" ID risers in a 2-pipe configuration. During the install, I added two circulators on the heat side, one for the hot water - the computer on board the boiler manages the dance for all three. But what it means is that all 38 radiators are at the same temperature unless otherwise managed. This allowed me to install thermostatic valves in strategic locations (17 in total) such that we have lots of flexibility. In 8 winters, we have never had a lick of trouble.
 
But a smart stat is essential to keeping all this in balance.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Dec 27 12:36PM -0800

Yabbut.....IKEA uses *pictures*!!
 
That is an exception!
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
"Tom Miller" <tmiller11147@verizon.net>: Dec 27 03:48PM -0500

<pfjw@aol.com> wrote in message
news:ac45991f-249a-4b8d-a508-d10a3d4c653b@googlegroups.com...
 
 
" In such cases, the stat should respond very nearly to ambient temperatures
(and should be on an inside wall not facing a radiator)."
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
 
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
 
And don't forget to consider what is inside the wall. Such as hot and cold
water pipes, return air ducts, wiring,...
jurb6006@gmail.com: Dec 27 12:50PM -0800

>"There are always a few (not so few around here) outlyers. Gravity >systems have a *huge* overshoot such that the stat must be set >properly! "
 
Except if it is a thermopile system. If so, there is no anticipator.
Jerry Peters <jerry@example.invalid>: Dec 27 09:08PM

> Is it the time the burner stays on?
> Is it a time delay before the burner comes on?
> Is it a time delay before the burner turns off?
 
It's the current draw for the solenoid valve.
Jerry Peters <jerry@example.invalid>: Dec 27 09:10PM

>> starts back up.
 
> That is why blower does not come on with flame on, does not go off with
> flame off(this going off delay is usually adjustable at the control board)
 
That depends on the furnace. MY blower comes on as soon as the burner
ignites, it's a high efficiency furnace, so the blower must start to
cool the secondary heat exchanger.
thekmanrocks@gmail.com: Dec 27 01:48PM -0800

ssinzig wrote: "- show quoted text -
Okay, that seems reasonable. Although I would argue that it is not
'pretty obvious' what is happening for a 'longer' period of time,
without already being familiar with its operation or consulting an
operating manual.
 
Is the scale (1.2 to .10) measured in seconds, minutes, or hours?"
No time bearing whatsoever. It's VOLTAGE.
"Is it a multipler, ie. 0.8 x burn duration? "
No.
"Is it the time the burner stays on? "
Yes!!
"Is it a time delay before the burner comes on? "
Sort of. You're starting to get it.
"Is it a time delay before the burner turns off? "
Getting warmer!(pardon the pun). It's function
is determined by voltage(the numbers on the
anticipator slider are in Volts).
 
A heat anticipator generates 'false heat' - it tricks a
traditional bulb-stat into firing the boiler in a more
energy efficient manner, by generating a small
amount of local heat within the wall unit itself.
 
The correct amount of false heat both prevents
the thermostat from calling for heat too soon after
it drops below set point(what you the user set it for),
and prevents thermostat from running so long that it
overshoots that set point by significant amount.
 
At its extremes, a heat anticipator could cause too
frequent and short boiler runs, or not so frequent boiler
runs between which the house gets too cold, and then
gets too hot before the boiler turns off. Set properly, the
anticipator will turn the unit off just before reaching the
setpoint, so that remaining hot water(or air) in the system
can be pushed through the system without a significant
overshoot.
 
Succinctly, you want neither a scenario where the boiler
turns on and off every three minutes, nor where it turns
on for one half hour, and is then off for nearly one half
hour. The anticipator, when properly calibrated, prevents
both situations, and keeps the temp. within a tolerable
range.
 
"Everything is always 'pretty obvious' when you are
already familiar with how it works. "
 
S. "
 
That's why we're here to share knowledge. ;)
John Heath <heathjohn2@gmail.com>: Dec 27 09:16AM -0800

On Sunday, December 27, 2015 at 7:54:25 AM UTC-5, N_Cook wrote:
> collection of paper manuals with that and other similar indexed
> resources, ie not unfortunately elektrotanya/eservice , and scan in and
> upload somewhere the non-duplicates.
 
Nice find. I bookmarked it. I would add
 
http://www.nostalgiaair.org/Resources/
 
Its free schematics for older radios.
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