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thekmanrocks@gmail.com: Dec 26 08:37PM -0800 Bob Engelhardt wrote: "That is the "anticipator", not hysteresis setting. "   Yes! Digital programmables have replaced the heat anticipator with a set of "firing length" options: 1 for shorter firing time, 2 for normal, and 3 for longer.

Stormin Mormon <cayoung61@hotmail.com>: Dec 27 08:14AM -0500 On 12/26/2015 5:37 PM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:   > Have you read the instructions for the thermostat?   > <https://customer.honeywell.com/resources/techlit/TechLitDocuments/60-0000s/60-0830.pdf>   Men never read instructions. Nor ask travel directions. It's part of the male code. We can also pretty much always find a place to go potty, even if it's behind second base in a crowded baseball theatre. No guy will ever comment on another guy who is.... no comment.   When I was doing AC installs, we'd jump R to W with AC ammeter, and then use that figure to set the slider in the old style round stat.   -- . Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus . www.lds.org . .

ssinzig <ssinzig@outlook.com>: Dec 27 11:14AM -0500 Kirk Landaur wrote:   > This seems to be the correct URL to the picture. > http://oi63.tinypic.com/280nvqs.jpg   > Notice the "LONGER" and "<------" fight each other.   No they don't. Following your picture in the URL above, the numbers on the scale go from 1.2 to .10 (left to right).   The 'LONGER' label indicates what happens when you move the pointer in the direction indicated below it by the arrow. Moving the pointer to the left, to a higher number say from .2 to .3, in the direction of the arrow, makes whatever you are adjusting 'LONGER'. No ambiguity there at all, except for what that 'LONGER' adjustment is specifically doing (I guess that would be in the manual).   S.

John Heath <heathjohn2@gmail.com>: Dec 27 08:48AM -0800 On Saturday, December 26, 2015 at 3:58:55 PM UTC-5, Dave M wrote: > > a potentiometer?   > > How do we *change* or *set* how much hysteresis there is? > > Specifically, how do I get *more* hysteresis in my furnace?   The voice of wisdom speaks. Thank you Dave. If you take the thermostat off the wall and tilt it left and right you can see the heavy mercury drop flop back and forth causing the hysteresis in the temperature by-metal spring. An elegant design from old school physics that does not require microprocessors and such. I would add more reliable as well.

Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Dec 27 04:04PM Hi all,   I have an elderly Casio scientific calculator (fx-3400p) which I've owned since new in 1991 (so I'm quite attached to it). Lately, the numeral '2' key has become a bit flaky inasmuch as every press doesn't always register 100% of the time any more. I know these things are dirt cheap to replace, but I've got used to the layout of it and don't really want to upgrade to something new if it can be fixed reasonably easily. Any ideas what the problem might be? thanks.

JW <none@dev.null>: Dec 27 06:14AM -0500 http://bee.mif.pg.gda.pl/ciasteczkowypotwor/   There appears to be several hundred gigabytes of manuals! Have fun!

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Dec 27 11:58AM On 27/12/2015 11:14, JW wrote: > http://bee.mif.pg.gda.pl/ciasteczkowypotwor/   > There appears to be several hundred gigabytes of manuals! > Have fun!   Nice to see downloadable , simple hierarchic indexing for a change.

c4urs11 <c4urs11@domain.hidden>: Dec 27 12:09PM On Sun, 27 Dec 2015 11:58:16 +0000, N_Cook wrote:     >> There appears to be several hundred gigabytes of manuals! >> Have fun!   > Nice to see downloadable , simple hierarchic indexing for a change.   Agree, usually such posts end in money.   You may land at similar pages googling for "index of /" plus "last modified" both doubly quoted - and adding your actual search term. But I feel google is returning less and less of such results.   Cheers!

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Dec 27 12:54PM On 27/12/2015 12:09, c4urs11 wrote: > both doubly quoted - and adding your actual search term. > But I feel google is returning less and less of such results.   > Cheers!   Sometime, when I get dome time, I must cross-compare my indexed collection of paper manuals with that and other similar indexed resources, ie not unfortunately elektrotanya/eservice , and scan in and upload somewhere the non-duplicates.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Dec 26 06:37PM -0800 Ralph Mowery wrote: > the displayed watt on the meter within a few percent. Then I hooked up an > amplifier that has a transformer in it and the displayed power was about 80% > of the volts times amps.   ** That is rather high, normally is it closer to 65%.   IOW transformer fed PSUs have a PF of 0.65.     > variac to keep the main surge down would a 1 amp fuse blow at around 50 > volts when the current got past 1 amp or could I keep going to the full 120 > volts AC ?   ** Strange question.   The fuse will blow when its current rating is exceeded by a sufficient ratio - about 50% or so.   That the load is a capacitor ( with current and voltage not in phase) has no effect.     ... Phil

"Ralph Mowery" <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Dec 26 11:38PM -0500 "Phil Allison" <pallison49@gmail.com> wrote in message news:c02b6c55-4e01-40ea-9709-ce7e0c2f132f@googlegroups.com... > ratio - about 50% or so.   > That the load is a capacitor ( with current and voltage not in phase) has > no effect.   I looked over the numbers and the amplifier without drive was about .66 and when loaded heavy was .75.   I though the fuse would blow when the amp meter was showing enough current for it to blow with just a capacitor across the line. As we all know a fuse does not blow at the exect time the current is slightly exceeded.   I had never looked into the effect of inductive and capacitive loads on an AC line. Just knew there was a power factor due to the lead and lag of current and voltage. My main item of interist is at Radio Frequency and only look at the AC power was to make sure it was enough to power the equipment. I just hapen to see some numbers come up on the meter I had gotten a few weeks ago and got courious as if it was a cheep meter from China and giving false readings or if they were reasonable close. I do have a good multimeter to check the actual voltage and a clamp on meter for the current. For most work if it is from 5 ot 10 percent from those it is close enough for me. With the first calculated and displayed values were way off I started to see why. Such as the meter showed 100 watts and the volt amp multiplying was showing 150 watts and under load it was 1200 on the meter and 1500 calculated with the V and I . Checking with a hair dryer for a mostly resistive load the V and I calculated the same as the meter.

Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: Dec 26 07:31PM -0800 On Saturday, December 26, 2015 at 1:23:15 PM UTC-5, Bennett Price wrote: > > directors favorite note was a B to set everyone to.   > The strobe tuner of yore is still available: > https://www.petersontuners.com/shop/Mechanical-Strobe-Tuners   check this out, it explains the circuit (back on topic for the forum)   http://home.grandecom.net/~garybrookshire/files/conn%20st-1%20manual.pdf

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