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Trevor Wilson <trevor@SPAMBLOCKrageaudio.com.au>: Jan 13 01:48PM +1100 I have one of the above-mentioned amps on the bench. Pretty straightforward - 3 X EL84 output valves have air inside the valve. The plate on one valve appears to have suffered somewhat, but I don't expect any serious problems apart from that. However, my main questions are:   * Should I match the output valves (more accurately, buy a matched quad from Evatco)? Cost = AUS$100.00/set. Tung-Sol, Genalex (I have an aversion to Chinese valves, even though they are cheaper), Electro-Harmonix, JJ, etc. * My other supplier has no matched sets (and I don't want to buy a crap-load so I can match them), but sells two brands: Sovtek $13.75 each or Electro-Harmonix $17.05.   Although cost is not an over-riding concern, the time to ship the Evatco valves could be. My other supplier can ship today.   Thoughts appreciated. Particularly from PA.   -- Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au   --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

Trevor Wilson <trevor@SPAMBLOCKrageaudio.com.au>: Jan 13 02:03PM +1100 On 13/01/2016 1:48 PM, Trevor Wilson wrote:   **OOps. That would be a Peavey Classic 30.   -- Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au   --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jan 12 08:46PM -0800 Trevor Wilson wrote:   > Although cost is not an over-riding concern, the time to ship the Evatco > valves could be. My other supplier can ship today.   > Thoughts appreciated. Particularly from PA.   ** Finding reliably good EL84s is a PITA - there are many duds being sold, with low current output and long warm up times, like over 5 minutes. Your safest bet is probably JJ or else EH brand.   Matching is best done by YOU with the valves in the actual amp.   At least try to get the idle current the same on each half of the OT as many of them are intolerant of any unbalanced DC component resulting in severe distortion at low frequencies.     .... Phil

Trevor Wilson <trevor@SPAMBLOCKrageaudio.com.au>: Jan 13 03:57PM +1100 On 13/01/2016 3:46 PM, Phil Allison wrote:   > At least try to get the idle current the same on each half of the OT > as many of them are intolerant of any unbalanced DC component > resulting in severe distortion at low frequencies.   **Thanks for the tips. The guys at Musiclink were quite helpful, suggesting that the original valves were crap and anything would be an improvement. In fact, they responded to my email with good advice AND a full schematic, board layout and parts list (which I did not request). Great service.     -- Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au   --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jan 12 10:28PM -0800 Trevor Wilson wrote:     > **Thanks for the tips. The guys at Musiclink were quite helpful, > suggesting that the original valves were crap and anything would be an > improvement.   ** That sort of self opinionated drivel is not helpful at all.   It is very easy to find EL84s that glow red, give low power or only last a short while in a PV Classic 30 - things the original Peavey brand ones did not.   Personally I would not take the slightest notice of any tech that made remarks like that cos it is a sure sign of a bullshit artist.     ... Phil

John-Del <ohger1s@aol.com>: Jan 13 07:30AM -0800 On Wednesday, January 13, 2016 at 1:29:01 AM UTC-5, Phil Allison wrote:   > It is very easy to find EL84s that glow red, give low power or only last a short while in a PV Classic 30 - things the original Peavey brand ones did not.   > Personally I would not take the slightest notice of any tech that made remarks like that cos it is a sure sign of a bullshit artist.   > ... Phil   Unless they meant that originals that are in the amp right now are crap and any brand of new ones would be an improvement. (?)

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Jan 12 10:27PM -0800 On 01/12/2016 6:58 PM, Steven P wrote: > Hi, I have a power supply board for a Technics electric piano (a professional instrument, not a cheap "keyboard"). The power supply board appears to be cooked. (Not visibly burnt tho.) I have a so-so-quality pdf of the service manual too. Was wondering if anyone here who does board repairs could handle this. At your regular rate, of course. Thx! Bonus points if you can also check the CPU board too. (There's only these 2 boards and a small transformer, plus speakers.) Model is Technics SX-PR51.   You would likely get a better response if you posted this in sci.electronics.repair or rec.antiques.radio+phono   I've cross-posted it there   John :-#)# -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

avagadro7@gmail.com: Jan 12 04:03PM -0800 LOST NUTS !   FOR https://goo.gl/I4oUmF   group have experience rethreading switch bolt with a die ? for a nylon nut ?

John G <john.g@green.com>: Jan 13 11:16AM +1100 > FOR https://goo.gl/I4oUmF   > group have experience rethreading switch bolt with a die ? for a nylon nut > ?   Wots Yur REAL Problem?   Please try and write a little story about whot your are asking about. :-?   -- John G Sydney.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jan 12 04:25PM -0800 > LOST NUTS !   You have two. One is a spare.   > FOR https://goo.gl/I4oUmF > group have experience rethreading switch bolt with a die ? for a nylon nut ?   Most electrical/electronic switch nuts are fairly common and easy to replace. <https://www.google.com/search?q=switch+nut+replacement&tbm=isch> Just look in any junk box full of old switches and potentiometers. However, the plastic switches use a somewhat coarser thread pitch. I'm not sure how well standardized those are.   If you're desperate, wrap some baling around the threads a few times and twist tight. If it holds, you can leave it alone. If not, loosen slightly and screw the wire until it's tight onto the mounting plate. I've done this a few times in situations where things just have to work, not look good.   If that's not good enough, duct tape.       -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

avagadro7@gmail.com: Jan 12 04:50PM -0800 AE6KS     awwwww Lieb that is soooo sloppy.   isn't there a fine thread die abt .5 inch or 7/16th's in your drawers ?   incroyable ! never rethreaded a switch bolt ? XXXXX the bolts are just waiting there for rethreading....   Get this...there are 7 here nutless. Collected them this afternoon. 3 are hella's for expletive deleted.   there is a question of fine thread nylon nuts but I'll look now....wait one....   http://www.mcmaster.com/#nylon-nuts/=10nmern   asks more questions....Hella would be metric, I assume not proprietary as that would be a potential loser. I could ask but Hella is short handed.....wuhwuhwuh   I can ask Practical Machinist   I'll drag one down to the Universal Hardware Store n ask the Wizard.

avagadro7@gmail.com: Jan 12 05:01PM -0800 > asks more questions....Hella would be metric, I assume not proprietary as that would be a potential loser. I could ask but Hella is short handed.....wuhwuhwuh   > I can ask Practical Machinist   > I'll drag one down to the Universal Hardware Store n ask the Wizard.   nnnnnnnnnnnn     switch bolts here measure abt .5 inch fine thread....how does this translate into a metric sizing ?

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jan 12 05:44PM -0800 >awwwww Lieb that is soooo sloppy.   Yep. Think of it as a temporary fix until you can find the proper nut.   Wrap the threads in electrical tape and secure the switch with a small hose clamp?   Sugru? Make you own plastic nuts? <https://sugru.com> <https://sugru.com/gallery/replace-a-lost-screw-on-cap>   >isn't there a fine thread die abt .5 inch or 7/16th's in your drawers ?   Measure again. I don't think there are any switches with a 0.5 inch pitch diameter.   >incroyable ! never rethreaded a switch bolt ?   Nope. At a former employer, I got fed up with looking for spare nuts of the variety of pots and switches. So, I ordered about 1000 each of various sizes that we commonly used including the decorative nuts. When I left about 9 years later, the bins were about half full. That's about 50 nuts lost each year, which isn't too horrible.   >XXXXX the bolts are just waiting there for rethreading....   Hint: To get maximum strength from the nut or bolt, you'll need at least 3 or 4 mating threads. If you rethread it with something too coarse, it will probably strip out because of the lack of mating threads.   >Get this...there are 7 here nutless. Collected them this afternoon. >3 are hella's for expletive deleted.   Got a thread gauge? <http://hosewarehouse.com/image/cache/data/Aeroquip/Accessories/ft1341-3-2%20%28640x387%29-500x500.jpg> <http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/813OTUmdvZL._SL1500_.jpg> <http://www.4custom.com/e/Bolt%20Gauge%20Blue%20Front.jpg> If not, go shopping.   >there is a question of fine thread nylon nuts but I'll look now....wait one.... >http://www.mcmaster.com/#nylon-nuts/=10nmern   Identify the switch maker and model number. Identify the threads. Then go Googling for replacements.   >asks more questions....Hella would be metric, I assume not proprietary >as that would be a potential loser. I could ask but Hella is short >handed.....wuhwuhwuh   The only difference between coarse, fine, US standard, metric, and various proprietary plastic thread standards is how much force you need apply to make it fit.   >I can ask Practical Machinist   He'll say use the baling wire.   >I'll drag one down to the Universal Hardware Store n ask the Wizard.   Wizard? Anyone that knows what they're doing is not doing retail customer support. You're more likely to get some clueless part time high skool graduate with zero experience. Have him figure out the thread size and get out of there before he sells you something.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

avagadro7@gmail.com: Jan 12 04:35PM -0800 zaaaaaaaaaaaaap     https://goo.gl/sWMauc   antiquo !   anyone know of a way to travel to a Groups post No. One ?

avagadro7@gmail.com: Jan 12 04:27PM -0800 right live on Florida. Roaches slitherd into the speaker grilles on a Dell 1705E 2006. I imagined the unti was sealed of from insect excursions but not.   However was advised all the circuitry is sprayed with a waterproof clear polymer. I see connectors not qualifying for sealed but prob not available for an outhouse or sewage flow.   Best....place the unit inside a sealed box at night, when your not using it. Rig a thru wall ac line sealed with silicone.   The roaches I experienced didnah care if I was at the keyboard or not.   Home Depot has an insecticide row.   My truck had underseat pillbugs or sowbugs or kin. HD has a container of white plastic insecticide structures. One placed under mat between seats killed the bugs where 2 other tries from Wal did not. No odor or gas release form under the mat.   Insecticides contained in a designed structure lasts longer than the spray insecticide. Controlled emission.

Freya Wilson <freyawilson@gmail.com>: Jan 12 10:40AM -0800 i need a power cord for my eye of the storm E-6000A. where can i get one?

JC <Chipbee40_SpamNo@yahoo.com>: Jan 12 04:20PM -0500 On 1/12/2016 1:40 PM, Freya Wilson wrote: > i need a power cord for my eye of the storm E-6000A. where can i get one?   Assume you mean the power adapter? Description in ebay listing 141583117081 states this is the 22v adapter :   http://www.ebay.com/itm/VERIFONE-Desk-Top-Class2-Power-Transofrmer-Output-AC22V-1-5A-Model-02099-11G-/161712649301

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