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Steven P <stevenpm61@gmail.com>: Jan 13 12:06PM -0800 On Wednesday, January 13, 2016 at 1:27:55 AM UTC-5, John Robertson wrote: > (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) > www.flippers.com > "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."   Here for replies to the cross-post! :)

Ismo Salonen <nobody@nowhere.invalid>: Jan 14 06:30PM +0200 On 13.01.2016 22:06, Steven P wrote: >> www.flippers.com >> "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."   > Here for replies to the cross-post! :)   Yes but could you limit distribution ? This group is worldwide and we at the other side of big pond are not easily to work those repairs :-)   br ismo

T Wood <f6ceedb9c75b52f7fcc0a55cf0cfbf5d_1028@example.com>: Jan 14 04:37AM responding to http://www.electrondepot.com/repair/sherwood-rx-5502-receiver-protection-shutdown-repair-thoug-134725-.htm , T Wood wrote: Thank you so much for the info. I found the 7812 that powered the amp to be bad. A $2 radio shack part and a little time, and my RX-5502 is back up and operational. Mine was shutting down exactly as you described and after replacing the 7812, it has played music for over two hours and is still doing great.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Jan 14 12:23AM -0800 You realize this is five years old and some of these people could be dead.   It might be nice to resurrect threads on websites that simply copy Usenet but have no content of their own, but to respond to it on Usenet is not nice. Some people get pissed off.   Some people pull up shit from like 1991. this was even here in 1991 ? I mean, some cars still had carbs back then. They never heard of radon gas. Like a different world.

Kaz Kylheku <kaz@kylheku.com>: Jan 14 04:06PM > It might be nice to resurrect threads on websites that simply copy > Usenet but have no content of their own, but to respond to it on > Usenet is not nice. Some people get pissed off.   Threads about a fixing particular piece of consumer electronic equipment tend to be old.   If someone has *new* information to add, like "I fixed a similar problem with the same unit, and it went like this" it's perfectly fine; there is nothing wrong with referencing the old thread.   Look, you're just not going to find a current, continuous, day-to-day discussion thread on a darned Sherwood RX-5502, right?   But if you start trying to help that person from seven years ago by asking questions, like "does the front panel light up, or is it completely dead?" then you're indeed a necroposting moron who annoys people, and probably shouldn't be using any device that has a CPU and network connection.   > Some people pull up shit from like 1991. this was even here in 1991 ? > I mean, some cars still had carbs back then. They never heard of radon > gas. Like a different world.   I'm pretty sure I heard of the issue of radon in homes in the middle 1980's. I'm in Canada, though; it's more of a problem in winterized homes, whose residents don't open their damned windows for much of the year.   Radon was already linked to lung cancer in non-smoking miners in the 1940's, according to <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Radon#Health_risks>.

Trevor Wilson <trevor@SPAMBLOCKrageaudio.com.au>: Jan 14 06:59AM +1100 On 14/01/2016 2:30 AM, John-Del wrote:   >> ... Phil   > Unless they meant that originals that are in the amp right now are > crap and any brand of new ones would be an improvement. (?)   **That is precisely what the tech suggested. He was clearly unhappy with the Chinese valves chosen by Peavey in this model.       -- Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au   --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

"Gareth Magennis" <sound.service@btconnect.com>: Jan 13 08:27PM "Trevor Wilson" wrote in message news:dflsdrFnqpnU1@mid.individual.net...   I have one of the above-mentioned amps on the bench. Pretty straightforward - 3 X EL84 output valves have air inside the valve. The plate on one valve appears to have suffered somewhat, but I don't expect any serious problems apart from that. However, my main questions are:   * Should I match the output valves (more accurately, buy a matched quad from Evatco)? Cost = AUS$100.00/set. Tung-Sol, Genalex (I have an aversion to Chinese valves, even though they are cheaper), Electro-Harmonix, JJ, etc. * My other supplier has no matched sets (and I don't want to buy a crap-load so I can match them), but sells two brands: Sovtek $13.75 each or Electro-Harmonix $17.05.   Although cost is not an over-riding concern, the time to ship the Evatco valves could be. My other supplier can ship today.   Thoughts appreciated. Particularly from PA.   -- Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au         I have a thought. The Peavey Classic 30 is a rather nice sounding amp IMHO.   (Considering it's a Peavey)     If I was a proper guitarist, I'd have one of those - but I'm not, I just fix the things.       Gareth.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jan 13 07:49PM -0800 Trevor Wilson wrote: > > crap and any brand of new ones would be an improvement. (?)   > **That is precisely what the tech suggested. He was clearly unhappy with > the Chinese valves chosen by Peavey in this model.   ** The PV Classic30 dates from 1994, but new examples are still on sale. If the EL84s in TW's PV are original and Chinese, they a likely very old. PV have been using Russian made EL84s since about 2008, supplied to them by Sovtek.   Letting air in ( or the vacuum out ) is a sign of overheating - or a drink spill. Sometimes you can find a tiny crack in the glass between the pins.   Truth is, the tech at Musiclink gave TW no useful advice at all, cos he had none to give. But TW considers he got a useful answer, cos it let him do whatever he felt like.     .... Phil

Ivan Vegvary <ivanvegvary@gmail.com>: Jan 13 10:06AM -0800 Just getting back into the electronics hobby after 50 years. (Tube era, fixing old Emerson TVs). Have scope, signal generator VOM etc. Hobby includes Arduino, breadboard transistor circuits, 555 timers, logic chips. Lots of learning.   Have probes but need a list of 'must-have' connectors such as: BNC, BNC TEE, BNC to pigtail, BNC to banana plug, what else ?? Need to order on line and to save on shipping I would like to be as inclusive as practicle. Any lists would be greatly appreciated. Thank you! Ivan Vegvary

"Ralph Mowery" <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Jan 13 02:43PM -0500 "Ivan Vegvary" <ivanvegvary@gmail.com> wrote in message news:ea439575-7ca8-4e48-8259-059ad76d8aa3@googlegroups.com... > Any lists would be greatly appreciated. > Thank you! > Ivan Vegvary   I think I would look over the test equipment you have and see what kind of connectors are on them. Then find adapters to put on them to convert them to BNC. From there have most all the test leads with the test equipment side being BNCs. That way you can use most any test lead with any test set. When doing the conversion you may want to look at some of the crimp type BNCs. Lots easier to put on. The crimping tool can be bought off ebay for about $ 20 and the connector prices are about the same, crimp or solder and mechanical.   I often keep my eye on ebay for someone selling a mix of connectors. Don't usually do that any more as I have about all the adaptors I can use.   While the price seems high, you may want to look at something called a unidaptor kit.. Around $ 100. It is a kit that has what looks to be half of a connector on one side and the other side is a special connector. That side can be screwed into either a piece of matching coax or a short mating connector that will screw into another 'half' connector from the same kit. You can mate almost anything to anything with that kit. Look for this ebay number for an example. 131159127616

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