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| Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Jan 19 02:31PM Hi all, Given that NOS TF caps seem to be increasingly hard to come by, is there a modern equivalent type that can satisfactorily replace them with a similar footprint & pinout? I'm specifically interested in the 250V rated types found in old 'scope smps. thanks |
| makolber@yahoo.com: Jan 19 06:55AM -0800 On Tuesday, January 19, 2016 at 9:34:06 AM UTC-5, Cursitor Doom wrote: > similar footprint & pinout? I'm specifically interested in the 250V rated > types found in old 'scope smps. > thanks whats a tropical fish cap? |
| Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Jan 19 03:18PM On Tue, 19 Jan 2016 06:55:00 -0800, makolber wrote: > whats a tropical fish cap? I'm guessing you're under 30? Ebay's your friend: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10x-Mullard-Tropical-Fish- Capacitors-47nF-0-047uF-250v-/360338287201?hash=item53e5d5ea61:m:mcN- DqTXnkkcyUmSf_Gylog |
| jurb6006@gmail.com: Jan 18 11:19AM -0800 After putting in a truckload of electrolytics to get rid of ripple in the race I have some residual noise in X 10 mode. I am wondering if it might be almost normal. In normal the trace is nice and sharp, but in X 10 it is about 0.8 mm. high. Before the caps it had something akin to a sine wave at double the power supply chopping frequency in all modes, unaffected by the setting of the V/div. It would only go away in add, invert B. With the case off it does pick up some additional noise, which is gone when you set it to maximum gain, which is when the attenuator is just a piece off wire, and ground reference on the input. At that point you are getting a pretty true picture of how much noise is actually in the system. I have been tripped up by expecting too much. For example working on an old FM which works but I think no way it is working right because it doesn't get the Akron stations (from Cleveland). I wonder if this is what's going on here. |
| Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jan 18 06:15PM -0800 > in the race I have some residual noise in X 10 mode. I am wondering > if it might be almost normal. > In normal the trace is nice and sharp, but in X 10 it is about 0.8 mm. high. ** Completely normal for a 50MHz scope. The 1Mmohm impedance and wide bandwidth combine to create about 150uV of noise which makes the trace a bit fuzzy at the high gain setting. .... Phil |
| jurb6006@gmail.com: Jan 19 06:13AM -0800 What bothered me was that it was a good piece of one of the small divisions. But then I do remember scopes with a trace about that sharp in normal mode. Well it is "sharp" because it is not unfocussed, it is noisy. I am just trying to be on the lookout for expecting to much out of things. |
| "Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com>: Jan 18 06:41PM "Geo" <nhhu-o3hu@dea.spamcon.org> wrote in message news:8tsp9bh9c3o1fbep16neq2cftphi4evfl8@4ax.com... > "... this heater will only effectively heat water ABOVE, it is > important that the correct length be fitted, i.e. if an 18" heater is > used in a 36" cylinder only 45-50% of the water will be heated" Its square and not cylindrical, and the element is horizontal at the bottom - that may not accommodate as long an element as diagonal in a cylinder. There is another threaded bush half way up the tank that I could add a second element if I wanted to. |
| Geo <nhhu-o3hu@dea.spamcon.org>: Jan 19 08:54AM On Mon, 18 Jan 2016 18:41:40 -0000, "Ian Field" >Its square and not cylindrical, and the element is horizontal at the >bottom - that may not accommodate as long an element as diagonal in a >cylinder. OK - with you now. Some simulations here:- https://blogs.mentor.com/robinbornoff/blog/2014/12/19/domestic-hot-water-heating-wat-er-waste-of-energy-part-2-warm-up/ >There is another threaded bush half way up the tank that I could add a >second element if I wanted to. useful only if yiou want to keep water hot for handwashing etc without heating the whole tank. |
| Mike Tomlinson <mike@jasper.org.uk>: Jan 19 08:57AM En el artículo <teRmy.108034$a_7.92241@fx43.am4>, Ian Field <gangprobing >Thinking ahead just in case it blows............... You'll get a much better response in uk.d-i-y. sci.eletronics.repair is a rather weird place to ask a question about an immersion heater. -- (\_/) (='.'=) Bunny says: Windows 10? Nein danke! (")_(") |
| Geo <nhhu-o3hu@dea.spamcon.org>: Jan 19 12:15PM On Tue, 19 Jan 2016 08:57:36 +0000, Mike Tomlinson >You'll get a much better response in uk.d-i-y. sci.eletronics.repair is >a rather weird place to ask a question about an immersion heater. Yebbut you need so many filters - Harry, Roddy, Denis, Toughguy etc |
| Mike Tomlinson <mike@jasper.org.uk>: Jan 19 12:28PM En el artículo <l4as9bteecu0lep0ahs29broklbgjuv7ub@4ax.com>, Geo <nhhu- >Yebbut you need so many filters - Harry, Roddy, Denis, Toughguy etc Aye, that's true. Can't say I blame you :) -- (\_/) (='.'=) Bunny says: Windows 10? Nein danke! (")_(") |
| N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jan 19 12:32PM Nastly little magnetic tweeter/mids ? As a 47uF NP cap is over one, for mid? Anyway nasty buzzing overtone as though a bit of steel swarf or staple has got on the cone of a larger speaker. These things have brushed aluminium inverse dome covers on them, do they work loose, swarf dislodged inside? Of course close-handling has "cured" the problem, but bound to return without proper treatment |
| John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Jan 18 11:04PM -0800 If you have one of these the first thing to do is to check the lithium battery - time to replace it if not done in the last ten years. I found an easy way to extract the computer card by first removing the outer Com 1 connector and you can then use a long blade screwdriver through the exposed opening to unscrew the VGA, and Com 1 connectors more easily. Next the hard drive - you may be able to copy it over to a Compact Flash (CF) card (4GB should be plenty) and plug that into the backside of the computer PCB. Now you can also replace the printer connector with a dual USB port (V1.1) - just figure out where pin one goes and bend the bottom inside pin out of the way for polarized connectors. The USB connector on the computer card is on the top right just inside of the VGA socket on the PCB. Lastly extend the Ethernet cable and replace the Com 1 socket with that unless you really need the Com 1 port... Now you can print to a basic USB printer, use a flash memory card to extract the files, and connect the W2K machine to your shop network for even better backup capabilities. John :-#)# -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out." |
| John Heath <heathjohn2@gmail.com>: Jan 18 03:42PM -0800 > If the manufacturer starts this shit about taking out jumpers to measure bias current, fuck all that. Just do the math and calculate it from the emitter resistors. Take my word for it. > In fact I can adjust it with no spec. II can just feed it with low level program material and watch the waveform at the collector(s) of the voltage amp(s). The |¯|_|¯|_ in that waveform, produced when the feedback is taking care of the crossover distortion is the prime test point. Adjust bias to flatten that out, done. > However, going farther, that is biasing it harder, does have some merit. First of all it is not that much, and it also gives the amp more low power damping factor. Believe me I know the difference. I am not talking going into class A here, I think that is stupid. If you are going to go class A go all the way and go SE. Then for the most part you only got even order distortion. I have a digital AC power meter on my bench to monitor AC power consumption. It has many uses that I did not think of when buying it. It is useful for eyeballing idling current to see if it is creeping up into thermal runaway. I found it can also be used to set idling current. Adjust the bias pot until ac power starts to change. Then back it off to match the idling power for that type of amp. This saves a lot of time trying to measure the voltage drop across output emitter resisters. |
| John Heath <heathjohn2@gmail.com>: Jan 18 04:18PM -0800 On Sunday, January 17, 2016 at 11:59:22 PM UTC-5, Phil Allison wrote: > Can it be used with valves that have anode caps ? > Like the 6CM5, 6DQ6B, 807, 300B and 6146 types. > .... Phil That looks to be a very well built tube tester. Leave it to England to raise the bar , Britannia rules the waves and all that. I suspect it comes with a plug in anode top cap lead. Someone on ebay is selling one for 57 eur. Who in their right mind would pay that much for a piece of wire ?? http://www.ebay.ie/itm/AVO-CT160-and-VCM163-and-MK-3-and-4-top-cap-lead-original-valve-tube-tester-/331110707340 |
| Trevor Wilson <trevor@SPAMBLOCKrageaudio.com.au>: Jan 19 11:27AM +1100 On 19/01/2016 11:18 AM, John Heath wrote: >>>>> valve testers, uses only AC voltages for ALL supplies - >>>>> plates, screens and grids !! >>>>> http://www.radiomuseum.org/forum/tube_tester_avo_vcm_163_measurement_principle.html Expensive too, working examples go on Ebay for up to $3000. >> Like the 6CM5, 6DQ6B, 807, 300B and 6146 types. >> .... Phil > That looks to be a very well built tube tester. **It's better than "well built". Leave it to England > selling one for 57 eur. Who in their right mind would pay that much > for a piece of wire ?? > http://www.ebay.ie/itm/AVO-CT160-and-VCM163-and-MK-3-and-4-top-cap-lead-original-valve-tube-tester-/331110707340 **LOL. It's still probably less than what AVO used to sell them for. -- Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
| Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jan 18 06:00PM -0800 John Heath wrote: > change. Then back it off to match the idling power for that type of > amp. This saves a lot of time trying to measure the voltage drop > across output emitter resisters. ** I guess your meter reads in 1 watt increments ? I have been doing the same jobs with a 3.5 digit LED current meter that reads in 1mA or 10mA increments with a maximum display of 20amps in two ranges. It couples to the AC line via a Hall effect sensor that also provides a waveform output for a scope. It gets used with every repair job and is indispensable when working on valve or solid state amps. Makes it possible to diagnose some faults using only the readings and scope display - like high ESR main filter electros. There is also a safety bonus, a glance at the meter tells you if the AC power is really switched off. .... Phil |
| John Heath <heathjohn2@gmail.com>: Jan 18 07:16PM -0800 My power meter had a red 3 1/2 digital display with .1 watt to 199.9 watt and a switch for 1 to 1999 watt. It was directly connected to the mains through a current transformer , no hall effects. With .1 watt sensitivity I could tell if a VRC carriage was sticking when going up or down or if the tape guild pins had too much friction when going to play mode. Your idea of monitoring current on a scope opens up new possibilities. I could see how the ESR of the main filters condenser could be guessed at by monitoring the inrush current from a cold start. Interesting side note. Most smart phones have a 3D hall sensor to sense the orientation of the phone relative to north south poles. If you move a magnet over the back of the phone you can find the sweet spot where the 3D hall IC is located. Put an X on that spot and you have a DC current meter for free. Not the best current sensor but in a pinch it gets the job done. |
| Trevor Wilson <trevor@SPAMBLOCKrageaudio.com.au>: Jan 19 02:55PM +1100 On 18/01/2016 3:59 PM, Phil Allison wrote: >>>> valve testers, uses only AC voltages for ALL supplies - plates, >>>> screens and grids !! >>>> http://www.radiomuseum.org/forum/tube_tester_avo_vcm_163_measurement_principle.html Expensive too, working examples go on Ebay for up to $3000. > BTW: > Can it be used with valves that have anode caps ? > Like the 6CM5, 6DQ6B, 807, 300B and 6146 types. **Schematic sent. -- Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
| Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jan 18 09:13PM -0800 John Heath wrote: > Your idea of monitoring current on a scope opens up new possibilities. > I could see how the ESR of the main filters condenser could be guessed > at by monitoring the inrush current from a cold start. ** The way you tell is when running the amp into a load there is some, or a maybe lot of test frequency visible in the AC current wave. Normally you see only half sine pules of about 3mS duration at double the supply frequency with no higher frequencies visible if the electros are good. If you then go inside and scope the electros, there is excess ripple voltage and lots of test frequency visible on the main DC rail/s. You can also spot bad rectifiers ( valve or SS) if alternate current pulses are missing or weak. .... Phil |
| John Heath <heathjohn2@gmail.com>: Jan 18 04:31PM -0800 On Saturday, January 16, 2016 at 5:53:02 PM UTC-5, Michael Black wrote: > DOn't reply to old posts just because google lets you, don't reply to old > posts. > Michael Your baby finger is staying on the shift key too long leading to double capital letters such as ANd and DOn't. I'm not complaining here , just saying. |
| "Ralph Mowery" <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Jan 18 07:39PM -0500 "John Heath" <heathjohn2@gmail.com> wrote in message news:050a75eb-8686-4dbf-af4d-5065e404cdf6@googlegroups.com... >>Your baby finger is staying on the shift key too long leading to double >>capital >>letters such as ANd and DOn't. I'm not complaining here , just >>saying. I often have the same problem. |
| Kaz Kylheku <kaz@kylheku.com>: Jan 19 01:09AM > Your baby finger is staying on the shift key too long leading to > double capital letters such as ANd and DOn't. I'm not complaining here > , just saying. This is a problem with some keyboards that don't require the key to travel all the way down before making contact. This causes a release issue for Shift. I've tested this problem with a bunch of keyboards. The one I'm using now has the problem. Test case "Ru" typed using left-pinky-Shift-left-index-R; right index U: RuRURURURURURURURURURURURURURURURURuRuRURURURURURURURURURURURURURURURURURU. Mostly comes out wrong. I'm pretty sure I'm releasing the Shift before the u; it's just not actually releasing the moment the key cap rises from the bottom. This could be compensated in the operating system's driver. Or in an aplpication that works with raw scan codes. That is to say, a minimum "hold time" can be required in order for a Shift to affect a keystroke. Timing diagram: __x___ R ____/ \__________ __x___ U: ________/ \____ ____x___ Shift: _/ \___________ | | ->| |<-- t_hold The x marks when you're actually releasing it; the flat part after that is the delay to the actual release. Suppose t_hold between Shift and U is less than the configured minimum, then the shift is not considered to be in effect for U. |
| avagadro7@gmail.com: Jan 18 12:31PM -0800 > I have a insignia NS-39D400NA14.got good sound,tv comes on but the picture is only showing a blue screen with some faded lines through it they all do that https://www.google.com/search?site=imghp&tbm=isch&source=hp&biw=1524&bih=684&q=insignia+ns-39d400na14&oq=insignia+NS-39D400NA14&gs_l=img.1.0.0j0i24l4.3329.3329.0.12222.1.1.0.0.0.0.141.141.0j1.1.0....0...1ac..64.img..0.1.139.OBnvZTl_Tnw#imgrc=Qc6Oz0mB8V523M%3A |
| John-Del <ohger1s@aol.com>: Jan 18 12:59PM -0800 It's *always* a fuse. Keep trying them until you get a good one. |
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