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"Gareth Magennis" <sound.service@btconnect.com>: Jan 19 08:54PM "N_Cook" wrote in message news:n7la85$b2u$1@dont-email.me...   Nastly little magnetic tweeter/mids ? As a 47uF NP cap is over one, for mid? Anyway nasty buzzing overtone as though a bit of steel swarf or staple has got on the cone of a larger speaker. These things have brushed aluminium inverse dome covers on them, do they work loose, swarf dislodged inside? Of course close-handling has "cured" the problem, but bound to return without proper treatment             I take it you mean a shit hi-fi speaker with a one inch voice coil.   Have you checked it's not a Surround problem? i.e. the attachment to the outer rim of the chassis has failed. Or sometimes the dustcap itself comes loose and rattles. Or sometimes the bottom spider suspension becomes detached from the inner part of the chassis.       But mostly its because the owner has blown it, and there are burnt or loose pieces of voicecoil rubbing intermittently.     You might also check that the magnet hasn't become partially detached from the chassis. That's a good one for a pub story.       All the above much more likely than an otherwise foreign body entering the gap. In my experience.         Gareth.

"Gareth Magennis" <sound.service@btconnect.com>: Jan 19 11:13PM "N_Cook" wrote in message news:n7la85$b2u$1@dont-email.me...   Nastly little magnetic tweeter/mids ? As a 47uF NP cap is over one, for mid? Anyway nasty buzzing overtone as though a bit of steel swarf or staple has got on the cone of a larger speaker. These things have brushed aluminium inverse dome covers on them, do they work loose, swarf dislodged inside? Of course close-handling has "cured" the problem, but bound to return without proper treatment         You also might want to remount said speaker with that recommended to tighten cylinder head bolts, so it's flimsy chassis does not warp in the process.   Though I would guess you are very aware of this method already.   https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=cylinder+head+tightening+sequence&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&gws_rd=cr&ei=58KeVoeKKobbU8r1oIgO       Gareth.

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jan 20 08:07AM On 19/01/2016 20:54, Gareth Magennis wrote:   So far, 3 pages worth of images, I've not found any replacement ones available anywhere, 4ohm, presumably about 3W, actually 30mm not 1 inch diameter. So I'll unglue them and see what I can see

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jan 20 10:04AM First time I've been hands on these sorts of speakers. Tinsel wire pigtails are more circumferential rather than large speaker more axial/radial but evenly spaced so unlikely knocking against VC or surround, but I may decide on a dab of lacquer on those in case they are resonating in use and then touching, well hardly hifi speakers anyway. 26mm diameter metal part 31mm diameter plastic surround for the suspension and onward fixing. The glue may have softnened holding hte plastic surround into the body of the donut as very easy to remove, so hotmelt will go in there on replacement. Also one of the little crimp shoes came off very easily. I'll swap over the "mid" and "treble" ones, both 4R in series , so 8R to the amp , but 47uF over one of them. Amp is little fine pitched leadout flip chip for 4R bass speaker and 2x2 of these little speakers, bolted to a little vaned heatsink There is no slot in the magnet, just a cup it seems, so unlikely the VC is rubbing on anything and seems good bond to the cone/dome sounder section. Suspension looks good. I'll give a blast through with 1KW Martindale blower , hopefully dislodge any swarf inside the magnet cup and hope they survive that as still no like for like replacements found.

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jan 20 02:53PM I've decided it is pigtail problem. Looks as though they've taken up an unpowered position too close to the periphery plastic. Bent them all away from it and added a dot of lacquer on the terminal end of each pigtail, hopefully stopping the tails setting themselves back again.

Chris Jones <lugnut808@spam.yahoo.com>: Jan 20 12:21PM +1100 On 20/01/2016 02:18, Cursitor Doom wrote:   > http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10x-Mullard-Tropical-Fish- > Capacitors-47nF-0-047uF-250v-/360338287201?hash=item53e5d5ea61:m:mcN- > DqTXnkkcyUmSf_Gylog   Are those just polyester film caps?

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jan 20 08:10AM On 20/01/2016 01:21, Chris Jones wrote: >> Capacitors-47nF-0-047uF-250v-/360338287201?hash=item53e5d5ea61:m:mcN- >> DqTXnkkcyUmSf_Gylog   > Are those just polyester film caps?   No , the main feature is that they are brightly coloured to keep guitarist tweekers happy, as the visible colouration carries through to the tonal colouration.

Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Jan 20 11:17AM On Wed, 20 Jan 2016 08:10:18 +0000, N_Cook wrote:   > No , the main feature is that they are brightly coloured to keep > guitarist tweekers happy, as the visible colouration carries through to > the tonal colouration.   Ah, "high end audio." That explains why they cost so much.

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jan 20 11:43AM On 20/01/2016 11:17, Cursitor Doom wrote: >> guitarist tweekers happy, as the visible colouration carries through to >> the tonal colouration.   > Ah, "high end audio." That explains why they cost so much.   Also when the electrolyte leaks out, there is a much sweeter fishy smell than the usual rank temperate latitudes fishy smell of the cheap types of caps

Look165 <look165@numericable.fr>: Jan 20 01:43PM +0100 Electrolyte in polyester caps, are you drunk ?   You can find them at farnell.com   N_Cook a écrit :

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Jan 20 05:36AM -0800 On Tuesday, January 19, 2016 at 9:34:06 AM UTC-5, Cursitor Doom wrote: > similar footprint & pinout? I'm specifically interested in the 250V rated > types found in old 'scope smps.   > thanks   Mpfffff.... Within very basic parameters and manufacturing standards, a cap is a cap is a cap.   Apart from the mystery, smoke, mirrors and hokum surrounding "bumble-bee/tropical fish" caps and so forth, about any modern polyester film cap of decent manufacture is its *actually functional* equivalent.   Keeping in mind that the fuzz-box crowd is really looking for an R/C network rather than a cap, despite the schematic, why these too-often leaky caps are sought after becomes easier to explain. I have a neighbor down the block for whom I save my pulls and leakers of this nature. I try to tell him that all he really wants is a 1 or 2 meg resistor parallel to an 0.047 cap - but he wants it all in one package complete with a bakelite case.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

jurb6006@gmail.com: Jan 19 11:29PM -0800 Well now it is back. Now, it looks like a little over a mm. with the case on. I cannot think of an explanation for that right now.   I am starting to think there is something wrong with the grounds in this thing - or possibly these things.   I have run the sec/div in auto and uncalibrated, looking for the waveform that was coming from the PS. This really looks like pure noise. We got a spectrum analyser around here somewhere, but then where the hell should I hook it up ? The CRT plates ? Looking at it, that does not look easy but I could definitely find it on the board.   I might just take to using it for a time. The ONLY problem I can see is the 10 X, and I will eventually run that down. Just use the thing and be happy.

"David Farber" <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Jan 19 10:31PM -0800 David Farber wrote: > stack them if I can't measure the exact thickness before I buy them?) > and leave the CPU and GPU as is. What do you think about this? > Thanks for your replies.   Here is a follow up to what has happened since I posted this in October:   The new board which I ordered powered up but wouldn't POST or light up the monitor. I returned it and the eBay seller sent me a replacement and was kind enough to reimburse me for shipping.   The replacement board arrived. I plugged it in and all seemed good. I was quite happy. Then I noticed that the Windows battery charging icon was acting irregularly. It would show 100% for a second or two and then drop down to a much lower number. I knew the battery was old and didn't have much juice left so I ordered a new battery from Amazon and it arrived in less than a week. I tried it out and it was the same thing. However I now noticed that not only was the Windows charge remaining icon still reading erratically, the battery was not charging. Did I have another bad battery? I called a local retail store that specializes in all types of batteries. They had a replacement battery for this laptop. I asked the manager if I could try it first before buying it because I wasn't absolutely sure the one I had was defective. He said that fine with him. I drove to the store, plugged in the laptop on the display counter, and tried the new battery. It read about 55% charge remaining. After about 15 minutes, the charge remaining indicator hadn't budged. It stayed at 55%. I then unplugged the power adapter and watched the charge remaining indicator countdown to 50%, then 45%, and so on. I turned off the laptop, plugged the adapter back in, and waited to see if it would charge. By the way, when the battery was installed and the power adapter was plugged in, the charging light on the laptop always came on. I browsed around the store for about 15 minutes and then powered the laptop back on to see if there was any charging happening. The result was it hadn't charged at all. I knew then that the motherboard's charging circuit was defective. One used battery and two new batteries, (different brands) were not charging. To make sure the batteries I had were good, I installed the original motherboard with the no video display into the laptop and that did charge the batteries. I contacted the eBay seller and he wasn't thrilled to hear about my report. But he sent me a replacement after I returned the second one.   The third one arrived and of course it was as bad as the first one I received. It didn't POST or light up the monitor. I now began to question the seller about how could I get three, brand new, bad motherboards? He said he had had trouble with one of his suppliers but I was the only buyer that had recently complained. I still wanted to get a replacement board as long as it was NEW (I was beginning to have my doubts if any of these motherboards were new). The seller said he'd get back to me but he didn't. Time was passing by. He had my returned motherboard AND my money. I then emailed him a week later asking for a refund but I received an email from him that a new board had already been shipped to me. I waited for tracking info and never received it. And of course I didn't receive the 4th replacement motherboard either. That's the last I heard from the seller. I filed a claim with PayPal because eBay will only accept claims after 30 days. This had been going on for about 3 months. I had to call PayPal several times to make sure they were following up. Each time I was on hold for about an hour. Finally, my money was refunded to me but not the full amount. PayPal deducted the shipping reimbursement the seller had given me for my return shipping charges for the first motherboard.   On a brighter note, after getting tired of waiting for the fourth board to arrive, I used my economical eBay hot-air rework station and attempted to get the video on the original board working again. I really had nothing to lose. I used the largest diameter attachment that came with the kit, set the temp to around 350 degrees F, and then just kept the air moving around the area of the GPU chip and the peripheral components. I maybe did this for about 5 or 10 minutes, then turned it off and let it cool. I reassembled the board, plugged it in, and powered it up. It worked perfectly and has been working now for more than a month.   -- David Farber Los Osos, CA

John Heath <heathjohn2@gmail.com>: Jan 19 08:38PM -0800 On Monday, January 18, 2016 at 8:09:30 PM UTC-5, Kaz Kylheku wrote: > is the delay to the actual release.   > Suppose t_hold between Shift and U is less than the configured minimum, > then the shift is not considered to be in effect for U.   The one that gets me is the accidental hit of the capital lock key. You are typing without really looking at the monitor. You eventual look up to see that the last 2 sentences are all capitals caused by a careless pinky finger hitting the cap lock key. The cap lock key is just above the shift key so it is easy enough to do. Who designed the keyboard layout ?

John Heath <heathjohn2@gmail.com>: Jan 19 08:05PM -0800 On Tuesday, January 19, 2016 at 12:13:05 AM UTC-5, Phil Allison wrote:   > If you then go inside and scope the electros, there is excess ripple voltage and lots of test frequency visible on the main DC rail/s.   > You can also spot bad rectifiers ( valve or SS) if alternate current pulses are missing or weak.   > .... Phil   Interesting. There are always easier ways if you think about it long enough. Well done. Just thought of another one . Is the degassing coil working on a TV. Put an AC meter on a degassing coil in front of the TV then turn it on. If there is a burst of AC measured then the degassing coil is okay. The problem is they no longer make TVs that have degassing coils , ah.

"Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com>: Jan 19 06:59PM "Geo" <nhhu-o3hu@dea.spamcon.org> wrote in message news:haur9b10acanfd5c4t0napkct2p6ijjb9o@4ax.com... >>second element if I wanted to.   > useful only if yiou want to keep water hot for handwashing etc without > heating the whole tank.   A well insulated tank costs more to heat up from cold than keep topped up by the thermostat.   Not as bad heating half a tank from cold, but I'm guessing it would still cost slightly more.

MJC <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Jan 19 09:19PM In article <8Ivny.98086$Mi6.79973@fx35.am4>, gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com says...   > A well insulated tank costs more to heat up from cold than keep topped up by > the thermostat.   That is a meaningless comparison.   For any given tank, the energy you waste depends on how hot it is for how long. You will always waste less by letting it cool down. But that may be less convenient!   Mike.

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