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jurb6006@gmail.com: Mar 22 10:06PM -0700 On Tuesday, March 22, 2016 at 4:48:48 PM UTC-5, Top Cat wrote: > TF-1 > Tj' 21 (This could be TJt 21) > TOTOKU   Your best bet might be Henri at Asti Magnetics, but they have been bought out by PRB. I do not know what state they are in. (not geographically I mean condition sorta, oh wait, I also did forget what state they're in)   If they got old stock I am sure they will sell it.

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Mar 23 07:19AM On 22/03/2016 21:14, Top Cat wrote:   > The model is marked as "Toei GM-140 TV MONITOR". It was produced around 1979; or from 1976 onwards.   > My question is this: Can one retro/reverse engineer or somehow determine what modern equivalent could replace a flyback in this circumstance. Is this possible?   > Cheers in advance.   Is it purely for the raster, or LV supplies also. 1970s presumably just the former, so half a chance of near enough any LOPT of that time would do with a bit of jiggery-pokery. I've never looked inside a LOPT, are they epoxy filled of that era or still tar filled of the 60s era? Is the bakelite casing likely to contain asbestos fibre reinforcement if you hacked in to the casing, to check out the possibility of a rewind, at least "B&W" only voltages?

Bruce Esquibel <bje@ripco.com>: Mar 23 11:58AM > My question is this: Can one retro/reverse engineer or somehow determine > what modern equivalent could replace a flyback in this circumstance. Is > this possible?   Heh, I'm trying to figure out what you mean by "modern equivalent", seriously, does anyone still make flybacks?   NOS maybe.   How did you determine the flyback is bad? Did it burn up, pin hole or something?   You might have to end up doing an autopsy on it, try to figure out the pin assignments, take a guess for the winding taps and try to physically match to another.   For what it's worth, I'm pretty sure "Toei GM-140 TV MONITOR" had more to do with security monitors of the time than the game. Those monitors were designed and made for 24x7 operation and I think the early game makers used them since arcade style games more or less needed to survive similar punishment.   Is this the board?   http://notinmame.blogspot.com/2016/01/toei-gm-140tv-caplist-map.html   If it is, that does look like it's from a security monitor of the time and you might be better off looking for scraps of those, 9 times out of 10 the crt goes bad so the fb would still be ok.   -bruce bje@ripco.com

"Ralph Mowery" <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Mar 23 10:35AM -0400 "Top Cat" <thomas.is.topcat@googlemail.com> wrote in message news:f0c25a9c-c0db-46a1-bdd0-73ed997ad86f@googlegroups.com... I hope someone can help me.   I have an extremely old CRT attached to a Space Invaders B&W arcade cabinet. There is no available schematic, that I can find. The flyback has died but there is no modern replacement, mainly because the documentation for the historical model is non existent. So I dont know the input or output voltages, I have no circuit diagram, and I cannot find anything to determine what its input/output parameters can be. I do have the old flyback, I know the monitor size, and I have the actual circuit.   The model is marked as "Toei GM-140 TV MONITOR". It was produced around 1979; or from 1976 onwards.   My question is this: Can one retro/reverse engineer or somehow determine what modern equivalent could replace a flyback in this circumstance. Is this possible?     YOu may want the game to stay as it is, but if you just want to play the game, you may want to look at some of the converter boards made that will let you use a VGA type of display, either CRT or the newer LED types.

DaveC <not@home.cow>: Mar 22 10:23PM -0700 > battery voltage, no? So why would you use 4 volts which is at the > output? It would be 4 volts times the LED current or the battery > voltage times the input current. Rick   Yikes! Of course you're right.   Thanks.

"Ralph Mowery" <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Mar 23 10:31AM -0400 "rickman" <gnuarm@gmail.com> wrote in message news:nct5ah$v2h$1@dont-email.me... > battery voltage, no? So why would you use 4 volts which is at the output? > It would be 4 volts times the LED current or the battery voltage times the > input current.   From what small ammount of playing with the voltage converters, they are almost like a transformer in action. If you go to a higher voltage, the low voltage current will be a lot more than is used by the load, and if going to a lower voltage , the current from the battery will be less than the actual current used by the load. That keeps the total power drawn the same minus the efficency of the converter.

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Mar 23 04:48AM -0700 On Tuesday, March 22, 2016 at 11:59:02 AM UTC-4, Cydrome Leader wrote:   > prepaid credit card. Had to get an all new flashlight, but it worked out > in the end. Not sure how they deal with more expensive stuff like test > equipment.   My wife once upon a time collected Fiesta Ware pottery. As you (should) know, back in the day that Fiesta first started, many of the glazes used radioactive salts for certain colors including orange, green and a few others. So, I acquired a geiger counter, military surplus, for checking that possibility. Not that the stuff was passively harmful, just that one would not wish to serve food in those pieces that were radioactive. Well, the (Eveready) batteries leaked. I sent it off to Eveready, and about a week later, received a check for $357.32 (I DO remember that number), which represented the cost of that unit when new plus the cost of my shipping the item to them. That, along with a very nice note suggesting that batteries should be removed from expensive test equipment when it is not in use to avoid inconvenience. I went back to the same source I got the first counter, and replaced it with a Navy surplus device for $75, including shipping. I gave that to my son-in-law, as he and his dad collect items that involve glazes and glass, and I now have a Civil Defense kit including scintillators and several other testers that I purchased NIB at a municipal "yard sale" for $25. Works nicely.   I now also remove batteries from my "good" stuff if it is going down for more than a week or so.   https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fiesta_(dinnerware)   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Adrian Caspersz <email@here.invalid>: Mar 23 12:18PM >> "Just an FYI: Flukes generally carry a lifetime warranty -"   > Really. Does that apply to the 8000 series ? Buddy of mine has one the batteries leaked all over and now it acts erratic. We have NOT modified the unit, just took out the batteries. If that is under warranty hell, we'll send it in !   http://en-us.fluke.com/support/warranties/   "Industrial Products Limited Lifetime Warranty   "Lifetime is defined as seven years after Fluke discontinues manufacturing the product, but the warranty period shall be at least ten years from date of purchase. *(Lifetime Warranty applies to products manufactured after October 1996"     -- Adrian C

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Mar 23 06:15AM -0700 On Wednesday, March 23, 2016 at 8:18:27 AM UTC-4, Adrian Caspersz wrote: > manufactured after October 1996"   > -- > Adrian C   All true. But my direct experience with Fluke is that they will send on the "next best thing" when a piece is unfixable. NOTE: they have fixed, also in my direct experience, some pretty sick puppies.   Zippo will repair their lighters similarly, even if it is only a strike wheel that remains of the old device. Their factory tour (Bradford, PA) goes by the repair room where these lighters come in - and the dedicated (in every way) staff that does the repairs. A fascinating operation. Many here could learn a few things. I certainly did.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Mar 23 07:13AM On 22/03/2016 21:46, Gareth Magennis wrote:   > Cheers,   > Gareth.   I use a ,noisy, 1KW Martindale blower on dusty chassis, only the grease stays in place after a quick session with that, outdoors of course.

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Mar 23 08:01AM I just looked up the specs on these, no wonder noisey, 381mph wind with this 1.5HP version

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Mar 23 05:20AM -0700 On Tuesday, March 22, 2016 at 5:47:07 PM UTC-4, Gareth Magennis wrote: > not sure about the local tyre pump mechanism thingy to charge it.   > Cheers,   > Gareth.   First, keep a few things in mind.   a) Charging a tire in the field is an entirely different concept than what you want. Air is subject to Boyle's Law, and the tank size you suggest would either require a dangerous amount of pressure in it, or not have enough to be useful for more than a minute or two - put another way, one minute less than necessary 100% of the time.   b) Most "gas station thingys" do not have either filters or dryers on them. Meaning that the air you are getting will contain a good deal of moisture, which will also build up in the tank at each charge. If you use a commercial compressor, it will also discharge a certain amount of lubricant into the air. Neither moisture nor lubricants are any good for electronics.   c) As Mr. Allison pointed out rightfully, "canned air" is actually a compressed liquid, usually 1,1,1,2-tetrafluoroethane, is neither air nor designed for your purpose. When a liquid changes phase to a gas, and when that gas is decompressed, it loses heat (gets cold, the principle of refrigeration). So, "Canned Air" comes on strong, and after a very short time slows down as the evaporation reduces due to temperature loss.   With all that in mind, if you want to do what you suggest using compressed air, then invest in "doing it right". Obtain an inexpensive tank-mounted oil-less compressor *NAME BRAND* (I have a US-made reconditioned (by and from) Stanley). Obtain a Filter/Dryer (one of a great many is linked). Then, get a variety of fittings for different applications. My most useful is a flexible-wand device, very thin, that I can reach into very tight places and give moderate blasts of air. Mine fits behind/under the bench, and other than startling the cats when it runs, is practically invisible. I have linked a similar compressor to the one I have, but with a higher profile. The price is right, however.   Now consider all the other things a good compressor will do for you. Spray paint, particle blasting, run nail guns or staplers, start DynaJet engines quickly and safely. I use mine to blow out the water pipes at our summer house before winter. Works like a charm. Fill tires, automotive or bicycle, pressurize pipes for testing purposes, testing miniature steam engines, and much more. And, you can purchase after-market rechargeable spray cans, of course.   http://www.amazon.com/Compressed-desiccant-combination-EQUIPEMENT-COMPRESSOR/dp/B00UEUYHOG   http://www.amazon.com/BOSTITCH-BTFP02011-6-Gallon-Oil-Free-Compressor/dp/B00BF4VQ44   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Gyq3OSwUN8   http://forum.12ozprophet.com/threads/rechargeable-can.137582/   Sorry for the rant, but what is desirable is not always practical, and what is practical is not always convenient. This is a nice example of that. After purchasing a compressor in anticipation of a major carpentry project - restoring our summer house after a flood - I am continuously surprised at the number of additional uses I find for it. The summer house is now raised by 8', no more floods.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

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