sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Google Groups

Bruce Esquibel <bje@ripco.com>: Mar 24 11:43AM > All true. But my direct experience with Fluke is that they will send on > the "next best thing" when a piece is unfixable. NOTE: they have fixed, > also in my direct experience, some pretty sick puppies.   Yeah I don't think the warranty they lived by early on was anything to write home about. Somewhere in time I dropped some good coin on a 97 scope meter and within 3 years of owning it, the backlight for the display went out, the battery pack didn't charge anymore and eventually (using it as a bench meter of sorts at that point) the charging wart failed.   They wanted somewhere around $300 for a repair on everything and I just didn't think it was worth it. I found another ac adapter at a hamfest (remember those?) and continued to use it but these days it's in a box buried in the basement somewhere.   > goes by the repair room where these lighters come in - and the dedicated > (in every way) staff that does the repairs. A fascinating operation. Many > here could learn a few things. I certainly did.   This is what I really wanted to comment on, those guys really do that.   I had a plain chrome lighter (but engraved) someone gave me years ago and pretty much was a daily use item, always carried it around and in use. It didn't "click" anymore, that steel spring thing was broke, the hinge was loose (you needed 2 hands to use it at that point) and the fence/wheel was blackend with use along with the wheel being wobbly.   One day while trying to slide it back in my pocket I missed, it bounced off the wood stairs I was on and fell over the edge onto concrete basement stairs.   At the bottom it was in peices, everything just fell apart.   So I knew about the "no matter what" lifetime warranty, filled out the form from the website and mailed it in. I figure they would say something like, are you nuts or something but surprise, surprise, in a about 3 weeks it was returned, totally repaired and even came in a new box and old parts thrown in as well.   No charge.   I mean it's just a lighter but I can't think of another company or product that is backed up by a real lifetime warranty like that. Someone should give Zippo an award or something.   -bruce bje@ripco.com

legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Mar 24 07:21AM -0500 On Fri, 18 Mar 2016 10:37:46 -0500, legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca> wrote:   <snip>   >The blemishes you're chasing may have nothing to do with actual fault.   >The spatter pattern is also suggestive of the impact from an external >source, such as a flicked paint brush.   Also, it brings to mind patterns produced by spatter from a contaminated air hose jet.   RL

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Mar 23 11:32AM -0700 On 03/23/2016 7:35 AM, Ralph Mowery wrote:   > YOu may want the game to stay as it is, but if you just want to play the > game, you may want to look at some of the converter boards made that will > let you use a VGA type of display, either CRT or the newer LED types.   I have Taito B&W monitor schematics that I am trying to scan, they are old blueprints and they have turned VERY blue, so my colour scanner is having a bit of trouble.   Email me and I will send you what I have...   John :-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

Mike Tomlinson <mike@jasper.org.uk>: Mar 24 05:37AM En el artículo <nctfs6$nl7$1@dont-email.me>, N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk> escribió:   >Is it purely for the raster, or LV supplies also. 1970s presumably just >the former   I would have thought any monitor of that era would have a separate LOPT and tripler module, so is the OP's problem the LOPT or the tripler?   OP: A few photos would help. Speaks a thousand words.   -- (\_/) (='.'=) # ik ben Brussel (")_(")

Look165 <look165@numericable.fr>: Mar 24 09:20AM +0100 First a visual inspection gives many informations   Seond, try to check the basics (Transistors, power resistors, blown fuses, electrolytic caps and diodes)   Fixing this thing is better than trying a replacement.   Top Cat a écrit :

Top Cat <thomas.is.topcat@googlemail.com>: Mar 24 01:33AM -0700 > > TOTOKU   > Your best bet might be Henri at Asti Magnetics, but they have been bought out by PRB. I do not know what state they are in. (not geographically I mean condition sorta, oh wait, I also did forget what state they're in)   > If they got old stock I am sure they will sell it.   Thank you, Have have reached out to them. I'll keep you posted.

Top Cat <thomas.is.topcat@googlemail.com>: Mar 24 01:35AM -0700 On Wednesday, March 23, 2016 at 7:19:37 AM UTC, N_Cook wrote: > still tar filled of the 60s era? Is the bakelite casing likely to > contain asbestos fibre reinforcement if you hacked in to the casing, to > check out the possibility of a rewind, at least "B&W" only voltages?   Hi, I believe it's filled with epoxy. I'll try and post some pict in the next few hours. I initially thought about a rewind, but was put off with how accurate they had to be. And many appeared to need machines etc. Sounded beyond my capabilities, perhaps. I'm hoping I could find an alternate model that works maybe. :)

Top Cat <thomas.is.topcat@googlemail.com>: Mar 24 01:39AM -0700 On Wednesday, March 23, 2016 at 11:58:30 AM UTC, Bruce Esquibel wrote: > you might be better off looking for scraps of those, 9 times out of 10 the > crt goes bad so the fb would still be ok.   > -bruce     hehe, Hi Brue, you're right. when I say modern, I guess I mean newer. :) The flyback smokes when switched on. So considered dead. Yes, you're right too that the Teoi were used in security and medical applications too at the time. The image is the very same PCB and flyback. I will post as many pictures as I can later today. You're right, that maybe a working replacement may be the way forward, if I can't solve the issue. Cheers

Top Cat <thomas.is.topcat@googlemail.com>: Mar 24 01:42AM -0700 On Wednesday, March 23, 2016 at 2:30:45 PM UTC, Ralph Mowery wrote:       > YOu may want the game to stay as it is, but if you just want to play the > game, you may want to look at some of the converter boards made that will > let you use a VGA type of display, either CRT or the newer LED types.   I think you've hit the nail on the head, in terms of wanting to keep it as original as possible. I realise that may not be possible eventually, but I so want to try. I have bought a converter ready, and tested it but could not for the life of me get an image to show. Maybe there are other issues too that need attention. But I'll try (against my poor judgement) to focus on one issue at a time. I am so bad at flitting between several things, it's untrue.

Top Cat <thomas.is.topcat@googlemail.com>: Mar 24 01:44AM -0700 > (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) > www.flippers.com > "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."   Hi John, if I could look at what you have that might be the answer to my prayers. I can't find your e-mail though. Am I being dense? Is it glaring at me somewhere? Cheers.

Top Cat <thomas.is.topcat@googlemail.com>: Mar 24 01:45AM -0700 On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 5:43:02 AM UTC, Mike Tomlinson wrote: > (\_/) > (='.'=) # ik ben Brussel > (")_(")   I'll post as many photo's as I can later today. Cheers Mike,

Top Cat <thomas.is.topcat@googlemail.com>: Mar 24 01:46AM -0700 On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 8:20:10 AM UTC, Look165 wrote:   > Fixing this thing is better than trying a replacement.   > Top Cat a écrit : > > I hope someone can help me.   I'll post some asap. Thanks.

Top Cat <thomas.is.topcat@googlemail.com>: Mar 24 01:47AM -0700 On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 8:20:10 AM UTC, Look165 wrote:   > Fixing this thing is better than trying a replacement.   > Top Cat a écrit : > > I hope someone can help me.   I'll try and repair all I can, but fear that the Flyback may be beyone my capability. I'll work on it though, thank you. :)

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Mar 23 11:11AM -0700 >> Also, I just noticed that there is no such thing as an individual 1.5w LED.   >I think this is an under-used(?) 1W LED.   Sounds about right. If you can light it up, just measure the battery current drain, and calculate or estimate the power dissipation.   >unit. That way can dissipate some W. >But that presents its own set of problems. Optics will need to be matched to >the new LED.   If you can remove what I believe to be a lens, I think you'll find that the actual LED is rather conventional and can be found in the Cree catalog. <http://www.cree.com/LED-Components-and-Modules/Products> If you sort the above list by power output, there are only 3ea 1w LED's listed. Just find the right die size and good luck soldering the tiny chip. You can also dig throught the current flashlight offerings and see which 1w chips are popular.   >Hmm...   Learn by Destroying.... then buy a new flashlight.     -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

DaveC <not@home.cow>: Mar 23 11:52AM -0700 On 22 Mar 2016, DaveC wrote > Rick     > Yikes! Of course you're right.   > Thanks.     Just measured working light of same model: using power supply @1.5v (measured at flashlight battery terminals), the current from the ps is 400 mA. Estimating 75 percent efficiency that makes about 450 mW.   So a 1/2W replacement LED might be what I'm looking for.   Thanks.

DaveC <not@home.cow>: Mar 23 09:50PM -0700 > LED's listed. Just find the right die size and good luck soldering > the tiny chip. You can also dig throught the current flashlight > offerings and see which 1w chips are popular. [Jeff Lieberman]   I found these:   https://www.led-tech.de/en/0.5W-Power-LEDs_DB-86.pdf   Looks good, no?

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Mar 23 10:49PM -0700 >> the tiny chip. You can also dig throught the current flashlight >> offerings and see which 1w chips are popular. >[Jeff Lieberman]   Please deduct one point for spelling my name wrong.   >I found these: >https://www.led-tech.de/en/0.5W-Power-LEDs_DB-86.pdf >Looks good, no?   No. I thought you said your flashlight was bright and possibly 1 watt. Those are common 5mm LED's with 0.5 watts maximum. <https://www.google.com/search?q=5mm+white+led+0.5+watts> These photos look very much like what I would expect to be hiding under what I believe to be a lens of some sorts: <https://www.google.com/search?q=5mm+white+led+0.5+watts&tbm=isch> This looks a bit closer: <http://www.ebay.com/itm/161246348498>   That data sheet is also slightly insane, specifying the luminous flux as: Lumen typ.: 19 mcd Lumens are measured in umm.... lumens, not millicandelas. It is possible to convert between lumens and mcd's using the viewing angle: <http://www.rapidtables.com/calc/light/mcd-to-lumen-calculator.htm> Anyway, 19 lumens is not very bright but probably good enough for a pocket flashlight.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Fred McKenzie <fmmck@aol.com>: Mar 23 02:52PM -0400 In article <l3jIy.105403$lz.74663@fx44.am4>, > can charge this with your local tyre pump".   > I've found lots of portable air tanks aimed at Motorsports, but I'm really > not sure about the local tyre pump mechanism thingy to charge it.   Gareth-   I can't find it now, but I have a small canister that may be what you are describing. It is slightly larger than a spray paint can, and holds a little less than a quart. The problem with it, is that it does not hold enough air to be practical. I think its main value would be for use as a liquid sprayer. Again, it does not hold enough air, and would need frequent re-charging!   The canister has a valve assembly that unscrews from the tank, so you could fill the tank with a liquid you wanted to spray.   It has a push-button valve on top, to spray the air or liquid. There is a fill valve like the one on an auto tire (tyre), as well as a pressure relief valve. I think it could easily be filled with a bicycle hand pump. A filling station air pump might have too high a pressure for the relief valve.   I have had it for many years. I got it to use for things like blowing dust. However, I did not need to blow dust very often, so I eventually forgot about it!   Fred

Bob Engelhardt <BobEngelhardt@comcast.net>: Mar 23 05:30PM -0400 On 3/22/2016 7:51 PM, (PeteCresswell) wrote: > If you want *really* small, start Googling "Paint Ball Guns". The > paint ball people who do not use CO2 use compressed air and the tanks > are quite small - yet hold something like 800 PSI.   You aren't going to refill to 800 psi at the local garage!

"Gareth Magennis" <soundserviceleeds@outlook.com>: Mar 24 12:01AM wrote in message news:6beb97dd-2bbd-4af8-b98f-6643afa0eac8@googlegroups.com...   On Tuesday, March 22, 2016 at 5:47:07 PM UTC-4, Gareth Magennis wrote: > not sure about the local tyre pump mechanism thingy to charge it.   > Cheers,   > Gareth.   First, keep a few things in mind.   a) Charging a tire in the field is an entirely different concept than what you want. Air is subject to Boyle's Law, and the tank size you suggest would either require a dangerous amount of pressure in it, or not have enough to be useful for more than a minute or two - put another way, one minute less than necessary 100% of the time.   b) Most "gas station thingys" do not have either filters or dryers on them. Meaning that the air you are getting will contain a good deal of moisture, which will also build up in the tank at each charge. If you use a commercial compressor, it will also discharge a certain amount of lubricant into the air. Neither moisture nor lubricants are any good for electronics.   c) As Mr. Allison pointed out rightfully, "canned air" is actually a compressed liquid, usually 1,1,1,2-tetrafluoroethane, is neither air nor designed for your purpose. When a liquid changes phase to a gas, and when that gas is decompressed, it loses heat (gets cold, the principle of refrigeration). So, "Canned Air" comes on strong, and after a very short time slows down as the evaporation reduces due to temperature loss.   With all that in mind, if you want to do what you suggest using compressed air, then invest in "doing it right". Obtain an inexpensive tank-mounted oil-less compressor *NAME BRAND* (I have a US-made reconditioned (by and from) Stanley). Obtain a Filter/Dryer (one of a great many is linked). Then, get a variety of fittings for different applications. My most useful is a flexible-wand device, very thin, that I can reach into very tight places and give moderate blasts of air. Mine fits behind/under the bench, and other than startling the cats when it runs, is practically invisible. I have linked a similar compressor to the one I have, but with a higher profile. The price is right, however.   Now consider all the other things a good compressor will do for you. Spray paint, particle blasting, run nail guns or staplers, start DynaJet engines quickly and safely. I use mine to blow out the water pipes at our summer house before winter. Works like a charm. Fill tires, automotive or bicycle, pressurize pipes for testing purposes, testing miniature steam engines, and much more. And, you can purchase after-market rechargeable spray cans, of course.   http://www.amazon.com/Compressed-desiccant-combination-EQUIPEMENT-COMPRESSOR/dp/B00UEUYHOG   http://www.amazon.com/BOSTITCH-BTFP02011-6-Gallon-Oil-Free-Compressor/dp/B00BF4VQ44   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Gyq3OSwUN8   http://forum.12ozprophet.com/threads/rechargeable-can.137582/   Sorry for the rant, but what is desirable is not always practical, and what is practical is not always convenient. This is a nice example of that. After purchasing a compressor in anticipation of a major carpentry project - restoring our summer house after a flood - I am continuously surprised at the number of additional uses I find for it. The summer house is now raised by 8', no more floods.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA         That might be your experience, I just want to blow the dust off heatsinks every now and again.   I don't have a Summer House.         Gareth.

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Mar 23 05:15PM -0700 On Wednesday, March 23, 2016 at 8:01:33 PM UTC-4, Gareth Magennis wrote:   > I don't have a Summer House.   > Gareth.   Dust + nicotine/kitchen grease/smoke/creosote = nothing what you describe could handle. Point being, as stated, what is desired is not practical, what is practical may not be convenient. FULL STOP.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

junebug1701 <junebug1701@gmail.com>: Mar 23 06:01PM -0700 On Tuesday, March 22, 2016 at 4:47:07 PM UTC-5, Gareth Magennis wrote: > not sure about the local tyre pump mechanism thingy to charge it.   > Cheers,   > Gareth.   All you need is an old refrigerant (freon) tank and a REFRIGERANT TANK CONVERSION KIT. I bought one of these years ago, and a friend gave me an empty freon tank. It consists of an adapter, valve, pressure gauge, and hose. You can fill it with any compressor and take it with you. I wouldn't fill mine more than about 150psi, but it worked great until I dropped something on it and broke the valve. I just found a kit on Ebay:   http://www.ebay.com/itm/REFRIGERANT-TANK-CONVERSION-KIT-TANK-ADAPTER-KIT-SG-94650t-/251278903428   And a photo of a typical tank, which can usually be gotten for free if you ask an A/C man:   http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41IwvEpnrhL.jpg

Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: Mar 23 08:07PM -0700 Unless I'm misunderstanding, what you want is widely available.   I lived in Germany for 5 years. I work for the US Army and where they send me I say yes sir.   In Germany you don't drag a hose to your car tires. Instead, you lift a small bottle off the compressor quick disconnect and walk to each tire. The bottle usually holds enough to pump up each tire. If you are unusually low you might have to set the bottle back on the compressor until it refills.   Google Airquick or go here:   http://ewo-stuttgart.com/garage-equipment/tyre-inflators/

Jon Elson <jmelson@wustl.edu>: Mar 23 02:09PM -0500 > that such an old system would have recognized anything like that. And Jurb > I too have never seen where you get dial tone back when someone hangs up. > I think its purely theatrical. Lenny I think #5 ESS goes back to dial tone when the line is disconnected from the calling party. Sometimes I hang on for a while to see if a disconnected call call from a family member can reestablish the connection.   (And, I THINK we are still on #5 ESS, but the phone co. could have very well swapped out the switch at some time.)     I know that my old answering machine will drop the line when it detects this signal. I think my NEC PBX will drop hold on the line, too.   Jon

junebug1701 <junebug1701@gmail.com>: Mar 23 06:08PM -0700 > I have this old Western Electric Comkey 416 (circa 1976) analog key telephone system in my house. With two primary sets and the remainder being slaves the system can handle 4 lines and 16 extensions. The sets all connect onto 66 blocks with 25 pair cable. Yes it's antiquated but it does music on hold and intercom and serves our needs.   > Lately I have noticed something peculiar. If I'm speaking with another party and I put them on hold the system will stay on hold indefinitely. However if I put them on hold and they eventually hang up my system will eventually go back on hook by itself. How can it do this? As far as I know this is just a "dumb system. How could it know that the other party hung up and then to release the line. I seriously doubt that they had the technology to do this in 1975. Maybe someone (like an Ex telephone guy) might know if Western Electric could have built anything that sophisticated into this system in 1975 to detect anything like a kiss off, (I'm guessing) from the CO. Thanks, Lenny   I worked for a Bell System company in the '70's and '80's. There was (and still is) a signal called "answer supervision" that is pretty much a battery reversal as Jon Elson described earlier. All but the cheapest PBX and key systems of the time would recognize that signal when a party answered and hung up their phone.

You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.