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"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>: Mar 31 04:20AM -0400 Jeff Liebermann wrote: > cool down slowly. I don't know if that was necessary, but it worked > every time. I'm told that two solding irons used as a tweezer also > works, but I haven't tried that yet.   How were the new caps stored? If it is where they can adsorb moisture, you can damage them with an iron that is too hot.

Andre Majorel <cheney@halliburton.com>: Mar 31 10:40AM > Sorry for the delay but I missed the followups to my comment.   Not at all. That was very interesting. Thanks Jeff and everyone.   -- André Majorel http://www.teaser.fr/~amajorel/ J'ai des vrais problèmes, vous avez des faux problèmes.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Mar 31 08:34AM -0700 On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 04:20:59 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell" >> works, but I haven't tried that yet.   >How were the new caps stored? If it is where they can adsorb >moisture, you can damage them with an iron that is too hot.   Well, I must admit that I didn't take any special precautions. Methinks that the relative humidity in my office runs between 40% and 60% but is not monitored or recorded. Occasionally, it gets low enough to where static electricity becomes a problem, or high enough to where I'm rather uncomfortable, but those are rare. The caps a mix of cut tape and loose bags stored in Ziploc bags (mostly pink anti-static) and in paper coin envelopes. Nothing in hard plastic or metal drawers that might chip or crack them. Although I know that these caps make tolerable hydrometers (and microphones), I don't think they can absorb enough moisture from the air to where a steam explosion would be a problem.   I did some digging to see if humidity might be a problem in storage conditions. There were plenty of notes on how a cracked capacitor might allow water to enter the dielectric. Soft (solder) termination is the recommended fix. Some suggests pre-heating the capacitors before soldering to drive off any moisture. One demands that the caps be used within 12 months. I didn't see humidity as being a problem until AFTER the capacitors had cracked. It would take some time for the moisture to alter the capacitor characteristics. With my hand soldering technique, I managed to instantly produce shorted capacitors, which methinks was more likely due to uneven thermal expansion, than to moisture incursion.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

"Bob F" <bobnospam@gmail.com>: Mar 31 07:25AM -0700 Andy Burns wrote: >>> cleaning, then how to deal with that.?   > Is it a solid dish or a mesh one? I don't think I'd be bothered to > repair a dish unless it's something special, buy a new one for £20-30.   Or pick up an unwanted used one via freecycle or craigslist.

gehan.ameresekere@gmail.com: Mar 31 05:01AM -0700 I have an audio amplifier speaker like the one pictured in the conversion below:   http://mightyohm.com/blog/tag/wireless/   It does not work, need help in troubleshooting this one.   Disconneced AC power and connected a battery to the terminals - no sound.

gehan.ameresekere@gmail.com: Mar 31 05:02AM -0700 > http://mightyohm.com/blog/tag/wireless/   > It does not work, need help in troubleshooting this one.   > Disconneced AC power and connected a battery to the terminals - no sound.   Will post pictures

"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>: Mar 31 03:26AM -0400 N_Cook wrote: > Had another go at trying to find a user manual for a classic 2014, specs > yes, but no user manual to explain about that toggle switch, mute/boost > or normal/boost variants     Don't they have music stores in your country? They show you how to operate that type of equipment, over here.

"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>: Mar 31 12:18AM -0400 > Y'know, when I was in school they gave me this test. Turns out I was in the 99th percentile in mechanical reasoning.     Only two students in my school system got every question right on that part of the aptitude tests. Myself, and a girl who like to work on cars. I also got the top scores in math and science. I only got a 90 for English. I took every math, science and shop class that they could fit into my schedule, each year. Several years later I tested out of an Electronics Engineering school while serving in the U.S. Army. I've worked with very intelligent people who only finished high school, and I've had the misfortune of working with those who can pass tests but who are so @#$%^&* stupid that they set the shop on fire with a soldering iron.

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Mar 30 10:35AM -0700 On Tuesday, March 29, 2016 at 5:35:00 PM UTC-4, Gareth Magennis wrote:   > I usually brush off what I can before resorting to using my lungs and > blowing off the remaining inaccessible stuff. > Trouble is this always ends up with some in my lungs and nasal passages.   I dunno - VW for years drove their window washing system from the spare tire (anyone else remember those days?). It was always a memory contest to make sure to refill the tire, or be stranded by the side of the road as the air lines often leaked. Tires were not-so-good in those days as well.   If all you need is that one lungful, consider a small portable tankless compressor ($15 at your nearest auto-supply) and a refillable aerosol can. No more than 100psi in most cases, but it would do what you lungs can do. For that matter, you could fill such a can from the tire, a double-schraeder fill fitting is cheap enough to fabricate.   Betcha if you do this, you _will_ wish for more...   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: Mar 30 10:52AM -0700 > If all you need is that one lungful, consider a small portable tankless compressor ($15 at your nearest auto-supply) and a refillable aerosol can.   Do they make those? I could fill it from a bicycle pump.

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Mar 30 11:23AM -0700 On Wednesday, March 30, 2016 at 1:52:14 PM UTC-4, Tim R wrote: > On Wednesday, March 30, 2016 at 1:35:34 PM UTC-4, pf...@aol.com wrote:   > > If all you need is that one lungful, consider a small portable tankless compressor ($15 at your nearest auto-supply) and a refillable aerosol can.   > Do they make those? I could fill it from a bicycle pump.   http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41atX8vvK3L.jpg   They sure do. Not much use for high volumes or high pressures, but portable and not overly expensive. The one linked is about US$18 or so. You will note that the one linked also states that it is NOT to be used as a duster. Further research will tell you that this is because there is a tendency to vastly over-pressurize if used for this purpose. Go up in price, and you can get one rated for air only.   http://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Pneumatic-Refillable-Pressure-Sprayer/dp/B00JKED4MS/ref=pd_sim_86_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=31d3TD-aEQL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1BJBMAA596F3ND47C2BK   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

"Ron D." <Ron.Dozier@gmail.com>: Mar 30 07:52PM -0700 Way back when, maybe 40+ years ago, I was a kid and there was a CO2 tank in the junkyard. Big and heavy. You won't find tanks in the junkyard anymore because of regulations.   I pump it up to about 160 PSI with a male to male coupler. I also have a valve to safely vent it before disconnecting.   My "compressor" has a small tank and is stationary. I can fill the tank and adjust the air in the car tires, but it doesn't last long.   A compressor (reed based) used for an airbrush would work for your application.

Trevor Wilson <trevor@SPAMBLOCKrageaudio.com.au>: Mar 31 07:26AM +1100 > the closest thing to a super-conductor at any reasonable operating > temperature as exists in nature, much better than copper (or gold), > and so such fuses ought to be considered.   **Perhaps.   > (both stands included).   > But, a fuse on a $3,500 speaker?   > Wouldn't you?   **I am 62 years old. I've been listening a sound system since I built my first one at age 17. In my 20s, I purchased my first home and proceeded to assemble a sound system to please myself and my friends at various parties. It also drove my neighbours a little nuts. This is the amplifier I used to drive my KEF transimssion lines (rated at 50 Watts) at many, many drunken parties:   http://audio-database.com/MARANTZ/amp/model500-e.html   I still own the best, but no longer use it. I certainly don't operate my sound system at the kinds of levels I once did. I also use vastly more sophisticated amplification nowadays (soft clipping, soft current limiting, etc).   In my entire 45 years of listening, I only ever damaged one of the B139 drivers. The reason the driver failed was due to poor assembly at the KEF factory. So, no. I would not put a fuse on a speaker of MINE. I don't damage speakers. For all intents, I never have. For customers, the situation is different. For headbangers, I will certainly suggest the use of polyswitches or fuses, as the safety outweighs any potential downside. I would certainly not install a fuse or Polyswitch in any high end system, unless the client and I decided it was prudent. I did so with these speakers, after long consultation with a client however:   http://elac.ro/elac%20x-jet%203.jpg (exploded diagram of the mid/HF driver)   The HF element (equivalent to a Heil unit) had failed, after his children accessed his hi fi) was not repairable. A new driver had to be sourced at almost AUS$1,000.00.   So yes, I fitted Polyswitches to protect the drivers.     -- Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au   --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

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