- Weller gun tips - 2 Updates
- 1960s-1970s Telephone Repair - 7 Updates
- For those with Fluke Handheld DVMs - 1 Update
| "Ralph Mowery" <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Apr 12 10:20AM -0400 "Jeff Liebermann" <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote in message news:46qogb5dmughql5i3va75mmdm31j6o1bog@4ax.com... > Find a cheap replacement tip and sell it and the gun. Buy a soldering > iron and some desoldering tools. More free advice after you disclose > what you're trying to solder/unsolder/destroy. There are plenty of times that I grab my 50 year old Weller gun. Just can not beat it when I want to solder a couple of antenna wires and don't want to wait on my 100 watt iron to heat and cool down. Those puney PC board irons will not hold enough heat to solder a pl259 coax connector. I have used one to solder to a PC board,but the irons are usually beter. I guess that I did remember correctly that there were some tips that were sort of flat on the ends instead of having that bump on the end where you soldered. The older ones that the ends are bent to an L shape and go through the nuts are the best. The newer ones with the screws that go in the sides are crap. One of my larger guns is that way. Works ok of you take the tip out and clean the connections, but most of the time it will work loose and not heat as well. I ran some tests on the current "wattage" used by the guns and found that it was almost half when the connections were bad. |
| Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Apr 12 08:46AM -0700 On Tue, 12 Apr 2016 10:20:51 -0400, "Ralph Mowery" >There are plenty of times that I grab my 50 year old Weller gun. I don't own a soldering gun. I abandoned soldering guns about 40 years ago and never looked back. When I "inherit" one, I clean it up, install a new tip, and either sell or donate it. Instead, I have a variety of soldering irons and tips. If I need to do something big, I have two big copper chisel tips, a few odd irons, and a benchtop propane furnace, like these: <http://stellartechnical.com/101benchfurnace.aspx> I use these mostly for sheet metal work, where bigger is better. >Just can >not beat it when I want to solder a couple of antenna wires and don't want >to wait on my 100 watt iron to heat and cool down. I don't solder my wire antennas, so that's not a problem for me. Soldering interferes with my ability to make changes in lengths. >Those puney PC board >irons will not hold enough heat to solder a pl259 coax connector. I use a Weller TC-201/202 with a 750F 1/4"(?) chisel tip. It takes about 5 minutes to warm up and does a good job with coax connectors. >I have >used one to solder to a PC board,but the irons are usually beter. Yep. >I guess that I did remember correctly that there were some tips that were >sort of flat on the ends instead of having that bump on the end where you >soldered. Weller 8125N or 8125W: <http://www.ebay.com/itm/201553866393> >clean the connections, but most of the time it will work loose and not heat >as well. I ran some tests on the current "wattage" used by the guns and >found that it was almost half when the connections were bad. The tip resistance is much less than the xformer winding resistance. I've been tempted to use a capacitor ESR meter to measure the contact resistance, but never had the need or opportunity. Try it next time you run into a suspected bad connection. -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
| Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Apr 12 12:28AM -0700 >with poly-types) using Devcon Plastic Welder: >http://www.amazon.com/Devcon-22045-Plastic-Welder-Dev-Tube/dp/B003NUGL9S >It's my go-to solution when fixing anything plastic. Well, at least Devcon doesn't claim that it's an epoxy. From the MSDS sheet at: <http://www.itwconsumer.com/userfiles/files/msds/DV-MSDS/22045.pdf> it appears to be similar to the MMA based Loctite Plastic Epoxy Bonder but without the carbon tetrachloride solvent to soften the base plastic. Data sheet: <http://www.itwconsumer.com/userfiles/files/techdata-sheet/DV%20Tech%20Data/22045%20TDS.pdf> "Not recommended for use on copper or brass" >Cool phone. Brings back memories. Ours was (at different times, replacements >installed after family of 6 abused it) red, yellow, black, white. With >extra-long handset cord, of course. Same here, but with fewer phones and colors. In college, I helped build a private exchange, complete with direct dialing and rotary steppers, in the dorms. Everything was "donated", which translated from student slang meant stolen. This was approximately when we first walked on the moon, so the administration was tolerant of anything that might be considered science and resisted the temptation to throw all us phone phreaks out of skool. Yep, fond memories. -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
| "J.B. Wood" <arl_123234@hotmail.com>: Apr 12 06:33AM -0400 On 04/10/2016 04:12 PM, J. B. Wood wrote: > glue the pieces back together it will most likely fail again in short > order. Thanks for your time and your comment is most appreciated. > Sincerely, Hello again, everyone and many thanks to all the timely responses from Jeff L. and others. Just one additional comment: When that plastic hook switch part breaks the phone will be permanently off-hook even with the handset parked in the cradle. Also, while many usenet groups have become silent, s.e.r is most certainly a notable exception! VTY, -- J. B. Wood e-mail: arl_123234@hotmail.com |
| Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net>: Apr 11 02:03PM -0400 On 04/11/2016 12:22 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > (breather, glasses, gloves, etc). > Plastruct video: > <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=979eXts6DwM> (1:23) Methyl chloride (CH3Cl) != methylene chloride (CH3Cl2). The stuff with the shorter name is pretty evil, but the longer stuff you can practically drink. (Just joking, kids. Don't drink paint remover.) Cheers Phil Hobbs -- Dr Philip C D Hobbs Principal Consultant ElectroOptical Innovations LLC Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics 160 North State Road #203 Briarcliff Manor NY 10510 hobbs at electrooptical dot net http://electrooptical.net |
| Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net>: Apr 11 02:04PM -0400 On 04/11/2016 02:03 PM, Phil Hobbs wrote: > practically drink. (Just joking, kids. Don't drink paint remover.) > Cheers > Phil Hobbs CH2Cl2. -- Dr Philip C D Hobbs Principal Consultant ElectroOptical Innovations LLC Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics 160 North State Road #203 Briarcliff Manor NY 10510 hobbs at electrooptical dot net http://electrooptical.net |
| Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Apr 11 11:50AM -0700 On Mon, 11 Apr 2016 14:03:54 -0400, Phil Hobbs >Methyl chloride (CH3Cl) != methylene chloride (CH3Cl2). The stuff with >the shorter name is pretty evil, but the longer stuff you can >practically drink. (Just joking, kids. Don't drink paint remover.) Oops. Thanks for the correction. I thought they were the same stuff. >Cheers Grumble... Jeff L. -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
| etpm@whidbey.com: Apr 11 12:09PM -0700 On Mon, 11 Apr 2016 09:06:48 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote: >the correct type of adhesive stick: ><https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hot-melt_adhesive> >Good luck. ABS=Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene. |
| Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Apr 11 03:28PM -0700 >the stuff. I think. See the link: >http://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-0-85-fl-oz-Plastic-Epoxy-1360788/100371824 >Eric Do you recall if the goo you used took 5 min or 20 min to set? The Home Despot ad above shows "Epoxy Plastic" with a 5 minute time to set. However, I couldn't find that on the Loctite web pile, but found this instead: <http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/epxy_plstc_s/overview/Loctite-Epoxy-Plastic-Bonder.htm> which is a "Plastic Epoxy Bonder" with a 20 minute time to set. I prefer the longer setting times and overnight hardening, so I'll start with the 20 min flavor. The Plastic Epoxy Bonder stuff is NOT an epoxy. Epoxy is a thermosetting plastic. The Plastic Epoxy Bonder is an acrylic, which is thermoplastic. See first question at: <http://juxtamorph.com/difference-between-polyester-acrylic-and-epoxy-resins/> That's fine because an acrylic based glue is what you want for ABS anyway. I suspect it also has some sort of solvent to soften the base plastic. Looks like the formulation has changed slightly: <http://henkelconsumerinfo.com/products/henkel.datasheets.DownPdf.pdf?BUSAREA=0006&VKORG=3450&MATNR=1442491&RECNDH=20257403&ACTNDH=0&LANG=EN&COUNTRY=US> <http://www.menards.com/msds/107040_001.pdf> (older) Yep, 1% carbon tetrachloride solvent, which should do nicely for softening plastics. Three different forms of methyl methacrylate (MMA). Incidentally, MMA was once used for fake finger nails, but was banned for some reason: <http://www.hooked-on-nails.com/mmaandyou.html> I'm not sure what the other stuff does and am too lazy to dig it out. So, what you have here is an acrylic plastic glue, with some rubber compound added to make it a little flexible, no epoxy resin anywhere in sight, and a bit of solvent to soften the base plastic. Also see the data sheet at: <http://www.loctiteproducts.com/tds/EPXY_PLSTC_S_tds.pdf> The 5 min "Epoxy Plastic" MSDS is rather cryptic: <http://henkelconsumerinfo.com/products/henkel.datasheets.DownPdf.pdf?BUSAREA=0006&VKORG=3450&MATNR=1071291&RECNDH=20924077&ACTNDH=0&LANG=EN&COUNTRY=US> <http://henkelconsumerinfo.com/products/henkel.datasheets.DownPdf.pdf?BUSAREA=0006&VKORG=3450&MATNR=1071250&RECNDH=21213716&ACTNDH=0&LANG=EN&COUNTRY=US> and only shows "epoxy resin, proprietary". The hardener is listed as "tertiary amine" which is an epoxy resin curing agent. I would go for the 20 minute flavor. -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
| Michael Black <et472@ncf.ca>: Apr 03 12:10AM -0400 |
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