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John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Apr 12 10:03AM -0700 On 04/12/2016 7:20 AM, Ralph Mowery wrote: > clean the connections, but most of the time it will work loose and not heat > as well. I ran some tests on the current "wattage" used by the guns and > found that it was almost half when the connections were bad.   Agreed, the Weller gun can help in an area where you need to apply a lot of heat, yet you don't want an open flame - like soldering ground braids together deep inside a pinball game! Otherwise the gun sits in the tool chest like many other tools we use once in a while...   Jeff, your solder furnace looks nice, but a gun is a lot more portable.   A solder gun is just another tool that can be used correctly or incorrectly.   John :-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

root <NoEMail@home.org>: Apr 12 07:49PM > chest like many other tools we use once in a while...   > Jeff, your solder furnace looks nice, but a gun is a lot more portable.   > A solder gun is just another tool that can be used correctly or incorrectly.   I also agree about the usefulness of a soldering gun, and I will add that you can make your own tips from the 100amp single strand copper wires for house wiring.

Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: Apr 13 05:53AM -0700 On Tuesday, April 12, 2016 at 11:46:36 AM UTC-4, Jeff Liebermann wrote:   > I don't solder my wire antennas, so that's not a problem for me. > Soldering interferes with my ability to make changes in lengths.   Not even connectors?   Years ago I got a call in the middle of the night from the local campus police. In a wind storm the antenna had broken on top of the electrical engineering building, where the university ham radio club had their shack. W9YT I think.   It turned out the mount for the rotator motor for a 20 M beam antenna had failed. The motor and beam were dangling a few feet below the top of a crank over tower; the coax had snagged on the mount or the whole thing would have come crashing down. The university had just spent $100,000 replacing that roof, and if we damaged it we were in real trouble (weren't even supposed to step off a walkway on that roof).   So we had to crank it down. But anybody who's used a crankover knows the big jerk you get after each tooth, and we had to stand directly under the motor. The motor and antenna were hung on the antenna coax which is plenty strong, but the connection was a barrel connector. Double SO-239, and two PL-259s? I no longer remember the numbers. Anyway, if that soldered connector let go, we'd trash the roof and probably one of us.   I asked the station engineer "who soldered that connector?" "Uh, you did." Oh crap. But the solder held and it came down fine.   Sorry for the off topic veer.

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Apr 13 06:29AM -0700 On Tuesday, April 12, 2016 at 3:49:57 PM UTC-4, root wrote:   > I also agree about the usefulness of a soldering gun, and I will add > that you can make your own tips from the 100amp single strand copper > wires for house wiring.   Coming in late to this, but I have two soldering guns - both yard-sale $1 items, both essentially pristine, barely used devices. As my primary interaction with electronics is vintage radios, such a device is quite useful for chassis and sheet-metal connections and other high-heat broadside applications that even a 40-watt pencil will simply not touch, and for which even a micro-flame torch is too much.   The second one is likely destined to be given away at Kutztown in May - At $1 for the full kit and plastic box, I could not resist - and so I will pass that luck on at the show.   The Keeper is a Sears dual-heat monster that I could use to boil water for tea. It makes enough heat even for 18 gauge sheet metal connections. Useful, when needed.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Apr 13 08:38AM -0700 On Wed, 13 Apr 2016 05:53:48 -0700 (PDT), Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com> wrote:     >> I don't solder my wire antennas, so that's not a problem for me. >> Soldering interferes with my ability to make changes in lengths.   >Not even connectors?   I don't attach connectors directly to the wires of a wire antenna. If the antenna is permanent or needs to be portable, I might solder lugs to the wire ends, which then attach to an insulator or balun via a bolt and nut.   Personally, I avoid using UHF connectors and greatly prefer crimp type connectors[1]. Crimp connectors do not require soldering, which is especially handy when replacing a connector on a tower, in the wind, rain, etc. There's a reason that *ALL* CATV connectors are crimped, not soldered. If one follows the instructions and uses the correct tools, crimping connectors is fairly foolproof and easily mastered. I can't say the same for soldering connectors, where bad connections and sloppy soldering seem to be rather common.   If you include the spares, lug crimpers, D-connector crimpers, Cannon connector crimpers, and Nicopress collection, I have about 50 assorted crimping and cable prep tools. Part of my coax and CATV tool collection: <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/antennas/Misc/slides/crimpers.html> <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/antennas/Misc/slides/CATV-tools.html>     [1] Yes, I know that there are UHF crimp type connectors: <https://www.google.com/search?q=uhf+connector+crimp&tbm=isch>   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

"Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney" <Snuffy-Hub-Cap@Livebait-McKinney.com>: Apr 12 06:08PM -0700 Too much info, but interesting if you're into mechanical assembly -- for all the fellers and fellerettes who have helped me out in the past and future....   https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Keps_nut ... A Keps nut, (also called a K-nut or washer nut), is a nut with an attached, free-spinning washer. Keps is a trademark of ITW Shakeproof. The name comes from "kep" in Shakeproof, and the "s" is because usually more than one are purchased. It is used to make assembly more convenient. Common washer types are star-type lock washers, conical, and flat washers."   http://www.boltscience.com/pages/glossary.htm ... SEMS A screw and washer assembly. A screw or bolt which has a captive washer. The washer is frequently loose on the plain shank of the fastener, the shank diameter being equal to the effective diameter of the thread; the thread being rolled from this diameter. The origin of the word is a frequent question. In the 1930's E. C. Crowther was a representative for a company that sold both shakeproof washers and screws. He came up with the idea of placing the washer on the screw before it was thread rolled. The major diameter of the screw being larger than the washer hole prevents it from coming off. The Illinois Tool Works made machines that produced these patented pre-asSEMbled washers and screws. The s at the end of SEMs is thought to have been subsequently picked up because they are not usually purchased individually. In spite of the original patents and trademarks the word SEMS is generally recognised as a generic term applicable to screw and washer assemblies.   From http://shakeproof.itwautomotive.com/itw-press-room/ > ITW is a diversified manufacturer of highly engineered components and industrial systems with $16 Billion in revenues. ITW Shakeproof was formed in 1923 upon the invention of the Shakeproof twisted tooth lockwasher. Over the last 86 years, Shakeproof inventions have become industry standards such as KEPS nuts and SEMS screws. ITW Shakeproof currently offers a full range of internally and externally threaded metal fasteners across a broad size range.   Illustration from another ITW patent: > The exemplary nut (20) of FIGS. 5 and 7 includes a washer (24) assembled therewith. In other embodiments, the nut does not include the slots or washer.   Patent illustration: http://tinyurl.com/keps-nut-figure-5 or http://www.google.com/patents/US6726420   And that's my book report for the week...

"Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com>: Apr 12 10:48PM -0400 "Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" <Snuffy-Hub-Cap@Livebait-McKinney.com> wrote in message news:d-2dna6x0IglBpDKnZ2dnUU7-Q1QAAAA@earthlink.com... Too much info, but interesting if you're into mechanical assembly -- for all the fellers and fellerettes who have helped me out in the past and future....   https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swage_nut

"SC Tom" <sc@tom.net>: Apr 13 07:48AM -0400 "Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" <Snuffy-Hub-Cap@Livebait-McKinney.com> wrote in message news:d-2dna6x0IglBpDKnZ2dnUU7-Q1QAAAA@earthlink.com... > than one are purchased. It is used to make assembly more convenient. > Common washer types are star-type lock washers, conical, and flat > washers."   That's what I was saying in the other post- the washer spins, but the beveled shoulder area doesn't. It's just the keeper for the washer.   Nice completion of a homework assignment, though :-) --   SC Tom

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Apr 13 05:57AM -0700 On Wednesday, April 13, 2016 at 7:48:48 AM UTC-4, SC Tom wrote:   > Nice completion of a homework assignment, though :-) > --   > SC Tom   Ah, but then we have that invention of the Devil, used both as a nut and as a keeper on plastic studs: The Tinnerman Nut:   http://static1.mfgsupply.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/cd07fb3c3ef6a9f3f4d256a600660931/a/z/az8505.jpg   Fast installation, cheap, simple - and damned near impossible to remove without damage to the stud. The "technique" is to squeeze the nut until the teeth disengage the stud and slide it up. As they are made from spring steel, they will either crack, or slip out of the grip of whatever pliers are used.   Mr. Albert H. Tinnerman... the inventor of same nut, should have been diverted to a monastery in early childhood, and allowed no tools sharper than a rubber spoon!   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

ohger1s@gmail.com: Apr 12 11:34AM -0700 I have an older QSC model 1400 in with some blown output transistors (uses 8 per channel). Original outputs are Toshiba 2SD424 and B554. QSC doesn't sell parts for this amp any longer because of it's age. Is there a reliable source of these outputs, or should I replace them all with something newer?

dansabrservices@yahoo.com: Apr 12 11:56AM -0700 > I have an older QSC model 1400 in with some blown output transistors (uses 8 per channel). Original outputs are Toshiba 2SD424 and B554. QSC doesn't sell parts for this amp any longer because of it's age. Is there a reliable source of these outputs, or should I replace them all with something newer?   These are a common output transistor and are readily available. MCM electronics has them as does MAT Electronics and others. Look around. Dalbani out of Florida should have them as well. IRRC Dalbani is hte least expensive. That being said, these are usually $4-$6 each.   Dan

ohger1s@gmail.com: Apr 12 01:41PM -0700 > > I have an older QSC model 1400 in with some blown output transistors (uses 8 per channel). Original outputs are Toshiba 2SD424 and B554. QSC doesn't sell parts for this amp any longer because of it's age. Is there a reliable source of these outputs, or should I replace them all with something newer?   > These are a common output transistor and are readily available. MCM electronics has them as does MAT Electronics and others. Look around. Dalbani out of Florida should have them as well. IRRC Dalbani is hte least expensive. That being said, these are usually $4-$6 each.   > Dan   Yes, I see them all over the net. It's been years since I've done much audio but I remember the counterfeit invasion of Toshiba plastic transistors and just want to be sure the supply of these particular outputs is safe.

dansabrservices@yahoo.com: Apr 12 01:48PM -0700 I've used them from all the suppliers that I have listed as well as others without any problems. I have not had any returns due to defective parts. Been doing audio repairs for 35 years now.   Dan

Trevor Wilson <trevor@SPAMBLOCKrageaudio.com.au>: Apr 13 07:47AM +1000 > around. Dalbani out of Florida should have them as well. IRRC > Dalbani is hte least expensive. That being said, these are usually > $4-$6 each.   **I tried doing business with Dalbani about 5 - 6 years ago. I did a search for a NLA LED display for a Krell CD player. They had the part advertised for about $20.00. When I ordered the part, they suddenly raised the price to more than $200.00. I have not dealt with them since. Is this their normal method of doing business? Have they improved?   FWIW: The customer baulked at the revised repair cost and decided not to go ahead. The client lost, I lost and Dalbani lost.       -- Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au   --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

dansabrservices@yahoo.com: Apr 12 03:02PM -0700 On Tuesday, April 12, 2016 at 5:47:35 PM UTC-4, Trevor Wilson wrote:   > --- > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. > https://www.avast.com/antivirus   I never had that problem with them. As a matter of fact, I purchased a quantity of Sony optics assemblies from them a while ago and never had any issues. They had a big sale a long time ago and I picked up belts for $.03 each. Still have that stock and they are in good condition. Used enough so that the remainder are pure profit.   I did a bulk buy of transistors to stock up form them too and never had a problem except for one value. When I called, they replaced them as it seems it was a bad lot.   Dan

ohger1s@gmail.com: Apr 12 03:07PM -0700 > I've used them from all the suppliers that I have listed as well as others without any problems. I have not had any returns due to defective parts. Been doing audio repairs for 35 years now.   > Dan   Excellent. I'll get them ordered if the estimate gets approved.   Trevor: I used to do a lot of business with Dalbani and never had a problem, and I've ordered a few small things in recent years, so I'd say that that was not their normal method of doing business. They don't carry what I need anymore so I rarely buy from them nowadays, but I'd venture it was a typo on that part. If they had any brains, they'd have told you it was sold out instead of trying to bang you 10x, then relist it at the right price.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Apr 12 08:17PM -0700 > These are a common output transistor and are readily available.   ** Not true for a long time.   Fakes are readily available though - I can see that Ebay is full of them. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/parts/59427-fffake-2sd424.html     > MCM electronics has them as does MAT Electronics   ** No sign of them on either's web site.     > Dalbani out of Florida should have them as well.     ** Dalbani are offering "pulls" on Ebay for $9.25 each.   At least they are not very likely to be fakes.   http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2SD424-Original-Pulled-Toshiba-Transistor-D424-/400641944852?hash=item5d481eed14:g:UeUAAOxyUrZSq2G~     I suggest the OP goes to Newark/Element 14 and buys some "ON" MJ15003s and MJ15004s for about $4 each.   Certain to be new and genuine plus do the job better too.         .... Phil

jurb6006@gmail.com: Apr 13 04:27AM -0700 Actually you should be looking for NOS 2SD427 and 557, the highest power of the series.   My standard go to is the MJ15024 and if necessary its complimentary which I think is the 15025 but not sure, check the data at Digikey. Onsemi, about six bucks. Some people prefer other MJ series in the audiophile world, but these are sported to have "the largest die size for this class" or something like that. I have them in my amp and my speakers are blown but not the amp.   Another decent set is the 2N3773 and 6609. Nice smooth gain. But they are not as good for as much power. Better than a 2N3055 and MJ2955, but not a 15024.

"Mark Zacharias" <mark_zacharias@sbcglobal.net>: Apr 13 06:58AM -0500 "Trevor Wilson" <trevor@SPAMBLOCKrageaudio.com.au> wrote in message news:dn58njFb8o6U1@mid.individual.net... >> around. Dalbani out of Florida should have them as well. IRRC >> Dalbani is hte least expensive. That being said, these are usually >> $4-$6 each.   Unless you can find "New Old Stock" you should go with modern equivalents.   Toshiba hasn't made these in many years. Any so-called "new" stock are FAKES.   Onsemi (previously Motorola) MJ15003G and MJ15004G.   In the United States, B&D Enterprises (Bdent.com) is a very reliable distributor.   1-800-458-6053   Mark Z.

"Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com>: Apr 12 06:51PM +0100 Just won a Fujitsu Siemens laptop with a bricked HDD.   Linux based partition tools were able to recognise that the "HDD is bad" - although it may have been occasionally poking its head above the parapet, because at one point the tools exited with a message that server edition wasn't supported.   With a replacement HDD; the XP Pro install disk went through the motions all the way to the partition setup screen - then said no HDD was present.   Since Linux based tools found the drive OK; I installed Fedora, that went without a hitch and everything seems to be working.   The laptop is now capable of doing the job I wanted it for, but I'm used to Windows, and finding out what's preventing the install would make life easier.   Thanks for any help.

MJC <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Apr 12 07:57PM +0100 In article <RAaPy.976873$cz.391081@fx39.am4>, gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com says... > Windows, and finding out what's preventing the install would make life > easier.   > Thanks for any help.   Not real help, but can you run any deeper HDD diagnostic tools under Linux?   Mike.

"Kenny" <me@privacy.net>: Apr 12 08:08PM +0100 "MJC" wrote in message news:MPG.3177555cc3f2f4f10@news.plus.net...   In article <RAaPy.976873$cz.391081@fx39.am4>, gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com says... > Windows, and finding out what's preventing the install would make life > easier.   > Thanks for any help.   Not real help, but can you run any deeper HDD diagnostic tools under Linux?   Mike.   Maybe try UBCD, it has a number of disk tools on it. http://www.ultimatebootcd.com/   Kenny

"Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com>: Apr 12 08:36PM +0100 "Kenny" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message news:k6udnQaNsp4w2pDKnZ2dnUU78QHNnZ2d@brightview.com...   > Mike.   > Maybe try UBCD, it has a number of disk tools on it. > http://www.ultimatebootcd.com/   Apparently that machine needs an ACHI driver which is absent from XP.

Bruce Esquibel <bje@ripco.com>: Apr 13 11:20AM > Apparently that machine needs an ACHI driver which is absent from XP.   Something like that.   A freind of mine got stuck with one of those things (this was 2008/09) and that V5505 is like the cheapest/low performance laptop for "business use", whatever the fuck that means.   It shipped with Vista, not XP.   Anyway, check the bios for that ACHI mode, there is something you can toggle on or off (from whatever it is now) that should let XP install. But I'd leave the linux on it if it was me.   -bruce bje@ripco.com

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