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avagadro7@gmail.com: Apr 25 06:10AM -0700 I have created a negative black hole.   Are the two following mateable ? is TS 200 a standard ?   http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/jmp-24/jumper-for-ts-200-barrier-strips/1.html     http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/ts-210/10-position-dual-row-strip-20-amp/1.html   is there a better way ? There are 20 18g grnd wires.

legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Apr 25 09:29AM -0500 >http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/jmp-24/jumper-for-ts-200-barrier-strips/1.html   >http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/ts-210/10-position-dual-row-strip-20-amp/1.html   >is there a better way ? There are 20 18g grnd wires.   The jumper is identified as a 'related product' on the terminal block's web page.   For grounding and bonding applications, you need to refer to the safety standard being applied. This hardware is unlikely to comply.   Tooled multi-contact solid-conductor bussbars are fairly common in establishing multiple grounding point integrity.   Google earth busbar.   RL

DJ Delorie <dj@delorie.com>: Apr 24 04:37PM -0400 That reminds me of the time I was writing the software to control the air conditioner (both in the wall thermostats and on the web), and my wife yelled at me because she couldn't figure out how to make the house cooler.   New general rule: if your wife can't figure out how to use it, you've failed.

bitrex <bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net>: Apr 24 04:42PM -0400 On 04/24/2016 01:31 AM, DaveC wrote: > "How do I turn off the bathroom light?"   > https://pbs.twimg.com/media/CbXWbQ-W8AAwSA8.jpg   probably fake.   but I did see a young woman walk right into a convenience store door once, because she thought it would open automatically.   She was Asian, though, looked like not a native so I don't really blame her. I blame America for being less technologically sophisticated than Bulgaria.

MJC <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Apr 24 10:38PM +0100 In article <tcaTy.19220$Uj7.7406@fx01.iad>, bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net says...   > but I did see a young woman walk right into a convenience store door > once, because she thought it would open automatically.   Conversely, years ago I saw a middle-aged lady walk backwards out onto the pavement (=sidewalk) because her hands were full and she expected to have to open the shop door with her back (but didn't!)...   Mike.

krw <krw@nowhere.com>: Apr 24 06:26PM -0400 On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 16:42:01 -0400, bitrex   >probably fake.   >but I did see a young woman walk right into a convenience store door >once, because she thought it would open automatically.   Of course the fact that she wasn't watching where she was going was of no consequence.   >She was Asian, though, looked like not a native so I don't really blame >her. I blame America for being less technologically sophisticated than >Bulgaria.   Only a lefty would think Bulgaria was in Asia.

krw <krw@nowhere.com>: Apr 24 06:30PM -0400 >cooler.   >New general rule: if your wife can't figure out how to use it, you've >failed.   There is an expectation thing, too. My wife was sitting in the cold because she said she didn't know how to turn up the smart thermostat. "Here, twist this thingy (grabs big ring on thermostat) and this needle thing points to the temperature and these numbers...". She expected it to be hard but it was just like any other.

thekmanrocks@gmail.com: Apr 25 06:24AM -0700 DaveC:   I will never for as long as i live allow "apps" to control anything in my house!

sonnichjensen@gmail.com: Apr 25 02:59AM -0700 Hi all   I have a lamp I use for camping. Accidently it was left with the batteries in for the winter, and they have leaked a bit. I have repaired cases like this before, usually with a file and sand paper, then added some solder on it. But do you have any better suggestions?   WBR Sonnich

"Teodor V." <teodor-see-signature@invalid.invalid>: Apr 25 02:28PM +0200 > I have a lamp I use for camping. Accidently it was left with the batteries in for the winter, and they have leaked a bit. > I have repaired cases like this before, usually with a file and sand paper, then added some solder on it. > But do you have any better suggestions?   I've wandered across gear with leaked batteries a number of times in my life... What I do these days is to disassemble, go over what I can wash in water and what I can't. What I can't wash in water I go over with an old toothbrush (tho an ESD brush should be safer) and IPA (Isopropyl alcohol) or IPA wipes (or denatured ethanol) taking off any residue I can get off.   The rest I use a dedicated dish brush and your garden variety washing up liquid on, as well as hot water as my hands can bear. Haven't run across things leaked to such an extent that solders have to be redone or reflowed.   As to tougher spots of electrolyte, I've recently come across videos of using white vinegar (acetic acid), pickling grade to remove corrosion, I wonder if it could work on tough crusts of electrolyte?   /Teo.   -- Teodor Väänänen | Don't meddle in the affairs of wizards, teostupiditydor@algonet.se | for you are good and crunchy with Remove stupidity to reply | ketchup.

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Apr 25 06:21AM -0700 On Monday, April 25, 2016 at 8:28:56 AM UTC-4, Teodor V. wrote: > Teodor Väänänen | Don't meddle in the affairs of wizards, > teostupiditydor@algonet.se | for you are good and crunchy with > Remove stupidity to reply | ketchup.   Yes, vinegar and/or baking soda, depending on the nature of the leaked electrolyte. If possible, the dishwasher as preferred cleaning method top rack, and only those machines without an exposed heating element inside. That will remove any salts and loose corrosion.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Danny DiAmico <dannydiamico@yahoo.com>: Apr 25 01:37AM Hi Guys,   Any washing machine experienced folks here?   Wife pressed the "Power" button on the Costco Whirlpool Duet Sport washing machine and then, when she pressed the separate "Start" button, something popped. She said it sounded like a sharp crack, like a "bottle breaking".   It has power (although I cycled the home circuit breakers anyway), but it won't do anything now when the "Start" button is pressed (nor when the "Cancel" button is pressed). All the lights on the front light up normally (it seems).   So, it will power up, but it won't do anything (e.g., no water turns on and no spinning occurs - in fact, there are no sounds whatsoever from inside). It won't even turn off with the "Cancel" button (although it will turn off when I unplug it and then plug it back in).   It was bought in 2008 and it gets used about once a week or so (a bit more now that we have my sister and her kids living with us).   Any suggestions?

Rheilly Phoull <rheilly@bigslong.com>: Apr 25 04:33PM +0800 On 25/04/2016 9:37 AM, Danny DiAmico wrote:   > It was bought in 2008 and it gets used about once a week or so (a bit more > now that we have my sister and her kids living with us).   > Any suggestions?   Google is your friend :-)   http://applianceassistant.com/Washer-Repair/Duet/Duet-Washer-Error-Codes.php   Try that and google first before posting.

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Apr 25 06:18AM -0700 On Sunday, April 24, 2016 at 9:38:02 PM UTC-4, Danny DiAmico wrote:   > It was bought in 2008 and it gets used about once a week or so (a bit more > now that we have my sister and her kids living with us).   > Any suggestions?   Call the Whirlpool Customer Service line. 1 (866) 698-2538   Start there, they may save you from all sorts of false starts and red herrings.   I expect that there is some sort of fuse or fusible link inside that popped causing the sound and lack of response. You may find that it devolves to the start capacitor on the motor, or some other similar part that failed causing a load on the link.   Generally, it has been my experience with moving parts that the more extreme the symptom, the simpler the cause. But, start with the toll-free number. They have seen (and heard) it all before.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Gunner Asch <gunnerasch@gmail.com>: Apr 24 10:13AM -0700 On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 10:25:19 -0500, Ignoramus7945 >volts displays. With these two you can figure out what is going on >very quickly.   >i   Ayup. And many folks today are so butt ignorant about "what is going on very quickly" that voltmeters simply arent included because Aunt Mae or Brother Bob doesnt have a clue, nor has any interest in knowing whats going on. When the electric start snow blower or mower wont turn over and fire up..they want to simply put the charger on it..wait a long time (usally 15 minutes) and go do the mowing/blowing.   Im reminded daily..what an august group we have here. Smart people who can actually find their asses with more than one hand..even simultainiously or consecutivly!! A very large portion of our population can barely pour in gas..let alone know if its supposed to have oil mixed in it or not. As any mower shop about that......

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Apr 24 10:34AM -0700 On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 07:55:52 -0500, Ignoramus7945 >off, if they simply tried to maintain 13.3 volts or some such.   >My question is, is my experience unique and atypical, or have you also >had bad experience with battery chargers.   Nope. Over the years, I've found cause to blame the battery, the owner, the dealer, and the charger. Sometimes, it's bad combinations of the two. For example, the charger clearly says that it's for lead-acid flooded batteries, but the owner insists that it should charge an AGM or Gel type battery. I've lost count of how many times I've run into people trying to charge batteries that are obviously dead, leaking, or dry. Sometimes (not often) the chargers are just plain junk: <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/drivel/slides/dead-battery-chargers.html> As I vaguely recall, all but one of these blew up in service. The one that survived and another that was not in the photo, were pre-emptively replaced.   Smart chargers are actually better than crude chargers because they take the decision making responsibility away from the owner. Plug it in, walk away, and it's done. In 95% of the situations, that's fine and will work as advertised. However, you can get into situations where a smart charger can be fooled and will screw up. For example, it can't tell the difference between a shorted battery and a totally discharged battery. In order to protect itself (from fire and liability lawsuits), smart chargers refuse to charge such batteries. Yet, the battery is still good, but needs to be brought up slowly until the smarts in the smart charger decides that it's worthy of charging. If this is your problem, you can buy a charger that will do that automagically, or you can bring it up slooooowly with a simple trickle charger until the smart charger is happy. There are other situations that might cause problems, but I don't want to burn the time right now.   You can also create problems by having the battery and charger at different temperatures or using corroded or rotten battery leads. Both of these can fool a smart charger.   With the LiIon family of batteries, you have no choice in chargers. It's going to be a smart charger or forget about charging. Lots of reasons but the big one is that one tiny mistake with a LiIon type battery and it's toast or you start a fire. Again, the smart charger takes the decision away from the owner. LiIon also adds the need to use a "balance charger", which equalizes the voltage of each cell. "Equalization" can also done with flooded lead-acid cells if they get out of balance, but for LiIon, methinks it's a necessity. Of course, a balance charge requires a smart charger.   Basically, you have to evaluate each battery, battery charger, and user combination together. If one part doesn't fit well, it's not going to work. For example, you can have the worlds best battery and smart charger, but if the owner doesn't follow the instructions, it's unlikely to work. If you do decide to do your own thing, ask yourself "are you really smarter than the smart charger"?     -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Gunner Asch <gunnerasch@gmail.com>: Apr 24 10:41AM -0700 On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 10:34:33 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:   >smart charger, but if the owner doesn't follow the instructions, it's >unlikely to work. If you do decide to do your own thing, ask yourself >"are you really smarter than the smart charger"?   Excellent post!! Bravo!!   Gunner

clare@snyder.on.ca: Apr 24 04:07PM -0400 On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 07:55:52 -0500, Ignoramus7945 >had bad experience with battery chargers.   >Thanks   >i Cheap battery chargers are universally troublesome. Smart chargers will not charge a defective battery and are often optimized for, say, an automotive starting battery- and will balk at charging an 8Ah "gell cell"   Different horses for different courses - and no such thing as "universal"   Lead Acid batteries may never start to charge with a charger limitted to 13.3 volts - and would NEVER reach a full charge.

whoyakidding@gmail.com: Apr 24 01:33PM -0700 On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 10:13:04 -0700, Gunner Asch <gunnerasch@gmail.com> wrote:   >Aunt >Mae or Brother Bob doesnt have a clue,   But if they have jobs and own their homes then they're miles ahead of you! As is *everyone* I know personally, including some teenagers and many who can't open their hoods much less know anything about what's in there.   You're perpetually broke, in debt, spend most of your nights sleeping in a truck, and the rest sleeping in a dingy mobile home on a tiny rented lot in a crummy town. Does it really make sense to you to be running down fictitious people for not knowing how to use a voltmeter? Particularly since your own troubleshooting skills have been proven a joke.   "As for his "prowess" as an electrical trouble shooter, I picked up a complete service manual with all of the electrical diagrams and his "Fix" for the failed components was to bypass the fuses - TO THE CHARGING CIRCUIT - and baste everything in PB Blaster. There wasn't anything wrong with the charging circuit. The batteries he had cobbled together were shit. I picked up a set from Big Joe and, miracle of miracles, the relay's and solenoinds suddenly started working. It was pretty obvious at that point that his real skill is bull shitting. A ten year old could have made perfect sense of the electrical drawings but not Gunner." http://groups.google.com/group/misc.survivalism/msg/551e94166afc0da2

clare@snyder.on.ca: Apr 24 06:16PM -0400 >ten year old could have made perfect sense of the electrical drawings >but not Gunner." >http://groups.google.com/group/misc.survivalism/msg/551e94166afc0da2 Just like the old saying "most carburetor problems aren't" - most battery charger problems aren't. More likely battery problems - or like the idiot a while back who insisted it was a dangerous defect in a Canadian Tire battery charger that the ammeter melted inside the case when he used the 100 amp "start assist" mode as a fast charger - - - - - -.

whoyakidding@gmail.com: Apr 24 04:08PM -0700 >a Canadian Tire battery charger that the ammeter melted inside the >case when he used the 100 amp "start assist" mode as a fast charger - >- - - - -.   A while back I dragged out a 13hp generator that had been in unheated storage through 2 winters. The small and cheap AGM battery was about 6 years old. I assumed it would be toast and at a minimum would be dead flat. But my charger refused to pass any current. Nah, it couldn't be... I pressed the start button and the generator cranked quite a bit and then fired up. :)

clare@snyder.on.ca: Apr 24 07:18PM -0400 >flat. But my charger refused to pass any current. Nah, it couldn't >be... I pressed the start button and the generator cranked quite a bit >and then fired up. :)   An AGM battery is about as close to "magic" as you can get in a battery!!!

Gunner Asch <gunnerasch@gmail.com>: Apr 24 05:56PM -0700 >>ten year old could have made perfect sense of the electrical drawings >>but not Gunner." >>http://groups.google.com/group/misc.survivalism/msg/551e94166afc0da2   Snicker....roflmao!!   Gunner

whoyakidding@gmail.com: Apr 24 07:01PM -0700 On Sun, 24 Apr 2016 17:56:01 -0700, Gunner Asch <gunnerasch@gmail.com> wrote:   >>>http://groups.google.com/group/misc.survivalism/msg/551e94166afc0da2   >Snicker....roflmao!!   >Gunner   Pretend to laugh all you want, but in every time you open your yap about electricity you prove that that guy had a ringside seat to your self destructiveness and limitations. It's clear that you are even worse at troubleshooting than you are at lying about being able to troubleshoot.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Apr 24 10:29PM -0700 Ignoramus7945 wrote: > crazy and stop charging for no reason, or worse, drain the batteries. > Additionally, they fail due to things such as cold weather or > whatever, things any decently made item should handle.   ** The charges that really "suck" are ones that ruin the cells in short order by overcharging and hence overheating them. Ones that rely on sensing the temp of a cell or run for a fixed time are the main offenders.     > The chargers, at least for lead acid batteries, would really be better > off, if they simply tried to maintain 13.3 volts or some such.   ** Most do just that, fixed current charge with a max voltage of 13.5 or so to float the cells. Smart ones can detect shorted cells or open circuit conditions and do noting.     > My question is, is my experience unique and atypical, or have you also > had bad experience with battery chargers.   ** Plenty - especially ones that try to fast charge loose cells removed from the item as if they were a pack.   FYI:   I have a cordless screwdriver ( Bosch, made in Switzerland) ) that has a non removable pack and a fixed time charger, runs about 4 hours. Long as the driver is sluggish when you connect the charger it does the job fine every time with only a slight temp rise.   Its 20 years old now and I have replaced the 4 sub-C NiCd cells three times.     .... Phil

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