Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 25 updates in 10 topics

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Apr 26 08:14AM +0100

On 26/04/2016 00:26, Michael Black wrote:
> seem to recall trying the thing with alkaline AAs, and it was easier to
> close that cover.
 
> Michael
 
The closers are Dzus Camlock. Perhaps deliberately undersized bores so
as to lock you in to buying Garmin undersize AA batteries.
If you are forcing home the closer , then you will have the same problem
of the lower cells jammed in the bore. As the moulding around the bores
is highly asymetric, perhaps the plastic releives over time and bends,
anyway my "reaming" has done the trick, crude but effective, GPS still
works BTW
MJC <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Apr 26 02:54PM +0100

In article <nfn49d$k6d$1@dont-email.me>, diverse@tcp.co.uk says...
 
> anyway my "reaming" has done the trick, crude but effective, GPS still
> works BTW
 
You're lucky! My admittedly old (1997) Garmin GPS-II+ screen became
totally unreadable (though the rest of it worked) years ago.
 
Mike.
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Apr 26 03:00PM +0100

On 26/04/2016 14:54, MJC wrote:
 
> You're lucky! My admittedly old (1997) Garmin GPS-II+ screen became
> totally unreadable (though the rest of it worked) years ago.
 
> Mike.
 
This is a GPS 12
Charles Bishop <ctbishop@earthlink.net>: Apr 25 09:53PM -0700

In article <nflbgj$d2d$1@news.mixmin.net>,
> physics class and then waiting for some unsuspecting student to turn
> the lights on in the Physics lab - and I don't remember any smell at
> that time.
 
Why were the outlets and the lights on the same circuit?
 
We had power strips on the work benches that were turned on when you
came in to work in the morning. It would have worked ther.
 
 
--
charles
Danny DiAmico <dannydiamico@yahoo.com>: Apr 26 09:40AM

On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 21:53:48 -0700, Charles Bishop wrote:
 
> Why were the outlets and the lights on the same circuit?
 
I don't remember if it was one switch or two.
I remember that the switch was just inside the doorway to the lab.
So, it was usually turned on by the first person who entered the lab.
 
The lab itself had these long countertops down the length of the lab.
At about eye level were the outlets.
The caps we stuck in the outlets and I "do" remember the labs being
dark when nobody was in there (even then, we were aware someone could
be hurt but we didn't worry about it because we associated the darkness
with nobody being in there). < yes, we were kids >
Danny DiAmico <dannydiamico@yahoo.com>: Apr 26 09:45AM

On Tue, 26 Apr 2016 09:40:42 +0000, Danny DiAmico wrote:
 
> dark when nobody was in there (even then, we were aware someone could
> be hurt but we didn't worry about it because we associated the darkness
> with nobody being in there). < yes, we were kids >
 
PS: Don't remind me the time we took nitric acid, as I recall, and
poured it into beakers containing iodine crystals and then dried it with
either ether or alcohol (as I recall) and then painted anything we wanted
e.g., the chemistry lab countertops, with the wet (stable) nitrogen
tri-iodide paste.
 
When that stuff dries, it's so unstable, even a fly landing on it
will cause it to explode (little purple cloud bursts sporadically
popping all over the place!).
 
< yes, we were kids once >
MJC <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Apr 26 02:56PM +0100

In article <nfndb5$nut$2@news.mixmin.net>, dannydiamico@yahoo.com
says...
> either ether or alcohol (as I recall) and then painted anything we wanted
> e.g., the chemistry lab countertops, with the wet (stable) nitrogen
> tri-iodide paste.
 
The recipe I used (and the only one I've heard of) uses ammonia as a
source of nitrogen, not acid.
 
Mike.
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Apr 26 02:26PM +0100

I've some tubular ceramic caps, 1p8 unknown voltage, scraped back the
covering and 2.4mm electrode separation , so perhaps 3KV or so.
Tried 2 of those on each secondary and no change
 
2 extenders underneath, so I tried swapping tubes over , no change.
Wired in the tube of a CFL onto the plain unmonitored side of the Tx, no
glow. Removed it and fitted it on the monitored side and 6 seconds after
standby to on, 1 second maintained burst of lamp light. I could repeat
this procedure but only ever 1 second , presumably before the monitoring
decides there is an internal tube short or something.
These CFL tubes have about 10R heaters? either end, but nothing <30 Meg,
over the 4 ends of the original tubes.
So assuming the burried tail connections are ok and the tubes are not
physically broken , what can go wrong with these TV backlight
flourescent tubes, and both of them?
What if any ohmage across the pairs of wires at each end would I expect?
avagadro7@gmail.com: Apr 26 04:51AM -0700

AE6KS
 
following reduce max charge n allow depletion before recharging advice....
 
 
Ctek's and Optimas are mated...there's an Optima icon on the Ctek.
 
'Instead, there was a tiny drop in voltage just before the
battery reached full charge. The smart charger chip would detect this
drop in voltage and declare the battery to have been successfully
charged.'
 
there is advice on NOT charging gel acids to max as max discharges gases ie depletes batt capacity n longevity. no odor detected.
 
Ctek's connection seems to declare the batt charged
 
as switching into SUPPLY after CHARGED produces substantially more running time than CHARGE ...poss 30% more..poss age related
 
8 year batts used for laptop/emergency auto start/small Holmes hospital clamp fan. Never depleted under 12V
 
The Odyssey batt connected to truck was good at 5 years but not new. The new one immediately improved ignition quality b a small fraction
"Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com>: Apr 22 09:03PM +0100

My MSI945GZM motherboard is getting flaky, the only other MOBO I have is a
MSI MS7204 (945P).
 
The GZM has a normal CPU cooler - the 945P has a huge cooler with copper
pipes running through a big stack of fins. That cooler overhangs the edge of
the board and won't fit a case that has drive bays.
 
Is there an information resource that deals with which coolers can be used
with what boards/CPUs?
 
Thanks.
Jim Whitby <mr.spock@spockmail.net>: Apr 20 08:14PM

On Tue, 19 Apr 2016 21:13:02 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
 
> specify a WOM in a design:
> <http://www.sigwom.com/?page_id=57>
> <http://ba.internet.narkive.com/Y3r0WXMC/ot-signetics-wom-hey-jeff-
liebermann>
 
Seems to be some smart people here. I need to learn how to empty the /dev/
null device.
 
I have lots of scripts that that write to it and I suspect it needs
emptied.
 
Any help?
Sjouke Burry <burrynulnulfour@ppllaanneett.nnll>: Apr 21 02:05AM +0200

On 20.04.16 23:52, Ralph Mowery wrote:
> way and brass and maybe some other materials affect it the other way.
 
> Could someone have say a knife with a steel blade and an matching amount
> of brass go through the detector with out setting it off ?
 
By all means try it, we are all in for a belly laugh.
Heisenberg <Barry@saymyname.com>: Apr 21 06:35AM +1000

On Wed, 20 Apr 2016 03:56:16 -0700 (PDT), thekmanrocks@gmail.com
wrote:
 
>no status on the screen, no sounds from
>the CD/DVD disc DRIVE, eject - blank label.
>Never bothered with it again.
 
I only tried it once and the result was not worthwhile.
 
=-=-
"Humans will have advanced a long, long way when religious belief has a cozy
little classification in the DSM*."
David Melville
(*Diagnostic and Statistical Manual of Mental Disorders)
"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>: Apr 20 09:44PM -0400


> > I want to call that company and ask if they have any DVD rewinders in stock.
 
> I'm forever stepping on the ones that fall off the bench unnoticed, and they flatten almost completely (and I'm not overweight). Years ago, clip leads were heavy stamped steel or copper and much more durable. If you ever run across a source for these let me know.
 
> How fast is the DVD rewinder?
 
 
Here are 100 of the small alligator clips with red insulators for
$13. You can repair the damaged ones, or make your own.
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321175159335
 
Disposable-Red-Plastic-Covered-35mm-Metal-Alligator-Clips-100-Pcs-/
 
 
They have others at reasonable prices, as well.
 
<http://stores.ebay.com/22newcentury/_i.html?_nkw=100+alligator+clip&submit=Search&LH_TitleDesc=1&_sid=340637155>
 
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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etpm@whidbey.com: Apr 21 09:10AM -0700

On Wed, 20 Apr 2016 17:52:05 -0400, Ralph Mowery
>way and brass and maybe some other materials affect it the other way.
 
>Could someone have say a knife with a steel blade and an matching amount
>of brass go through the detector with out setting it off ?
 
I don't know if your scheme would work but I do know that airport
metal detectors have some way to discriminate between a key in my
wallet and all the titanium and stainless steel in my arms, back, and
pelvis. I used to set the things off but not any more. I have spoken
with folks who have long pins in their legs, artificial knees, and
artificial hips and they don't set off the airport metal detectors
either.
Eric
John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Apr 21 08:17AM -0700

On 04/20/2016 2:52 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
 
> Could someone have say a knife with a steel blade and an matching amount
> of brass go through the detector with out setting it off ?
 
If you recall the movie "The Graduate" there is just one word from the
cocktail party scene that answers your point.
 
John :-#(#
 
--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
(604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Apr 21 07:40PM -0700

On 04/21/2016 10:31 AM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> <https://www.tindie.com/products/upgradeindustries/10x-spear-tip-spring-loaded-pogo-test-pin-p160-b-/>
 
> Flexible plastic hose:
> <https://www.google.com/search?tbm=isch&q=machinery+coolant+hose>
 
I'd enjoy seeing pictures of your test bench setup with those pogo pins.
Near as I can figure you use those semi-stiff hoses to hold the pins on
the UUT (unit under test). For me, not su useful as I am mostly fixing
TTL stuff (not many folks still do that), but I can see it being very
useful on SMT products.
 
John :-#)#
 
--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
(604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Apr 21 11:18AM -0700

On Thu, 21 Apr 2016 10:31:46 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>
wrote:
 
>Spring loaded test probe/pin:
><https://www.tindie.com/products/upgradeindustries/10x-spear-tip-spring-loaded-pogo-test-pin-p160-b-/>
 
More... The magic buzzword is "pogo pin":
<https://www.google.com/search?q=pogo+pin&tbm=isch>
<http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=pogo+pin>
Note that there are also receptacles (sockets) for the pins, to make
them easy to replace:
<https://www.google.com/search?tbm=isch&q=pogo+pin+receptacle>
Lots of different sizes and tip types.
 
Once you get into using these pins, you'll find yourself addicted.
 
 
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Apr 21 02:44PM -0700

On Fri, 22 Apr 2016 05:35:02 +1000, Heisenberg <Barry@saymyname.com>
wrote:
 
>>Lots of different sizes and tip types.
 
>>Once you get into using these pins, you'll find yourself addicted.
 
>Are you familiar with IDS and wirewrap?
 
Insulation Displacement Something. Yep, been there with every ribbon
cable connector. I even have the proper IDS compression tools for
most of the connectors used in PC's.
 
Wire Wrap. Yep, I still have my spools of #30 wire, which I now use
for soldering breadboards. I still have my manual tools as I sold my
battery operated wire wrap gun.
 
Now, are you familiar with my policy of ignoring one line questions?
The problem is that one line questions usually lack any content,
value, understand, detail, and are generally not worth reading. Since
your nom de plume implies uncertainty, I'll make an exception this
time.
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Apr 22 06:39PM -0700

On Wed, 20 Apr 2016 03:56:16 -0700 (PDT), thekmanrocks@gmail.com
wrote:
 
>You actually got that "Lightscribe" thing
>to work??
 
Not me. I tried it a few times and gave up. It takes forever,
produces ugly looking monochrome CD labels, requires special expensive
media, and seems to use buggy HP software:
<http://hubpages.com/technology/lightscribe>
No thanks. An inkjet CD printer works better.
<https://printinginnovations.cusa.canon.com/pixma/cd_dvd_printing>
However, if it ever can be made to work in color or obtain better mono
contrast, I might try again.
 
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Apr 22 08:11AM

Hi,
 
I've noticed a high failure rate in appliances built-in mains filters.
These are the filters that are typically found at the point the power
lead enters the appliance. They're silver coloured things about the size
of a matchbox and they tend to fail short and blow the fuse. The ones
I've seen are usually rated for 1A since the only stuff I do is low
power. However, some of that low power stuff is test equipment with SMPSs
that initially look like a short circuit at power-on. I think this is
what blows those filters. Early SMPS designs didn't seem to pay much
attention to surge prevention so I'm wondering if it would pay to
retrospectively fit MOVs at the beginning of the SMPS section to prolong
filter and power supply life (hopefully).
Any thoughts on the advisability of doing this and which MOVs are best
suited to this purpose?
Thanks.
 
CD.
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Apr 20 02:14PM +0100

Via chinese whispers I had got the diagnosis of a problem with the
"forward processor" whatever that meant.
Going by the ribbon damage to the digital board, perhaps it means
problem with the Feedback Ferret (TM) falsely detecting feedback and
inserting attenuation. I wonder if its possible to bypass/defeat that,
if proves to be the problem
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Apr 21 10:44AM +0100

Still cold exploration. 3 bad ESR SMD 10Uf 16V caps, marked
 
10
16S
014
 
on the digital board, one each on the Vcom pin of the ferret codec and
the FX codec and another elsewhere, so could be injecting HF into the
codecs. All other such caps ESR good
Anyway hot testing next with Tx,Prea,PA spread-eagled across the bench.
Chuck <chuck@mydeja.net>: Apr 20 10:08AM -0500

On Tue, 19 Apr 2016 10:14:07 -0700 (PDT), thekmanrocks@gmail.com
wrote:
 
>Chuck:
 
>Thanks for sharing! It's even got
>a turntable.
 
 
Also 2 tonearms so the record didn't need to be flipped.
 
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etpm@whidbey.com: Apr 25 10:22AM -0700

On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 06:24:23 -0700 (PDT), thekmanrocks@gmail.com
wrote:
 
>DaveC:
 
>I will never for as long as i live allow "apps"
>to control anything in my house!
Hear! Hear! I look at devices for the IoT and how your home can be
controlled while you are away, and how the doors unlock when you are
close enough and so on an then I think about how easy stuff is to
hack.
Eric
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