Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 8 updates in 4 topics

Paul in Houston TX <Paul@Houston.Texas>: Apr 28 03:19PM -0500

Max Muller wrote:
> on the fan!
 
> http://i.cubeupload.com/PPtURP.gif
 
> All I'm asking is what are the numbers to look for.
 
Did you even bother to look on Ebay?
"jfeng@my-deja.com" <jfeng@my-deja.com>: Apr 28 02:08PM -0700

First, check to make sure the fan is bad (apply power directly).
 
Most of the expense in the FRU is in all the plumbing and the heat sinks. If you are a cheapskate (like me), and you are kind of mechanically adventurous, you might replace just the fan. Jameco has brand new cooling fans for under $20
http://www.jameco.com/Jameco/catalogs/c161/P84.pdf and it is probably even less if you can find one surplus.
Jasen Betts <jasen@xnet.co.nz>: Apr 29 11:35AM

> the keyboard out, I can see the fan spin for a second, and then
> shut down (I already blew all the dust out).
 
> http://i.cubeupload.com/PPtURP.gif
 
The fan in my T400 gave up and I got a replacement for like $5 on
aliexpress, I should have paid $8 and got the fan-heatsink asembly
as replacing the fan only was tricky, and my repair was imperfect.
looks like your one's a bit more expensive.
 
looks like your fan is $8 but the heatsink assembly is $33
I'd be tempted to try replacing just the fan, and if that fixes the the
problem but goes badly due to a fumble replace the whole thing.
 
The backlight in my T400 gave out shortly after the fan and I fumbled
the inverter card and blew out the controller on the main board so I
just use it as a stationary computer now.
 
--
\_(ツ)_
Mike Tomlinson <mike@jasper.org.uk>: Apr 29 03:21PM +0100

En el artículo <nft2lh$sp3$1@news.mixmin.net>, Max Muller
 
>All I'm asking is what are the numbers to look for.
 
The FRU number (field replaceable unit, IBM-speak for part) is the one
you want.
 
--
(\_/)
(='.'=) Windows 10: less of an OS, more of a drive-by mugging.
(")_(") -- "Esme" on el Reg
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Apr 29 01:26PM +0100

Got back to this digital problem. The third failed 10uF is on the
"once-reset" / normal switch Q501/502 cct, on reset. Looks as though a
failure of the cap could be interpreted as reset associated with loading
new serial data via pcb pads and sprung probes ,which never arrived,
well beyond anything I'd play with.
There is an associated set of 3 pads for BOOT1 operation, I don't
suppose anyone would know how to reset to normal mode.
I think I'll leave as is, if it ain't actually broke, then don't poke.
It should default to "performance" mode at switch on , but defaults each
time to set up mode, for nullifying any feedback spot frequencies, the
Ferret (TM).
Normally you would press the mode button for 3 seconds to set it in this
mode, then 6 seconds to go to performance.
I think they'll have to press that button 6 seconds each time of use,
although same equipment and venue each time.
"Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com>: Apr 28 10:13PM +0100

"bitrex" <bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:89STy.70619$Xn5.46496@fx39.iad...
> it very hard to desolder the 28-pin chip from the board using an iron and
> solder sucker.
 
> Is there a better way to do this?
 
The type of soldering iron with a rubber bulb solder sucker attachment can
work well, but if you take care to avoid damage from the recoil, a piston
type solder sucker can also work.
 
add flux and make sure all the solder is liquid before activating the
sucker.
 
If at first you don't succeed - remake the joint with fresh cored 60/40
solder and try again.
 
As long as you can shift about 90% of the solder out of the hole; you can
wiggle each pin free with small pointy nose pliers. Sometimes the chip will
almost fall out, but an overlooked sliver of solder can rip a via out as you
pry the chip.
 
Before levering the chip; grip the chip body and flex it in each direction,
this will contribute to freeing stuck pins and also show up the ones that
need another visit from the solder sucker.
Tekkie® <Tekkie@comcast.net>: Apr 28 02:39PM -0400

Danny DiAmico posted for all of us...
 
 
> the water supply up here. After about six months of pumping, the one gray
> well turned out to be crystalline clear (for now), so, that's been fixed.
 
> So, um, yeah. We've been busy in the boonies of Silicon Valley.
 
Glad to hear the gray well water cleaned up. Was the real problem ever
determined?
 
--
Tekkie
"Colonel Edmund J. Burke" <burkesgurlz@t-girls.com>: Apr 28 12:02PM -0700

On 4/24/2016 6:37 PM, Danny DiAmico wrote:
 
> It was bought in 2008 and it gets used about once a week or so (a bit more
> now that we have my sister and her kids living with us).
 
> Any suggestions?
 
Get out and find some rocks by a stream.
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