- ups battery - 4 Updates
- Dead Electrical - 15 Updates
- High technology - 1 Update
| "Austin Davis" <ad@test.com>: Apr 07 08:41PM -0500 How can I check a rechargeable battery to tell if it needs recharging? I want to buy a UPS battery to leave in the detached garage to charge my phone while working on the mower and other things. I don't have much luck with batteries. Years ago I used a lot of ups batteries for portable power and had problems keeping them charged. I'd think one was charged and it'd be dead when I needed it. Will a trickle charger do a good job of charging it without over charging? There isn't any power in the garage so I'll have to bring the battery into the house to charge. It's to far to run an electric cord. I listen to a lot of Internet radio out there. Maybe you can can suggest some other setup? Thanks |
| Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Apr 07 07:53PM -0700 On Thu, 07 Apr 2016 20:41:40 -0500, "Austin Davis" <ad@test.com> wrote: >How can I check a rechargeable battery >to tell if it needs recharging? It depends on the chemistry. The only sure way is to use a discharge tester. However, that doesn't tell you if it needs a charge. It tells you that your charging method is successful. There are also some tricky ways of measuring SoC (state of charge) by putting a load on the battery for a short period of time, measuring the slope of the discharge curve, and using that information to guess the SoC. APC uses this method in some of the SmartUPS designs. However, it's more of an indication that you're battery needs replacement, than a SoC. Another is a coulomb counter. That's common with LiIon battery systems. In effect, it's a data collector that tabulates the current going in and out of the battery. If the battery charge efficiency is known, the SoC can be calculated. >I want to buy a UPS battery to leave in the detached garage to charge >my phone while working on the mower and other things. I don't have >much luck with batteries. Let me guess(tm). You were trying to float charge a gel cell or AGM battery with a crude charger? Gel and AGM batteries do not like being overcharged, varying temperatures, or sitting discharged for any length of time. In other words, they're quite easy to kill. >Years ago I used a lot of ups batteries for portable power and had >problems keeping them charged. I'd think one was charged and it'd >be dead when I needed it. Offhand, I would guess that would be overcharged, and dead fairly soon after. It might also be that you discharged the gel or AGM battery too much. Discharge below about 50% SoC can kill off batteries rather quickly. >Will a trickle charger do a good job of charging it without over >charging? No, although that's controversial. My contention is that trickle charging without a full charge cutoff is guaranteed to put a thin coating of lead sulfate on the plates, which if discharged further, will kill the battery. My favored method is the usual 3 stage charger. <https://www.batterystuff.com/blog/3-stages-of-smart-chargers.html> with a total turnoff when at 100%. >There isn't any power in the garage so I'll have to bring the >battery into the house to charge. It's to far to run an electric >cord. I listen to a lot of Internet radio out there. Solar power perhaps? >Maybe you can can suggest some other setup? Google for "portable power station". <https://www.google.com/search?q=portable+power+station&tbm=isch> Get the one that has the biggest battery (heaviest weight on the specs) and claims to have a decent battery charger circuit. This may not be the best, but will probably be the cheapest. It can also be used for other things in the garage. However, don't just leave it in the garage. Bring it into the house and keep it charged to prevent sulfation. The bad news is that if you use it regularly, the typical battery life is about 5-7 years. Also, if all you want is more runtime from your smartphone, get a LiIon external battery battery for the smartphone. I have several and find them quite handy for 5V (USB) power: <https://www.google.com/search?tbm=isch&q=smartphone+external+battery+backup> They come in different sizes and battery capacities. I can't tell how big a backup you need without knowing your smartphone current drain. There should be an app for determining that on the phone. -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
| jack4747@gmail.com: Apr 08 12:39AM -0700 Il giorno venerdì 8 aprile 2016 03:41:44 UTC+2, Austin Davis ha scritto: > How can I check a rechargeable battery to tell if it needs recharging? > I want to buy a UPS battery to leave in the detached garage to charge my phone > while working on the mower and other things. I don't have much luck with > Maybe you can can suggest some other setup? buy a small solar panel. Bye Jack |
| DaveC <not@home.cow>: Apr 08 09:32AM -0700 On 7 Apr 2016, Jeff Liebermann wrote > <https://www.google.com/search?q=portable+power+station&tbm=isch> > Get the one that has the biggest battery (heaviest weight on the > specs) and claims to have a decent battery charger circuit. How about the "blue toaster"? (c; http://www.amazon.com/PowerOak-Generator-Deepfreeze-Refrigerator- AC160S/dp/B00SR4HQ62 Li-ion. |
| John-Del <ohger1s@aol.com>: Apr 07 09:53AM -0700 On Wednesday, April 6, 2016 at 7:43:17 PM UTC-4, Phil Hobbs wrote: > Briarcliff Manor NY 10510 > hobbs at electrooptical dot net > http://electrooptical.net I have always put a coating of low viscosity grease on the battery and terminal, then wiped it out. The small of amount of lubricant left will be displaced at the actual contact points over the surface of both by the clamping force and left to fill the tiny pockets of what otherwise be air and moisture. I have never had a car battery contact problem ever. |
| "Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com>: Apr 07 06:01PM +0100 "Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" <Snuffy-Hub-Cap@Livebait-McKinney.com> wrote in message news:zM6dnZ0G-_SegZnKnZ2dnUU7-LdQAAAA@earthlink.com... > large and one small wire, both going directly to the solenoid relay > mounted on the side wall. No voltage drop between battery post and relay > connection. Ground the negative probe of a voltmeter to some clean metal part of the engine block and the positive probe to the negative battery post - if the post swings negative under load; you've got a bad earth. On motorcycles, I've had bad earths between engine and frame - I've no idea whether or not that can happen on a car. But I'd assume anythings possible. |
| "Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com>: Apr 07 06:06PM +0100 "Cursitor Doom" <curd@notformail.com> wrote in message news:ne5a4h$hls$2@dont-email.me... >> You won't be able to measure 0.06 ohms. > At 200A, even one miliohm of connection resistance is going to waste 40W > of battery power. Even "not that bad" dodgy connections can waste a fair bit of power. Unless the engine bay is immaculately clean - that heat usually produces a whisp of smoke. 40W is more than a lot of soldering irons, they'd smoke if they had traces of oil on them. |
| "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney" <Snuffy-Hub-Cap@Livebait-McKinney.com>: Apr 07 09:22AM -0700 "Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" <Snuffy-Hub-Cap@Livebait-McKinney.com> wrote in message news:3KCdnSZgK6giGpvKnZ2dnUU7-N3NnZ2d@earthlink.com... On Tue, 05 Apr 2016 17:51:18 -0500, amdx wrote: > a battery/starter circuit and the starter tries to draw 200 amps, there > is 12 volts dropped across your battery connection.* > You won't be able to measure 0.06 ohms. Before and after cleaning all the connections in the starting circuit the voltage drop during starting is about the same - less than 3V. I meant to add that all the connections were tight but several had various levels of corrosion. After cleaning the overall resistance from pos or neg battery post to starter or block block went from around 1.9 to 1.4 ohms. That's not enough to prevent starting, but I suspect that one of the connections was intermittent. |
| "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney" <Snuffy-Hub-Cap@Livebait-McKinney.com>: Apr 07 09:37AM -0700 "Phil Hobbs" <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> wrote in message news:uIOdnd1oj4-SApjKnZ2dnUU7-UednZ2d@supernews.com... > high spots that actually do the conducting, it won't hurt the conductance. > What it will do is keep acid out of the joint, which is a win. > Cheers If there any chance of liquid getting in a connection and the leak can't be prevented, I would move the connection, or solder and shrink wrap it. I'm not a big fan of greasing electrical connections. |
| "Ralph Mowery" <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Apr 07 01:58PM -0400 "Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" <Snuffy-Hub-Cap@Livebait->Before and after cleaning all the connections in the starting >circuit the voltage drop during starting is about the same - >less than 3V. >neg battery post to starter or >block block went from around 1.9 to 1.4 >ohms. That's not >enough to prevent starting, but I suspect that one of > >the .connections was intermittent. Chances are the 1.9 and 1.4 ohms are some meter error problems such as the leads not making good connection to the points they are measuring. As large and as short as the wires are you should have way less than one ohm of resistance, even less than .1 of an ohm. If you had 1.4 ohms of resistance before the starter, it would never turn. The starter has less than .1 ohms of resistance. Almost all the voltage would be dropped in that 1.4 ohms and none left for the starter. With just 1.2 ohms of resistance you could only have 10 amps of current for the starter, hardly enough to make it spin. As this is electronics repair, anyone on here should be able to apply basic Ohms law to see this. |
| "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney" <Snuffy-Hub-Cap@Livebait-McKinney.com>: Apr 07 01:54PM -0700 "Ralph Mowery" <rmowery28146@earthlink.net> wrote in message news:Cv2dnSF9JYmPApvKnZ2dnUU7-cvNnZ2d@earthlink.com... > starter, hardly enough to make it spin. > As this is electronics repair, anyone on here should be able to apply basic > Ohms law to see this. Yes, you're right. The zero was offset on the meter. Measuring again showed resistance is lower than the detectable value for this meter. Thanks. |
| "Ralph Mowery" <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Apr 07 05:02PM -0400 "Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" <Snuffy-Hub-Cap@Livebait-McKinney.com> wrote in message news:U-6dnf-rl94yVZvKnZ2dnUU7-cHNnZ2d@earthlink.com... >Yes, you're right. The zero was offset on the meter. Measuring again > >showed resistance is lower than the detectable value for this meter. > >Thanks. The old faital fail to zero out the ohm meter error. Hapens to the best of us sometimes. |
| "Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com>: Apr 07 10:29PM +0100 "Ralph Mowery" <rmowery28146@earthlink.net> wrote in message news:g6adnXrxA6DTVpvKnZ2dnUU7-Y_NnZ2d@earthlink.com... >> >Thanks. > The old faital fail to zero out the ohm meter error. Hapens to the best > of us sometimes. With my DMM I have to remember to subtract about 0.2R every time. But it isn't always the same - sometimes its a few R, very occasionally it actually reads zero with the probes shorted. Its probably the sockets in the front so new leads/probes probably wouldn't fix it. I have newer meters, but I've had that on a long time and its become comfortable. |
| "Ralph Mowery" <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Apr 07 06:01PM -0400 "Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> wrote in message news:piANy.560052$py.119651@fx43.am4... > Its probably the sockets in the front so new leads/probes probably > wouldn't fix it. I have newer meters, but I've had that on a long time and > its become comfortable. Some of my meters have a button on them that will set the display to 'zero' for most functions. Some of the other inexpensive DMMs do not have any way to zero out the resistance. I even had an old one somewhere that had a zero adjustment pot similar to my trusty Simpson 260 analog. |
| "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney" <Snuffy-Hub-Cap@Livebait-McKinney.com>: Apr 07 04:43PM -0700 "Ralph Mowery" <rmowery28146@earthlink.net> wrote in message news:mLKdnaWrNd5kSpvKnZ2dnUU7-TfNnZ2d@earthlink.com... > resistance. > I even had an old one somewhere that had a zero adjustment pot similar to > my trusty Simpson 260 analog. This meter was one of the extra high quality super accurate types that Harbor Freight gives away free! :O) |
| "tom" <tmiller11147@verizon.net>: Apr 07 08:31PM -0400 "Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" <Snuffy-Hub-Cap@Livebait-McKinney.com> wrote in message news:v76dnUHA44nmbZvKnZ2dnUU7-avNnZ2d@earthlink.com... "Ralph Mowery" <rmowery28146@earthlink.net> wrote in message news:mLKdnaWrNd5kSpvKnZ2dnUU7-TfNnZ2d@earthlink.com... > resistance. > I even had an old one somewhere that had a zero adjustment pot similar to > my trusty Simpson 260 analog. This meter was one of the extra high quality super accurate types that Harbor Freight gives away free! :O) --------------------------------- Otherwise known as a "transfer standard". :) |
| "Ralph Mowery" <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Apr 07 11:26PM -0400 "Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" <Snuffy-Hub-Cap@Livebait- >This meter was one of the extra high quality super accurate types that > >Harbor Freight gives away free! :O) I have several of them. They are not too bad. I checked them using a Fluke that was verified by a standard at work that was tracable to the NIST. There is an adjustment inside them if you want to calibrate a certain scale. They are almost worth twice the price we paid for them :-) |
| Bill Martin <wwm@wwmartin.net>: Apr 07 08:25PM -0700 On 04/07/2016 05:31 PM, tom wrote: > Harbor Freight gives away free! :O) > --------------------------------- > Otherwise known as a "transfer standard". :) random number generator |
| "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney" <Snuffy-Hub-Cap@Livebait-McKinney.com>: Apr 08 07:33AM -0700 "Ralph Mowery" <rmowery28146@earthlink.net> wrote in message news:td6dnZOvEI3FuZrKnZ2dnUU7-dPNnZ2d@earthlink.com... > that was verified by a standard at work that was tracable to the NIST. > There is an adjustment inside them if you want to calibrate a certain scale. > They are almost worth twice the price we paid for them :-) Yes, they're good for general work. One tip - if the meter starts to slide off the table, let it hit the ground and don't grab one of the probes. The probe wires are about the thickness of a hair. |
| "dangerous dan" <dangerous@dan.com>: Apr 07 09:11PM -0500 > ditching their smartphones in favour of vintage cellphones with no fancy > features as they're pretty much immune from malware and hackers. > Will old film cameras be next I wonder? Does anyone want to buy an old Motorola analog bag phone, attaché model? |
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