- Vishay TSAL6102 alternative - 2 Updates
- Dead Electrical - 4 Updates
- ups battery - 1 Update
| mittra@juno.com: Apr 09 08:15AM -0700 Hello All, I am looking for an alternative to Vishay TSAL6102 (http://www.vishay.com/docs/84337/tsal6102.pdf). The two important parameters for me are (a) Irradiance (220 mW/sr) and (b) wavelength (940 nm). Response time (15 nS) and degree of 1/2 emission (+-10 degrees) are not that important but the closer a match is possible, the better. I found some matches but none of them seem to be available as sample or in quantity less than few thousands. (I am a DIYer and need only 10 or so). Any help will be greatly appreciated. |
| "pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Apr 09 09:25AM -0700 http://www.jameco.com/1/3/infrared-led-940nm http://www.ledsupply.com/leds/5mm-led-infrared-940nm-30-degree-viewing-angle?gclid=CjwKEAjw0KK4BRDCiKHD5Ny8pHESJACLE620WxgqFBZ_e1tM7TPk0NeZYQtMp-a3fricqgztRG7T5hoCfJrw_wcB http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay/TSAL6400/?qs=oSAwVt7aKTHCOCv1ythi7g%3D%3D&gclid=CjwKEAjw0KK4BRDCiKHD5Ny8pHESJACLE620j-8_fIJBifr3Wr3sO_T-36uCM4-rRJEWO1O4M5rblBoCEi7w_wcB The last link is to the original, readily available in 1 to 1000 quantities. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
| "Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com>: Apr 08 07:38PM +0100 "Ralph Mowery" <rmowery28146@earthlink.net> wrote in message news:td6dnZOvEI3FuZrKnZ2dnUU7-dPNnZ2d@earthlink.com... > NIST. > There is an adjustment inside them if you want to calibrate a certain > scale. My first ever DMM came out the bin where I worked at the time, resistance and ACV ranges were dead. Inside was an LSI chip and a socketed dual op-amp - nothing to lose, I tried changing the op-amp. There was a preset pot on the board, so with the missing ranges restored, I was able to borrow a traceable certificate instrument to set it up by. |
| Rheilly Phoull <rheilly@bigslong.com>: Apr 09 08:05AM +0800 >> "So when is grease on the terminals bad ??" > Before it is connected. After it is connected grease helps keep the elements away but you don't want it between the mating surfaces. Hmmm, I wonder how all those switches immersed in oil ever work ?? |
| jurb6006@gmail.com: Apr 08 05:14PM -0700 >"Hmmm, I wonder how all those switches immersed in oil ever work ?? " They are designed for it. Line of contact where the spring pressure rests and forces metal to metal contact. This is not the same thing. this is a round cylinder with a clamp on it that is supposed to make connection good for a couple hundred amps. When GM came out with the side post battery, there could be grease in there because they had raised parts on the connectors that actually dug into the lead. Really, side post batteries were a disaster, a piece of shit. I knew alot of people who converted them to the normal top post. Thing is, the terminals that connect to the batter are smooth. If they put teeth on them that would be different. then you could grease the shit out of them. bnut they don't do that and actually they have good reason. Bottom line, clean everything best you can, make the connection and tighten it, and then apply the protective grease of your choice. Take my word for it, I have been at this for a while. |
| whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Apr 09 12:11AM -0700 On Friday, April 8, 2016 at 5:03:01 PM UTC-7, Rheilly Phoull wrote: > >> "So when is grease on the terminals bad ??" > > Before it is connected. After it is connected grease helps keep the elements away but you don't want it between the mating surfaces. > Hmmm, I wonder how all those switches immersed in oil ever work ?? There's lots of kinds of grease. Some has particles that help prevent wear, but also prevent metal-metal contact. Some has conductive particles, that might cause unintended conduction. Some has semiconducting particles, especially to enhance electrical contact. And some, like petroleum jelly or silicone grease, has no capability to hold metal parts apart (but is good against corrosion and/or condensing moisture). |
| Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Apr 08 10:11AM -0700 >How about the "blue toaster"? (c; ><http://www.amazon.com/PowerOak-Generator-Deepfreeze-Refrigerator-AC160S/dp/B00SR4HQ62> >Li-ion. Overkill. He's trying to power a lousy smartphone, not power the entire garage. Also, I have my doubts about using a LiIon battery for backup power. The problem is that LiIon batteries deteriorate if left at 100% charge full time: <http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_prolong_lithium_based_batteries> <http://www.mpoweruk.com/lithium_failures.htm> Some laptops have a "battery saver" profile, that charges the laptop battery to 50-60% SoC in order to extend the battery life. APC does offer a LiIon UPS (BG500). I haven't dug into their design yet to see what they're doing: <http://www.apcmedia.com/salestools/GHSA-97F4WW/GHSA-97F4WW_R0_EN.pdf> <http://www.amazon.com/APC-BG500-Back-UPS-Pro-500/dp/B00DW2J7SY> It has a 3 year warranty. -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
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