- OT A drone-mounted chainsaw, what could possibly go wrong? - 1 Update
- Debug advice Kenmore coldspot 106-59422801 stopped refrigerating - 10 Updates
- Mains hash problem - 1 Update
| ohger1s@gmail.com: Jul 10 12:24PM -0700 On Friday, July 8, 2016 at 1:48:45 PM UTC-4, Micky wrote: > When the chain saw chain hits the branch, the chainsaw/drone will be > flung forward before it can cut anything. Strange how someone with enough knowledge to modify/construct and balance a drone large enough to lift a chain saw wouldn't understand this. At best if the chain were removed it would make a terrifying prop or gag to scare the beejeezus out of someone. |
| Bob Engelhardt <BobEngelhardt@comcast.net>: Jul 09 10:31PM -0400 On 7/9/2016 10:17 PM, Danny D. wrote: > Then I created a test jig and hooked it up, without a capacitor. > When I powered it up, the compressor still didn't run. > http://i.cubeupload.com/fXXnOi.jpg Can you modify your test jig to include the cap? Wire it in series in the start wire. |
| "Danny D." <dannydiamico@yahoo.com>: Jul 10 04:04AM On Sat, 09 Jul 2016 20:23:14 -0400, Bob Engelhardt wrote: > the 120 input and the Start output. If you can't tell which input is > 120 & which is neutral, try them both. > Bob Thank you Bob for suggesting jumping the capacitor terminals to short them out, as that gave me some additional connectivity diagnostic information when I checked continuity: http://i.cubeupload.com/3tJTV7.jpg The relay has only two wires going into it, and three holes coming out. http://i.cubeupload.com/HBepTj.jpg Disconnected from power, and with the capacitor terminals shorted: a. Red power input terminal went directly to the relay top output pin b. White neutral input terminal went directly to *both* lower output pins http://i.cubeupload.com/I3t2HZ.jpg If I remove the short between the capacitor pins, it changes to: a. Red power input still went directly to the relay top output pin b. White neutral input still went directly to the rearward lower output pin c. White neutral input no longer innervates the forward lower output pin http://i.cubeupload.com/JwcELQ.jpg Unfortunately, it appears that the relay & cap are working. Do you interpret this the same as I do? |
| "Danny D." <dannydiamico@yahoo.com>: Jul 10 04:26AM On Sat, 09 Jul 2016 22:31:42 -0400, Bob Engelhardt wrote: > Can you modify your test jig to include the cap? > Wire it in series in the start wire. I will make any jumper cable we need to debug this darn thing. Since it appears (to me anyway) that both the cap and the relay are working, that leaves mainly the compressor to test (which is critical). If my prior tests of the relay were accurate, they seem to indicate a working relay, since there is 120VAC across the two lower terminals to the upper power terminal. I wish the motor had a marking for the Start terminal versus the Mark/Run terminal and common, but there is nothing marked I can decipher. A. POWER TERMINAL B. RUN TERMINAL (aka MARK terminal) C. START TERMINAL So these are just my guesses for the three terminals: http://i.cubeupload.com/nsw1mt.jpg Given that, is this your suggestion for wiring the cap in series: 1. From the power cord (red) hot wire to the top POWER terminal of the compressor. 2. From the power cord (white) neutral wire split into two wires: 2a. From the power cord (white) neutral to the MARK/RUN rearward lower pin on the compressor. 2b. From the power cord (white) neutral to the cap in series and from the cap to the START forward lower pin on the compressor. Is that what you are suggesting I test? |
| "Mr Pounder Esquire" <MrPounder@RationalThought.com>: Jul 09 07:20PM +0100 Stormin Mormon wrote: >> electrical repairs*]? Please write back, and we'll >> continue the discussion. > Since you missed the question the first time. Classic signs of fucked compressor. |
| "Gareth Magennis" <soundserviceleeds@outlook.com>: Jul 09 08:23PM +0100 "Stormin Mormon" wrote in message news:iR9gz.23685$nK.23155@fx06.iad... On 7/8/2016 7:47 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote: > If it's out of warranty, [*are you any good with > electrical repairs*]? Please write back, and we'll > continue the discussion. Since you missed the question the first time. -- . Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus . www.lds.org . . Christopher, can you perhaps leave "Jesus" out of this thread? Cheers, Gareth. |
| etpm@whidbey.com: Jul 09 02:04PM -0700 On Sat, 9 Jul 2016 00:49:13 -0000 (UTC), "Danny D. " >http://i.cubeupload.com/p2OiCZ.jpg (same pic as before) >In an hour or so, when the "sealed unit" has cooled down, I'll plug it back >in and report back. The sealed unit contains at least a motor and compressor. I dunno about a solenoid. It gets hot when the motor can't start because instead of the electrical energy being converted into mechanical energy which is then distributed throughout the fridge system it is converted directly into heat. The reason you can't replace the sealed unit is because it is connected to the system that circulates the refrigerant and cutting the copper tubes will let out the refrigerant and lube oil and let in air. So be careful when working around the copper tubes. If they are bent enough to constrict the flow the fridge won't work properly and if one breaks the only thing you can do is either get someone with the proper equipment to fix it or buy another fridge. Eric |
| Oren <Oren@127.0.0.1>: Jul 09 02:04PM -0700 On Sat, 9 Jul 2016 16:49:03 -0000 (UTC), "Danny D." >PS: Is polygamy still allowed? Channel surf, find the show "Sister Wives". Las Vegas court cases... yep -- ... if I had the perfect woman, I'd want twins -- Blackberry Smoke |
| Bob Engelhardt <BobEngelhardt@comcast.net>: Jul 10 01:42PM -0400 On 7/10/2016 12:04 AM, Danny D. wrote: > http://i.cubeupload.com/JwcELQ.jpg > Unfortunately, it appears that the relay & cap are working. > Do you interpret this the same as I do? Yes, I think that's right. Except that it's standard to switch the "hot" line, not the neutral. Are you sure that the white input wires are neutral? White is the usual color for neutral, but inside an appliance they could do otherwise. |
| Bob Engelhardt <BobEngelhardt@comcast.net>: Jul 10 01:48PM -0400 On 7/10/2016 12:26 AM, Danny D. wrote: > C. START TERMINAL > So these are just my guesses for the three terminals: > http://i.cubeupload.com/nsw1mt.jpg I agree > 2b. From the power cord (white) neutral to the cap in series and from the > cap to the START forward lower pin on the compressor. > Is that what you are suggesting I test? Yes. And as the parts guy advised, as soon as the motor starts, disconnect the START pin. |
| Oren <Oren@127.0.0.1>: Jul 10 12:22PM -0700 On Sat, 9 Jul 2016 22:48:07 -0000 (UTC), "Danny D." >The wife and sister were very unhappy that I came home, essentially, empty >handed. But the guy was right that I didn't do enough diagnostics. Send the wimmin folk to buy dry ice. Don't come back empty handed. |
| N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jul 10 10:24AM +0100 One more observation. The mounting bracket under the Tx is made of mu-metal (place a small steel screw above and moving a magnet below has no effect). So that in conjunction with the gaffer tape must be something to do with minimising hum/hash, factory set on the torquing-up. So any "undesigned" stressing via messing with the mounting bolts or dropping the whole cab for instance, could destroy the mu-metal effect and lead to a noise increase I suppose. |
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