| "Danny D." <dannydiamico@yahoo.com>: Jul 09 04:43PM On Sat, 09 Jul 2016 08:10:19 -0700, Oren wrote: > freezer for ~$52. It was smelling and sizzling trying to start the > compressor. > Huckleberry Thanks Huckleberry for always being there for me! That page was helpful but confusing at the same time partly because I was hoping that I could jump 120 volts to two of the three terminals of the compressor to see if it runs. If it runs, that would be proof that the compressor is fine - which - after all - is the only part that would kill the frig if it wasn't working. The page talked about various letters stamped on the relay, and a magnetic switch but mine has no letters on it and there is no magnetic switch. http://www.geeksonhome.com/how_7901874_test-compressor-refrigerator.html Anyway, I think I'll just replace both the cap and the overload/start relay combo, and if that works - you guys are heros. If not. Well then, you're Elderberrys! :) Elderberry |
| Stormin Mormon <cayoung61@hotmail.com>: Jul 09 12:44PM -0400 On 7/8/2016 7:47 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote: > If it's out of warranty, [*are you any good with > electrical repairs*]? Please write back, and we'll > continue the discussion. Since you missed the question the first time. -- . Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus . www.lds.org . . |
| "Danny D." <dannydiamico@yahoo.com>: Jul 09 04:47PM On Sat, 9 Jul 2016 01:56:54 -0700 (PDT), Uncle Monster wrote: > Someone has already mentioned cleaning the dust elephants out of the condenser. Dirt buildup causes stress on the compressor because it's more difficult for it to get rid of the heat causing it to work so much harder. The prices on the diagram looked pretty high so if there is a local appliance parts company or a Johnstone Supply in your area, it may be a good idea to replace both capacitor and thermal overload relay. ^_^ > https://www.johnstonesupply.com/storefront/ Hi Uncle Fridge Monster, We let it cool overnight and reassembled the cap & start relay and plugged it in a few times. Here is a video of what happened. http://tinypic.com/r/20ubk3d/9 Can anyone tell, from that video, what is happening? |
| "Danny D." <dannydiamico@yahoo.com>: Jul 09 04:49PM On Sat, 9 Jul 2016 12:41:11 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote: > And, won't prevent you from being a Mormon. If I become a Mormon, do I have to tell my Italian wife? Maybe I'll make a deal with her: Mormon for the refrigerator? PS: Is polygamy still allowed? |
| Bob Engelhardt <BobEngelhardt@comcast.net>: Jul 09 12:50PM -0400 On 7/9/2016 12:36 PM, Danny D. wrote: ... > 1. Compressor contacts: > Any two of all three pegged the ohmmeter needle to the zero ohms end. > Assumption: The two wire coils inside are good. Agree > Any two of all three pegged the ohmmeter needle to the infinite end. > Assumption: I'm not sure what to make of that because it's clearly > getting power to the motor in some way and then shutting off in some way. There should not be any connections between these contacts. They will have connections to the input power contacts and the cap contacts. Involving the relay. Without know the internal circuitry, you can't diagnose it. > I don't have a farad tester, so, I just checked to see if the contacts > were shorted but they are open to a Radio Shack needle ohm meter (AAA > battery). You know it's not shorted (unlikely from the start). To check for not open: - put the meter on the highest ohm setting - momentarily short the cap contacts - touch the cap contacts with the meter leads - the needle should swing to a high reading as the cap charging current flows & then fall to zero as the cap becomes fully charged Bob |
| Bob Engelhardt <BobEngelhardt@comcast.net>: Jul 09 12:57PM -0400 On 7/9/2016 12:47 PM, Danny D. wrote: ... > Can anyone tell, from that video, what is happening? Yep - this video is telling the same story as the first one: the motor tries to start & the overload clicks open when it overheats from the excessive current. (It's probably a bimetal leaf.) |
| Oren <Oren@127.0.0.1>: Jul 09 10:05AM -0700 On Sat, 9 Jul 2016 16:43:47 -0000 (UTC), "Danny D." >compressor to see if it runs. If it runs, that would be proof that the >compressor is fine - which - after all - is the only part that would kill >the frig if it wasn't working. Above my pay grade, Danny. There is a guy on Youtube that harvested a compressor, tested it, and he built a unit for his air brushing needs. It was fancy stuff. If I find the link in saved URLs, I'll post it fer ya. I'm not really motivated today :-\ |
| Oren <Oren@127.0.0.1>: Jul 09 10:20AM -0700 On Sat, 9 Jul 2016 16:43:47 -0000 (UTC), "Danny D." >The page talked about various letters stamped on the relay, and a magnetic >switch but mine has no letters on it and there is no magnetic switch. >http://www.geeksonhome.com/how_7901874_test-compressor-refrigerator.html My memory fails. Awhile back there was a link or video about the sequence of how you test the pins. No clue if it is accurate or correct. Blank stare: 1) Bottom two pins 2) Bottom right and top 3) Top and Bottom left -- "We recommend using your hand to replace the fuse as it will take much longer using your knee." |
| "Mr Pounder Esquire" <MrPounder@RationalThought.com>: Jul 09 07:20PM +0100 Stormin Mormon wrote: >> electrical repairs*]? Please write back, and we'll >> continue the discussion. > Since you missed the question the first time. Classic signs of fucked compressor. |
| "Gareth Magennis" <soundserviceleeds@outlook.com>: Jul 09 08:23PM +0100 "Stormin Mormon" wrote in message news:iR9gz.23685$nK.23155@fx06.iad... On 7/8/2016 7:47 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote: > If it's out of warranty, [*are you any good with > electrical repairs*]? Please write back, and we'll > continue the discussion. Since you missed the question the first time. -- . Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus . www.lds.org . . Christopher, can you perhaps leave "Jesus" out of this thread? Cheers, Gareth. |
| Stormin Mormon <cayoung61@hotmail.com>: Jul 09 04:42PM -0400 On 7/9/2016 12:47 PM, Danny D. wrote: > it in a few times. Here is a video of what happened. > http://tinypic.com/r/20ubk3d/9 > Can anyone tell, from that video, what is happening? Yes. I can. Totally what I diagnosed yesterday. -- . Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus . www.lds.org . . |
| Stormin Mormon <cayoung61@hotmail.com>: Jul 09 04:43PM -0400 On 7/9/2016 12:49 PM, Danny D. wrote: > On Sat, 9 Jul 2016 12:41:11 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote: >> And, won't prevent you from being a Mormon. > If I become a Mormon, do I have to tell my Italian wife? CY: Yes, many Italians are Mormons. > Maybe I'll make a deal with her: > Mormon for the refrigerator? CY: She'll love it! > PS: Is polygamy still allowed? CY: Not since 1890. -- . Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus . www.lds.org . . |
| Stormin Mormon <cayoung61@hotmail.com>: Jul 09 04:49PM -0400 On 7/9/2016 2:20 PM, Mr Pounder Esquire wrote: >> Since you missed the question the first time. > Classic signs of fucked compressor. Says you. I've worked on more than a few of these, and the compressor was fine. -- . Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus . www.lds.org . . |
| "James Wilkinson" <invalid@something.com>: Jul 09 09:53PM +0100 >> Classic signs of fucked compressor. > Says you. I've worked on more than a few of > these, and the compressor was fine. You doubt the opinion of someone who spent his life hanging fire extinguishers on walls? -- If breasts had no nipples, they'd be pointless. |
| etpm@whidbey.com: Jul 09 02:04PM -0700 On Sat, 9 Jul 2016 00:49:13 -0000 (UTC), "Danny D. " >http://i.cubeupload.com/p2OiCZ.jpg (same pic as before) >In an hour or so, when the "sealed unit" has cooled down, I'll plug it back >in and report back. The sealed unit contains at least a motor and compressor. I dunno about a solenoid. It gets hot when the motor can't start because instead of the electrical energy being converted into mechanical energy which is then distributed throughout the fridge system it is converted directly into heat. The reason you can't replace the sealed unit is because it is connected to the system that circulates the refrigerant and cutting the copper tubes will let out the refrigerant and lube oil and let in air. So be careful when working around the copper tubes. If they are bent enough to constrict the flow the fridge won't work properly and if one breaks the only thing you can do is either get someone with the proper equipment to fix it or buy another fridge. Eric |
| Oren <Oren@127.0.0.1>: Jul 09 02:04PM -0700 On Sat, 9 Jul 2016 16:49:03 -0000 (UTC), "Danny D." >PS: Is polygamy still allowed? Channel surf, find the show "Sister Wives". Las Vegas court cases... yep -- ... if I had the perfect woman, I'd want twins -- Blackberry Smoke |
| "Danny D." <dannydiamico@yahoo.com>: Jul 09 10:48PM On Sat, 09 Jul 2016 10:20:40 -0700, Oren wrote: > 2) Bottom right and top > 3) Top and Bottom left > -- Went to a great appliance store in San Jose where the guy behind the counter tested the cap and said it was good. He said the compressor not working could be three things: 1. Bad compressor 2. Bad relay 3. Restriction in the freon lines He strongly suggested I not buy his relay from him before testing it, and he explained how the relay works (the white part is the thermal switch by the way). He said to plug in the power to the relay (two spades) and check that the backside of the relay (3 pins) has power to common. To do this, he told me to create a test jig where I can put 120 volts to the Start and Main/Run pins of the compressor, with the neutral on the common pin, and then pull off the start once the compressor starts. He said if the compressor doesn't start - then that's it for the frig. So I went home empty handed and then picked up some alligator clips, spades, and butt connectors and am slapping together a test jig as we type. The wife and sister were very unhappy that I came home, essentially, empty handed. But the guy was right that I didn't do enough diagnostics. The test jig will have two spades on the incoming end, which will plug into the existing power cable (hot and neutral), and then it will have three outputs which will be tube-connectors (two hots and one neutral). The procedure will be: 1. Unplug power 2. Hook two male spades to female spades in power cord 3. Hook a butt plug to Start (hot) and to Run/Main (hot) and to neutral 4. Plug it in 5. Yank off the start wire as soon as the compressor starts If the compressor starts, then it's good. If not ... |
| "Danny D." <dannydiamico@yahoo.com>: Jul 09 10:50PM On Sat, 09 Jul 2016 12:57:59 -0400, Bob Engelhardt wrote: > Yep - this video is telling the same story as the first one: the motor > tries to start & the overload clicks open when it overheats from the > excessive current. (It's probably a bimetal leaf.) The guy at the parts store showed me a type of relay that has a semiconductor disc inside which shatters, and when you shake the relay, if it's broken, it rattles. The one he had on the counter rattled, but he said mine isn't that kind (probably a bimetallic strip as you said). He really talked me out of buying both parts. They were each about 50 bucks, and he said I'd just be unhappy. So he sent me home to do some more diagnostics with a test cable, which I'm gonna make now. |
| Stormin Mormon <cayoung61@hotmail.com>: Jul 09 07:19PM -0400 On 7/9/2016 6:50 PM, Danny D. wrote: > He really talked me out of buying both parts. They were each about 50 > bucks, and he said I'd just be unhappy. So he sent me home to do some more > diagnostics with a test cable, which I'm gonna make now. Danny, are my posts making it through your server? -- . Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus . www.lds.org . . |
| Stormin Mormon <cayoung61@hotmail.com>: Jul 09 07:20PM -0400 On 7/9/2016 6:48 PM, Danny D. wrote: > 5. Yank off the start wire as soon as the compressor starts > If the compressor starts, then it's good. > If not ... Danny, are my posts making it to you, through your server? You've not answered my question. And you're going through a lot of bother which isn't really needed. But, did you ever do any thing simple? I leave you to your complications. -- . Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus . www.lds.org . . |
| Bob Engelhardt <BobEngelhardt@comcast.net>: Jul 09 08:00PM -0400 On 7/9/2016 6:48 PM, Danny D. wrote: ... > 5. Yank off the start wire as soon as the compressor starts > If the compressor starts, then it's good. > If not ... There's something missing here & that is the cap. As I understand it, the cap is wired in series with the start winding in order to phase shift its current and get the motor started in the right direction. Without the cap, I don't think that the motor will start. Bob |
| Bob Engelhardt <BobEngelhardt@comcast.net>: Jul 09 08:23PM -0400 On 7/9/2016 8:00 PM, Bob Engelhardt wrote: > shift its current and get the motor started in the right direction. > Without the cap, I don't think that the motor will start. > Bob Also, now knowing what the output terminals of the relay are, one can diagnose it directly. Its circuit follows: --||-- cap | | v v v v | | 120 <----OVERLOAD----.---RELAY---| |-----< Start | |-----------------------< Run Neu <----------------------------------------< neutral The relay & cap could be in reversed order. If you jumper the cap terminals, there should be zero resistance between the 120 input and the Start output. If you can't tell which input is 120 & which is neutral, try them both. Bob |
| "Danny D." <dannydiamico@yahoo.com>: Jul 10 02:17AM On Sat, 09 Jul 2016 20:00:22 -0400, Bob Engelhardt wrote: > the cap is wired in series with the start winding in order to phase > shift its current and get the motor started in the right direction. > Without the cap, I don't think that the motor will start. You're right. http://i.cubeupload.com/fXXnOi.jpg By gathering clues, I figured out which is the neutral on the compressor and which was the always powered pin, and which was the sometimes powered pin. Then I created a test jig and hooked it up, without a capacitor. When I powered it up, the compressor still didn't run. http://i.cubeupload.com/fXXnOi.jpg |
| whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Jul 09 07:31PM -0700 On Friday, July 8, 2016 at 5:51:49 PM UTC-7, Bob Engelhardt wrote: > Also - the 10 or 20 seconds of humming that you hear is the motor TRYING > to start. It can't without the cap & that that why the "bulb" is hot. It isn't always a capacitor; 'relay' and 'NTC resistor' are other start components that one might encounter. |
| Bob Engelhardt <BobEngelhardt@comcast.net>: Jul 09 10:31PM -0400 On 7/9/2016 10:17 PM, Danny D. wrote: > Then I created a test jig and hooked it up, without a capacitor. > When I powered it up, the compressor still didn't run. > http://i.cubeupload.com/fXXnOi.jpg Can you modify your test jig to include the cap? Wire it in series in the start wire. |
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