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| "tom" <tmiller11147@verizon.net>: Jul 09 02:49AM -0400 "Danny D." <dannydiamico@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:nlq1vt$km$1@news.mixmin.net... > b) relay, or > c) new frig? > Any idea how to test the relay? Some Digital Multimeters can measure capacitance. Can you find one that will? Ebay maybe? Measure the capacitor - it should be close to 12 uF. You should clean out all the dust on the black condenser coils shown in the one picture. You might pop the tabs on the relay (give it a good pull or pry with a screwdriver) and inspect the contact points inside. Also check that the coil is not open (with the DMM). Or just take a chance and get new parts. A new refer will be costly. |
| Stormin Mormon <cayoung61@hotmail.com>: Jul 09 07:18AM -0400 On 7/8/2016 10:40 PM, Danny D. wrote: > Is it even possible for a homeowner to replace the compressor #28? No. Sorry, but that takes a lot of skills that the average HO does not have. -- . Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus . www.lds.org . . |
| Stormin Mormon <cayoung61@hotmail.com>: Jul 09 07:21AM -0400 On 7/9/2016 1:27 AM, Danny D. wrote: > b) relay, or > c) new frig? > Any idea how to test the relay? d) the suggestion Stormy gave yesterday. I've never tested a relay. Just replace, and see if the unit comes back to life. You may also answer my question, if you wish. The one I asked yesterday. -- . Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus . www.lds.org . . |
| Oren <Oren@127.0.0.1>: Jul 09 08:10AM -0700 On Sat, 9 Jul 2016 05:27:26 -0000 (UTC), "Danny D." >Note to Oren: Those aren't huckleberries; 'dems elderberries! Hey! You can test the compressor for continuity to determine if it's bad... <http://www.geeksonhome.com/how_7901874_test-compressor-refrigerator.html> Check Youtube for some videos, too. I agree with those it may just be the "start/run/cap". Fixed my freezer for ~$52. It was smelling and sizzling trying to start the compressor. Huckleberry |
| "Danny D." <dannydiamico@yahoo.com>: Jul 09 04:29PM On Sat, 9 Jul 2016 07:21:31 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote: > and see if the unit comes back to life. > You may also answer my question, if you > wish. The one I asked yesterday. Hi Chris, I answer *all* questions, so I apologize if I missed one of yours. Thanks to you, I had the courage to pry harder on the combined "Refrigerator Overload and Start Relay" to pull it off. http://i.cubeupload.com/ewhAUP.jpg The "courage" here is better than a shot of whiskey because you give me the confidence that I just need to try harder! :) |
| "Danny D." <dannydiamico@yahoo.com>: Jul 09 04:36PM On Sat, 9 Jul 2016 02:49:54 -0400, tom wrote: > screwdriver) and inspect the contact points inside. Also check that the coil > is not open (with the DMM). > Or just take a chance and get new parts. A new refer will be costly. Here is an annotated picture of some quick test results: http://i.cubeupload.com/PmCLK7.jpg After cooling down the motor overnight, plugging it in, we can hear the solenoid click on and the motor hum until it clicks off. (I'm trying to find a way to upload that video for you but it's 13MB). I checked resistance of all that I could with the following results: 1. Compressor contacts: Any two of all three pegged the ohmmeter needle to the zero ohms end. Assumption: The two wire coils inside are good. 2. Overload & Start Relay contacts: Any two of all three pegged the ohmmeter needle to the infinite end. Assumption: I'm not sure what to make of that because it's clearly getting power to the motor in some way and then shutting off in some way. 3. Run Capacitor: I don't have a farad tester, so, I just checked to see if the contacts were shorted but they are open to a Radio Shack needle ohm meter (AAA battery). |
| Stormin Mormon <cayoung61@hotmail.com>: Jul 09 12:41PM -0400 On 7/9/2016 12:29 PM, Danny D. wrote: > http://i.cubeupload.com/ewhAUP.jpg > The "courage" here is better than a shot of whiskey because you give me the > confidence that I just need to try harder! :) And, won't prevent you from being a Mormon. -- . Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus . www.lds.org . . |
| Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net>: Jul 09 11:31AM -0400 On 07/08/2016 01:48 PM, Micky wrote: >> So its different from a laser which emits a highly concentrated >> beam of light that can help with cutting, joining, fashioning, >> etc... Nah, you just have the drone wrap some det cord around the branch and then set it off from a safe distance. Cheers Phil Hobbs -- Dr Philip C D Hobbs Principal Consultant ElectroOptical Innovations LLC Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics 160 North State Road #203 Briarcliff Manor NY 10510 hobbs at electrooptical dot net http://electrooptical.net |
| N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jul 09 11:15AM +0100 > add a suitable safety rated Y cap. > Google Y cap. > M It makes you wonder how they can use guitar amps in the USA, with just 2 pin plugs and that cap to chassis to offset ac leakage. This is a Roland Cube 15X , so not worth any more pissing about, other than this exploration , before replacing the factory fitted 2 core cable, with 3 core. Touching chassis with 18 Meg and will reduce the hum, touching with 3 Gigohms and no noticeable drop in hum. Ordinary DVM-V(ac) between good ground and 12-0-12 secondaries , measure attenuated 13,17,21V of the floating 50Hz leakage. Replacing the Tx bolts with nylon and retaining the original gaffer tape insulation (not that heatsink cloth, the black stuff used for holding back small wiring ) and touching the Tx ,then drops the hum to nearly touching chassis level. Placing 1/4 nylon spacers under as well as gaffer then drops to 18M touch level to chassis. Someone has obviously graunched up the 2 Tx bolts, so perhaps that was precisely set torque plus threadlock for minimum "hum", or being PAT tested, or old age has disturbed whatever factory fudge they found for offetting the leakage for a particular batch of mains Txs. |
| Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jul 09 05:53AM -0700 Nutcase Kook wrote: > It makes you wonder how they can use guitar amps in the USA, with just 2 > pin plugs and that cap to chassis to offset ac leakage. ** Not since the very early 70s have 2 pin *only* outlets plugs been common in the USA. Prior to that, mains hum with guitar amp was considered *100%* NORMAL. The use of polarity switches and DEATH caps was lethal and is now banned. You stinking, lying retard. > This is a Roland Cube 15X , ** Really ? Post a bloody schem. .... Phil |
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