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Samuel Charles <samuelcharles921@gmail.com>: Jul 02 04:51AM -0700 Read the reviews of computer accessories and find the best one that suits to your needs by contacting the experts through our directory as it helps you to get accessories in great deals.   http://www.nillowpages.com/category/itproducts/

Tim Schwartz <tim@bristolnj.com>: Jul 02 07:07AM -0400 Hello all,   Does anyone have a service manual for a KLH 100 table radio that they would be willing to sell, copy or lend out? This radio was made in Japan by Kyocera when Kyocera owned the KLH name. While it looks about the same, it has a totally different board from the KLH 200, which is a stereo version.   Regards, Tim Schwartz Bristol Electronics

Tim Schwartz <tim@bristolnj.com>: Jul 02 07:02AM -0400 Hello all,   I'm working on a Tandberg 2075 receiver which has a bad signal strength meter. The coils are corroded, so there is no saving the meter. Anyone have a scrap unit?   I think the meter from other models (2025/2040/2055) will work as well. This meter has a blue face.   Please contact me directly if you have one you are willing to sell.   Regards, Tim Schwartz Bristol Electronics

etpm@whidbey.com: Jul 01 10:45AM -0700 I bought a used forklift and the battery, even though only a couple years old, was almost dead from sitting too long without being charged. I got the lift to my shop and put a charger on it overnight. All seemed well, the engine starts fast and all that. So a few days later the propane ran out and the engine died. I got the propane tank filled that day and installed it the next day, When I tried to start the lift I realized I had left the ignition on overnight and the battery was dead. Again. So I put the charger on again and even with the switch in the 3 amp position the battery was drawing almost 15 amps. So a cell must have shorted out. Probably from sulfation. I watched the charger carefully and the current dropped to 3 amps after about 15 minutes so I figured the short must be gone. I left the charger on the 3 amp setting overnight. The next morning the battery was still drawing 3 amps. I then switched the charger to the 12 amp setting and let the battery charge until the amperage draw was down to about 6 amps. I then switched the charger back to the 3 amp setting and after about 6 hours the draw is down to about 1 amp. I left the battery on the charger overnight again and it is still drawing only about 1 amp. All the cells bubble slightly while charging at the higher current setting so I think they must all be charging. I have checked the fluid level in all the cells and none are low. In fact, they are all about the same level. After cranking the engine for about 60 seconds total in three tries the voltage of the battery is still 12.57 volts and during cranking didn't drop below 12 volts. The battery is the typical industrial type, long and narrow, not almost square like a car battery. After this long winded description I want to know how long should I keep charging the battery at the 1 amp level in order to remove as much sulfation as possible. Thanks, Eric

Jon Elson <jmelson@wustl.edu>: Jul 01 02:24PM -0500 > After this long winded description I want > to know how long should I keep charging the battery at the 1 amp > level in order to remove as much sulfation as possible. I'm not sure long-term charging removes sulfation. Possibly cyclical charge-discharge cycles does. If you could crank for 60 seconds and the battery was still showing 12.57 V, I think you are done (other than recharging it from that test.)   Jon

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Jul 01 12:26PM -0700 On Friday, July 1, 2016 at 1:41:30 PM UTC-4, et...@whidbey.com wrote: I want > to know how long should I keep charging the battery at the 1 amp > level in order to remove as much sulfation as possible.   It would be useful to know the rating of the battery, but if that is an industrial battery and used regularly, you should be able to keep it charging at 1A almost indefinitely - operative word being "almost". I suggest you get a modern charger that has an automatic switch-over mode to trickle and leave that connected pretty much all of the time.   And, if you are having hard time starting this beast, and it has an old-fashioned distributor with points, by leaving the ignition on all night, you have fried them - and they will need to be replaced. Only speculating.   If you do have points, while you are in there, do the condenser as well. And check the coil. Again, if it is of that vintage technology.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

avagadro7@gmail.com: Jul 01 05:46PM -0700 uneeda closed cell unit   read thru here   https://www.google.com/#q=lead+acid+battery+recondition+charge

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jul 02 10:55AM +0100 > level in order to remove as much sulfation as possible. > Thanks, > Eric   AFAIK, to stand any chance of de-sulphating, without getting inside, is to try asymetric/biaced ac charging, using ac with more positive component than negative, so 50/60Hz charge/discharge cycling, can't remember current required per Ah

avagadro7@gmail.com: Jul 01 05:43PM -0700 > That is because the bean counters now outrank the engineers. Let's put it this way, my sister is throwing out a three year old refrigerator. Realize that the 30 year old refrigerators are mostly still running.   > Yup, Dodge v Ford was the worst thing to happen to this country. But then I imagine it is the same all over. If you could find companies that are not publicly traded you might get quality product, but nobody wants to use their own money for startup. Plus they ALSO want to make as much money as possible for the least work possible.   > So we got what we got.   2 power units, one a generator and one a Ford 120amp alternator burned down feeding lights, an inverter to laptop over forest roads at 7-12 mph.   The system's design is capable at rush hour with a good battery otherwise sales will suffer. many comment on the occasional Dodge Groups product parked roadside with electrical problems.

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