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KenO <kenitholson@yahoo.com>: Aug 15 08:45AM -0700 Received a Samsung UN32EH4003FXZA LED TV with starting problems. From experience with this model guessed it had bad cap(s) so checked the Power Supply and found the 47uF 160 V cap starting to bulge. The adjacent 47 200 V cap and all the other caps are OK.   To date, the best video I have found for this model TV problem is by radiotvphononut https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9yLLAnjpTLI   I would like to upgrade this failed 47uF 160 V cap so would appreciate any suggestions.   Thanks   Ken

"Ron D." <Ron.Dozier@gmail.com>: Aug 14 04:14PM -0700 One reason that would happen is if the AC is set to take in outside air. To get the coldest AC, you want to use recirculate. Also depending on humidity don;t expect a change of more that 15-20 degrees F of the intake and discharged air.   If outside air is used and say the temp is 90 outside, you only get say 75 deg degree air no matter what. If you were using recirculate, eventually, the cabin temp would be 70F and then further cooling it would lower it to say 65 and even further yet and you will have to add a bit of heat.   One thing that's useful is to use the AC and heat at the same time when it's raining and cold. The AC will de-humidify and the heater will heat making the air actually feel warmer.   AC On and pointed to the front window will defog while Heat pointed at the window will defrost.

Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: Aug 15 06:09AM -0700 > avag...@gmail.com:   > Coldness "increases" at higher fan speeds because the higher fan speed moves a higher volume of air per minute from plenum into the cabin. The air itself doesn't get any colder - that is dictated by the compressor and the user temperature setting.   I'm speculating rashly here because I don't know how the automotive AC works.   But it's the internet so I'll think out loud based on a building AC setup.   There is no such thing as cold. There is only greater and lesser heat.   Dumping cold air into a space does not cool it UNLESS you are sucking warm air out.   In a building, there is a supply and a return. The return sucks out hot air and then the supply lets some cooler air move in and mix. No return, no cooling.   So MAYBE in a car, a higher speed will suck more hot air out of the space and cool it better even if the faster air over the coil is not cooled quite as much. At some point air must go over the coil too fast to cool all the way down to coil temperature (or heat up to coil temperature in the winter). But that might not be the limiting factor.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Aug 14 09:06PM -0700 > > What fakes??   > Where have you been ?   ** Think you need to put a comma after "What" and read the post as:   " What do you mean, fakes from Digikey ?? "     ... Phil

jurb6006@gmail.com: Aug 14 10:14PM -0700 On Sunday, August 14, 2016 at 11:06:19 PM UTC-5, Phil Allison wrote:   > ** Think you need to put a comma after "What" and read the post as:   > " What do you mean, fakes from Digikey ?? "   > ... Phil   WTF are you trying to say here ? Rephrase it if you would.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Aug 14 10:31PM -0700 >"Hmmm, did I put my old SU-V4X in the loft, or chuck it in a skip? "     Does not matter, it will be the latter.   On speakers that were right for them, they sounded good. But on most there really was no difference.   The main thing you get by biasing a transistor amp harder is damping factor at really low power levels. I got a PL400/2, damping factor 1,000. You can hear the difference, but not much. And the amazing part is they run the outputs in class B, you get the sound from the drivers mostly below a watt or two. Probably going to sell that thing, got a ton of blown speakers in the garage. Well not really. Haven't taken them out there yet to go with the other ones.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Aug 14 10:56PM -0700 > > ** Think you need to put a comma after "What" and read the post as:   > > " What do you mean, fakes from Digikey ?? "   > WTF are you trying to say here ? Rephrase it if you would.   ** CD was asking if you bought fake MJ15024/25s from Digikey.   Cos your one line post seemed to say that.     .... Phil

ohger1s@gmail.com: Aug 15 05:14AM -0700 On Monday, August 15, 2016 at 1:56:49 AM UTC-4, Phil Allison wrote:   > ** CD was asking if you bought fake MJ15024/25s from Digikey.   > Cos your one line post seemed to say that.   > .... Phil   God, I hope not. I have not gotten a bad semi from DigiKey or B&D (http://www.bdent.com/)   B&D is the only place to get those Sony MCD smps controllers that don't literally explode on turn on and Sanyo STKs for PTV convergence outputs. Fortunately, those TVs are pretty much obsolete but I still do about 6 PTV convergence jobs a year.

bob <sound@inetnebr.com>: Aug 14 08:18PM -0500 http://www.ford-trucks.com/articles/the-ford-f-750-world-cruiser-is-beyond-a-cowboy-cadillac/   I guess Steve Austin would own one..   bob   --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

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