- Recommendations for Failed Samsung Power Supply? - 5 Updates
- Attempting Android setup perfection - I ask your suggestions for improvement - 2 Updates
- Solution Manual Electronic Principles (8th Ed., Albert Malvino, David Bates) - 1 Update
- For you audio guys: counterfeit MJ15024G and MJ15025G - 4 Updates
- OT How does my car's AC work? - 2 Updates
"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Aug 15 10:24AM -0700 On Monday, August 15, 2016 at 11:45:36 AM UTC-4, KenO wrote: > I would like to upgrade this failed 47uF 160 V cap so would appreciate any suggestions. > Thanks > Ken Look for caps rated to 100 C. This greatly enhances longevity. Raise the capacitance to the maximum that will fit in the space available, up to double OEM. Bring up the voltage to up to double OEM. Look for a decent brand - but if you follow the above, boutique caps are emphatically not necessary. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
c4urs11 <c4urs11@domain.hidden>: Aug 15 08:00PM > Raise the capacitance to the maximum that will fit in the space available Some caution though: raising capacitance also raises peak current through rectifiers. Rectifiers do have peak current limits. Cheers! |
"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Aug 15 01:30PM -0700 On Monday, August 15, 2016 at 4:00:40 PM UTC-4, c4urs11 wrote: > raises peak current through rectifiers. > Rectifiers do have peak current limits. > Cheers! Hence the "Up to double the OEM limits". Generally, and unless the OEM is _REALLY_ cheap, the rectifiers are not the limiting factor. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Aug 15 08:08PM -0700 c4urs11 wrote: > Some caution though: raising capacitance also > raises peak current through rectifiers. > Rectifiers do have peak current limits. ** That idea is a common myth about line frequency PSUs and a nonsense about SMPSs. Doubling the microfarads means the voltage drop is halved during the non conducting period - so when the diode conducts, it has to raise the voltage by half the previous amount. Doing this requires the same current to flow for the same time as before. The peak current value depends on the transformer's winding resistances and any series inductance. Increasing the capacitance does increase the start up surge current - but most diodes have large single cycle ratings. The 1N4004 has a 1amp average current rating with a * 30amp * single cycle rating. http://www.onsemi.com/pub_link/Collateral/1N4001-D.PDF .... Phil |
ohger1s@gmail.com: Aug 16 07:38AM -0700 If it cycles like the one in the video, it could be that cap. It could also be the main board as Samsungs are notorious for having main board issues (including cycling). If it starts and has back light shut down but the TV doesn't cycle, it's most likely a flakey LED in the display. My notes show I did several of these and none of them had a power supply problem. |
Aardvarks <aardvarks@a.b.c.com>: Aug 16 07:13AM On Thu, 11 Aug 2016 20:19:23 +0100, David Taylor wrote: > There are some paid programs for which there are no freeware equivalents > on my Android systems. Like what? |
Chuck <chuck@mydeja.net>: Aug 16 08:22AM -0500 On Sun, 14 Aug 2016 02:16:20 +0000 (UTC), Aardvarks >agree with you - but you just always say "bullshit" without backing up any >of your claims. >You never back up your claims. A few years ago an app. to access another computer using TS gateway wasn't available for free on Android. --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
iampritesh13@gmail.com: Aug 16 03:56AM -0700 i want Solution Manual Electronic Principles (8th Ed., Albert Malvino, David Bates) .my email id is iampritesh13@gmail.com |
jurb6006@gmail.com: Aug 15 12:04PM -0700 >"** CD was asking if you bought fake MJ15024/25s from Digikey. > Cos your one line post seemed to say that. >.... Phil" OK, I'll clarify. I buy shit like that from Digikey and have never had a problem. |
jurb6006@gmail.com: Aug 15 12:25PM -0700 >"God, I hope not. I have not gotten a bad semi from DigiKey or B&D >(http://www.bdent.com/) " Me too. I found B%D parts to be good. More expensive, but if your time is valuable it is worth it to only have to change it once. While I am good enough to change a convergence IC a bunch of times without damaging the board, sometimes it take time to get to it. Plus, some boards are fragile and the pads seem like they just want to come off. After the second time sometimes you are on thin ice no matter how good you are. I have seen some really awful soldering. Some of these people should not be techs. I learned because I don't want to repair lifted pads and broken traces on the board. One boss told me that I use more solder wick than anyone else and I retorted "Yeah, and I've seen their work". A few minutes to change the IC and then an hour to clean up the mess they made out of the copper on the board. And that is one of the reasons I made twice as much as them. That and being the goto guy. Shit, we had one guy who was in electronic engineering school who didn't know the difference between a diac and Zener diode. And none of them understood the concept of a convergence amp. It is sorta a transconductance amp, it converts voltage to current. It was justy about the only way they could do it. Know what impressed me ? Zeniths. We had one for a while, no convergence outputs, strictly a passive circuit with caps and coils. Converged just fine. Actually had a pretty good picture. In fact one thing notable about that one was the sound, the sound was excellent. Found out one time while cleaning it that the screen acted as a passive radiator for the bass. I don't remember the board set but those were the ones where the high value resistors went bad and the G2 went sky high and burned the CRT phosphors as they went into shutdown. We had to put two CRTs into it, which is why we got it cheap. |
Andy Burns <usenet@andyburns.uk>: Aug 15 10:23PM +0100 >> "Hmmm, did I put my old SU-V4X in the loft, or chuck it in a skip? " > it will be the latter. On speakers that were right for them, they > sounded good. I bought Mission 707 speakers at the same time as the amp >got a ton of blown speakers in the garage. The 707s died from rotten rubber gaskets, and got chucked before I found you could buy refurb kits for them, still have the stands and original cardboard boxes for them though! <later> Just ventured up into the loft and the amp (actually the SU-V2X) is there in its original box, ebay says good examples sell for £40-£60, so it can stay there. |
ohger1s@gmail.com: Aug 15 07:32PM -0700 > I have seen some really awful soldering. Some of these people should not be techs. It used to be ham fisted techs, now it's the owner. Twice this year I had to salvage two projection TVs that the customers had tried to repair using a kit bought off line. One was a Mitsubishi xx511 series and the other that Sony with the conv amps on the HV/sweep board. Both were completely botched, the Sony missing a smd resistor. I quoted a price to repair/retrace the boards with no guarantee that the convergence parts they purchased were any good, and made them pay up front before powering them up. Surprisingly, both worked after repairing the PC damage. |
jurb6006@gmail.com: Aug 15 11:57AM -0700 Cars are built with vents designed to always suck some air out the back to assure exhaust does not get in the cabin. Air is always drawn in from the front. Where the windshield wipers are is a gutter, and the fresh air intake is usually under there somewhere. Some higher end models actually have a filter there you have to replace or clean every once in a while. Incidentally, if you smoke in the car do not use recirculate. As a non-smoker for five years I can smell it. It does not bother me ad I don't get pissy about it but if you go to sell the car it hurts the value and in fact some people simply won't buy it. |
"Ron D." <Ron.Dozier@gmail.com>: Aug 15 03:46PM -0700 in one of my vehicles (circa 1982) that I put the AC in the car from a "box of parts", so I know that system intimately. There was a switch that was set when the temp was set to "recirculate". The outside air was "partially" controlled by the "AC module". 1/2 of the recirculate damper was controlled by the AC module. To prevent freezing of the evaporator, the module would open up 1/2 the damper to outside air. If that didn't work, it could shut off the compressor. Idle typically increases when the AC is turned on. Even with the fan off, you get "flow thru ventilation" in non-recirculate mode. So, the temperature was still modulated by how far the "water valve" was open. Not all cars have a water valve, but many have a way to turn the water off to the core under MAX cold.On Friday, August 12, 2016 at 2:51:36 PM UTC-4, Micky wrote: Latest car has climate control. |
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