- Recommendations for Failed Samsung Power Supply? - 2 Updates
- OT How does my car's AC work? - 3 Updates
- Help identifying connector - 1 Update
| KenO <kenitholson@yahoo.com>: Aug 16 01:02PM -0700 On Monday, August 15, 2016 at 11:45:36 AM UTC-4, KenO wrote: > I would like to upgrade this failed 47uF 160 V cap so would appreciate any suggestions. > Thanks > Ken Thanks everyone for your comments! ohg... "If it cycles like the one in the video, it could be that cap." Yes it does. Is there some way I can post a JPG of bad cap? pf... "Look for caps rated to 100 C. This greatly enhances longevity." The original bad SAMWHA was listed as 105 C. "Look for a decent brand" Was thinking of using a NICHICON. Any comments? Checked the cat http://www.nichicon.co.jp/english/products/alm_mini/index.html Any suggestions concerning Series? Was thinking of upgrading from 160 V to 200 V? Any comments? Am unsure if should keep original 47uF or ~ double it? Are there any references as to difference it will make in cap life? Am also wondering about normal vs low ESR cap? Rechecked SAMWHA WL Series http://www.samwha.com/electric/product/list_pdf2/WL.pdf and failed cap was listed as Operating temperature range of 40 ~ +105 C, Extremely low impedance at high frequency, High reliability withstanding 5000 hours load life at 105 C From checking seems SAMWHA has a poor reputation either that or Samsung did a poor job in designing this Power Supply! It is a BN44-00554B Did a search and lowest price is $14.99 from https://gopartserv.com/products/samsung-bn44-00554b-power-supply?variant=12917092228&gclid=Cj0KEQjw88q9BRDB5qLcwLXr7_sBEiQAZsGja-bzrMPb6O-kmBOv4T-jbdqXsZDzILP3gEcO2tEB4gkaAh2V8P8HAQ If you search "BN44-00554B problems" will find Samsung UN32EH4003FXZA - tries to start - problem found! http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=40665 so do not have much faith in this Samsung PS at any price! |
| ohger1s@gmail.com: Aug 17 04:27AM -0700 On Tuesday, August 16, 2016 at 4:02:38 PM UTC-4, KenO wrote: > From checking seems SAMWHA has a poor reputation either that or Samsung did a poor job in designing this Power Supply! > It is a BN44-00554B Did a search and lowest price is $14.99 from https://gopartserv.com/products/samsung-bn44-00554b-power-supply?variant=12917092228&gclid=Cj0KEQjw88q9BRDB5qLcwLXr7_sBEiQAZsGja-bzrMPb6O-kmBOv4T-jbdqXsZDzILP3gEcO2tEB4gkaAh2V8P8HAQ > If you search "BN44-00554B problems" will find Samsung UN32EH4003FXZA - tries to start - problem found! http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=40665 so do not have much faith in this Samsung PS at any price! Don't overthink this. This is simply a bridge bypass cap, not a PFC filter. For less than $4 you get two delivered: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-200v-47uf-105-C-Radial-Electrolytic-Capacitor-US-SELLER-/252149403315?hash=item3ab5468eb3:g:ob8AAOSwdzVXk-eD Unlikely you'll ever change this cap again. |
| Micky <NONONObobbyburns1111@gmail.com>: Aug 16 05:34PM -0400 On Sat, 13 Aug 2016 16:59:03 -0700 (PDT), thekmanrocks@gmail.com wrote: >avag...@gmail.com: >Coldness "increases" at higher fan speeds because the higher fan speed moves a higher volume of air per minute from plenum into the cabin. The air itself doesn't get any colder - that is dictated by the compressor and the user temperature setting. Exactly. I wasn't referring to the temp inside the car, but to the air coming out of the vents. I held my finger right on a vent while I changed the fan speed. The compressor and my temperature setting stayed the same. I think my temp setting was "COLD" meaning as far down as it goes. But the air didn't seem to get warmer as the fan speed increased. |
| Micky <NONONObobbyburns1111@gmail.com>: Aug 17 03:38AM -0400 On Mon, 15 Aug 2016 15:46:02 -0700 (PDT), "Ron D." >in one of my vehicles (circa 1982) that I put the AC in the car from a "box of parts", so I know that system intimately. >There was a switch that was set when the temp was set to "recirculate". >The outside air was "partially" controlled by the "AC module". 1/2 of the recirculate damper was controlled by the AC module. To prevent freezing of the evaporator, the module would open up 1/2 the damper to outside air. If that didn't work, it could shut off the compressor. But the compressor never got shut off, and the AC is fully charged and not subject to freezing, and most importantly I can run in any of those 3 speeds for a long time and nothing changes. >Idle typically increases when the AC is turned on. But the idle doesn't change speed by changing the AC fan speed. >Even with the fan off, you get "flow thru ventilation" in non-recirculate mode. So, the temperature was still modulated by how far the "water valve" was open. Not all cars have a water valve, but many have a way to turn the water off to the core under MAX cold. Toyota doesn't call it max, and the fan wasn't on the high speed, but the outside air vent was closed. On Friday, August 12, 2016 at 2:51:36 PM UTC-4, Micky wrote: |
| Micky <NONONObobbyburns1111@gmail.com>: Aug 17 03:39AM -0400 On Sun, 14 Aug 2016 16:14:26 -0700 (PDT), "Ron D." >One reason that would happen is if the AC is set to take in outside air. To get the coldest AC, you want to use recirculate. Also depending on humidity don;t expect a change of more that 15-20 degrees F of the intake and discharged air. I was using recirculate. >If outside air is used and say the temp is 90 outside, you only get say 75 deg degree air no matter what. Why would this affect what I said? The air would be 75 on low speed, but on higher speeds it would blow by the evaporator so fast it wouldn't cool as much. |
| mroberds@att.net: Aug 17 06:10AM Yeah, necroposting by a month. Followup-To: set. > http://imgur.com/a/6qeua Looks like a Tektronix 222PS "Power Scout". I replaced the battery on one once. I think I succeeded but I'm not 100% sure. Photos (including views of the mating connector) and more details here: http://birdbird.org/electronics/tek-222ps/tek-222ps-battery.html > How can I identify the type of shell and pin used in this connector? I decided the battery connector had 0.156" spacing. I *think* I inferred that because it was bigger than 0.1" and looked like other 0.156" connectors I have seen. I don't remember if I actually put a ruler on it or held the Tektronix connector up to a known 0.156" connector. The housing on the wires didn't have any kind of locking clip (to hold it to the pins on the board) or keying/polarizing arrangement. When I replaced the battery, I just re-used the existing connector, so I didn't have to buy a new one. Digging around online a little, a Molex "KK" housing, series 2139, part number 09-50-7031 might work; that's not exactly the same as the one that is there now, though. http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0009507031_CRIMP_HOUSINGS.xml Standard disclaimers apply: I don't get money or other consideration from any companies mentioned. Matt Roberds |
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