| Tekkie® <Tekkie@comcast.net>: Aug 22 04:07PM -0400 Danny D. posted for all of us... > When I buy the pilot assembly, should I buy an anode? > I have hard water (calcium carbonate rich). > How often do you replace your anodes? I don't have that type heater. You may want to see if you can get the anode out. Might be a problem. I think I would procure the anode locally as I think shipping may be expensive. -- Tekkie |
| Jerry Peters <jerry@example.invalid>: Aug 22 08:19PM > When I buy the pilot assembly, should I buy an anode? > I have hard water (calcium carbonate rich). > How often do you replace your anodes? *If* you can remove it; there's very little of the aluminum or magnesium rod still left, and you can see the supporting wires. You should be checking the anode every year or two, this also keeps it from corroding in place, so you *can* check it. |
| "tom" <tmiller11147@verizon.net>: Aug 22 04:41PM -0400 "Jerry Peters" <jerry@example.invalid> wrote in message news:npfmo0$6nm$1@dont-email.me... > magnesium rod still left, and you can see the supporting wires. > You should be checking the anode every year or two, this also keeps it > from corroding in place, so you *can* check it. Also, IIRC, it uses a large socket (1-1/8"?) and a long 1/2 drive breaker bar . They are usually very very tight. Just drain a little water out (gallon or so) and still you may need an extra hand to hold on to the tank. You will need some clearance above the tank to put the rod in. |
| Allodoxaphobia <knock_yourself_out@example.net>: Aug 23 01:12AM On Mon, 22 Aug 2016 16:40:51 -0000 (UTC), Danny D. wrote: > When I buy the pilot assembly, should I buy an anode? > How often do you replace your anodes? Me? heh... I replece my anode every time I replace the H/W heater. :-) Jonesy |
| "pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Aug 22 06:38PM -0700 On Monday, August 22, 2016 at 12:40:54 PM UTC-4, Danny D. wrote: > I have hard water (calcium carbonate rich). > How often do you replace your anodes? I don't, and will never have the need. The summer house has a 17 year old propane fired Bosch Aquastar tankless unit that has performed flawlessly. The main house has a WM Ultra gas-fired indirect heater that handles all our needs with a 96% efficiency rating. The typical tank-type unit is about 40% efficient and has about a 10-12 year lifespan. Either of our two present systems has an indefinite life-span and runs over 90% efficiency. The WM unit carries a 30-year unlimited warranty in residential use - we are eight years in. The Bosch warranty ran out 2 years ago. But, still making HW - and as much as we can use for as long as we can use it, or the propane runs out, whichever comes first. As to cost, the Bosch was $425 17 years ago, the WM unit (with circulator and controls) was just under $1,000. As it was part of a complete heating system replacement, the incremental cost was minimal. And we have never regretted the choice. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
| "Danny D." <dannydiamico@yahoo.com>: Aug 23 12:12PM On Mon, 22 Aug 2016 16:26:25 -0700 (PDT), trader_4 wrote: >> You will need some clearance above the tank to put the rod in. > They sell new ones that are in sections for people who have that problem. Thank you for bringing the vertical space up as a problem, as I might have that problem since the hot water heater is in a relatively small closet, and it's on a pedestal off the ground. I never thought of that problem until you mentioned it. |
| "Danny D." <dannydiamico@yahoo.com>: Aug 23 12:12PM On Mon, 22 Aug 2016 20:19:12 -0000 (UTC), Jerry Peters wrote: > magnesium rod still left, and you can see the supporting wires. > You should be checking the anode every year or two, this also keeps it > from corroding in place, so you *can* check it. This makes a lot of sense to remove the anode yearly so that you can remove it before it corrodes in place. Unfortunately for me, the AO Smith anode (PN 9009148005) comes with the hot-water nipple, so, they have it inline (somehow) with the hot water pipe. Seems silly to me that I have to basically disconnect the water pipes just to check the anode. |
| "Danny D." <dannydiamico@yahoo.com>: Aug 23 12:12PM On Mon, 22 Aug 2016 16:07:20 -0400, TekkieŽ wrote: > I don't have that type heater. You may want to see if you can get the anode > out. Might be a problem. I think I would procure the anode locally as I > think shipping may be expensive. You have a point on the shipping, as the anode is long I presume. Mine has the hot-water nipple on the end also. I checked three parts stores. None had it in stock while most had the pilot assembly in stock. So, people replace the AO Smith pilot assembly more so than they do the anode (or they use a different anode part number). - pilot assembly 9003455005 $88 - anode with nipple 9009148005 $38 |
| "pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Aug 23 07:50AM -0700 On Tuesday, August 23, 2016 at 8:12:43 AM UTC-4, Danny D. wrote: > anode (or they use a different anode part number). > - pilot assembly 9003455005 $88 > - anode with nipple 9009148005 $38 You do realize that you have, at best, a 50% chance of replacing the Anode without damaging the tank? And with this in mind, and if this is your intention proceed as follows: a) Identify an immediate source for the Anode. DO NOT buy it, simply identify the source. b) Only then remove the existing Anode. If you get it out without additional damage to the tank, and if the threads are clean, only then purchase and install the new Anode. Imagine how you would feel if you purchase the new unit prior to removal of the old - and then found the tank to be unusable... And, I really hope that your family has not been without hot water since the 19th? Today being the 23rd? That would just be nuts! Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
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