- Auto woofer - 1 Update
- Electronics Engineer just starting in the world of industrial PCBA fixing - 1 Update
- OT How does my car's AC work? - 5 Updates
- Recommendations for Failed Samsung Power Supply? - 2 Updates
- Resistance of thermal switch in thermocouple - does it matter - hot water heater - generic replacement - 4 Updates
Micky <NONONObobbyburns1111@gmail.com>: Aug 24 12:29PM -0400 I took the back of my back seat out of my car and was surprised to see that I have a woofer! It has 4 wires running down the cone, two on each side. Is that because it has 2 voice coils, one for the left channel and one for the right? So it can combine the signals audibly but not electrically, because if they mixed here, they would get mixed on all the other speakers too? But couldn't they do that in the woofer amplifier and use a standar speaker with only one voice coil? Also one pair of wires, unplugged from the car, has 32 ohms between them, and the other pair has 2.5. That's a bad sign, isn't it? I wish I'd noticed this before I spent $25 for a new foam surround, but the I bought that before taking the speaker out, and since the speaker was facing me, I couldn't see this. How good do you think it will sound with only one channel? Will I keep steering the car towards the side of the road? |
Jorge Ricardo Rodriguez <jrrz.iescd@gmail.com>: Aug 24 08:48AM -0700 Hi all, I am just starting into this world of fixing industrial PCBAs. As you may know, in this kind of repairing, normally there are no schematics available, most of the times you do not have a PCBA in good conditions to use as reference of what is wrong and what is fine. I just knew about the VI technique for these cases which is useful, but I would like to know more about it and about more other techniques to use in these cases to debug industrial PCBAs. Do someone of you have blogs/books/nice online courses with useful information? I would highly appreciate your help and advises on this topic. Thanks! Regards |
avagadro7@gmail.com: Aug 23 03:54PM -0700 > > recirculate is for a load of rotting fish. > ___ > Fresh air fanatics, are we? ;) I drive a van..... defrost is both cool defrost and warm hot defrost .... in South Fla, Texas et al So Cal .....AC during a morning commute generates the Geese Pond Effect ...GPE .....requiring cool defrost. recirculate gives coolest temps, mix is for rotting fish. sorry. the 2008 Ford Econoline reads: MAX AC/NORM AC/VENT/OFF/FLR/MIX/then an ideogram for DEFROST. could be VENT is for rotting fish ? I could ask the dealer but then parts $$$ will go up..... |
"Ron D." <Ron.Dozier@gmail.com>: Aug 24 02:13AM -0700 On Saturday, August 20, 2016 at 7:21:00 AM UTC-4, Micky wrote: > >An 82 Celica allowed independent AC compressor on and off and a 2000 Chevy Impala did the same thing. > The 2000 Toyota turns the AC on when the defroster is turned on, but > it can be turned off by pressing the AC button. Some versions of Windows, you go to the "Start" menu. Some things rub off. <G>. > The 84, 88, and 95 Lebarons had a separate switch for AC, a mechanical > switch where Off meant Off. > I don't think any of these cars had a MAX setting by that name. The Celica didn't have a setting labeled MAX, but the control module needed to know. My guess would be that if the evaporator got too cold and it was in recirculate, open 1/2 of the re-circulate door. If it was not in recirculate, then turn off the compressor if the evaporator got too cold. The temp lever mechanically controlled a water valve. I tried to look up the parts, but seeing how the door worked wasn't really possible. The real reason I knew is because I installed all of the pieces. When a 1968 Chrysler "Aftermarket" AC got too cold, you would get water on your feet on turns. They made units that would bolt under the dash in that ERA. This particular mounting bracket used the thermostat housing to mount the compressor. |
"Ron D." <Ron.Dozier@gmail.com>: Aug 24 02:30AM -0700 > A lot of owners manuals suggest a temperature setting > between "10 and 2 o'clock" when using Defrost, vs > extreme/full cold or hot, respectively, for AC or Heater. DEFROST - when there is ice or snow on the windshield DEFOG - When there is water on the inside of the window. The Dew point determines when this occurs. Lowering the humidity of the air increases the heat capacity of the conditioned air and raises the dew point. It's hard to get people to use the AC and Heat at the same time especially when it's cold out and you want to get warm. From a Thermodynamic view, it doesn't work. See, I use thermodynamics in everyday life. Hot water freezes faster than cold water does. Ice expands when cooled. Increasing surface area increases heat loss. A hat will increase body temperature significantly, A hat prevents heat loss from your head. layering clothes is important. I somewhat regulate sleeping temperature by wearing one, two or no socks to bed. A bare foot in a slipper with an air gap will be warmer than a slipper, and a tight fitting sock. Wet clothes are bad when trying to stay warm. |
thekmanrocks@gmail.com: Aug 24 04:25AM -0700 Ron D. wrote: " DEFROST - when there is ice or snow on the windshield DEFOG - When there is water on the inside of the window. The Dew point determines when this occurs. Lowering the humidity of the air increases the heat capacity of the conditioned air and raises the dew point. " Thanks for that detailed explanation. Most car climate controls abbreviate it to "DEF", and I always assumed it was short for defrost. "It's hard to get people to use the AC and Heat at the same time especially when it's cold out and you want to get warm. From a Thermodynamic view, it doesn't work." Again, what I wrote were the suggested temperature knob settings for defrost/defog/de-what-ever. For Heat and AC, the temperature knob positions should be obvious - although my particular owners manual suggests setting temperature knob to approximately the 10 o'clock position when using the Auto climate feature for cooling in summer, and 2 o'clock for heating in winter. I followed the instructions for Auto in summer and so far, has been transparent and satisfactory. "See, I use thermodynamics in everyday life. Hot water freezes faster than cold water does. Ice expands when cooled. Increasing surface area increases heat loss. A hat will increase body temperature significantly, A hat prevents heat loss from your head. layering clothes is important. I somewhat regulate sleeping temperature by wearing one, two or no socks to bed. A bare foot in a slipper with an air gap will be warmer than a slipper, and a tight fitting sock. Wet clothes are bad when trying to stay warm. " Nice tips. So it's the air between skin and clothing, and between layers, that keeps one warm. |
jurb6006@gmail.com: Aug 24 05:25AM -0700 >"Ice expands when cooled." No, ice only expands when it becomes ice. |
KenO <kenitholson@yahoo.com>: Aug 23 12:23PM -0700 ohg, "There's no "design" issue involved with your particular failure. It's a simple full wave bridge and bypass filter." Thank you for the clarification. Since this is an inexpensive TV do not want to over do things so the Panasonic is not cost effective. You have way more experience than I do so when you say "the cap in your TV was likely just a bad run of caps at least..." I believe you! Am thinking about using a Nichicon replacement and have not found any problems with this brand. Any experience with them? and last is it even cost effective to upgrade any aspect of original 47uF 160V 105C cap? Thanks again for your comments! |
ohger1s@gmail.com: Aug 24 05:03AM -0700 On Tuesday, August 23, 2016 at 3:23:20 PM UTC-4, KenO wrote: > You have way more experience than I do so when you say "the cap in your TV was likely just a bad run of caps at least..." I believe you! > Am thinking about using a Nichicon replacement and have not found any problems with this brand. > Any experience with them? and last is it even cost effective to upgrade any aspect of original 47uF 160V 105C cap? Cost effective? Ken, the cost to ship a capacitor of this type will far exceed it's cost.. If you're buying a few hundred thousand of them, then pennies matter. The cheapest Nichicon 47/160 radial I could find at Digikey that was in stock and could be purchased one at a time is 0.61c each. The cheapest Panasonic is 0.71c. A 68/200v 105 Panasonic with 10K hour life is $1.14 http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/panasonic-electronic-components/EEU-ED2D680/P13526-ND/1086751 In any case, you're going to have to pay shipping. Does the cost of the cap actually matter? |
Jerry Peters <jerry@example.invalid>: Aug 23 08:08PM > bar . They are usually very very tight. Just drain a little water out > (gallon or so) and still you may need an extra hand to hold on to the tank. > You will need some clearance above the tank to put the rod in. I removed mine when the tank was about 5 years old. It took a large pipe wrench (the hex top of the rod was above the tank) and a 3 foot or so section of galvanized pipe on the wrench handle and lots of effort to remove it. |
Jerry Peters <jerry@example.invalid>: Aug 23 08:12PM > pipe. > Seems silly to me that I have to basically disconnect the water pipes just > to check the anode. Are you sure it's the hot water side? Usually if it's not a separate rod, it's part of the cold water inlet tube which introduces the cold water at the bottom of the tank. |
"Danny D." <dannydiamico@yahoo.com>: Aug 23 11:40PM On Tue, 23 Aug 2016 20:12:50 -0000 (UTC), Jerry Peters wrote: > Are you sure it's the hot water side? Usually if it's not a separate > rod, it's part of the cold water inlet tube which introduces the cold > water at the bottom of the tank. I'm not sure of anything but that's what the AO Smith technical support told me on the phone. Taking the suggestion from others, I measured the headroom to only be about 10 inches above the water heater - so I don't really think I can get the old anode out without removing the entire water heater, which I don't really want to do. |
"Danny D." <dannydiamico@yahoo.com>: Aug 23 11:40PM On Tue, 23 Aug 2016 20:08:45 -0000 (UTC), Jerry Peters wrote: > pipe wrench (the hex top of the rod was above the tank) and a 3 foot > or so section of galvanized pipe on the wrench handle and lots of > effort to remove it. I had a spare hot water tank to practice on and it was 27mm and it took a very long pipe (about 8 feet) to twist it off. So, those things are in there rather well if they're not removed every once in a while! |
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