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avagadro7@gmail.com: Aug 25 09:24AM -0700 for 18 Ga wire out of dashboard receiver.   want to separate connectors n pull receiver out during sensitive parking.   several dc and 4 stereo connectors if possible with no distortion/loss .   broadcast quality .....

dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt): Aug 24 12:41PM -0700 In article <6dirrb98cu6lo5gvi6gn6tkgma166o5b12@4ax.com>, >right? So it can combine the signals audibly but not electrically, >because if they mixed here, they would get mixed on all the other >speakers too?   That could be. Dual-voice-coil woofers are fairly common.   >But couldn't they do that in the woofer amplifier and use a standar >speaker with only one voice coil?   An advantage to using them, is that you can use a 2-channel audio amplifier (left and right), run each channel through a crossover, and then feed each channel's "woofer" signal to a separate voice coil on the woofer.   You can certainly do the trick you're thinking of, but it would require an amplifier with at least three channels (left, right, and woofer) and would require that the woofer-to-mid/tweeter crossover be performed prior to amplification. There are certainly audio setups which work this way, but they're somewhat more of a "custom" job.   >Also one pair of wires, unplugged from the car, has 32 ohms between >them, and the other pair has 2.5. That's a bad sign, isn't it?   Possibly.   Another possibility is that what you have is a specialized woofer, meant for use wiht an active-feedback "servo" amplifier. One wire pair (and coil) would be the actual "driving" voice coil... probably the one with 2.5 ohms DC resistance (a 4- or 8-ohm nominal impedance at audio frequencies). The other coil would be a "sense" coil, whose output would be proportional to cone velocity.   A servo amplifier would use feedback from the sense coil to control the output to the voice coil. This approach can allow the amplifier to provide deeper bass with a flatter frequency response, without requiring a critically-tuned enclosure for the woofer.   You'd probably need to find a model number on the woofer, and look up the data sheet, to figure out whether you have an actual problem (open or shorted voice coil) or a servo-amplified single-channel subwoofer.   Inspecting the wiring at your amplifier or head-end unit would also be instructive. Check to see if it has two outputs for the woofer, or a single woofer output and a "sense" or "feedback" or "servo" input for the other pair of wires.   >speaker was facing me, I couldn't see this.   >How good do you think it will sound with only one channel? Will I >keep steering the car towards the side of the road?   No, but if you use it to listen to the radio, you might end up being pulled either towards right-wing talk radio or left-wing NPR/APR stations :-)

Micky <NONONObobbyburns1111@gmail.com>: Aug 24 08:02PM -0400 On Wed, 24 Aug 2016 12:41:11 -0700, dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt) wrote:   >the output to the voice coil. This approach can allow the amplifier >to provide deeper bass with a flatter frequency response, without >requiring a critically-tuned enclosure for the woofer.   This is all very interesting. I understood most of it but will read it one or two more times.   >You'd probably need to find a model number on the woofer, and look up >the data sheet, to figure out whether you have an actual problem (open >or shorted voice coil) or a servo-amplified single-channel subwoofer.   Actually I have the model number because the Simply Speakers kit to repair in includes the model number, for my make, model, and year car, and tomorrow I'll go hunting for into.   >instructive. Check to see if it has two outputs for the woofer, or a >single woofer output and a "sense" or "feedback" or "servo" input for >the other pair of wires.   I'm not sure how to get the amp out of the car or where I could look at it. It's behind the back seat, and attached somehow.   But I did look more closely at the speaker and alas, the wire to the 2.5 inch coil has been cut. At first I thought it just broke off, but the end shows no wire, both ends show some of the red insulation, and the wire is now 1 or 2 mm. too short to reach the other piece. I could pull some through the zip tie, but plainly the last guy thought this voice coil was a problem. And after he cut the wire, then he unplugged or never plugged in the speaker.   I had hoped the speaker was just never plugged in at the assembly plant. I had a 1965 car which had big fresh air vents at the driver's and passenger's outer ankle, but no fresh air. When I had time to take off the kick panel, I saw that the cable was never connected to the doors. Also, my brother couldn't pull the car away from a stop without lurching forward. I thought he didnt' know how to drive. After he gave me the car, it took a couple months before I found that the wire to the vacuum advance was missing. The T- connection was hidden behind something else, and only because I had climbed up on something to get to the middle of the engine compartment did I notice this. Adding a hose made everything good. But no such luck with this speaker.   I will repair it tomorrow or Friday and install it anyhow. I have wireless speakers working off my PC and two are the left channel and two are the right, and they are in 4 different rooms. More to the point, I didn't notice that one of my two desk speakers was not working. About 1 song in 30 or 40, I couldn't hear the singer. Maybe that was what made me put my ear next to the other speaker and learn that it was dead!   So apparently my standards are low, and I might like a one channel woofer.     >No, but if you use it to listen to the radio, you might end up being >pulled either towards right-wing talk radio or left-wing NPR/APR >stations :-)   That does sound dangerous.

avagadro7@gmail.com: Aug 25 09:21AM -0700 goo.gl/r8SSXT

JW <none@dev.null>: Aug 24 01:07PM -0400 As the Subject says: I have a Linksys WRT54GS v.2 wireless router which occasionally drops to 1.0 Mbps and stays there. Signal strength still shows excellent. Can't even ping the router via a wireless connection when it happens. Great fun when I'm throwing a bid in at the last moment on eBay. :(   I have to unplug the thing for it to recover.   Happens once a day or so, but sometimes not for several days or more. Wired connections work fine.   Firmware version: v4.71.4   There seems to be a number of complaints out there on this, but no solutions. http://www.linksysinfo.org/index.php?threads/wrt54gs-wireless-connection-speed-dropping.6854/ http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r13974684-Wireless-WRT54GS-Speed-54Mbps-down-to-1-0-Mbps https://community.linksys.com/t5/Wireless-Routers/Speed-drops-to-1-0-mbps/td-p/15913   Checking the update page, there's no firmware updates. Funny, there used to be... Maybe they pulled the plug on this model? http://www.linksys.com/us/support-article?articleNum=148629   Thanks.

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Aug 24 01:05PM -0700 On Wednesday, August 24, 2016 at 10:09:15 AM UTC-7, JW wrote: > occasionally drops to 1.0 Mbps and stays there. Signal strength still > shows excellent. Can't even ping the router via a wireless connection when > it happens.   The channels available for WiFi are all unlicensed; if there's a strong second WiFi user (or other device in the 2.4 GHz band) its broadcast could swamp yours, except for pauses between transfers.   Signal strength might be excellent, but the road is crowded.

jack4747@gmail.com: Aug 25 06:07AM -0700 Il giorno mercoledì 24 agosto 2016 19:09:15 UTC+2, JW ha scritto:   > Checking the update page, there's no firmware updates. Funny, there used > to be... Maybe they pulled the plug on this model? > http://www.linksys.com/us/support-article?articleNum=148629   there are firmware update, just not from Linksys:   http://www.dd-wrt.com/site/index   Bye Jack

JW <none@dev.null>: Aug 25 11:11AM -0400 On Thu, 25 Aug 2016 06:07:24 -0700 (PDT) jack4747@gmail.com wrote in >> http://www.linksys.com/us/support-article?articleNum=148629   >there are firmware update, just not from Linksys:   >http://www.dd-wrt.com/site/index   Thanks. Looks like I have already have the last version ever released by Linksys. http://dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Linksys_WRT54GS_v2.0

JW <none@dev.null>: Aug 25 11:12AM -0400 On Wed, 24 Aug 2016 13:05:43 -0700 (PDT) whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com> wrote >WiFi user (or other device in the 2.4 GHz band) its broadcast could swamp >yours, except for pauses between transfers.   >Signal strength might be excellent, but the road is crowded.   Thanks, I don't think it's that given the symptoms (requires power cycle)

Micky <NONONObobbyburns1111@gmail.com>: Aug 24 07:38PM -0400 On Fri, 19 Aug 2016 19:49:33 +0100, MJC <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com> wrote:   >> perhaps this is android speak   >Pretty certain mobo=motherboard, but I think "i7" is too enigmatic, as >well.   I think that is intergallactica station 7, which iirc is Andromenica, or maybe Ardmore.

Micky <NONONObobbyburns1111@gmail.com>: Aug 24 07:44PM -0400 On Fri, 19 Aug 2016 13:02:08 -0700 (PDT), "jfeng@my-deja.com"   >You can get pc-board mount SATA data connectors on eBay. This seller has 2 for $3.79+$0.80(shipping) >http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Pcs-New-Sata-7-Pin-DIP-Straight-Female-Connector-For-Hard-Drive-HDD-/181864444077?hash=item2a57f730ad:g:gfkAAOSwQ15XOX7X   How is it that they can ship from ShenZhen, Guangdong, China for 80 cents? I suppose they put everything in a big box and pro-rate the shipping, but when I get things in the mail, it doesn't seem like that was done.   >http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Pcs-New-Sata-7-15-Pin-Straight-DIP-Female-Connector-For-Hard-Drive-HDD-/171977931322?hash=item280aaefa3a:g:BIkAAOSwxehXOX89   >Same prices for connectors of the other gender.   >Disclaimer: I know nothing about this eBay vendor, but I have purchased from other vendors on eBay.   Me too. Various things. I've always had good results except I bought a camera, new but without a box or instructions or anything, and it didn't have a battery which I think it should have either had or denoted that it didn't have. That cost me, after shopping, $15. Still the total was cheaper than elsewhere, but not as much. The camera works fine.

Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net>: Aug 25 10:26AM +1000 On 25/08/16 09:44, Micky wrote: > How is it that they can ship from ShenZhen, Guangdong, China for 80 > cents? I suppose they put everything in a big box and pro-rate the > shipping   China Post (aka the Chinese government) provides free shipping for small parcels. So "big box" here means "shipping container" and "pro-rate" is at zero cost... except to the postal services in the destination countries.

"jfeng@my-deja.com" <jfeng@my-deja.com>: Aug 24 05:38PM -0700 On Wednesday, August 24, 2016 at 4:44:24 PM UTC-7, Micky wrote: > How is it that they can ship from ShenZhen, Guangdong, China for 80 cents? I don't know, but it works. Last year, I bought a USB header from a Hong Kong vendor for US$1.77 and it arrived in a reasonable length of time.   I assume that the manufacturing cost of the connectors is less than 1 yuan, and the price to the middleman is 2-3 yuan. That would leave some room for shipping and a profit.

"Gareth Magennis" <soundserviceleeds@outlook.com>: Aug 25 02:00AM +0100 "bitrex" wrote in message news:5pHtz.52889$Z%.47195@fx35.iad...     I had some free time the other day and figured out the issue with my basket case i7 (bent power supply connection pin on the motherboard.) It's powering up now.   Unfortunately it looks like the ribbon cable connector has been damaged for the SATA drive on the mobo as well, so the clamp dosent "catch" with the cable when it's inserted and the clamp pressed down. I considered taping it in but on this type of connector, where it isn't a friction fit, I don't think it will apply enough pressure to keep it secure.   Any suggestions? Dab of superglue or hot glue gun, maybe?               I've been on this planet a few years now, and have yet to find a situation where Superglue is a good idea. It pretty much just does not work, except for sticking your fingers together.   Hot melt glue sometimes works, but does not adhere well to many surfaces.     Silicone glue/sealant pretty much sticks to everything, is flexible and shockproof, and can be peeled off without damaging anything if you need to have another go. Win, win, win, in my book, I rarely use anything else now.           Gareth.

Jerry Peters <jerry@example.invalid>: Aug 24 08:11PM > 10 inches above the water heater - so I don't really think I can get the > old anode out without removing the entire water heater, which I don't > really want to do.   Doesn't seem like it, especially if it's part of the water inlet tube. For low clearance separate anode rod applications there's a special replacement rod that has periodic narrow sections, so you can bend it to get it to fit.

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