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Aardvarks <aardvarks@a.b.c.com>: Aug 05 04:51PM -0300 On Thu, 4 Aug 2016 20:13:16 -0400, Aardvarks wrote:   > Do you think this Firefox battery-status fingerprinting also works for > laptops?   Some factual updates...   The battery-status API privacy exploit works on multiple browsers and on multiple operating systems, including all the well known operating systems for both mobile devices and computers.   Setting the following "about:config" option in Firefox should prevent the exploit that Jeff kindly informed us about:   Change from: dom.battery.enabled;true Change to: dom.battery.enabled;false   I'm not sure where the user.js file is located on iOS or in Android, but on your computer desktops and laptops, it will be located in "about:profiles".

Jolly Roger <jollyroger@pobox.com>: Aug 06 12:25AM > The battery-status API privacy exploit works on multiple browsers and on > multiple operating systems, including all the well known operating systems > for both mobile devices and computers.   Does the exploit work in Safari?   -- E-mail sent to this address may be devoured by my ravenous SPAM filter. I often ignore posts from Google. Use a real news client instead.   JR

Aardvarks <aardvarks@a.b.c.com>: Aug 05 10:05PM -0300 On 6 Aug 2016 00:25:17 GMT, Jolly Roger wrote:   > Does the exploit work in Safari?   In a quick read of these references... https://www.theguardian.com/technology/2015/aug/03/privacy-smartphones-battery-life http://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/gadgets-and-tech/news/phone-batteries-can-be-used-to-spy-on-their-owners-could-track-people-around-the-internet-10435578.html https://it.slashdot.org/story/15/08/03/1728255/privacy-alert-your-laptop-or-phone-battery-could-track-you-online http://www.wired.co.uk/article/privacy-hole-in-firefox http://www.ibtimes.co.uk/smartphone-laptop-batteries-compromise-web-browser-privacy-suggest-security-experts-1513979 http://mashable.com/2015/08/04/battery-privacy-html5/ http://www.telegraph.co.uk/technology/internet-security/11782851/Can-your-battery-life-give-away-your-identity.html http://www.belfasttelegraph.co.uk/technology/mobile-phone-batteries-can-be-used-to-spy-on-their-owners-could-track-people-around-the-internet-31423953.html http://www.theinquirer.net/inquirer/news/2420547/phone-batteries-can-track-you-around-the-internet http://blogs.wsj.com/digits/2015/08/04/7-ways-youre-being-tracked-online-and-how-to-stop-it/ http://eprint.iacr.org/2015/616.pdf http://betanews.com/2015/08/03/privacy-alert-your-laptop-or-phone-battery-could-track-you-online/ http://www.dailymail.co.uk/sciencetech/article-3185191/Are-tracked-using-smartphone-s-BATTERY-LIFE-Information-harvested-make-websites-energy-efficient-identify-web-users.html http://www.repubblica.it/tecnologia/sicurezza/2015/08/05/news/privacy_batteria_telefono-120471082/ http://www.liberation.fr/direct/element/quand-le-niveau-de-batterie-de-votre-telephone-devient-un-mouchard_14537/ http://tecnologia.elpais.com/tecnologia/2015/08/04/actualidad/1438686007_043163.html http://www.nzz.ch/nicht-nur-der-akku-verraet-nutzer-ld.1278 http://www.police.be/fed/fr/actualites/298-surfons-tranquille-api-battery-status-un-espion-insoupconne etc. (the last few are not in English though)   It seems it's "a little-known feature of the HTML5 specification" which Firefox, Opera and Chrome support and it was "introduced by the World Wide Web Consortium (W3C, the organisation that oversees the development of the web's standards) in 2012".   Here's a quote from the first article:   https://www.theguardian.com/technology/2015/aug/03/privacy-smartphones-battery-life "The researchers point out that the information a website receives is surprisingly specific, containing the estimated time in seconds that the battery will take to fully discharge, as well the remaining battery capacity expressed as a percentage. "   "Worse still, on some platforms, the researchers found that it is possible to determine the maximum battery capacity of the device with enough queries, creating a semi-permanent metric to compare devices".

Jolly Roger <jollyroger@pobox.com>: Aug 06 02:46AM > On 6 Aug 2016 00:25:17 GMT, Jolly Roger wrote:   >> Does the exploit work in Safari?   > In a quick read of these references...   [seemingly endless list of URLs followed by zero substance omitted]   Is that a "yes" or a "no"? Because if Safari's WebKit is unaffected, that means most of the entire iOS platform is unaffected - which leads one to wonder: why are you posting this to misc.phone.mobile.iphone?... #obvioustroll #lame   -- E-mail sent to this address may be devoured by my ravenous SPAM filter. I often ignore posts from Google. Use a real news client instead.   JR

Aardvarks <aardvarks@a.b.c.com>: Aug 06 12:40AM -0300 On 6 Aug 2016 02:46:43 GMT, Jolly Roger wrote:     > Is that a "yes" or a "no"? Because if Safari's WebKit is unaffected, that > means most of the entire iOS platform is unaffected - which leads one to > wonder: why are you posting this to misc.phone.mobile.iphone?...   What? Why do you troll so much?   Is this a safari-only newsgroup?   Or, are you really so stuck in the stone age that you actually think that the primitive and restrictive Safari is the *only* browser on iOS?   Or, are you so limited in your choices of browsers, that you can't imagine anyone using a modern browser that supports the latest HTML5 specification (even though it is a few years old by now).   Sheesh.   You say "I" troll, but Jeff kindly brought this topic up, and he wasn't trolling when he brought it up. I was simply responding to Jeff ... so, as always, *you* are the troll accusing me of bringing this topic up when all I did was flesh it out (every single time - the troll is *always* you!).   You add *zero* value. And you accuse people who do add value of things that only you do!   It's funny, but you don't even *remember* how this was brought up - that's how little you count to the discussion!   Anyway, despite your childish lack of usable memory and your constantly annoying trolling behavior, my response to your specific Safari question is that I don't know anything about the primitive Safari app since I wouldn't be caught dead using such a restrictive browser.   Therefore, I don't know whether Safari supports the latest battery api in the HTML5 specification or not - so it behooves you to figure out whether Safari has been updated to support HTML5 components such as the battery API.   Apple is so slow to update their apps that I'd guess being five years behind everyone else is pretty normal for them - so you might actually be safe with the primitive Safari app after all.   I mean, the most important thing in the world to you is for Apple to keep you safe, isn't it? So, this time, Apple may have saved you from the modern HTML5 specification. Sometimes, doing nothing to improve your apps works out for the best.   In fact, knowing how primitive and restrictive Safari is, I'd take a guess that Safari probably does not yet support this relatively recent (2012) HTML5 component, since Safari is still stuck in the stone age, so, you're probably safe this time due to the primitive nature of Apple products (which would be a good thing in this case so I congratulate you on your choice of browsers).   If my guess is right that Safari is still stuck in the stone age, then the topic that Jeff brought up about the HTML5 specification Battery API is still relevant to the more modern browsers that are available on iOS.   But, you're probably safe if you stick with Safari (which was probably never updated to the latest HTML5 specification, knowing Apple).

Jolly Roger <jollyroger@pobox.com>: Aug 06 02:42PM >> means most of the entire iOS platform is unaffected - which leads one to >> wonder: why are you posting this to misc.phone.mobile.iphone?...   > Is this a safari-only newsgroup?   [more useless troll blather omitted]   So most of iOS is unaffected. Thanks for playing! : )   Troll on.   -- E-mail sent to this address may be devoured by my ravenous SPAM filter. I often ignore posts from Google. Use a real news client instead.   JR

nospam <nospam@nospam.invalid>: Aug 06 10:54AM -0400 In article <e0mbbeFevmtU1@mid.individual.net>, Jolly Roger   > [more useless troll blather omitted]   > So most of iOS is unaffected. Thanks for playing! : )   > Troll on.   it's amazing how much useless nonsensical spew he can generate without ever finding the very 'facts' he claims to seek.   <http://caniuse.com/#feat=battery-status>

Jolly Roger <jollyroger@pobox.com>: Aug 06 03:14PM > it's amazing how much useless nonsensical spew he can generate without > ever finding the very 'facts' he claims to seek.   ><http://caniuse.com/#feat=battery-status>   It's what he does best. And as usual, he falls flat on his face when confronted with reality. He's a piss poor old troll.   -- E-mail sent to this address may be devoured by my ravenous SPAM filter. I often ignore posts from Google. Use a real news client instead.   JR

"Danny D." <dannydiamico@yahoo.com>: Aug 05 10:54PM -0300 On Wed, 13 Jul 2016 07:52:43 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote:   > Christopher A. Young > learn more about Jesus > . www.lds.org   To update this thread, I replaced the Kenmore with a Whirlpool long ago. http://i.cubeupload.com/3yXHsM.jpg   When I opened the back of the Whirlpool, I was surprised to find a Kenmore build sheet inside. Everything is almost exactly the same in the Whirlpool as it was in the Kenmore, even down to the capacitor and relay.   Even the shelves and wire racks were the same.   So Whirlpool *is* Kenmore and Kenmore is Whirlpool.   The current in the Whirlpool was lower than the Kenmore though, at about 1.2 amps when the compressor was running (it was about 3 amps, as I recall, with the older fridge). http://i.cubeupload.com/Wgo5LG.jpg   The new Whirlpool uses what appears to be a similar Embraco compressor which uses R134a but with a much lower LRA of 11.7 amps (as opposed to the 17 point something locked rotor amperage of the older Kenmore fridge). http://i.cubeupload.com/vn8fws.jpg   I've already had a service call, because the Whirlpool fridge is *supposed* to keep to between 37 and 40 degrees F with the freezer between 10 and 0 degrees F, but the thing is about 5 to 10 degrees F too warm when both settings are in the minimum position. http://i.cubeupload.com/3UkX69.jpg   Funny thing, when you put the *freezer* at the minimum setting, the *fridge* gets more air through the vent at top left (in this side-by-side refrigerator/freezer combination). That's because lowering the temperature in the freezer simply makes the vent open more of the fan air to the refrigerator. http://i.cubeupload.com/3yXHsM.jpg   It's confusing, and it's counterintuitive that when you set the freezer to colder, the refrigerator gets *less* air, hence it's warmer. I don't know what changes when you set the refrigerator colder though.   This is all I think I know: 1. The compressor only runs at one speed. 2. Therefore the compressor is either on, or it's off. 3. There is a condenser fan on the bottom of the refrigerator. 4. That condenser fan also only has one speed. 5. There is a fan in the back of the freezer about mid way up. 6. That fan also has only one speed. 7. There is no fan in the refrigerator. 8. The refrigerator has no coils and has no fans. 9. The evaporator coils are only in the back of the freezer. 10. So the freezer is what cools the refrigerator. 11. That's why lowering the freezer temperature raises the refrig temperature (according to the service guy anyway). 12. The freezer dial apparently only controls the louvers of the air that is blow by the freezer fan from the freezer to the refrigerator. 13. I have no idea what the refrigerator dial does.

"Danny D." <dannydiamico@yahoo.com>: Aug 05 10:54PM -0300 On Sat, 9 Jul 2016 12:44:01 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote:   > Christopher A. Young > learn more about Jesus > . www.lds.org   To update this thread, I replaced the Kenmore with a Whirlpool long ago. http://i.cubeupload.com/3yXHsM.jpg   When I opened the back of the Whirlpool, I was surprised to find a Kenmore build sheet inside. Everything is almost exactly the same in the Whirlpool as it was in the Kenmore, even down to the capacitor and relay.   Even the shelves and wire racks were the same.   So Whirlpool *is* Kenmore and Kenmore is Whirlpool.   The current in the Whirlpool was lower than the Kenmore though, at about 1.2 amps when the compressor was running (it was about 3 amps, as I recall, with the older fridge). http://i.cubeupload.com/Wgo5LG.jpg   The new Whirlpool uses what appears to be a similar Embraco compressor which uses R134a but with a much lower LRA of 11.7 amps (as opposed to the 17 point something locked rotor amperage of the older Kenmore fridge). http://i.cubeupload.com/vn8fws.jpg   I've already had a service call, because the Whirlpool fridge is *supposed* to keep to between 37 and 40 degrees F with the freezer between 10 and 0 degrees F, but the thing is about 5 to 10 degrees F too warm when both settings are in the minimum position. http://i.cubeupload.com/3UkX69.jpg   Funny thing, when you put the *freezer* at the minimum setting, the *fridge* gets more air through the vent at top left (in this side-by-side refrigerator/freezer combination). That's because lowering the temperature in the freezer simply makes the vent open more of the fan air to the refrigerator. http://i.cubeupload.com/3yXHsM.jpg   It's confusing, and it's counterintuitive that when you set the freezer to colder, the refrigerator gets *less* air, hence it's warmer. I don't know what changes when you set the refrigerator colder though.   This is all I think I know: 1. The compressor only runs at one speed. 2. Therefore the compressor is either on, or it's off. 3. There is a condenser fan on the bottom of the refrigerator. 4. That condenser fan also only has one speed. 5. There is a fan in the back of the freezer about mid way up. 6. That fan also has only one speed. 7. There is no fan in the refrigerator. 8. The refrigerator has no coils and has no fans. 9. The evaporator coils are only in the back of the freezer. 10. So the freezer is what cools the refrigerator. 11. That's why lowering the freezer temperature raises the refrig temperature (according to the service guy anyway). 12. The freezer dial apparently only controls the louvers of the air that is blow by the freezer fan from the freezer to the refrigerator. 13. I have no idea what the refrigerator dial does.

"Danny D." <dannydiamico@yahoo.com>: Aug 05 10:55PM -0300 On Fri, 8 Jul 2016 23:22:01 -0000 (UTC), Danny D. wrote:   > to the touch - but the coils are not.   > I think the solenoid at the compressor "bulb" is what is making the noise. > Any debugging advice?   To update this thread, I replaced the Kenmore with a Whirlpool long ago. http://i.cubeupload.com/3yXHsM.jpg   When I opened the back of the Whirlpool, I was surprised to find a Kenmore build sheet inside. Everything is almost exactly the same in the Whirlpool as it was in the Kenmore, even down to the capacitor and relay.   Even the shelves and wire racks were the same.   So Whirlpool *is* Kenmore and Kenmore is Whirlpool.   The current in the Whirlpool was lower than the Kenmore though, at about 1.2 amps when the compressor was running (it was about 3 amps, as I recall, with the older fridge). http://i.cubeupload.com/Wgo5LG.jpg   The new Whirlpool uses what appears to be a similar Embraco compressor which uses R134a but with a much lower LRA of 11.7 amps (as opposed to the 17 point something locked rotor amperage of the older Kenmore fridge). http://i.cubeupload.com/vn8fws.jpg   I've already had a service call, because the Whirlpool fridge is *supposed* to keep to between 37 and 40 degrees F with the freezer between 10 and 0 degrees F, but the thing is about 5 to 10 degrees F too warm when both settings are in the minimum position. http://i.cubeupload.com/3UkX69.jpg   Funny thing, when you put the *freezer* at the minimum setting, the *fridge* gets more air through the vent at top left (in this side-by-side refrigerator/freezer combination). That's because lowering the temperature in the freezer simply makes the vent open more of the fan air to the refrigerator. http://i.cubeupload.com/3yXHsM.jpg   It's confusing, and it's counterintuitive that when you set the freezer to colder, the refrigerator gets *less* air, hence it's warmer. I don't know what changes when you set the refrigerator colder though.   This is all I think I know: 1. The compressor only runs at one speed. 2. Therefore the compressor is either on, or it's off. 3. There is a condenser fan on the bottom of the refrigerator. 4. That condenser fan also only has one speed. 5. There is a fan in the back of the freezer about mid way up. 6. That fan also has only one speed. 7. There is no fan in the refrigerator. 8. The refrigerator has no coils and has no fans. 9. The evaporator coils are only in the back of the freezer. 10. So the freezer is what cools the refrigerator. 11. That's why lowering the freezer temperature raises the refrig temperature (according to the service guy anyway). 12. The freezer dial apparently only controls the louvers of the air that is blow by the freezer fan from the freezer to the refrigerator. 13. I have no idea what the refrigerator dial does.

Ed Pawlowski <esp@snet.net>: Aug 05 10:18PM -0400 On 8/5/2016 9:54 PM, Danny D. wrote:   > as it was in the Kenmore, even down to the capacitor and relay.   > Even the shelves and wire racks were the same.   > So Whirlpool *is* Kenmore and Kenmore is Whirlpool.   Don't bet money on that. Kenmore can also be Electrolux (formerly Frigidaire) LG, Samsung, and just about any other appliance manufacturer. http://www.appliance411.com/purchase/sears.shtml

Ed Pawlowski <esp@snet.net>: Aug 05 10:34PM -0400 On 8/5/2016 9:54 PM, Danny D. wrote:       > 10. So the freezer is what cools the refrigerator. > 11. That's why lowering the freezer temperature raises the refrig > temperature (according to the service guy anyway).   Short term I can see that, especially if just loaded up or in very ho weather. The temperatures should be able to balance where you want them, though it may take 24 hours or so.   The compressor has a limited capacity so if you extract more heat from the freezer, it will take less from the refrigerator section. One the freezer is at the desired temperature the fridge section should be able to catch up.   Many new units have dual systems. My Samsung keep each setting, freezer, refrigerator, center drawer at the exact set temperature.

Mike Jones <mikejones@gmail.com>: Aug 05 09:30PM -0500 On the inside of the refrig in the freezer compartment there will be a panel that can be removed. Once removed, you will see the evaporator coils. If they are caked with ice, that is the problem. They are supposed to be ice-free, where the accumulated frost is melted during the defrost cycle. If the coils are solid with ice, the system can no longer cool. There are three possible problems, listed here in order of likelihood:   1 Defrost thermostat has failed. This is a ten dollar part you can replace yourself easily.   2 Defrost heater has failed. This part is around $15-20 on the internet, plus shipping. It is easy to replace.   3 Defrost timer has failed. This is more complicated and depends a LOT on the design of the refrigerator.   You can learn all about this by going to google with the following search string :   Kenmore refrigerator doesn't cool.   There will be links there describing possible solutions, videos showing how to do the repair, and sources for buying the parts......   It ain't rocket surgery, but it does take a bit of self-education......

hellmelt@gmail.com: Aug 05 02:02PM -0700 My mower now works again! I had to change the board in the charging station.   /Ander

JW <none@dev.null>: Aug 05 02:48PM -0400 http://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/mj15025-transistors-wrong-polarity!!!!!!!!!!/   You can guess from where...

jurb6006@gmail.com: Aug 05 12:40PM -0700 On Friday, August 5, 2016 at 1:48:36 PM UTC-5, JW wrote: > http://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/mj15025-transistors-wrong-polarity!!!!!!!!!!/   > You can guess from where...   I buy things like that from Digikey.

"Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com>: Aug 05 06:12PM +0100 <jurb6006@gmail.com> wrote in message news:5da98753-3906-41a8-9433-42cad6a99d16@googlegroups.com... >>"Put a diode in series with the battery lead. "   > Can't do that because then it won't charge. Maybe with two, one in each > direction but then it'll probably never fully charge.   Its amazing how something as simple as using a diode as a gate confuses some people.

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