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stokesbr63@gmail.com: Oct 17 04:15PM -0700 Hey guys, been a while away from this group. Looking for help with this TV. It's a friend of mine that lives about 1.5 hours from me. TV won't start up - green power light shows for about 15 seconds then goes out. No blinking at all. I checked the horizontal output trans and it tested good. Haven't signal traced input to it yet, but suspect the flyback may be toast based on google searches. Anyhow, I need the part number off the flyback to see how much a replacement is. My buddy is older and can't see good enough to read anything off the transformer. I saw many transformers on line in the $15.00 - $20.00 range, so may just buy one and replace. Would any of you know what the part number is or reference a replacement? Again, TV 1.5 hours away, so I don't mind purchasing a flyback only to find out this isn't what is wrong. If there is a common fault with this set regarding power up issues, please share. Thanks for your help group.

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Oct 17 05:48PM -0700 > Hey guys, been a while away from this group. Looking for help with this TV. It's a friend of mine that lives about 1.5 hours from me. TV won't start up - green power light shows for about 15 seconds then goes out. No blinking at all. I checked the horizontal output trans and it tested good. Haven't signal traced input to it yet, but suspect the flyback may be toast based on google searches. Anyhow, I need the part number off the flyback to see how much a replacement is. My buddy is older and can't see good enough to read anything off the transformer. I saw many transformers on line in the $15..00 - $20.00 range, so may just buy one and replace. Would any of you know what the part number is or reference a replacement? Again, TV 1.5 hours away, so I don't mind purchasing a flyback only to find out this isn't what is wrong. If there is a common fault with this set regarding power up issues, please share. Thanks for your help group.   A suggestion is to borrow or buy a Bob Parker design LOPT/Flyback tester. Great tool if you work on tube monitors...(we sell those as a kit assembled by Alltronics).   Or you can cheat with an audio signal generator and a scope by setting the generator to 15,500ish cycles at 1V and see what the scope shows on other outputs from the flyback (you need to remove it from the TV first). Should show comparable although weaker signals on most lines if you get them hooked up correctly.   John :-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

jurb6006@gmail.com: Oct 17 08:35PM -0700 A scope would be the best thing. And pull the HV lead out of the flyback.   There are caps in the power supply that go bad and cause the B+ to get too high. And ESR meter should reveal which ones, I don't remember anymore.   Also, on the sweep board look for bad connections to a 1 nF cap across the horizontal output transistor BEFORE to try to fire it back up. If the connections are bad the HV goes up too fast and will crack the neck off one of the CRTs.   There is also a fusible on the signal board that nuisance blows and causes about that symptom, you'll have to look up on the net to find it. It has been many years since I worked on TVs. There was a time I could tell you right where this shit is but not no mo.   Anyway, the main cap, the 1 nF to watch is very close to the horizontal output. Just resolder that before even plugging the thing in again. The lytic in the power supply may well be bulging, that causes the 130 volts to go high.   If that is an ITC222 which I think likely it tries to start three times and if it can't get into regulation the it gives up. One possibility you don't want to hear about it that one of the tubes is already cracked and it is shutting down due to overcurrent.   Most of the flybacks for those have removable HV connectors. Take some side cutters and press in on the tabs exposed by the slots after removing the insulation boot. If the boot is not removable then you have to go to the other end.   Either way is a PITA because none of these connectors are made to be removed. You WILL need hot glue to put them back in the event all these components are good. However you can flip the sweep board up and check the connections without pulling the HV wire. You can also look for bulging caps without pulling that wire.   As far as the flyback, if Asti Magnetics is still around they probably got some stock left of these transformers. (also the HV splitters go bad, they might have them) Too many people have had trouble with eBay parts so that might not be the best idea.   Hope you don't have a cracked tube. If you do and can find one somewhere I can walk you through the alignment procedure. Actually it is pretty cool but you do need the original remote to do it. Physically screwing the tube in is easy but if you don't do the procedure right it takes like days, instead of the twenty minutes I used to do it in. there are also two types of tubes, one type has higher gain. When you mix them you might have to do a slight modification to that CRT board. But even if you do need one, they should not be that expensive anymore. It just gets labor intensive.

Bruce Esquibel <bje@ripco.com>: Oct 18 11:32AM > Again, TV 1.5 hours away, so I don't mind purchasing a flyback only to > find out this isn't what is wrong. If there is a common fault with this > set regarding power up issues, please share. Thanks for your help group.     Hmmm, why would a HD52W67, which seems to be a 52" 1080p HD LCD Television need to have a flyback transformer?   -bruce bje@ripco.com

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Oct 18 04:57AM -0700 On Tuesday, October 18, 2016 at 7:32:29 AM UTC-4, Bruce Esquibel wrote:   > Hmmm, why would a HD52W67, which seems to be a 52" 1080p HD LCD Television > need to have a flyback transformer?   There is that. This is a rear-projection Television.   What about the lamp(s)? If they are out, would it start?   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

ohger1s@gmail.com: Oct 18 04:57AM -0700 On Tuesday, October 18, 2016 at 7:32:29 AM UTC-4, Bruce Esquibel wrote: > need to have a flyback transformer?   > -bruce > bje@ripco.com   Why do you think it's an LCD PTV? I used to work on tons of RCAs and am pretty sure it's a CRT based ITC series chassis.   To the OP: why waste your time on this POS? You can find tons of running CRT based projectors on Craigs for the cost of schlepping them away. Older RCA PTK195s are a good choice (although not HD), or any Hitachi or Toshiba from the early 2Ks. Avoid any Sony projector of any type.

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Oct 18 05:04AM -0700 > What about the lamp(s)? If they are out, would it start?   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   Well... they do, in fact have flybacks. And there is quite the You-Tube guides to repairing them. Here is one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S6Wa8FvSz-s   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

stokesbr63@gmail.com: Oct 18 07:25AM -0700 > Either way is a PITA because none of these connectors are made to be removed. You WILL need hot glue to put them back in the event all these components are good. However you can flip the sweep board up and check the connections without pulling the HV wire. You can also look for bulging caps without pulling that wire.   > As far as the flyback, if Asti Magnetics is still around they probably got some stock left of these transformers. (also the HV splitters go bad, they might have them) Too many people have had trouble with eBay parts so that might not be the best idea.   > Hope you don't have a cracked tube. If you do and can find one somewhere I can walk you through the alignment procedure. Actually it is pretty cool but you do need the original remote to do it. Physically screwing the tube in is easy but if you don't do the procedure right it takes like days, instead of the twenty minutes I used to do it in. there are also two types of tubes, one type has higher gain. When you mix them you might have to do a slight modification to that CRT board. But even if you do need one, they should not be that expensive anymore. It just gets labor intensive.   Thanks for all the info. I haven't ruled out a cracked tube. Wanted to disconnect the flyback and see if set would remain powered up, but doesn't look like the wire disconnects from flyback. I will also check the cap you referred to by the HOT. Will also check solder joints on flyback since I read these could be suspect. Almost hope tube is cracked for excuse to trash set, but haven't come across a broken flat screen I can fix to give to my buddy.

Steve Kraus <screen@SPAMBLOCKfilmteknik.com>: Oct 17 09:25PM -0500 No problem here...just thinking about something.   Growing up, my folks had one of those silent mercury toggle wall switches in their bedroom. It was there when we moved in. The regular switches around the house made really loud snaps.   Nowadays, switches are nearly all virtually silent.   I presume the difference was all in the detent action not in the switch contacts themselves (though one might expect the actual contact material having improved).   So they probably could have made the switches silent if they'd wanted to, no?   Did people back in the day actually want switches to make loud snaps like maybe to assure them that the action had taken place?   And when someone did want a silent one, did they not know how to quiet the detent? A mercury switch just seems like a lot of trouble if there was an easier way.

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Oct 17 08:50PM -0700 On Monday, October 17, 2016 at 7:25:11 PM UTC-7, Steve Kraus wrote: > having improved).   > So they probably could have made the switches silent if they'd wanted to, > no?   The old snap-action switches were a quick-make/quick-break design with heavy springs to move the (brass?) contacts rapidly, to minimize sparking/spark-related metal erosion. You don't erode liquid mercury, it just evaporates a tiny bit and condenses later.     > And when someone did want a silent one, did they not know how to quiet the > detent? A mercury switch just seems like a lot of trouble if there was an > easier way.   I think the modern switches use a silver alloy button contact, that lasts a long time, and doesn't need to be scraped against other metal to keep it clean.   Personally, I like the mercury switches (am using a few in high-use locations).

isw <isw@witzend.com>: Oct 17 09:53PM -0700 In article <m4ydncmuEYedFZjFnZ2dnUU7-YHNnZ2d@earthlink.com>,   > So they probably could have made the switches silent if they'd wanted to, > no?   > Did people back in the day actually want switches to   In the beginning (of electrical service) a given household or area might be fed with DC. Without the regular zero-crossings of AC to extinguish arcs when the switch opens, the snap-action was to get the switch contacts far apart as quickly as possible.   Isaac

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Oct 17 09:21PM -0700 On Tuesday, October 11, 2016 at 2:27:39 PM UTC-7, WiFiAdapterHelp wrote:   > Had the ISP install a new box that has AC WiFi, dual band etc. > They gave me one AC adapter (USB) for my main PC. > It is fast WiFi now.   So, yank that adapter and use a real Ethernet wire instead. It's very fast, and doesn't receive or create interferening signals.   > Now I want to get AC to USB Adapters for other laptop PCs. > One is Windows XP the other is Windows 10. > I see some units do not support Windows 10.   The more WiFi devices, the more they interfere with each other. If you only use one PC at a time, you could just move the one adapter around.

"J.B. Wood" <arl_123234@hotmail.com>: Oct 17 02:34PM -0400 Wasn't "The Inverter Blues" done by James Taylor? Or was it Eric Clapton? (Sorry, I couldn't help myself.) Sincerely,     -- J. B. Wood e-mail: arl_123234@hotmail.com

avagadro7@gmail.com: Oct 17 12:12PM -0700 haven't found the worksheet...there's a second HD n a Seagate outboard.   The totals for stereo and lights with Ford running gear is abt 170...before deducting your suggested losses   running the stereo at night before adding the aux lighting discharged the batt after 3 hours   Ford's running gear at night uses abt 110 amps with Ford's radio. The stock system barely delivers if driving slow commutes at night during winter.   The 500w inverter charges a Dell laptop 6521 as GPS readout and one CTEK into one Optima...maybe a Samsung S5.   Currently the inverter is not accepting 2 CTEK's into one outlet.   The system using stereo and lights was working well at beginning with full charge then running steady at 65+ but no charging but not at 3 hours.   I had come to the conclusion the chargers into Optima were a basic problem.   The Optima are almost 10 years old. Today's observation is the O 's were not giving power to the 2 computers thru a 500W inverter...as of last night...when the CTEK's ran up to 80% full when connected. Charged from the alt not household AC as today.   I may find a 3rd inverter ....going around the current no 2 CTEK hookup with an inverter with a power output down range to what the CTEK pulls on normal charge.   Question is then is 500W overkill here or just cruisin' The system could be using half for inverter n half for output.   The ratio is a known ...until I ran into this dim lights problem in the rain outside Tonopah on ol' US 6 ....very dicey ...and for miles incurable no charge to full lights. The ratio assumption is lights charge at 40 but not so .....not quickly anyway.   I had lights on at low speed n idle. A great relief POW seeing bright light ahead after maybe 45 minutes.

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