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ohger1s@gmail.com: Oct 18 09:54AM -0700 Some did have a second anode wire that pulled out of the fly but later ones didn't. And even if it did, I had a couple that arced after they were reassembled, so the best plan is to remove it at the distribution block.   If you're lucky, you might just have that bad solder on the cap. The problem with that retrace cap is that if the customer continually tries to start the TV after that cap breaks loose, it will keep overvolting and running into the shutdown circuit. Even with the shutdown circuit, the voltage still overshoots and will eventually take out a CRT or yoke unless it shorts the HV output first shutting it down for good.   Most of the time, if the cap has bad solder, it will be burned a bit at the end. My experience is that most of these caps are still good anyway and resoldering them (and fixing the burned pc around it) is sufficient as long as the HV trans, crt(s), and yokes were not affected.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Oct 18 01:52PM -0700 If it is an ITC222 there is a fusible right near the flyback that provides voltage to the vertical IC, that can also cause shutdown. Actually I have found times when it was just the connection thereto. In fact sometime is a connection from the flyback. There is also another connection or resistor off the flyback that when bad will prevent the convergence subsystem from initializing.

ohger1s@gmail.com: Oct 18 07:16PM -0700 > If it is an ITC222 there is a fusible right near the flyback that provides voltage to the vertical IC, that can also cause shutdown. Actually I have found times when it was just the connection thereto. In fact sometime is a connection from the flyback. There is also another connection or resistor off the flyback that when bad will prevent the convergence subsystem from initializing.   Yep, remember those little red brick fuses well. And if nothing is amiss connection-wise, run a heat gun over the sweep board and see if it starts. There are a few electros that get lazy and I had a couple of those white opto couplers get thermally sensitive. Wow, talk about dredging up buried memories!

Bruce Esquibel <bje@ripco.com>: Oct 19 01:30PM > Why do you think it's an LCD PTV? I used to work on tons of RCAs and am > pretty sure it's a CRT based ITC series chassis.   Yeah, sorry about that, my google finger must of been bent to the left and didn't see the correct results. I thought the number was familar starting with the HD52 but you are right, it's one of the rptv series.   I do have to agree with someone else about what is the point, there probably are some listed on Craigs or Freeshopper that can be had for no money.   A couple years ago as a spare, I had a Sony 55" rptv, 16:9 picture but no atsc tuner, worked fine otherwise and after 3 weeks of trying to unload it for free, ended up using a sawsall on it to fit it in the garbage.   -bruce bje@ripco.com

avagadro7@gmail.com: Oct 18 05:33PM -0700 On Monday, October 17, 2016 at 2:34:49 PM UTC-4, J.B. Wood wrote: > Clapton? (Sorry, I couldn't help myself.) Sincerely,   > -- > J. B. Wood e-mail: arl_123234@hotmail.com   Clapton did the 'Universal Blues'

Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Oct 18 09:51PM > having improved).   > So they probably could have made the switches silent if they'd wanted to, > no?   yeah, they used mercury.   > Did people back in the day actually want switches to make loud snaps like > maybe to assure them that the action had taken place?   Old switches were made well and lasted forever. New switches at the box stores are complete shit and virtually fall apart just mounting to a box.   > And when someone did want a silent one, did they not know how to quiet the > detent? A mercury switch just seems like a lot of trouble if there was an > easier way.   My guess here is they didn't want to compromise quality and reliability standards of the tiem to make cheap, short lived crappy swithes like are OK now.   Even places like hospitals get the wrecking ball before they wear out these days.

guijarrosoy <algenta@gmail.com>: Oct 18 10:11AM -0700 El jueves, 13 de octubre de 2016, 14:06:30 (UTC-3), guijarrosoy escribió: > Hi, I am trying to take this apart, removed 9 screws ... Not sure how to open without denting the plastic.. Does anyone has a service manual?   > Thanks.   Thank you... Best regards.

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