- Reliable Slide Switches? - 3 Updates
- Starting problem with a Samsung Lappy - 2 Updates
- How best to dilute gasoline to use in a kitchen sink? - 7 Updates
- Troubleshooting RFI from switch-mode PS - 3 Updates
- Mark Bass , magic smoke, only 3 years old - 1 Update
- Headphone connector repair - 4 Updates
| Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Nov 23 05:15PM -0800 MOP CAP wrote: > This does not supprise me. Switches designed for switching a faire > amount of power do not work very well on low power or "dry" circuits. > Your LED's are essentally such a circuit. ** That is utterly wrong !!!!!!!! The circuit is still 12V and the load is several watts - so NOTHING like "dry switching". > You probably cannot find > a slide switch that is designed for "dry" circuits. ** Also completely wrong - most slide switches are just fine for the job. So called "dry switching" applies to signals like audio and video where the level is in the millivolt range and perfect contact must be made with no signal at the time of switching. The OP's hunch is likely close to the fact and he only needs to DO a post mortem to find out. .... Phil |
| whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Nov 23 09:44PM -0800 On Wednesday, November 23, 2016 at 8:03:45 AM UTC-8, Doug White wrote: >the switch on one became intermittent.... > Just recently, the switch on the 2nd light has started exhibiting the > exact same symptoms. If you can detach the power supply, try running the switch with a 120V incandescent lamp as its load (60W to 100W bulb). It's possible some small amount of oil or dirt is coating the switch, and 100 mA isn't enough current to burn it off. The polymers in a switch, or grease that makes it slide, can outgas or seep into the metal/metal contact area with distressing results. That switch is supposed to handle higher voltages and currents, and might be self-cleaning if given a chance. |
| Allodoxaphobia <knock_yourself_out@example.net>: Nov 24 02:31PM On Wed, 23 Nov 2016 16:03:42 GMT, Doug White wrote: > Are there other brands I should consider trying, or do people > think I just got ones from a bad batch? I've always felt that "Reliable Slide Switch" was an oxymoron. |
| N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Nov 24 11:13AM On 22/11/2016 21:23, Jon Elson wrote: > Yes, if it is bad caps, it will be much happier warm, and really hard to get > running when cold. > Jon summarised as crappy cappy in lappy |
| Allodoxaphobia <knock_yourself_out@example.net>: Nov 24 02:22PM On Thu, 24 Nov 2016 11:13:21 +0000, N_Cook wrote: >>>> ... lappy does not start. >>>> ... start button the lappy starts. > summarised as crappy cappy in lappy There really should be a teenage.electronics.repair |
| "ChairMan" <nospam@thanks.com>: Nov 20 11:45PM -0600 >> in most cases? > You are HOPELESS. > No fool like an old fool. No fool like ald fool thats so easily trolled |
| Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Nov 20 09:35PM -0800 On Sun, 20 Nov 2016 16:54:40 -0000 (UTC), Robert Bannon >This was written by a mad scientist who lives in your area: > 'Your Mother was a Chemist" > http://kitchenscience.sci-toys.com/ Yep. I think that I recognize him and the obnoxious African grey parrot. Lives in BC. See photo at: <http://kitchenscience.sci-toys.com/Introduction> -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
| Bill Martin <wwm@wwmartin.net>: Nov 23 12:48PM -0800 On 11/19/2016 03:27 PM, Oren wrote: >> either at least as flammable or at least as dangerous as gasoline >> itself - particularly not that will not also destroy it's solvency. > Model T Fords would run on moonshine added to leaded gas :-) That's called "E85" now... and it is available in califakeia. |
| Chris Jones <lugnut808@spam.yahoo.com>: Nov 21 07:04PM +1100 On 19/11/2016 11:05, Robert Bannon wrote: > What can I 'cut' the gasoline with that will mix with the gas and dilute it > (maybe 10:1 or even maybe 100:1)? > Any suggestions of common household chemicals that can dilute gasoline? Don't use gasoline. It still contains enough benzene to mess you up in the long term. Use biodiesel. It works, and is non-toxic, and cheap. I am talking about trans-esterified cooking oil. There are a lot of websites about how to make it, from KOH, methanol and filthy frier oil, but you can also buy it, usually about the same price as regular diesel. If made (and washed) properly, there is no methanol left in it at the end of the process. If you doubt its abilities to clean off gunk, here is one example: After a few months it stripped the paint off the inside of my jerry can (and I then had to filter all of the lumps and flakes out so I could use the fuel). It also took the greasy layer off my bathtub better than any household cleaner that I tried. I used it to remove many labels. You can then wash it off easily with ordinary detergent and hot water. It won't melt plastics in the short term (though it might soften epoxy and will swell rubber if you leave it on for weeks). It also smells nice (if you like fried food). |
| "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>: Nov 21 03:16AM -0500 Robert Bannon wrote: > On Sun, 20 Nov 2016 09:53:52 -0500, Michael A. Terrell wrote: >> A quart bottle of citrus based Goo Gone lasted me over a decade. > I'll bet you a jar of mayonnaise also lasts a while. It would last forever, since I don't eat that shit. > ever again. > If you knew how utterly *EFFECTIVE* gasoline is for dissolving most goop, > I'd bet you'd never use that goo gone stuff ever again. If you knew how utterly stupid that your trolling is, you would quit. > off on contact. > How long does it take for the googone stuff to melt all the goop off in most > cases? I use a cotton ball that has a few drops of the solvent on it. I rub it on the label to apply it, then I let it sit for a few minutes. Quite often, the label peels off with no residue. If there is residue, I simply wipe it away with the same cotton ball. I can even use it to remove price tags from paperback books, without staining the paper. I have removed thousands of inventory labels from SMD component reels, while leaving the OEM labels that they had covered, intact. It is also good to remove ink from most plastics, without any damage. -- Never piss off an Engineer! They don't get mad. They don't get even. They go for over unity! ;-) |
| Robert Bannon <rbannon@yahoo.spam.nowhere.invalid>: Nov 20 09:29PM On Sun, 20 Nov 2016 14:50:39 -0500, Dan Espen wrote: > Once you dilute the gasoline, it will still release fumes, > carry the exact same risk, and smell just as bad. Maybe. Maybe not. If I piss in your cup of water, it will stink like urine and look like urine and taste like urine (don't ask - I don't know). Now, if I dilute that piss 10:1 or 100:1, I'd wager none of the deleterious effects will occur. That's why they say the solution to pollution is dilution. All chemicals work that way. Why is gasoline any different than all other chemicals? |
| Robert Bannon <rbannon@yahoo.spam.nowhere.invalid>: Nov 24 02:57AM On Wed, 23 Nov 2016 12:48:07 -0800, Bill Martin wrote: > That's called "E85" now... and it is available in califakeia. That's what I'm currently using. |
| Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Nov 20 10:29PM -0800 >I have a Samlex 120VAC-13.5VDC at 35A switch mode power supply for my amateur radio equipment. Working great for last 7 years. Recently it's now producing "swooshing" noise in my radio receiver, especially on frequencies from 1.8-10MHz. Took it apart and noticed blown tops on the 3 output filter electrolytics, so I replaced those. But that did not help. >I could replace the 2 larger input filter electrolytics but they "look" OK and I wonder if maybe I should be thinking of also replacing the switcher MOSFET - I don't know where else the noise could be coming from? >Any ideas greatly appreciated. I can't tell from here where the noise is coming from. Usually, I put a small loop antenna on my spectrum analyzer and save it around the power supply while under load. That usually locates the general area. Much more interesting is why three capacitors would decide to bulge. Bulging is usually caused by excessive ripple current through the filter capacitors. High ripple could be coming from the diodes, or simply from undersized capacitors that can't hold a charge between switching cycles and therefore draw more current than normal. I suggest you put a scope on the output while under load and see if there's any ripple present. Compare the value with the manufactures specs. Also, use an IR thermometer to measure the case temperature of the capacitors. If they are getting warm, then there's ripple current going through them. -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
| lagagnon@gmail.com: Nov 23 05:12PM -0800 Phil: thanks for your comments. Yes, I am grasping at straws - I fully realize that, and as I somewhat expected, replacing the input caps did nothing to alleviate the noise. I have checked the AC connection to ground and that is all OK. And I have also attempted some time ago to use your trick of a small SW receiver to attempt to find the noise but cannot pin down any one component as the culprit as the noise seems to emanate from all over the output section. I am loath to start replacing any more caps until I really determine where it is coming from... |
| Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Nov 23 05:23PM -0800 > And I have also attempted some time ago to use your trick of a small > SW receiver to attempt to find the noise but cannot pin down any > one component as the culprit as the noise seems to emanate from all over the > output section. ** I did not intend that meaning - the small AM-SW radio should tell you if the EMI is being radiated by the AC lead entering the PSU plus cabling in the premises. With the covers on, the PSU itself ought not to be radiating any distance at all - at least with low power drain during receive mode. Does the PSU have an inlet filter ? http://www.westek.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/IEC-Inlet-Filter.jpeg This would be the first suspect. .... Phil |
| N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Nov 21 08:07AM On 17/11/2016 14:21, N_Cook wrote: > cooked and melted relay case , so the contact is permanently closed, > explains the switch on and off thumps/chirps , over a few weeks, that > did not used to be there. Worse air problem than that. The "baffle" is actually mu-metal plate as the tip of the input jack is about an inch from the speaker line. So another air flow mod for this, a full baffle directing air towards the Zobell, which should also rebalance air inlet to bias towards the main h/s inlet, a bit like the usual MB problem. So perhaps internal HF howl-round was the problem. So add capacitance in the Prea, to downgrade from 20KHz amp, no one has complained before doing this, a bass guitar amp anyway. The relay , now desoldered, was seriously buckled and burnt casing so the contacts were jammed on. As the click/chirp noise had been like that for a couple of months, 3 times a week use, difficult to believe the problem was full on ultrasonic instability driven into 10 W of resitors over the speaker line, all that time. There is a hole behind the front fascia, for a telltale LED to drive off the speaker line. What sort of dropper and cap and zener over the LED+ a rectifier , to come on at elevated amplitude 10KHz and not have the LED fail at full on ultrasonic "full-rail" oscillation |
| bitrex <bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net>: Nov 20 11:50PM -0500 On 11/20/2016 11:48 PM, isw wrote: > Now look around, spot the plug's back cover lying on the bench, curse > loudly, and start over, but this time slide the back cover on the cable > *first*! Yes. I am guilty of this. :-( |
| mjb@signal11.invalid (Mike): Nov 21 11:16AM In article <N2vYz.67146$lI2.43178@fx39.iad>, >> loudly, and start over, but this time slide the back cover on the cable >> *first*! >Yes. I am guilty of this. :-( Now you may progress to Stage 2 Error: Remembering to put the shroud on, then discovering you put it on backwards ... -- --------------------------------------+------------------------------------ Mike Brown: mjb[-at-]signal11.org.uk | http://www.signal11.org.uk |
| Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Nov 20 09:41PM -0800 On Sun, 20 Nov 2016 23:50:53 -0500, bitrex >> loudly, and start over, but this time slide the back cover on the cable >> *first*! >Yes. I am guilty of this. :-( Ditto, but my solution was not to start over. I cut a wide slit along the length of the plastic connector cover with a hack saw or Dremel tool cutoff disk. The slit was wide enough that I could slide the wires through the slit. I then screwed the plastic cover onto the plug, and filled the slit with hot melt glue. A little sanding it looked almost as good as if I had done it correctly in the first place. -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
| Sjouke Burry <burrynulnulfour@ppllaanneett.nnll>: Nov 21 07:15AM +0100 On 21.11.16 5:50, bitrex wrote: >> loudly, and start over, but this time slide the back cover on the cable >> *first*! > Yes. I am guilty of this. :-( It happens most often with 100pins amphenol connectors.(dont ask me how I know....) |
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