sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Google Groups

pamela <invalid@nospam.com>: Nov 24 07:41PM On 05:41 21 Nov 2016, Jeff Liebermann wrote:   > plastic cover onto the plug, and filled the slit with hot melt > glue. A little sanding it looked almost as good as if I had > done it correctly in the first place.   I'm impressed. In some other groups I've been asking about a one-piece stereo to mono headphone adapter. I want one with a built-in switch but even though it's not available I don't think I'll be doing that to fit one!   http://al.howardknight.net/msgid.cgi?ID=148001642200

pamela <invalid@nospam.com>: Nov 24 10:22PM On 22:03 24 Nov 2016, MJC wrote:     > If, as in link, it has a mono socket, what is the "mono/stereo" > switch going to do?   > Mike.   It would allow stereo headphones to play mono in both channels (rather than in just the left channel) from a mono socket.

pamela <invalid@nospam.com>: Nov 25 03:03PM On 09:02 25 Nov 2016, MJC wrote:     > You're going to need a stereo socket for that! (I had hoped you > would work that out for yourself with my prompting!)   > Mike.   One scenario I need to handle is when I want to play the output from the headphone socket of a mono dictation machine on both channels of stereo headphones.   At other times, the need is to pass through a stereo signal from a stereo socket to stereo headphones and then to switch over to hearing dual mono in the headphones.   It's all lovingly discussed in the thread in uk.d-i-y. :-) MID: <XnsA6C57F251CCBCD4AM2@81.171.92.183>

MJC <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Nov 24 10:03PM In article <XnsA6CAC84483B21D4AM2@81.171.92.183>, invalid@nospam.com says... > built-in switch but even though it's not available I don't think > I'll be doing that to fit one!   > http://al.howardknight.net/msgid.cgi?ID=148001642200   If, as in link, it has a mono socket, what is the "mono/stereo" switch going to do?   Mike.

bitrex <bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net>: Nov 24 07:23PM -0500 On 11/21/2016 06:16 AM, Mike wrote:   >> Yes. I am guilty of this. :-(   > Now you may progress to Stage 2 Error: Remembering to put the shroud on, > then discovering you put it on backwards ...   I committed a Stage 3 error today repairing one more: I put two shrouds on. And only noticed until I had soldered up the plug.   They're solid metal.   I give up.

MJC <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Nov 25 09:02AM In article <XnsA6CAE3AB396AED4AM2@81.171.118.178>, invalid@nospam.com says...   > > Mike.   > It would allow stereo headphones to play mono in both channels > (rather than in just the left channel) from a mono socket.   You're going to need a stereo socket for that! (I had hoped you would work that out for yourself with my prompting!)   Mike.

"Tmachcinsk@aol.com" <Tmachcinsk@aol.com>: Nov 24 06:42PM -0800 > Looking for how to get into the menu for fine adjustment of convergence on a rca P60908. Thank Ted   Also as far as experience I am a arcade game tech I have done convergence and tube swaps on many monitors and know enough to mark the rings before I start. I do not have much experience with projections and the electronic adjustment. I would start by making a single adjustment before going crazy. I don't know what the adjustment screen looks like at all. If there are values on screen I would wright them down before changing anything. I am not looking to screw anything up that's why I am here getting advice from you guys. Thanks Ted

Doug White <gwhite@alum.mit.edu>: Nov 24 04:49PM Allodoxaphobia <knock_yourself_out@example.net> wrote in   >> Are there other brands I should consider trying, or do people >> think I just got ones from a bad batch?   > I've always felt that "Reliable Slide Switch" was an oxymoron.   Perhaps, but I'd be surprised if I have more than a few hundred cycles on these things. That's rediculous.   Doug White

Doug White <gwhite@alum.mit.edu>: Nov 24 04:56PM whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com> wrote in > area with distressing results. That switch is supposed to handle > higher voltages and currents, and might be self-cleaning if given a > chance.   I've tried cycling them to wipe off any thin flim or corrosion. It feels more like a mechnical problem than anything else. If I flip it & it doesn't light, I can often get it working by backing up the switch just a hair & wiggling it. Getting it working at one point during the day is no guarantee that it will work the next tiem I try it an hour later.   The particular switch (C&K S102031SS03Q) has a plastic body, which surprised me. I may try at least seeing if I can find an old fashioned one with a metal housing.   I'd love to find one with threaded holes in the mounting ears. That would be a lot easier to work with.   Doug White

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Nov 24 11:53AM -0800 On Thursday, November 24, 2016 at 8:56:16 AM UTC-8, Doug White wrote: > > incandescent lamp as its load (60W to 100W bulb).     > I've tried cycling them to wipe off any thin flim or corrosion. It > feels more like a mechnical problem than anything else.   It IS a mechanical problem, if the film on the metal is too tenacious to be dislodged by sliding. You haven't any control over the contact pressure, but you CAN increase the electrical stress, and carbonize the insulator as you run the switch over it (creating a hot spark).

You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.