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jurb6006@gmail.com: Nov 25 11:55AM -0800 > On Monday, November 14, 2016 at 10:38:24 AM UTC-5, Tmach...@aol.com wrote: > > Looking for how to get into the menu for fine adjustment of convergence on a rca P60908. Thank Ted   > Also as far as experience I am a arcade game tech I have done convergence and tube swaps on many monitors and know enough to mark the rings before I start. I do not have much experience with projections and the electronic adjustment. I would start by making a single adjustment before going crazy. I don't know what the adjustment screen looks like at all. If there are values on screen I would wright them down before changing anything. I am not looking to screw anything up that's why I am here getting advice from you guys. Thanks Ted   You still haven't described the error or indicated why there is an error. This is paramount. The convergence amps are like transconductance amps and their gain is set by precision resistors. Actually not even precision, but they are when you go to replace them.   There are no values to write down in the convergence. The lines move IF the amps are working. If they are not working the values change but you don't see it. That means that later, unless you literally took a picture of the error you could fix the amp and not know it is fixed. I shit to not.   On the NAP sets they gave the customer the access to do multipoint convergence and that can play hell on doing the actual troubleshooting. Luckily the included a "factory reset". There is no such thing on the PCA. Even if you unplug it the data are changed. Some sets have values and have normal old style controls but they're digital, like horizontal linearity, vertical bow and all that, and many of them do have a value (number) associated with each parameter. No so with the RCA, it is an advanced point to point system.   You shouldn't mark the rings, you should know how to set the rings. I wish you would describe the error and what all was done. If you changed the flyback you NEED not to set anything in the convergence because when the vertical lines converge at the sides you have set the width correctly. That is a totally different menu.   Fukit, since you are diligent I guess I will give you enough rope to hang yourself, to the best of my recollection. Remember you need the ORIGINAL remote. If you don't have that you are screwed anyway.   Lessee, how was that, on the set, not remote, hold down the menu button and hit power and then vol+. Release. With the vol+ advance the number on the right to 80 and then hit the ch+. This will bring up the test pattern. You will notice in the middle one color missing for the crosshairs, that is the adjustment point. Green is always the reference and is not generally set. If the crosshairs are magenta, you are adjusting red, if cyan you are adjusting blue.   On the remote the numbers 2,4,6,8 move the adjustment point, the arrow keys by the menu down below do the actual adjustment. And as I said before, it is saved IMMEDIATELY. If any point on the screen will not adjust STOP RIGHT THERE. Just get out the scope and troubleshoot. Don't even try to get it back. Your odds of that are about the same as Donald Trump winning the gold medal in Women's gymnastics.   If you have changed the flyback to an aftermarket and the vertical lines on the sides do not converge you need the main service menu, which is the same process but you go to V76 instead of V80. Now THAT you can do without the remote, plus there are values. You can adjust each one and return them to their original values until you find horizontal width. You will not have the internal test pattern though but you can use an external generator or a few other things. You can use preview guide from the cable box with the color turned all the way down for example. If you are in the V76 menu, DO NOT go up into the hundreds, those are tuner alignment and if you screw that up there is almost no way back. I can do it but I was one of the best on my day. When they offer you $30 an hour and to drive 96 miles a day to pick you up and drop you off every day that says something. So don't think something like that is easy. It is not that hard if you have what they call a "TAG" generator, but doing without is not all that easy. I could also align the recording circuits in a VCR without fancy equipment, the other tech saw how I did it and said "This guy is a genius". With a scope and a meter I can align almost anything except I can't figure out a way to set the separation on FM stereo without a real generator. But if I have to now all I need it one of those modulators they have so you can play your portable CD or MP3 player in a car that has no jacks for it.   So anyway, you have your rope. You know how to make the noose. I still highly recommend you describe the convergence error in detail. You could have a coolant leak which will destroy what may well be one of the best units RCA ever made. It leaks on the boards and after months becomes conductive and corrosive and the unit usually is unrepairable at any price.   I got the big bucks because I know what the fuck I am doing. I remember one Mitsubishi came in with bad convergence and I did not really investigate enough. It wasn't that bad so I tried adjusting it and it would not. STOP I said to myself. Come to find out it was a broken mirror !   Which is another thing, on a sixty inch the mirror is usually retractable for moving. Is it in it's proper running position ? Check into the mounting of that before getting into the software.   You are not just dealing with electronics here, it is also optical. It is amazing how advanced they got before LCD technology blew it all off. If you've ever had a CRT out you see this ultraconcave glass in front of it which makes the coolant into a lens. It allows the lens to gather much more light from the CRT. The CRT puts out omnidirectionally, this concentrates it and improves efficiency quite a bit.   Mostly useless knowledge now.   So there's your rope. Don't come back whining that you hung yourself, you have been warned.

"Tmachcinsk@aol.com" <Tmachcinsk@aol.com>: Nov 26 07:06AM -0800 Thank you for the info. I do know how to adjust the convergence rings not an expert but fairly good at it. It is always nice to have a place to go back to if things go wrong. As I stated in the other post The convergence is off very slightly in the very bottom of the screen. I also stated I replaced the power supply for the convergence board, I may have alse replaced the flyback at one point don't recall for sure at this point. I have no desire to screw up my very nice tv that is why I have come here to talk to the right people first before I do anything. Even if I end up not making the adjustments I still love getting the knowledge. Thanks again Ted

Jeff Layman <JMLayman@invalid.invalid>: Nov 26 08:04AM On 23/11/16 00:50, Phil Allison wrote:   > just serviced some early 60s UK made valve audio that used fully sealed, ganged pots for volume, balance, bass & treble.   > Not a sign of noise in any of them.   > .... Phil   What make? Can reliability be assumed for any make?   Back in 1972 I bought a Ferrograph 307Mkii amp. Very good machine for the time, but after 18 months I had to replace the volume control (concentric pots) as it had become noisy on rotation. A few years later in 1976 I bought a really cheap Hong Kong made LW/MW/VHF transistor radio. Within a year the wave-change switch was very unreliable despite not being used much. But, the on/off-volume control has been perfect for over 40 years. I reckon I've turned that radio on/off, and rotated that pot, over 15000 times during that period.   --   Jeff

Adrian Caspersz <email@here.invalid>: Nov 26 12:17PM On 26/11/16 08:04, Jeff Layman wrote: > not being used much. But, the on/off-volume control has been perfect for > over 40 years. I reckon I've turned that radio on/off, and rotated that > pot, over 15000 times during that period.   Some controls can be made noisy by a leak of DC from somewhere. Bad Caps?   -- Adrian C

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Nov 26 05:24AM -0800 Jeff Layman wrote:     > What make? Can reliability be assumed for any make?   ** Made in the UK, in the early 60s, installed in a Rogers Cadet 2 stereo pre-amp.   Exceptional longevity in service is the result of very good design, not some half baked notion called "reliability".       .... Phil

pamela <invalid@nospam.com>: Nov 26 12:31PM On 17:45 25 Nov 2016, MJC wrote:     > Sorry, I don't feel loving enough to read that. If you don't > understand the need for a stereo socket, I give up!   > Mike.   I couldn't recommend anyone reads through all that thread but you ask for some further info which was covered in detail there.   My dictation machine has on't a mono headphone socket so I don't have any choice about it.

Splork <splork@splork.net>: Nov 25 09:24PM -0500 >specs (but had to measure them to find out real specs). >And I still find them good bargain given price and real >performance.   Ebay is unconcerned   On Fakes, I once bought 4 4 packs of NiZn rechargeable AA Batteries.   Packaging looked factory legit, blister and cardboard. The batteries were all bad, one or 2 holding a poor charge briefly. Close inspection revealed the negative terminals were all scratched up. They were bad used batteries repackaged.   Got a refund but ebay did nothing else. I see boatloads of AAA versions on ebay right now.

MJC <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Nov 25 05:45PM In article <XnsA6CB99341A0FBD4AM2@81.171.92.183>, invalid@nospam.com says... > hearing dual mono in the headphones.   > It's all lovingly discussed in the thread in uk.d-i-y. :-) > MID: <XnsA6C57F251CCBCD4AM2@81.171.92.183>   Sorry, I don't feel loving enough to read that. If you don't understand the need for a stereo socket, I give up!   Mike.

ohger1s@gmail.com: Nov 25 10:25AM -0800 Getting off topic but I've changed a bunch of high pin count ICs (through the hole type) and got most of pins soldered when discovering that one pin decided to stay out of it's hole..

legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Nov 25 12:31PM -0500 >2) I run the PS in a cool room, and also as a result of point 1 above the cooling fan has never come one (but has been tested to work). In other words the PS runs very cool >3) nothing has changed for 7 years until recently so this is definitely recent noise coming from the PS as I can switch to a deep cycle battery instantly and the RX noise disappears.   >I have ordered the two 1000uF, 200V input caps and should replace them in about 3 days and will let you all know the results.   If the output inductor of the filter fails, the unit may continue to run with excessive ripple current in the output filter and excessive switching noise, due to increased peak currents.   The filter caps will eventually fail too, bulging or otherwise, due to increasing ESR.   You would see abnormal output ripple voltage, even with good caps, if the output choke has failed.   I've seen this twice in KW rated single-output supplies, but below 12V output in both cases. Due to age, it meant rewinding the choke, rather than replacing it (and replacing previously overstressed caps...).   Output ripple was evident (>10x normal) even though there was a two stage filter.   RL

legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Nov 25 12:19PM -0500 On Fri, 18 Nov 2016 19:09:35 -0800 (PST), Ken Layton   >> Lighter fluid, NAPHTHA!   >> Did you try peanut butter on the labels?   >I use common cigarette lighter fluid available everywhere in the tobacco section.   Second that.   RL

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