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Raymond Spruance III <spruancerayIII@example.com>: Nov 27 04:01PM Do you know anything about celestial navigation?   What's important in the software? http://opencpn.org/ocpn/node/143   Other than sighting Polaris' angle from the horizon, and noting that the sun rises in the east and sets in the west, I have never had a need for celestial navigation software on Android.   However, I want to test out celestial navigation, on a lark mostly, but more to learn how it's done (in case I ever need it in an emergency) and to show a high school math teacher how its done so she can use it to make trig more interesting to her students.   Looking up celestial navigation software, I find plenty of payware: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vikrant https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.navimatics.app.celnav https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.polyglotz.starstruck http://appcrawlr.com/android/observation-of-celestial-body etc.   But it's standard policy to never buy the payware until you've exhausted the freeware, if for no other reason than you *know* exactly what you need the payware to do if/when the freeware fails. (99% of the time or more, the freeware does what you need, at least on Android.)   Looking up the freeware celestial navigation software, I find: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.AstroNavigation https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.Sightreduction https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.checkmyrest.celestialnavigator   All I ask in this thread are the basic questions anyone new to celestial navigation would ask: a. What freeware is the best one to try out first? b. What are the minimum required features of that freeware

Allodoxaphobia <knock_yourself_out@example.net>: Nov 27 04:30PM On Sun, 27 Nov 2016 16:01:33 +0000 (UTC), Raymond Spruance III wrote: > Do you know anything about celestial navigation?   <--- big snip -->   > All I ask in this thread are the basic questions anyone new to > celestial > navigation would ask:   And you _just had_ to cross-post this to sci.electronics.repair ... why?

Adrian Caspersz <email@here.invalid>: Nov 27 10:18AM On 26/11/16 12:31, pamela wrote:   > My dictation machine has on't a mono headphone socket so I don't > have any choice about it.   It would probably be easy to break into the unit and put in a small stereo/mono toggle switch. Better than doing that after amplification.   -- Adrian C

"Ron D." <Ron.Dozier@gmail.com>: Nov 26 10:04AM -0800 You can get slide switches with threaded holes. This is typically used in a ceiling fan.

Doug White <gwhite@alum.mit.edu>: Nov 27 03:22AM "Ron D." <Ron.Dozier@gmail.com> wrote in   > You can get slide switches with threaded holes. This is typically > used in a ceiling fan.   I haven't found any with threads with the required 1.125" hole spacing.   I have found both a Switchcraft and a CW switch that use the old style folded metal & phenolic PCB construction, but no threaded holes. Both are rated for 3A (vs 6A for the plastic C&K), which should still be OK, even for the original 20W 12V AC halogen bulb. With the LED replacement bulb, it should be loafing.   Both the Switchcraft and the CW cost about half what the C&K do. They are all so cheap that I will probably just order a couple of each. I will try the C&K again on the theory that I may have gotten ones from a bad batch. I'll also take the flaky one apart & see if I can figure out what the failure mechanism is. if one of the replacements dies prematurely, I will install a Switchcraft.   I'll report back when I have the replacements in hand & do an autopsy on the bad one.   Doug White

Jon Elson <elson@pico-systems.com>: Nov 26 11:49PM -0600 Allodoxaphobia wrote:     >> Are there other brands I should consider trying, or do people >> think I just got ones from a bad batch?   > I've always felt that "Reliable Slide Switch" was an oxymoron. Yes, I'm with you. I have seen some very special switches that had a slider or rocker that operated a microswitch with a cam-like mechanism. These were probably for aerospace reliability level applications, and prices accordingly.   The typical slide switches have really mediocre contacts with thin plating, and once the springy contact fingers had worn down, you'd get poor contact, base metal on base metal.   Jon

Jeff Layman <JMLayman@invalid.invalid>: Nov 27 08:39AM On 27/11/16 03:22, Doug White wrote:   >> You can get slide switches with threaded holes. This is typically >> used in a ceiling fan.   > I haven't found any with threads with the required 1.125" hole spacing.   Maybe some ideas to consider if all else fails: 1. Is there enough thickness to cut a thread in the mounting hole with a fine-pitch screw tap? The data sheet shows it to be 0.052" (1.32mm). 2. Consider glueing a nut onto the switch with epoxy, although from the data sheet there is very little space between the hole and the body of the switch for a nut. 3. If you can get to the power lead to the lamp, consider fitting a separate, more reliable switch in the lead, and just leave the slide switch in the "on" position (or even solder a short circuit across it).   --   Jeff

comoxvalleylawncare@gmail.com: Nov 26 08:10PM -0800 Nothing worst than bad sex read about it sheesh.   goo.gl/7pIztu

ohger1s@gmail.com: Nov 26 12:18PM -0800 > Thank you for the info. I do know how to adjust the convergence rings not an expert but fairly good at it.   There is *NO* need to touch those rings unless a CRT or yoke was replaced. Doing so will most likely throw off the DC idle current enough to cause the convergence outputs to run hot.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Nov 26 02:55PM -0800 > On Saturday, November 26, 2016 at 10:06:12 AM UTC-5, Tmach...@aol.com wrote: > > Thank you for the info. I do know how to adjust the convergence rings not an expert but fairly good at it.   > There is *NO* need to touch those rings unless a CRT or yoke was replaced. Doing so will most likely throw off the DC idle current enough to cause the convergence outputs to run hot.   There's another thing people do not know. In a RPTV you do NOT set the rings (with the convergence unpowered) to converge in the middle. Depending on which way the CRTs are arranged you set green in the center and then red or blue to converge at 1/3 of the screen over from the left and the other color, red or blue to converge at 1/3 from the right.   See there's something I didn't mention, did not occur to me. That's one of the reasons we don't like divulging the information, you practically have to write a book. But believe it or not, that mis-centering takes a load off the convergence outputs. That is partly because they have put ALL the geometry on the convergence. It is also due to the inherent horizontal linearity correction need for the red and blue. The slight offset needed in the middle does not outweigh the fact that this scheme allows them to use a slightly lower voltage to the convergence outputs which lessens their dissipation.   Note that I was THE FUCKING EXPERT in this state on these things. Seriously. I can just about design one of these things but now that is a bunch of useless knowledge. My boss introduced me to someone as "The best tech in northeast Ohio" and I said "Northeast ?". He apologized later. But at the time it was my specialty and when it was where the money is at I made them a fortune. They got sick of the winters and moved to Florida. Next job the owner had a heart attack. I have never been fired from a good job. Shitty jobs yes, but not good ones.

"Tmachcinsk@aol.com" <Tmachcinsk@aol.com>: Nov 26 04:25PM -0800 Thanks again for the info. I was actually referring to a regular pic tube not for projection. Thanks again. Ted

"G. Paul Ziemba" <unp@ziemba.us>: Nov 26 08:58PM For benefit of the archives...   I just finished repairing a Panasonic KX-TPA50 handset (it's a cordless handset for their KX-TGP500/TGP550 voip base station). Symptoms were no sound from the earpiece (although sound was OK in speakerphone mode).   Resistance measured across the earpiece terminals on the circuit board was infinite. The number on the existing part (sorry, I didn't write it down) didn't lead anywhere.   The earpiece speaker is round with red/black wire leads attaching to the circuit board. Diameter is roughly 15mm. Thickness is about 4mm.   Digikey carries several of these. I got the Soberton SP-1304 (P/N 433-1095-ND), a 32-ohm speaker 13mm in diameter and 4.2mm thick. Leads were only about 3cm long, so I retained the existing leads in the handset and spliced the new leads in. There was a small adhesive foam pad on the back of the original speaker which I carefully peeled off and transferred to the back of the new speaker. -- G. Paul Ziemba FreeBSD unix: 12:56PM up 97 days, 16:35, 8 users, load averages: 1.23, 1.16, 1.13

"Ron D." <Ron.Dozier@gmail.com>: Nov 26 10:09AM -0800 un-hesive   http://un-hesive.com

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